Gravel Road Adventures (2024)

20/08/2024

There was a lot more than just great bird sightings on our recent Kgalagadi trip. It had lots of excellent animal sightings and interactions. See the Springboks sparring. I did not mention a Pale Chanting Goshawk chasing a snake and killing it. Definitely a first for me.

The trip was not without some tense vehicle moments but as I will explain came with huge silver linings. Try a puncture at 13th Waterhole and the incredible assistance from 2 separate vehicles to ensure we got to Mata Mata for a puncture repair.

The bigger anxious moment was luckily near the end of the trip. Suspension compressor failure that led to shredding a rear tyre. Happened just before entering Nossob northern gate. The next 2 days were spent in Nossob waiting for a recovery flatbed to Upington. A HUGE shout out to the SANParks staff at Nossob who went way beyond great customer service to ensure we were supported and could effectively arrange the recovery.
Only 1 night lost from the trip.

SANParks you rock.

18/08/2024

Recently returned from a 16 night soul nourishing trip in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Mostly spent in remote wilderness camps....no TV, news or electricity and the latter not Eskom related. Bliss! Thought the big challenge would be catering and especially fresh foods. Even that was easily achieved, try salads almost every night, fresh fish on 4 occasions spread across the trip. The trick was using our Waeco fridge as a freezer. Problem solved.
The icy cold mornings were a bigger challenge and the cats especially stayed in the warmer dunes. It was not for lack of hearing them and seeing tons of spoor. All part of the adventure to search for the sightings and there were plenty.
This post is just the birds. Next one the other sightings.

09/12/2023

The Richtersveld Transfrontier National Park is an under rated gem. The ever changing mountain, valley and river geography makes for dramatic photo opportunities and driving experiences. Some of the latter can be extremely challenging and definitely only for high clearance and 4 wheel drive vehicles. This visit, not our first, did not disappoint.
The highlight was using a lesser known 4x4 trail that traverses the southwest corner of the park to exit at the Hellskloof gate. We and the Land Rover loved every minute of the 3,5hrs that it took. The ever changing scenery was amazing and made very special by the array of spring flowers.
Richtersveld we are definitely coming back!

27/09/2023

Excited that Mata Mata border post to Namibia is operating again. I have added a few extra Kgalagadi highlight pictures.
Easy access to southern Namibia allowed a visit to the western side of the Fish River Canyon. It hosts the only lodge that is built overlooking the canyon. What a breathtaking location with great walks as well as cycling and the only access down to the canyon floor by vehicle. Be aware it's a 9 hour round trip. The Fish River Lodge staff are excellent, topping off a great stay.
Talking to a Namibian tour guide, I discovered that the pont at Sendelingsdrif had reopened a week earlier. What a win, it saved 183kms that would have taken 3.5 hours. Gave us time to enjoy the spring flowers along the route. The pont operated by SANParks is fantastic.

19/09/2023

Just back from a fantastic trip to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Southern Namibia & Namaqualand. Too much for one post so will do this is in stages.
First stop was Kgalagadi and it did not disappoint. The route included Nossob, Grootkolk & Mata Mata. Each offered a great experience but a stand out was Grootkolk, it delivered again with lots of excitement. Some standout events were a big male lion at sundown approaching our braai area and then deciding a good spot to relax was 15m from the braai. There is only a 1,2m high wire fence around it. Took a few beers to get back to finishing the braaiing. Another exciting moment was a big lioness charging our vehicle. No running in the park but great cardiovascular exercise with these encounters.

14/08/2023

Despite the cold weather, temperatures are rising! 12 days to go to another "Gravel Road Adventure". This one is into Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Southern Namibia, the Richtersveld & Augrabies National Parks, Nieuwoudtville's flower paradise and some recovery time enjoying wine and food in the Robertson/Swellendam area. No wonder the temperature is rising. Cannot wait for the outdoors and the call of jackal and lion.

12/06/2023

We often overlook great places just because they are relatively easy and fairly close. What a mistake but easily corrected. I am talking about Addo Elephant National Park. It never fails to surprise us with its diverse wildlife, lush vegetation and different geographic areas. The northern Nyathi section has been a treat with large herds of Eland, Buffalo and Elephant and on the last 2 visits male and female Lions.
The biggest surprise was on the last day driving from Nyathi all the way south to Matyholweni and not seeing a single Elephant. Definitely a first for Addo! Great way to recharge our personal batteries by being in the great outdoors and being gifted with special sightings. Now back to planning for other travelers. See our blogs for more detail. https://www.gravelroadadventures.co.za/2023/06/09/where-have-all-the-ellies-gone/

02/03/2023

Namibia is calling, it's definitely time to get away from the desk and onto the long roads and open spaces. A special place is always the time spent in Etosha National Park. Full of surprises and great experiences. It makes the long drive up from southern South Africa worth it. Now the possibility of more northern and eastern areas start to become attractive......Zambezi Region, Botswana, Zambia.

27/02/2023

Birthdays are not to be trifled with so I set about planning three days of celebration….. La Sosta in Swellendam was the chosen main event destination and it did not disappoint. Salvatore and Nina create sublime magic in their kitchen. Even favorite dishes had subtle changes. As Salvatore said “they would get bored if they did not innovate change aspects”. They have my vote.
We were spoilt with a glass of Blanc de Blanc MCC from De Wetshof. A great bubbly that is not marketed. A long slow dinner then got underway with delicious dishes that included, Wagyu carpaccio, Vegetarian raw lasagna (all vege, no pasta), Risotto with baby calamari, Semolina Gnocchi, Cappelletti pasta with cod & leek filling and dry aged fillet that was rare perfection. Cream cheese mousse with cherry sorbet was an extra treat. Oh there were a few wines!
The next day took us to Elim and the Black Oystercatcher. There was a not so small detour to a winery I have not visited before - The Giant Periwinkle.
Best to see Marielle’s blog for details https://pseudotorontogirl.wordpress.com/2023/02/27/black-oystercatchers-a-giant-periwinkle/
Day 3 was back in Knysna with Jan & Terry Raats and friends being spoilt to another amazing meal. The only question that remains is why only 3 days?

03/02/2023

A quick visit to Cape Town for an exceptional Italian wine tasting hosted by Gambero Rosso gave us a great opportunity to stay over and eat at La Sosta in Swellendam. What a treat. Nina and Salvatore conjure up magic in the kitchen. With the encouragement of a fellow traveller, Brad, we happily attacked five plus courses and as many wines over a long dinner. First up was fresh sourdough bread with lime and fig leaf infused butter. Then the fun really started....Vegetarian Raw Lasagna, Wagyu Carpaccio with Dijon Espuma, Risotto with Baby Calamari & Citrus Butter, Parmigiano Creme Brûlée & Onion Focaccio, Saffron Semolina Gnocchi with Baby Marrow Veloute, Pork Loin Rib and Tiramisu to float to another world with.
Thank you Nina & Salvatore for creating such a special space & experience.

14/11/2022

Saturday was a quieter catch up day. A superb MCC tasting at Genevieve a bubbly maker in the Bot River valley. Definitely worth a visit. The signature is a Blanc de Blanc. Chardonnay so delicious that it requires very little dosage. Melissa also makes one with zero dosage. Then onto a lunch at Farro at Gabrielskloof wine estate. The truffled torteletti on creamed cauliflower was excellent. Also trout fish cake on dill cured cucumber and then slow roasted lamb in a crispy scrumpet on romesco.
The piece de resistance was Sunday at Newton Johnson winery. Chef Tullishe is a master class all of her own. She created 7 special courses for our food journey that lasted from 12.30 to after 4.30. We will dream about this experience for a long time.
Try this for size - yellowtail sashimi with ponzu sriracha & sesame seeds; marinated beetroot with pistachios and orange segments on creamed feta; tender stem broccoli on romesca sauce with Parmesan almond pangratata crumble; poached Gnudi ricotta with Parmesan spinach basil on a tomato sauce; prawn & kingklip thai curry; Yorkshire pudding filled with the components of a traditional roast and a crème brûlée. Yes lots of plate licking in between so as not to leave any treasures behind. All complemented by Newton Johnson Chardonnay and Pinot noir. Truly sensational…..thank you Tullishe.

11/11/2022

What a day, breakfast at La Sosta, a beautiful drive through the Overberg to Franschhoek. Then some real fireworks. A tasting menu lunch at Le Coin Francais. The journey of flavors was amazing. From the amuse-bouche of a cigar of hazelnut paste and some labane and a wild mushroom base to more then it’s possible to detail. Try smoked yellowtail fish, langoustine on pancetta risotto with a Gruberg cheese and snoek veloute, dry aged duck confit and more. The desserts were amazing. A chocolate mushroom. The stem with orange in the middle. Black chocolate crumble for the earth around and a delicate cheese cake.
But the that was lunch……….
Now for Oku an Asian treat. Crispy squid, pan fried prawn dumplings, duck ramen and sweet & sour chicken breast.
What a day!

10/11/2022

Truly special evening. Being fed by Nina and Salvatore at La Sosta in Swellendam is a special treat. The fantastic support service delivered in the front of house by Gareth and Bronwyn rounds off an amazing experience. Hard to detail the meal, but here goes. Multiple courses, so many that some were split to ensure we tasted as many as possible. Try wagyu beef and kudu carpaccio (the kitchen happily accommodated our request for half and half), strawberry gazpacho, parmigiano crème brûlée, a citrus risotto with tuna tartare, traditional tortello, pork belly, Kingklip roulade with grapefruit blurred Blanc and beef sirloin rare and delicate. I cannot give all the details of the dishes as there are too many or maybe the incredible wine list is to blame.

17/10/2022

A final trip post as we landed back in SA this morning. After 36 hours of travel it is nice to reminisce on the last few things we did.
First a picture from Chinon, too pretty not to post and a home cooked meal that was a winner. Saturday lunch found us back at Diane De Meridor.
It was as classy and flavorful as ever and great way to round off the trip. An aubergine pate as a palate teaser started the process.
We could not resist 2 starters we had before, a sweet spicy gazpacho topped with smoked salmon done 2 ways. Presented as a closed dish but wow when opened. The second, sheets of Iberico ham over a risotto that also includes chopped ham. The mains were Sandre, a river fish (perche) with interesting vegetables and veal with a mushroom sauce and presented with Lima beans, other veges and both quinoa and risotto.
Not easy in a French kitchen to escape dessert. An excellently tart citron sorbet and a citron infused cheesecake that is close to a foam topped with rhubarb. A great combination.
Now it’s back to increased running and austerity central. Let’s see how long it lasts. More exciting then the austerity is the prospect of planning more Gravel Road Adventures.

13/10/2022

A busy 2 days so no posting. Tuesday was a running rest day so we set off on a 13.5 km walk through neighboring villages. So much for rest days! It was good walking past lots of farm lands and through picturesque villages. The downside was this late in the season a lot closes at lunchtime and only a cold beer was had. A late picnic lunch at home was a winner (read good call having supplies at the house for just such an emergency). A short sortie out to local shops provided the makings of a prawn dish. Wednesday, we had a date for lunch at Vincent Cuisiniere. This definitely demanded a 6km run to justify what was to come. En route we stopped at a wine maker, Olga Raffault, to stock up on Chenins from 4 years and Cabernet Francs from 3 years. Amazing the range of vintages readily available. The lunch was the usual enjoyable marathon for which we have been staying match fit. An array of tasty treats from the chef. The best looked like a small roll but was a cheese puff. Starters consisted of a seasonal vegetable salad with lots of tasty surprises in the layers and snails in a delicious broth that required a spoon and plenty fresh bread. We both resorted to previous favorites for mains. Trout beautifully prepared and rare steak with foie gras. The real surprise was the Sancerre wine.
I’ve said it before but cooking at home in the evenings is a treat and relaxing after all the adventuring. We are spoilt for choice of fresh ingredients. The bigger challenge was deciding what year of wine to start with.
The weather has been very kind across the entire trip to date. But finally autumn has arrived with rain forecast. Cannot complain as it’s the last 3 days of a month of travel. This morning we walked around the town of Chinon with a bustling market in progress. Only French locals or visitors and not that many. Now it’s time to relax as a light rain finally settles in. Dinner calls……or more like it some kitchen time.
See also M’s blogs at https://pseudotorontogirl.wordpress.com/

10/10/2022

This morning dawned very early by our standards. 2 goals drove this. The first to fill the car with gasoline (there is a strike in progress, unusual for France, but we won’t go there) and second we had tickets booked for the Abbey Royale Fontevraud and it’s modern art museum. The first task was successful but took a long detour past some empty stations. The second was brilliant. The museum houses a private collection of impressionist, cubist and other artists of the twentieth century. The abbey is dramatic in scale and size and a fascinating visit. Lunch in the square outside was light relief.
Another highlight for me was an unexpected find. Taking a cross country route to a supermarket through lots of small villages, we chanced upon a winery I had visited 7 years before. Yes I stopped and purchased wines. The amazing thing is the variety of older wines readily available.
Hence the salmon & roasted sun dried tomato dinner at home accompanied by Olga Raffault 2014 Chenin Blanc and 2009 Cabernet Franc. What a treat.
All so see M’s blog at https://pseudotorontogirl.wordpress.com/2022/10/11/appreciating-loires-cuisine/

09/10/2022

Crisp bright morning today and a good 6km run along the Loire river in new territory. Beautiful countryside and mansions. Need to to walk the route with a camera. A super treat was lunch booked at Diane de Meridor, a stylish restaurant in a small village alongside the river. It was also a market day, no food but all sorts of other knickknacks and family heirlooms.
The focus however, was lunch. First a small aubergine treat from the chef. Starters were amazing. M had gazpacho with smoked salmon 2 ways, a small salad with it and a side. Great presentation matched the flavors. Mine was a black rice risotto that had Iberian ham in it and sheets of it above being warmed by the hot plate. Mains were equally good. Fish paired with white asparagus, Lima beans and creamed potato and Angus beef very rare (as requested) with a smoked couscous, purple cabbage and mushrooms. And yes this is France, there was dessert. A platter of cheeses with delicious rolls and a citrus infused cheesecake with rhubarb on top. Boy do we have to keep running…..

Gravel Road Adventures

20/08/2024

18/08/2024

09/12/2023

27/09/2023

19/09/2023

14/08/2023

12/06/2023

02/03/2023

27/02/2023

03/02/2023

14/11/2022

11/11/2022

10/11/2022

17/10/2022

13/10/2022

10/10/2022

09/10/2022

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