24/08/2023
HERE WE GO AGAIN
Chapter 102 - Port Hedland Day 2
The night has not treated my back well. I am stiff and sore this morning and require significant time with the deep tissue massager to even arise.
Overnight we have gained a neighbour. We didn't hear them come in, and because they are a motorhome they did not need to make much noise. As they were not there when we retired the night before we had actually spread ourselves well into their site. Apologetically I move the Cruiser but they are already packing to go.
It’s a funny sort of day, might be the source of much of my aches and pains. It’s trying to be overcast, but the heat is wearing that option thin. With the cloud cover has come some wind, a “change” is upon us.
But there are places to go and things to see and the weather, for now, will not be stopping us. The Visitor Information Centre is always a good start. Along with all the good tour advice and booking availability, there are always knick-knacks to tempt the would-be shopper, even the window shopper. Time is one thing we have plenty of, having booked afternoon and early evening tours.
Let’s get in an early lunch. There are rumours of a good meal at the yacht club. It’s not far from the centre of town, so we head out. The Club is in the middle of a massive foreshore redevelopment. There are big pieces of construction equipment everywhere. You can see the yacht club and a “road” that seems to head towards it. We venture in halting for some of the large equipment to passing before being ushered past by a roller driver.
Having made it all the way to the Club we are disappointed to find that although it is open, it doesn't do lunch, so we climb back into the Cruisers and dodge the construction machinery again and get back to the main road. We regroup in a car park just out on the road and marvel at the vastness of the redevelopment.
Behind us is the old hospital and it has been repurposed into a Dove Cafe. With time dwindling before our first tour we wander in. There is a pleasant surprise at the fare. Lots of treats are displayed and the menu is more than adequate for our needs.
We order testing plates and the meals come in due course. Certainly enough to fill us and at a very reasonable price. A good catch.
Now time for our first tour. Starting in the Seafarers Centre we are treated to a discussion about Port Hedland and the seafaring operations. We are also told of what to expect in the second half of the tour, a cruise around the harbour.
Clambering onto a large coach we have ferried the short distance to the wharf where our cruiser awaits. It’s a large vessel, but nothing like the size of some of the monsters docked here at present. Whilst most are wanting to be outside for an uninterrupted view, I seek the warmth of the wheelhouse where I am able to converse with the skipper as we wander the port.
He talks of the three big players here - BHP, Rio Tinto and Gina Reinhart, all having their own wharves. We pass one ship that has been overloaded and will sit until the next king tide which will allow enough water under its keel for it to leave without the chance of blocking the port. The entrance to the harbour is only just deep enough for traffic. To block it would cost millions of dollars in lost exports. Better for one ship to wait for that hold up the entire fleet.
Not only does iron ore leave here, salt and manganese also are exported out of Port Hedland but they are done from a purpose-built jetty. Most of the ships here are being filled with iron ore.
They cannot simply dump the ore into the ship's holds either. There is careful loading procedures to ensure stresses on bulkheads remain within tolerances. It is possible to sink one of these giants of the sea with an improperly weighted load. The skipper talks of empty tankers being brought in, spun on their axis in the middle of the harbour and shunted into place so that when filled are already pointing in the correct direction. One dock, rather than having a roping system to tie off the ship actually has large suction cups to hold it in place as it is a mooring.
When our present mode of transportation is not doing tours, it is often used to transfer grocery items and mail to the ships. The skipper lets me in on a number of stories about his travels around the port. The overloaded ship waiting for a large high tide is not the first, nor will it be the last one in that predicament. He laughs at the costs the ship’s owners must be incurring holding up that wharf.
The tour is over too soon and we deposited back at the wharf. There are fishermen here now. It’s getting towards the top of the tide. The skipper suggests it might be worth a watch as trevally and sharks are often taken here. For now, though the fisherman has to wait for us to alight before they can go back to their recreational pursuits.
Walking past some of them, their catches are indeed trevally but no sharks.
Robyn and I are booked for an evening tour of the port facilities but Silver Leader and Rose are going back to the vans. We have enough time to grab a quick afternoon tea in the Seafarers Centre and walk into people we met at Barn Hill Station. Pleasant conversation accompanies the afternoon tea.
The evening tour is much different. We are going on a bus tour around the Port. There are huge repositories of iron ore, trucked and trained in from Tom Price, Marble Bar and various other mines in the area owned by the three big miners. The elongated hills of ore stretch on along the foreshore. The large bucket excavators load it from the mounds to conveyor belts and onto the ships.
These machines, like the ships that transfer the ore, are monstrous. Each bucket moves many tonnes of ore at a time. The level of the pounds of ore on either side of the excavator is a testament to the ability of the machine to move ore.
The bus calls through to the port operator to get permission for us to proceed. Something the ordinary tourist cannot achieve. Inside the contained area we are taken to a place where two trains are racing each other, moving a carriage at a time past us. Unloading the ore is a fascinating process of the trains, kilometres in length, travelling through a shed where the trucks are rotated along the long axis of the truck, whilst still attached to the train, dumping their 240 tonne loads into hoppers below to be transported to the mounds we had just passed.
The trains where we presently sit, are unmanned. Here they are controlled by the “shed” grabbing 2 trucks at a time and unloading the ore. The process takes only seconds and the train moves again as the next trucks are aligned. The “race” between the two-mile long plus monsters will continue until both are unloaded, then, controlled from a room in Perth, they will be returned to the mines for reloading.
While the ore trains race past us, our guide breaks out the libations, cheese and bikkies and a container of rocks, all samples of the wares of the Pilbara. As the sun sets and we enjoy the repast, he discusses each of the rocks, their importance to the steelmaking industry and or the export dollars they produce as well as the mind-numbing numbers associated with this port.
The sun has set, all the boxes are back in the bus and we are off to see the port at night. Being a 24/7 operation all the machinery that glistened and shon in the sun, covered in red oxide as they are, is now working under lights. The massive structures are awash with powerful lighting.
As we drive by, it is impossible not to marvel at the sheer size of everything here. Then you are filled with the sobering thought that this is only one of many such ports exporting the red dirt to the world.
With the tour done, it’s back to the park to unload our experience on our fellow travellers. Silver Leader has the barby ready and we throw some meat and potatoes on it and they potentially kick themselves that they did not come, especially when the pictures start to come out.
Bed and the sleep come quickly.