14/04/2017
Many Thanks Rachel Zilberman for your lovely commentary.
Glimpse of Bhutan
Once you choose finding yourself in a harmoniously balanced, joyous environment which can be a rescue from our challenging hurtful, unfair everyday life, you should know that such amazing place exists. It is called Bhutan, the last Buddhist Kingdom of the world.
We were gradually discovering this country for ourselves, day by day, during our ten days trip without any prior knowledge of the outcome. No doubt that this wouldn't happen so rapidly and so brightly without wise help of Mr. Tenzin Dorji. He meticulously worked with my husband on the itinerary and the actual organization of our journey. Every detail was thoroughly thought of. This is a very important factor that creates the integrity of the overall impression. It was done really well. However the realization (on the highest level) would not be possible without knowledge, kind attitude and generous care of our tour guide Yeshi Dorji and our awesome driver Coenzang. So we are grateful indeed.
Our journey started by a beautiful Tacho Lhakhang, the heredity place of worship for Bhutan’s Iron Bridge Builder. We looked around at the scenery view of the river, stopped for a while by the closed beautifully decorated wooden door to the bridge, and listened to Yeshi's explanations about the bright prayer flags raised on the top of a river bank. Prayer Flags are inscribed with auspicious symbols, invocations, prayers, mantras and deity prints. Buddhists for centuries have planted these flags outside their homes and places of spiritual practice for the wind to carry the beneficent vibrations. Prayer flags are said to bring happiness, long life and prosperity. The five colors of prayer flags represent the five basic elements: yellow-earth, green–water, red-fire, white-air, blue-space (in others explanations: Earth, Water, Fire, Metal and Wood). If the flags are hung vertically, then the bottom is yellow, and the uppermost is blue. Traditionally, they are fastened to eaves or sewn onto ropes to be displayed horizontally, or they are fastened to bamboo, wood or metal poles for vertical display. Our guide added: “When you see the flags fluttering in the wind, you should think that they have wished you good luck and a good journey". And we drove to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. There we visited a Tibetian-style National memorial chorten built by Queen mother in the memory of her son, the late King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk. Many people performed their daily worship there. Some aged women were tirelessly doing bowing ritual, and some people were rotating prayer drums (which is tantamount to reading aloud the millions of mantras put into it), and some people were simply smiling expressing good intentions. As our guide said, the rotating of a prayer drum brings peace and tranquility into the hearts of people, gives harmony to the world around us. (It is necessary to rotate it with a pure motivation - to wish happiness to all living beings). We rotated the prayer drums, then walked around the chorten clockwise twice to gain merit and good luck, and then left the chorten. In Thimphu we visited the Folk Heritage Museum that recreates a traditional Bhutanese family home inside a 19th century rammed earth and timber building. We were impressed by the displayed in the house beautiful artifacts, musical instruments, richly patterned fabrics, and especially gold glints from thangkas (depicting a Buddhist deity, and mandala) hung in the altar's room.
Our true amazement and delight was to attend the National Library of Bhutan. It’s a beautiful home for the sacred religious books, precious manuscripts (Ta***ic Texts are mostly written in the Tibetan language) and photographs located in a four-storeyed eight-cornered traditional building, which looks like the central tower temple of a Bhutanese Dzong . It is a great spiritual place with a magnificent traditional altar with offerings, some historical artifacts and exceptional atmosphere for work. This place truthfully serves the purpose of "preservation and promotion of the rich cultural and religious heritage" of Bhutan and the history of Buddhism. Services offered by the library staff are very helpful.
As we continued the journey we headed to Punakha and crossed over the Dochula pass (at 3050 meters) to see an overwhelming panoramic view of the greater Himalayas and the Wanguel Chortens represented by 108 stupas constructed on the mountaintop in a Mandala pattern. That early morning we stood in the mist between the solemn stupas overlooking the valleys below surrounded by the mountains, it was a magnificent feeling of extreme beauty and tranquility. Within moments the mist disappeared and the sun rays gilded all around. Then we descended and went up to a small temple on top of another hill to pay tribute to this sacred place and put a mark in the memory.
So far, we drove further along the Punakha valley and stopped to visit the auspicious fertility temple, dedicated to the Ta***ic Buddhist Master Drukpa Kinley (Divane Madman). On the way to the temple we crossed the fields, vegetable plantations and observed the rural life style of Bhutanese people.
The next visiting point was the Punaka Dzong, one of the most beautiful Dzongs in Bhutan. It was a great strategic place of the past. We were immensely lucky to get sight of the ritual service there. It was stunning to watch and hear the chanting of the Ta***ic texts by the monks that was supported by the unobtrusive tunes sounded by the traditional musical instruments and Buddhist drums. We stood as spellbound for a while. Then we walked around admiring impressive, colorful and detailed artistry of the surroundings, including huge statues of Buddha , Guru Rinpoche , Zhabdung Ngawang Namgyel and the Buddha Maitreya , as well as paintings of one thousand Buddha(s).
Overwhelmed with unusual feeling we slowly walked to and along the Punakha suspension bridge, known for the second longest suspension bridge (about 200m long). The mind needed a quality time to adopt the experienced impressions.
Proceeding with the tour plans we hiked up to the Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten. It is a three-levelled chorten dedicated to the Fifth King, and built with intention to remove negative forces and provide peace, stability, and harmony in an ever-changing world.
On the way to Phobjikha valley we had a stop for a lunch on a quite dell along the road in the mountains. Our guide and the driver organized it so beautifully and gracefully that our breath was caught with delight and gratitude. Finally we arrived in the Phobjikha valley. Then we plunged into the world of living realities and went to see the winter home of the Black-Necked Cranes. Every year the birds arrive there between mid-October and early December and remain until March. We didn't see the birds, but only a single injured Crane called Karma that was preserved in the shelter. The bird vividly exhibited the beauty and all its abilities for us.
Another wonder was awaiting us. An amazing 16th century Gangtey Monastery produced an incredible spiritual effect on us. It overlooks the large green expanse of the valley. Either the artistic paintings on the walls or the architecture itself and the decorations of the main altar created the feeling of compressed and the transparent presence of ever-lasting time. This knowledge illuminated and highlighted many important things in the memory. With such stricken impression we left the site of the monastery. The drive back to Thimphu was quiet which helped us to settle the acquired bright impressions.
The next day we headed to visit Tango Monastery and Tango Dzongha (a meditation temple occupied by hermits) or the Mahāyāna Buddhist Institute. Tango Monastery is a 15th century temple unique in its architecture. According to the legend, when the monastery was presented to Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1617, a battle was going between the Tibetans and Bhutanese. The Zhabdrung therefore meditated in a cave at Tango as a result of which the invading forces were defeated. There is a large stone in the shape of a horse head by the cave, which is supposed to frighten the enemies of Buddhism.
We took a strenuous hike to the Monastery. There we observed the ritual ceremony. The monks were chanting the Ta***ic texts. It was rhythmically supported by the tunes produced by a few traditional musical instruments. I had a chance to speak to some monks of a higher rank about the nature of philosophical studies they follow. It was a very interesting experience.
Full of new impressions, we descended into the valley and finally hit the road again to reach the city of Paro. In Paro we were grateful for the chance to see a famous Paro Festival which is held inside or outside the Dzong. This is a really breathtaking event. The dances are inspired in meditation. They are performed by monks (in most cases). For example, the Dance of the Eight Kinds of Spirits is a dance of the gods of the three worlds (sky, earth, underground). The gods protect the doctrines of the Buddha and subdue the spirits who make the world unhappy. Endless happiness is recovered. The dance is performed by the gods (believed to be incarnated in the dancers themselves) to renew faith and wisdom. Another example is the Dance of the Black Hats with drums. It signifies the victory of religion over enemies. The sound of drums represents religion itself. When all other instruments become silent the drums still prevail.
These festivals reveal the heart of the nation. Notwithstanding that there are numerous foreigners to attend the festivals the majority of the audience are the native people. They come with their children of all ages (even toddlers). People are beautifully dressed in the national attire (even toddlers). The festival days are the manifestations of people mutual shared joy of communication and national pride, the tribute to dignity, happiness, friendliness and artistry of the Bhutanese. Their faces expressed openheartedness, sincerity, and are easily beautified with sheer smiles. This strikes the most.
On the last day of our journey we took an incredible effort climbing up the steep tracks to see the pearl of Bhutan, the Tiger’s Nest Monastery . It was awesome adventure. We would never make it without an incredible help of our wonderful tour guide Yeshi and a miraculous driver Coenzang. We were very grateful. Tiger's Nest is a true spiritual place. People are aspired to get there due to so different reasons. Some are seeking a challenging ascent, some are attracted by the solemnity of the temple, and some are looking for the purgation through sharing the space with divine spirit of great teacher Guru Padmasambhava.
Every place we visited in Bhutan was a must see event. Tiger's Nest is a true spiritual place. People are aspired to get there due to so different reasons. Some are seeking a challenging ascent, some are attracted by the solemnity of the temple, and some are looking for the purgation through sharing the space with divine spirit of great teacher Guru Padmasambhava.
Now these impressions and feelings have to settle in the memory as a bright Sun ray that once spilled on us.
Rachel Zilberman
04/12/2017
Paro Taktsang, is a prominent Himalayan Buddhist sacred site and the temple complex is located in the cliffside of the upper Paro valley in Bhutan. A temple complex was first built in 1692, around the Taktsang Senge Samdup cave where Guru Padmasambhava is said to have meditated for three years, three months, three weeks, three days and three hours in the 8th century. Padmasambhava is credited with introducing Buddhism to Bhutan and is the tutelary deity of the country. Tiger’s Nest has become the cultural icon of Bhutan.
