Travel The Himalayas

27/10/2024

The Suru Valley

There lies in Ladakh a Valley which till sometime back was hardly known by many and a Valley which to me has always been one of the most beautiful parts of Ladakh. A Frontier in Himalayan geography where the Trans Himalayan splendour of Ladakh meets the divine beauty of the exalted Vale of Kashmir. The Valley I'm talking about is the Suru Valley which lies to the East of Kargil Town and to the West of the Valley of Zanskar. It stretches all the way from almost Kargil Town to Parkachik on the Road to Pensi La and further to Zanskar. And now finally it has got some recognition as National Geographic has named the Suru Valley as one of the Destinations to visit in 2025.

One of the factors that make this Valley interesting is that its bounded on one side by the Main Great Himalayan Range and on the other side by the Zanskar Range which is the first Range as we enter the Trans Himalayan Region. As a result the Peaks on both sides are much more Vertical and Craggy and Snow clad then in other parts of Ladakh. The usual approach is via Kargil when you get off the main Highway and take a right turn along the Suru River if you are coming from the Kashmir side towards Leh. There is also a more adventurous Road which connects Suru Valley directly with Drass via the Umba La Pass. and the ofcourse you can from Lahaul side by taking the Shinku La to Zanskar and then via Pensi La into the Suru Valley. And nowadays the fastest way is from Srinagar and you can get to Suru is around 5 Hours.

Suru Valley itself is endowed with beauty which is hard to explain except with some Photographs. The Road runs alongside the Suru Valley in parts and through small Villages which dot this Valley. One of the grandest sights in all of the Western Himalayas has to be that of the mighty Nun Kun Peaks which were the highest Peaks in the main Himalayan Range in the erstwhile state of Jammu and Kashmir at over 7000 meters. The whole Valley infact has quite a verdant look in the Summers as the elevation in the Valley ranges between 9000 ft to 10000 ft which is on the lower side by Ladakh standards. Leh for example is 11500 feet.

In recent years Suru Valley has also become a destination for Rock Climbers and Trekkers and opportunities for both these Adventure activities are almost endless in the Suru Valley. Suru Valley was a part of the old Trade which connected Suru with Warwan Valley in Kishtwar, with Kashmir, with Zanskar as well as other parts of Ladakh to the North of Suru. The Classical Suru Warwan Trek is based on one such Trade Route across the Bhot Kol Pass / Lonvilad Gali and this Trek which takes one across the Great Himalayan Range is one of the most stunning Treks on the Planet and this Trek is once again featured by a number Companies.

We are also starting a Classical Tour for people who cant / dont want to Trek but still want to visit these Regions and we combine a Trip to Suru Valley with a Trip to the equally stunning Warwan Valley in Kishtwar in the Jammu Division while cutting across the Kashmir Valley. A Unique way to experience Kashmir, Ladakh and Jammu. The Trip is called the Nun Kun Escapade as its visible both while getting into the Warwan Valley as well as in the Suru Valley.

11/08/2024

First Video of driving from Lokut Bangus to Bod Bangus in the beautiful Bangus Valley in North Kashmir

Driving from the Drangyari side to the Reshwari side of Bangus. First time ever Video of driving through the beautiful Meadow of Bangus in Kashmir as we driv...

19/07/2024

Going up the Pir Ki Gali in May 2024. The Pir Ki Gali is a Pass on what was the historical Mughal Road and connected Kashmir with Poonch in the Jammu Division. It is an alternate Route which connects Srinagar with Jammu and this can be used instead of the usual National Highway

06/07/2024

Our Highlight Drive of the Year

Presenting the LOC Unravel 2024.

A one of its kind Driving Expedition that takes you to areas right on the LoC in Kashmir. The Map below shows the Routes we will be covering as well the LOC in Red and you can see we pretty much go all the way to the LOC at vrious locations.

We have limited Slots available. You can bring your own Vehicle (4x4 is Mandatory) or we can Arrange a Vehicle for you or if you want to come along just as a Passenger we have that option as well.

For more Details you can Whats App Message me on 98712 92288.

19/06/2024

Glimpses from our Epic LOC Unravel 2023 last year which culminated with a bang on top of the Kaobal Gali.

An Epic adventure around Kashmir touching all the main areas along the LoC, the first time such an Adventure carried out with most of the Participants coming from outside Kashmir.

As we prepare the Routes for the upcoming LOC Unravel 2024 we will add new Routes and try getting Permissions for areas so far Off Limits.

Get in touch with us on 98712 92288 in case you want more Details.

29/05/2024

Our new intiative to promote Border Tourism in Kashmir.
Introducing Day Trips and Overnight Trips to the areas opened for Tourists along the LoC. We arrange the Transport, the Permits and even Overnight Stay at these places.

These places include

Teetwal / Tithwal & Tangdhar in the Karnah Valley
Keran
Machil
Gurez of couse
Uri / Kaman Post

All these Trips are Ex Srinagar and for more infor get in touch with 98712 92288

27/05/2024

A Drive to the beautiful Village of Keran located in the Kishanganga Valley right on the Line of Control. The Kishangnag is called the Neelam by thepeople on the other side.

The good news is that now Homestays are available in Keran and you no longer have to make a Day Trip and instead you can actually spend a Night in this beautiful Village..

Contact us for more Details

14/04/2024

Of all the Tourism Guest Houses in Kashmir the one at Reshawari is surely one of the best.

How about spending a few Nights at this fabulous location ?

Be a part of our Gurez Bangus Keran Tour and discover hidden Gems like this this one.

For details please Message on Whats App no 98712 92288

10/04/2024

Just a Month to go for our High Pass Challenge JK Edition 2024.

The THPC JK editions takes you across almost the whole length and breadth of the UT of Jammu and Kashmir. We start off from Basohli in the Kathua District and make our way into the heart of the Pir Panjals and come to Bhaderwah in the Doda District after crossing the remote Chattargala Pass.

From Bhaderwah we move along the Chenab River to the Kishtwar district and from the town of Kishtwar we move towards the Sinthan Pass in the Pir Panjals which gets us into Kashmir.

We then explore the Passes around Kashmir like the Margan Pass and Razdan Pass in the Great Himalayan Range and the Sadhna Pass, the Z Gali and the Pharkiyan Gali in the Shamsbari Range.

And end after crossing over Pir Panjals via the Pir Ki Gali on the old Mughal Road and ending in Jammu.

This Drive is not just an Overlanding Expedition but a lesson the Geography of the Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir. Which takes you along lesser know Routes in the UT with beauty than cannot be justified in words.

The Itinerary

May 10 : Arrival in Basohli. Basohli is located around in Jammu and Kashmir around 60 kms from Pathankot in the Kathua District. Located on the banks of the Ranjit Sagar Dam. Night stay at the Lake View Resort

May 11 : We have an early Morning start and take the Road to Bani. And then to the beautiful meadows of Sarthal. From Sarthal we climb up to the beautiful Chattargala Pass and descend into scenic Bhaderwah in the Doda District. Night Stay at Bhderwah Resort

May 12 : We do a trip to Padri Pass which connects Bhaderwah with Chamba and then we head towards Kistwar along the Chenab. From Kishtwar we climb up the Sinthan Pass and descend into the Kashmir Valley. Stay at Daksum Hotel.

May 13 : We start the drive up the thrilling Margan Pass which connects Kashmir with the magical Warwan Valley. Return to Srinagar later in the day. Stay at the Khanda Kothi / Saffron Hotel

May 14 : From Srinagar we drive upto the Wular Lake and then we climb up the Razdan Pass which was once a part of the Route which connected Kashmir with Gurez and beyond to Gilgit. From Razdan Pass we head to Chandigam in the Lolab Valley in Kupwara. Night Stay at Chandigam TRC Guest House

May 15 : Today we will do the Shamsbari Passes of Zamindar/ Z Gali which connects to Machil and the the Pharkiyan Gali which connects to Kerna. Return to Chandigam in the Afternoon. Night Stay at Chandigam TRC Guest House

May 16 : We head to the Sadhna Pass today again in the Shamsbari Range and which further connects to the Karnah Valley and Tithwal. Return to Srinagar in the Afternoon. Night Stay at the Khanda Kothi

May 17 : The last day we head to the old Mughal Road and cross the historic Peer Ki Gali and then the adjoining the Dera Ki Gali and head through the Rajouri District and finally arrive at Jammu. Night Stay at the Hari Niwas Palace.

May 18 : Everyone heads back Home.

We have Two Slots left for anyone who is interested. Please get in touch with me on Whats App no 98712 92288 in case you are. Thanks

23/03/2024

The Thanedaar of Balsan

There was a princely state in the Shimla Hills called Balsan State. A small state comprising of 26 Villages and around 60 sq km and used to be a subsidary to the Raja of Sirmaur. The main town (Capital if you may) is a place called Ghodna. It was located on the left bank of the Giri River in an area which borders Sirmour on one side and Kotkhai Jubbal on the other and Theog on another side. After the expulsion of the Gurkhas, the Thakurai of Balsan was given to Thakur Jogjraj Singh by a Sanad bestowed by the British. For sheltering and protecting many Englishmen during the First War of Independence, the title of Rana was bestowed upon the Thakur of Balsan.

Balsan is situated in a belt that some people refer to as the Mahasu Kotkhai Jubbal belt and this region has always been steeped in mysticism with the Gods, the Devtas and the Demons being a central part of life. And to this day, as this is a region bereft of any tourists, outsiders though received warmly are usually kept away from things held sacred. I dont really have the words to explain the attitude to outsiders here ie outsiders as in non Pahadi. This is today. But back in the Rana days outsiders were not really welcomed as the Pahadis had enough trouble coming up down from the Plains.

The Rana Sahib of Balsan had a Thanedaar. As in the Law Enforcer. As in the local tough guy who ensured that the edicts issued by the Rana were followed to the T. As well as the name suggests, policing the Kingdom. The Sanad granted by the British meant that the Rana was pretty much in control of everything except giving a death sentence which could only be given by the approval of the British resident for the Shimla Hill states. The Thanedaar had quite a reputation and there was a local saying that if the Thanedaar bit a man he would draw blood. What it really implies I could never get my head around. There were other details on what the Thanedaar did which I have conveniently left out because I simply feel that our modern views on morality and wrong / right cant be used to judge a man who lived in another time, another era. He was a good man. To his Ranaji.

For the all the orthodoxy of the region and the strong belief in the Hindu devtas the Thanedaar happened to be a Muslim. And he was probably more loyal to the Ranaji than Ranaji himself. The state treasury of Balsan State which had unknown quantities of wealth in the form of Gold/ Precious metals/ Precious stones was kept in cave and it was said to be guarded by Serpents. Serpents of a very venoumous variety and no man could go in without getting bitten and eventually dying. They were the Guardians of the Royal treasure. Many had gone in and only met a painful death which the toxins of the Serpents caused. No one could get anywhere near the Royal treasure as long as the Serpents were there.

No one except one guy. The Thanedaar. Due to some unexplained phenomenon the Thanedaar was the only one that the Serpents would let in and do whatever that he wanted to do. He could take in anything and he could take out anything without coming to any harm. It was as if the Serpents could see something and trusted this man. Or maybe even they had heard of the Thanedaar and were in awe of his reputation. Whatever the reason, the Thanedaar was the only one who could go in and transact the business of the Treasury, like getting the Gold out and putting Gold in. And the Ranaji had complete utmost faith in him as he could see it decreed by the Gods themselves as interpreted from the fact that the Serpents did not harm him.

Ofcourse there were other people around the Ranaji who could not fathom how the Thanedaar, despite being a Muslim, was unharmed by the Serpents. They themselves being devout to their religion and Devi Devtas were not accepted by the Serpents, the same Serpents which adorn the neck of the Shiva the Destroyer, but they let the Thanedaar through. Maybe they didnt realise that the Serpents didnt judge a man by his religion but by his deeds, due to some higher divine power vested in them. Maybe this was a lesson which holds true for us even in today’s day and age.

Anyways moving on the times changed and the Rajas / Ranas lost power and a State Police System came into being and there was no place in such a system for the old relic, the Thanedaar of Balsan. Age had caught up with him and though well respected the Thanedaar didnt have a job and whiled his time away and gradually fell into ill health. And one day the winds of time swept the Thanedaar into the nether world. He was survived by his wife and a son.

The son was quite the opposite to his father. Maybe when you have such a dominating man as a father you tend to be a very timid, quiet and kept to his own devices. The Thanedaar had earned great respect both because of his loyalty and ferocity amongst the people. But seemingly one thing he didnt acquire was wealth. No land, no property, just a house. With time after his passing his wife also fell ill and one day on her death bed she called her son. And the son as usual asked him that what did my father leave me ? She said that the father has left you all that you need and more. Never sell this house. This is your treasure and having said this she breathed her last and passed away.

Meanwhile the son had taken up a job as a caretaker of an Apple Orchard in Chakrot Village. He worked hard, he worked well. And it was clear to all that one trait that he had inherited from his father and that was loyalty. He still kept that house but it was falling into disrepair as he moved with his family to the Orchards where he worked as a care take. So one day he decided to get rid of the house and sell it. And thence the house was sold.

It is told that the person who bought the house decided to demolish it and make a new one. While breaking down the old house the new owners discovered a treasure of Gold and precious stones. And to think that the son had been told by his mother that the house is more than enough. So it seems that the Thanedaar did leave behind something for his progeny but fate had it other wise. How exactly was this treasure accumulated ? Was it the Ranaji who gave him ? Or did the serpents let him take this for his own account ? Nobody knows the answer. Neither do I. It just happens that the new ownners of the house are today one of the richest families in what used to be the Balsan State. They never really revealed the extent of the treasure of the Thanedaar of Balsan that they had uncovered.

The Ranaji had passed away but the old Rani Sahiba got this news and called the son of the Thanedaar to see her. The loyalty of the Thanedaar was not lost of the Old Rani Ma. The Royals knew that the Land Ceiling Act was coming and rather than turn in all the land to the Government they would rather give some of the land. A few acres of what was very good land for growing Apples. She asked him to visit the location of the said land and pick the piece of land that he wanted.

The son went back home and thought he would plan and go some day to that land and pick up his piece of land. The days turned into weeks and weeks into months and something or the other kept delaying his plans. Maybe it was his procastination. And then one day the news came. The Rani Ma had passed away. And with her were gone the award of land that the son of the Thanedaar of Balsan had been given.

This is the way we have been told this story. The veracity remains doubtful at places. I dont know. I take it as I am told. Would have surely loved to have met the almost legendary Thanedaar of Balsan.

Our Family Orchard’s were also situated on one edge of the Balsan Stae right where its border met that of Kotkhai state. Its is said that the Rana of Balsan had moved his most warlike people and settled them on the border with Kotkhai, where the two were
seperated by a mountain stream called the Koku Nala. This was because the British had taken control of the Kotkhai state through their vissicitudes and the Rana of Balsan didnt want any of that in Balsan.

Oh yes I forgot to tell you. The son took care of our Family Orchards and I knew him well. He was quite a gentleman. And we were very fond of him as kids as he would always take care of us and carry us around whenever we were tired of our endless games in the mountains. He also passed away a few years back.They served the family faithfully for over 30 years and took care of the Orchards as their own.

After he passed away a part of the Orchard was given to the family in perpetuaty by my Mamaji. And they have built a house and continue to grow Apples in their part of the Orchards. Though they now they no longer take care of our family Orchard.

That legacy of loyalty ended with the son.

The son of the Thanedaar of Balsan.

21/03/2024

My Article in the Scroll about one of my favourite Forgotten Ancient Monuments of the Pir Panjals.

Its now been a few years I visited the site and published the Story and Photos on the Internet quite widely.

But in all this longwhile I have had only One Person call me and get details on how to get to Site and options to Stay as she was conducting some research for the University of Los Angeles.

It seems rather strange to me such a significant Monument to the Past invokes no interest by the General citizens or anyone else for that matter.

Largely unknown to the outside world, these sentinels have been around since ancient times.

16/03/2024

On a Flight of Fancy to Leh

A flight to Leh from the Plains gives you an actual chance to view the awesomeness of the mightiest Mountain Range on the Planet especially just as Winter gives way to Spring and the Peaks have the maximum amount of Snow which accentuates the appearance of the Mountains.

The endless Plains first give way to the lower Hills and the Shivaliks. Its just ahead and coming out of these lower Hills are a number of Rivers as they enter the Plains. And the effect of man's work is also visible as you see the Reservoirs of various Dams appear once into the lower Hills.

The lower Hills give way to the Lesser Himalayan Ranges like the Dhauladhar and the Pir Panjals. These appear as big mountains with craggy tops and snow higher up with a some small Glaciers.

Once across this suddenly you see an elevation in the lay of the land and suddenly till the eyes can see are visible craggy Peaks all white with massive Glaciers between the Massifs. This is the sign that you are now on the Great Himalayan Range itself. The main and the highest Spine of this Mountain Range. And it goes without saying this appears as the most dramatic part of the Range as its a virtual Ocean of thousands of Spires.

But like all good things must end so does this this.And then you start noticing that the landscape gets browner with lesser Snow and the Mounatins appear to be rounder rather than craggy. These are the Trans Himalayas. And also making their appearance are certain large water bodies that exist on this Trans Himalayan desert.

In the pic below you can see the dramatic change as you cross from the Great Himalayas over to the Trans Himalayas with a River acting like a border. The Mountains to the right of the River are craggier and whiter than the ones to the left. Also in the left corner you see a large water body which is the Tso Moriri Lake.

However the Trans Himalayas dont last long as soon appearing on the horizon are Mountains ever craggier than the Great Himalayan Range. These are the what were called in Turkic language as the Black Rock Mountains and even today we use that term for them, the Karakoram, arguably the most impenetrable Range of the whole system. From the Leh flight as it starts its descent on the first view of the Karakaorams they appear even more formidable till they disappear behind the Ladakh Range and the plane lands along the Indus River.

However if by some luck we were able to continue to fly northwards we would cross the first line of the Karakorams and come across the formidable Deosai and the Depsang with the Changthang of the Tibetan Plateau further afield on the right alongwith Changchenmo. Soon we would be flying over the mighty K2 and the Trans Karakoram Tract. But the fun doesnt end until you run into the spires of Kun Lun and the Pamirs at the point they meet and converge. Another great Mountain vista awaits you you cross another of these Great Mountain barriers which seperate the Indian sub-continent from Central Asia. And finally our imaginary flight would land at Yarkand at the edge of the Tarim Basin.

You have just flown over the most formidable Mountain barrier on the Planet. Now think of the Men who crossed these barriers on foot. And let me know if a chill passes down your spine when you are told their stories

Do walk the Mountains someday instead of flying or driving over them

Pic from April 2018. Delhi to Leh flight.

12/03/2024

We plan to have a peep into this amazing part of the Himalayas if all goes well during our THPC JK Edition 2024

The Last Inner Himalayan Wilderness

In the Inner Himalayas lies a beautiful Region so remote that most people haven't even heard of it forget about going there. Kishtwar itself is remote and always under the shadow of Kashmir but this part of Kishtwar which lies next to Kashmir on one side and the Suru Valley of Ladakh on the other side is probably one of the last great wildernesses in the Inner Himalayas. This is the Warwan- Marwah - Dachchan belt lies along the Maru Wadwan River or as its also known Warwan / Marwah (Marev) / Marsu Dhar River along different parts of its course, which is a major tributary of the Chenab. These three sub parts of this Region all lie along the same River and offer a rare insight into how people lived maybe many years ago. Sandwiched between the Pir Panjals and the Great Himalayan Range this is a Region few outsiders have set foot.

My romance with this area began in 1989 when I was a student in Class 9 in the Burn Hall School, Srinagar. We were supposed to Trek from Daksum in Kashmir to Kishtwar via the Sinthan Pass. But at the last moment the original Trek was changed. Now we were to go from Daksum to Pahalgam via the Warwan Valley. None of us had even heard of Warwan Valley before but of course we had little choice in such matters. So off we went and on the second day we climbed up the Margan Pass and started to descend into Warwan Valley towards Inshan.

It was like walking into a lost World. The Houses were still made all of wood and the people still held that innocence. Of course the whole Village was excited as we were around 30 people. Technically though Warwan is in Kishtwar the people here speak the purest and the oldest form of Kashmiri. We happened to Trek for a few days in the Valley headed North and after reaching the head of the Valley we turned right and went over the Gulol Pass and descended onto the Sheshnag Lake to join the Amarnath trail. And of course we didnt take any pics at that time. But the memories were still there. And even today pics of these areas are very hard to come by.

For more read the Article Link in the First Comment

Pics Courtesy D K Dogra

01/03/2024

And the Final Route Map of our High Pass Challenge JK 2024 Edition starting from the historic Town of Basohli near Pathankot on May 11.

A unique Drive that takes you thorugh the diverse regions of the UT of Jammu and Kashmir across a series of 10 Passes and into areas few outsiders venture into.

From Kathua to Doda to Kishtwar to Kashmir to Poonch / Rajouri we got it all covered in this Drive like no other.

Get out of your comfort zone. And go for a unique Adventure.

You an get in touch with me over Whats App number 98712 92288 for more details.

24/01/2024

Visit Kashmir 2024 !

A drive along the beautiful Kishanganga River in Gurez !

Know more about thhe Kishangange here :

15/01/2024

Bagtore is a beautiful Village on the Western end of the Gurez Valley and the Villages beyond Bagtore lie across the LoC. One of th main Villages across the LoC is Taobat which is also known for its beauty.

Bagtore has recently been opened for Civilians and Outsiders and one its main feature is the expansive Meadow called the Bagtore Maidan. And of ofcourse the Kishanganga meandering through the Village.

This Season do give a try and visit these little known pieces of Heaven spread across Kashmir.

Do get in touch with us on 98712 92288 for discovering th Offbeat side of Kashmir !

30/12/2023

Kashmir LOC : Machil

The Machil Valley lies on the Northern fringes of the Kashmir Valley in the District of Kupwara. Its nestled around the Machil River and in geographical terms its stands North of the Lolab Valley across the Zamindar Gali, a Pass that needs to be crossed in order to get into the Machil Valley. It lies close to the Line of Control and as such the access is limited. Its nonetheless a beautiful area which is like a mix of Lolab Valley to the South and Gurez Valley to the East.

Machil or Matsil as its called was always a fascinating little place for people since they read about its beauty and remote location. Though the Civilian Authorities and the Army call it Machil or Machal (not to be confused with Machail of Paddar, Kishtwar) the locals call it Matsil. The name is derived from the Dardic word for Fish. Its said that once upon a time the Matsil River which drains the Valley was full of Fishes.
Machil Valley is accessed via the Z Gali or the Zamindar Gali over the Shamshabari Mountain Range. Its called the Zamindar Gali as in the olden times many people in Lolab used to have Land in Matsil where they used to grow Crops in the summertime. Over time some of these people settled here. Also as per the Gazzette of 1890 this area was often raided by Chilasis (yes from Chilas) so that also kept people away though the area is awash with Gujjars and Bakarwals who come here with their livestock for the rich pasturage the Valley offers in the Summers.

Geographically though the Matsil Valley is a sub Valley of the Kishanganga which the Matsil flows into. But as of today the LOC is reached before the Kishanganga in this Valley and opposite to Machil on the other side is the Village of Kel and of course its splendidly beautiful neighbouring Village of Arang Kel which unfortunately we cant visit (Do Google Arang Kel to get an idea of the beauty). And im sure there are places in Machil which have the same level of spectacular beauty.

03/10/2023

Across the LOC in Keran.

In Keran you can actually see life on the other side of the LOC

Resorts and Hotels on the other side of the Kishanganga which they call as the Neelum and they refer to this area as the Neelum Valley.