Association of Canadian Mountain Guides

09/24/2024

Come meet the wonderful people behind many of our local organizations at the Summit Shaker.

Stay sharp, as they'll also be hosting the games! 🤸

Learn more and buy tickets for the Summit Shaker:

🔗 alpineclubofcanada.ca/summit-shaker-2024/

09/21/2024

Bugaboos Conditions

Jordy Shepherd - Saturday, September 21, 2024 - 08:45

Here are a couple photos of the Bugaboos from September 20th. The new snow was melting quickly, but ice will be forming at night with the cool overnight temps.

Jordy Shepherd

ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

www.PeakAlpine.com

Delivering Adventure Podcast

www.DeliveringAdventure.com

Read More ACMG

Here are a couple photos of the Bugaboos from September 20th. The new snow was melting quickly, but ice will be forming at night with the cool overnight temps. Jordy Shepherd ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide www.PeakAlpine.com Delivering Adventure Podcast www.DeliveringAdventure.com

09/20/2024

What's more fun than a night out with your favourite mountain pals? One that includes a few games and prizes! 🎉

Learn more and buy tickets for the Summit Shaker:
🔗 alpineclubofcanada.ca/summit-shaker-2024/

09/19/2024

Kananaskis

Helen Sovdat - Thursday, September 19, 2024 - 08:00

Here are some observations from the Training and Assessment Program’s Hiking Guide Exam.

Groups travelled from the Sheep River to the Elbow River over a period of 4 days on Sept 14- 17. The route went from Bluerock Campsite to Forgetmenot Ridge via Surveyor’s Ridge and Black Cow Hill.

We experienced temperatures ranging from a frosty -2 in the morning to +15 afternoon. Skies were mostly clear with some overcast periods throughout the days. Winds were generally calm to light from the southwest, up to 15km/hour. Aurora was spectacular on the night of the 16th.

Groups used a combination of trails and off trail terrain in an elevation range from 1600-2300 m. Some trails were horse use and informal cattle trails which were generally rough but passable. Off trail travel included lodgepole forest on S and W aspects with some options to use seismic and industry routes. There were several creek crossings that required attention due to slippery rocks and vegetation. Above 1900 m ridgeline travel was easy with good views.

Water levels are getting lower as fall progresses, and small tributaries may be low or dry. Water was found in the valleys but with the cattle grazing and horse activity in the area, water quality was suspect, and we treated all drinking water.

The trees are just starting to transition to autumn and most flowers have gone to seed. There were a variety of bird sightings including grouse, ptarmigan, hawk and falcon. We noticed sheep and deer sign, but little bear sign.

Hiking Guide candidates

Instructors:

Sylvia Forest MG

Helen Sovdat MG

Olivia Sofer SG/HG

Matt Reynolds MG

Read More ACMG

Here are some observations from the Training and Assessment Program’s Hiking Guide Exam. Groups travelled from the Sheep River to the Elbow River over a period of 4 days on Sept 14- 17. The route went from Bluerock Campsite to Forgetmenot Ridge via Surveyor’s Ridge and Black Cow Hill. We experie...

09/10/2024

Valhalla Provincial Park

Teresa Yau - Monday, September 9, 2024 - 16:30

September 6-8th, 2024

We decided to hike into Gimli Campground on the evening of September 6th after hearing that part of the Valhallas had re-opened.

Gimli South Ridge climbed well and we had the route to ourselves. The Mountaineer's Route (descending under the SE face of Gimli) back to camp was completely dry.

Asgard SW Ridge was an adventurous black lichen filled climb that would be scary if wet. The route did provide a fair bit of shade on a hot and smokey day. Access into Mulvey Basin from Gimli Col required carefully navigating 5-10m of exposed black ice/snow and traversing through precariously perched rocks over ice. We snuck through without ice axe and crampons.

A few notes and observations:

- a flowing stream was found down 80m East of Gimli camp (extra water containers were useful)

- rockfall was observed on several events in steep rocky features near/on snow/ice

- we could smell fire smoke on our last day

- limited bundles of chicken wire at the trailhead

- lots of blueberries and mushrooms along the trail

- several hikers/campers, no mountain goats

P1 - Mount Gimli

P2 - Gimli Col descent

P3 - Gladsheim (centre left of photo) & Access to Gimli NE ridge

P4 - Asgard Peak

P5 - Mt Dag, Wolfs Ears, Gimli

Teresa Yau

Read More ACMG

September 6-8th, 2024 We decided to hike into Gimli Campground on the evening of September 6th after hearing that part of the Valhallas had re-opened. Gimli South Ridge climbed well and we had the route to ourselves. The Mountaineer's Route (descending under the SE face of Gimli) back to camp was co...

09/05/2024

Welsh Lakes/Catamount Glacier

Ian Welsted - Saturday, August 31, 2024 - 12:45

From August 27th through the 31st we traversed from Welsh Lakes through to the Catamount Glacier, over 4 nights enjoying the uncrowded Purcells.

Glaciers were mostly bare with a skiff of snow from the previous week which quickly melted and had the glaciers running with water throughout by the end of the trip. Glacier travel was very easy with few crevasses to negotiate. The only difficulties were encountered on the traverse from the North Star Glacier to the Gwendoline ridge where hot conditions and receding ice slopes resulted in much loose rock. We chose to climb 3 short 4th class pitches on a granitic buttress to the right of a 60 meter ice slope half way along the ridge separating the North Star from the Catamount glaciers.

We chose to camp at: the Upper Welsh Lake at a beautiful lake side spot, on glacier-flow left at 2620 meters on the side of the North Star Glacier for two nights, and at a camp below the Olive Hut on glacier-flow right at 2500 meters on granite ridges.

We chose to climb Alpha Centauri instead of North Star peak as the ice slopes on North Star were bare and quite broken. Alpha Centauri involved a couple of short 40 degree ice sections and two brief 4th class sections.

To exit the lower Catamount Glacier required a tight sneak-around on the right side of the rapidly retreating tongue of the glacier. Earlier in the season accessing the Catamount is much more straightforward with snow ledges covering what become smooth granite slabs later season. Feel free to contact me for a precise summertime track.

Overall, a beautiful and quiet 5 days where we had views of the much more frequented Applebee area just slightly north.

Read More ACMG

From August 27th through the 31st we traversed from Welsh Lakes through to the Catamount Glacier, over 4 nights enjoying the uncrowded Purcells.

09/04/2024

Goodbye.

Don't worry! Swiss mountain guide Peter von Känel is ok. Peter was recently leading a team of five young alpinists training with the Swiss Alpine Club in the Mt. Blanc area where they worked on mixed climbing skills.

"We had to traverse a bergschrund that run through the entire face. Such problems are good learning opportunities. I dug a hole, looked inside the bergschrund, and saw that it was not very deep and good-natured. I also saw a thin snow bridge that I judged as 50/50. Properly belayed by two guys, I tested it and it almost held."

As a mountain guide and engineer, Peter emphasizes risk management and honest
communication, adding, every challenge is a chance to learn and grow.

09/02/2024

Sir Donald

David Lussier - Monday, September 2, 2024 - 15:00

Hi all,

I guided an ascent of the Northwest Ridge of Mount Sir Donald near Rogers Pass yesterday September 1st, 2024. Weather was excellent and the route was completely dry. We descended via the west face bypass which was also completely dry.

There were a lot of people on the northwest ridge yesterday (10+ parties). Despite that it was possible to share the route regardless of everyone's speed both on the way up and on the way down. It just required some good communication. The campground was in good shape with many sites available and there was still a little bit of running water.

The short term weather forecast is looking wet today and overnight however, freezing levels should remain high. If the long range sunny forecast materialize, the route should stay in condition.

I have included a few photos showing the current state and snow coverage on nearby glaciers.

Cheers,

David Lussier

ACMG - IFMGA Mountain Guide

www.summitmountainguides.com

Read More ACMG

Hi all, I guided an ascent of the Northwest Ridge of Mount Sir Donald near Rogers Pass yesterday September 1st, 2024. Weather was excellent and the route was completely dry. We descended via the west face bypass which was also completely dry. There were a lot of people on the northwest ridge yesterd...

09/01/2024

Valley of the Ten Peaks

Teresa Yau - Sunday, September 1, 2024 - 16:30

August 30-31st, 2024

Deltaform NW Ridge climbed well. We did not use crampons or ice axe. The new bolted stations are in great condition. Water was found from snowmelt at the Neptuak-Deltaform col bivy.

We replaced some rap tat on the NW Ridge of Neptuak but would recommend bringing some more tat if using alternate rap stations, or if rappels are preferred over downclimbing.

Photo 1-3: Views of the Ten Peaks from Eiffel Lake Trail

Photo 4: Wenkchemna South Ridge

Photo 5: Neptuak NW Ridge

Photo 6: Neptuak SE Ridge as seen from the Neptuak-Deltaform Col

Photo 7: Deltaform NW Ridge

Photo 8: Tuzo & Allen as seen from the East Ridge of Deltaform

Teresa Yau

Austin Goodine

Read More ACMG

August 30-31st, 2024 Deltaform NW Ridge climbed well. We did not use crampons or ice axe. The new bolted stations are in great condition. Water was found from snowmelt at the Neptuak-Deltaform col bivy. We replaced some rap tat on the NW Ridge of Neptuak but would recommend bringing some more tat if...

08/28/2024

Grab all your bestest mountain companions and head up to the party on the hill! See all the faces you’ve been missing all year, gathered in one place.

🎸 Live music
🍔 Dinner
🎲 Games
🥇 Prizes
🔥 Fireside chats
👌 ... and more of the good stuff.

Each year Alpine Club Canada and Association of Canadian Mountain Guides come together to celebrate another year of mountain culture and adventure, and to gather our community to celebrate the work we do.

We’ve made big changes this year, so make sure to follow the 🔗 below for more details and for your tickets!

https://alpineclubofcanada.ca/summit-shaker-2024/

08/28/2024

Snowy Conditions

David Lussier - Tuesday, August 27, 2024 - 22:15

Hi all,

I guided and ascent of the North ridge of Mount Assiniboine Monday August 26th. We were in the area for about 5 days based out of the Hind Hut. The weather was mixed. Saturday, a cold front brought up to 15 cm of snow above 3200m. This snow overlies a previous dusting at higher elevation. Most of the new snow was melted on solar aspect until the new weather front started today. Seems like cooler Fall weather is setting in.

From 3200m upwards, the North ridge was mostly snow covered and wintery. Also, some verglas had formed on previous days making for spicy mixed conditions. There was much less snow/verglas on the ridge proper but the upper north face was holding most of the recent snow. Some 20-30cm pockets of wind slabs from Saturday's moderate to strong SW winds were observed with no reactivity.

Crampons were used on 2/3 of the climb. It made for slow progress however, we had a strong group and excellent weather on Monday.

Nice to be alpine mixed climbing in the high country!

Cheers,

David Lussier

ACMG/IMFGA Mountain Guide

www.summitmountainguides.com

Read More ACMG

Hi all, I guided and ascent of the North ridge of Mount Assiniboine Monday August 26th. We were in the area for about 5 days based out of the Hind Hut. The weather was mixed. Saturday, a cold front brought up to 15 cm of snow above 3200m. This snow overlies a previous dusting at higher elevation. Mo...

08/24/2024

Mt Rogers

Alex Geary - Friday, August 23, 2024 - 21:30

While climbing Mt Tupper today, we had a great view of the South Face of Mt Rogers. It is not looking very appealing. Please see photos attached.

Alex Geary

Read More ACMG

While climbing Mt Tupper today, we had a great view of the South Face of Mt Rogers. It is not looking very appealing. Please see photos attached. Alex Geary

08/23/2024

The inaugural ACMG member Mountain Meet-Up was a huge success yesterday in Squamish. ACMG guides, instructors and staff were on hand to mix and mingle with colleagues.

08/18/2024

Margaret Lake Closure

Parks Canada - Sunday, August 18, 2024 - 14:15

Margaret Lake and creek including the headwall and stream up to Turquoise Lake and a small portion of Hector Lake at the outflow of Margaret Lake are all closed for fish restoration activities. This closure will be in effect until September 20, 2024. Please see the link below for the official notice:

https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/bulletins/61d5bb73-7690-40ed-a4dc...

Read More ACMG

Margaret Lake and creek including the headwall and stream up to Turquoise Lake and a small portion of Hector Lake at the outflow of Margaret Lake are all closed for fish restoration activities. This closure will be in effect until September 20, 2024. Please see the link below for the official notice...

08/16/2024

Rogers Pass - Mt. MacDonald and Mt. Green

Parks Canada - Friday, August 16, 2024 - 15:15

AREA CLOSURE IN EFFECT

Please be advised that all slopes and climbing routes on Mount Macdonald and Mount Green in Glacier National Park will be CLOSED August 20 and 21, 2024. The Trans-Canada Highway will remain open.

This area closure is in place to allow for the safe disposal of unexploded ordinances (UXOs) used in avalanche control operations.

The disposal missions are taking place in remote, mountainous areas. The safety of the traveling public, visitors, staff and partners is our number one priority. Parks Canada tracks every round fired, including date and time fired, target location, and whether it detonated or not and works closely with the Department of National Defence to ensure the safe recovery of UXOs.

More information:

English: Area Closure - parks.canada.ca/pn-np/bc/glacier/bulletins

French: Zone Fermée - parcs.canada.ca/pn-np/bc/glacier/bulletins

Thank you for your cooperation,

MRG Mountain Safety Team

Read More ACMG

AREA CLOSURE IN EFFECT Please be advised that all slopes and climbing routes on Mount Macdonald and Mount Green in Glacier National Park will be CLOSED August 20 and 21, 2024. The Trans-Canada Highway will remain open. This area closure is in place to allow for the safe disposal of unexploded ordina...

08/07/2024

Neil Colgan Hut

Merrie-Beth Board - Tuesday, August 6, 2024 - 15:30

Neil Colgan hut from August 4-6

The main goal of our trip was the hut via the Perren route.

The skies cleared just long enough on Aug 5th to ascend Mt. Bowlen.

The Perren approach route itself is in great condition. I did tighten a few anchor bolts, the bolts in the second last step from the bottom are getting very rust eroded but there is no need to use the worst ones.

There is a small rockfall climbers right of the chain pitch, with some lingering blocks.

The Fay glacier to the hut is in excellent shape, probed up to 125cm of firm snow. There is starting to show plenty of dry ice patches and thinning areas.

Fay looks dry and rockfall hazard on all ice slopes (see pic), Mt Little is ice on the upper slopes and starting to shed rocks regularly, most being stalled by the lower snow slopes.

Happy August to all.

Merrie-Beth Board

Mountain Guide

Read More ACMG

Neil Colgan hut from August 4-6 The main goal of our trip was the hut via the Perren route. The skies cleared just long enough on Aug 5th to ascend Mt. Bowlen. The Perren approach route itself is in great condition. I did tighten a few anchor bolts, the bolts in the second last step from the bottom....

08/05/2024

Mount Robson

Christopher Candela - Friday, August 2, 2024 - 18:00

We climbed Mt Robson (August 1st & 2nd 2024)

Trail is 100% dry to the RR col. Water available at the col (small tarn).

Bivy spot #1 closer to Resplendent still has snow but can easily fit 3 or 4 bivy bags (or 2 tents).

Most of the traverse of the Towers can be done on rock with possibility to shortcut on solid snow.

The bypass on the right side of the 3rd tower still has enough snow to be used but we found it easier to climb the chimney and follow the ridge to the top of the Patterson Couloir. From there solid exposed ice can be used to rappel the bergschrund. We used 2x70m ropes but it can definitely be done with only one 70m.

Glacier travel was good on hard and supportive snow. We probed 235+cm all the way to the Kain Face but we found a 70cm/100cm snow bridge (1 to 2 meters wide). It was solid enough for us to cross but probably not for long.

Kain Face Bergschrund was easily climbable on its right side.

The first 70 meters of the face still holds 80cm of snow. (Shovel handy to dig a good v-thread on the way down).

Then pitch 2 only had 2 feet of snow.

Above that we found only alpine ice (variable quality) except for the last 70m that has snow.

No cornice at the top of the Kain Face so we went up and slightly left for the first pitch then straight up to the top.

The traverse to reach the base of the southeast ridge has some cornices easily avoidable. Steeper terrain though.

The southeast ridge was is perfect shape for us allowing a direct climb on its right side from base to top. No detour required around gargoyles.

The final ridge has minimal cornices and easy to travel except for one very narrow section with a small cornice on the left and very steep terrain on the right side.

On the way back we down climbed the first 70m of the Kain Face to find some ice then 4 to 5 rappels to the base. Bergschrund was easy to rappel but some digging is needed to reach good ice above it.

A lot of debris at the base of the Kain Face but we didn't see any sign of instability except a small slide on the very left side of the face (around 12pm).

On the way back glacier travel was still good (pe*******on on the glacier was only ankle deep).

We climbed back to the towers on the left side of the bergschrund where it was only 2 feet wide and could easily be climbed with a high step using ice tools.

We rappelled the 3rd tower and downclimbed the rest. No sign of rockfall on the traverse.

Read More ACMG

We climbed Mt Robson (August 1st & 2nd 2024) Trail is 100% dry to the RR col. Water available at the col (small tarn). Bivy spot #1 closer to Resplendent still has snow but can easily fit 3 or 4 bivy bags (or 2 tents). Most of the traverse of the Towers can be done on rock with possibility to shortc...

08/05/2024

Yoho National Park

Parks Canada - Friday, August 2, 2024 - 17:00

We climbed Mt Huber via Wiwaxy Gap and the Huber Ledges on August 2, 2024. The Huber Ledges were dry, but had water flowing in the gullies to refill bottles. Due to the warm overnight temps, water was also flowing at the bivy sites next to the glacier.

Snow travel was good despite the warm temps and the only post-holing was a short section on the lowest glacier where the snowpack is getting quite thin. This will be bare ice soon. Some recent rockfall had occurred on the lower glacier but nothing was observed while we were there.

Crevasses were still well bridged on the upper glacier and we climbed up to the Huber-Victoria Col and then back to the climbers right side of the face following the easiest travel with the fewest crevasses. Some front pointing in ice was needed to climb the right side of the upper face and we did several rappels off V-threads on the descent.

The schrund leading up to Victoria from the Huber Glacier was still well bridged with snow.

See photos for more detail including some pics of the Opabin Glacier, Hungabee West Ridge and Mt Odaray.

Visitor Safety

Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks

Read More ACMG

We climbed Mt Huber via Wiwaxy Gap and the Huber Ledges on August 2, 2024. The Huber Ledges were dry, but had water flowing in the gullies to refill bottles. Due to the warm overnight temps, water was also flowing at the bivy sites next to the glacier. Snow travel was good despite the warm temps and...

08/04/2024

Mt Sir Sandford

Alex Geary - Friday, August 2, 2024 - 21:00

Photo of the NW Face of Mt Sir Sandford taken yesterday August 2nd from Serendipity Spire.

Read More ACMG

Photo of the NW Face of Mt Sir Sandford taken yesterday August 2nd from Serendipity Spire.

07/25/2024

Bugaboos, July 19-23, 2024

David Lussier - Thursday, July 25, 2024 - 12:30

Hi all,

First off, my heart goes out to the people and community of Jasper in these unprecedented times.

This is a trip report from a recent 5-day guiding trip to the bugaboos July 19th to 23rd, 2024. We had hot summer temperatures, no overnight freezes, clear but smoky skies, and varied afternoon buildups.

We started our trip with a flight into East Creek with Whitetooth helicopters from the old Bugaboo Lodge airstrip. We based out of the East Creek camp for a few nights from where we climbed "Ride the Snafflehound" on the Snafflepuss Pillar and the "Beckey-Chouinard" on the South Howser Spire. From there we moved on to Applebee camp for a few nights and climbed Snowpatch Spire via the "Krause-McCarthy" route. We exited via the regular access trail on July 23rd. Overall, the alpine rock and glacier travel conditions were excellent. Most routes were dry and there was still a lot of remaining winter snow on the glaciers. Crevasse bridges on most trade approaches were holding well and manageable.

Snow coverage around the East Creek camp was plentiful. That said many bare camping spots could be found. Lots of water was available for camping or refilling on the the way. While there were a few bare glacier sections showing, it was easy to travel on snow on the glaciers below the Pigeon-Howser col and West side of the Pigeon Feathers.

The rappel descent from South Howser Spire was in great shape and totally workable with a single 60m rope as described in the guidebook. The last rappel clears the burgshrund perfectly. Similarly, the Pigeon-Snowpatch Col rappels were in great shape however, while the last rappel takes you over the burgshrund, a short 35-40 deg snow slope must be negotiated to gain the flatter Bugaboo Glacier.

There were no open crevasses on the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col which is still holding snow from the top to bottom. That being said, it is really hard to recommend that route given the erratic rockfall hazard on the above side slopes and gullies.

Overall, we had a great trip with excellent summer conditions. Our main concerns were the rock fall hazard on the BS Col and the uncertainty generated by the smoke obscuring afternoon build up potential.

Now, if that jet stream could steer that rain over to Southern BC, that would be a miracle.

Stay safe,

David Lussier

ACMG Mountain Guide

www.summitmountainguides.com

Read More ACMG

Hi all, First off, my heart goes out to the people and community of Jasper in these unprecedented times. This is a trip report from a recent 5-day guiding trip to the bugaboos July 19th to 23rd, 2024. We had hot summer temperatures, no overnight freezes, clear but smoky skies, and varied afternoon b...

07/25/2024

Rocky Mountains

Conrad Janzen - Thursday, July 25, 2024 - 09:15

I climbed the SW Face/Ridge of Mt Eon with Zac Robinson on July 23-24th under mostly clear skies, though as we drove home the skies were looking a bit apocalyptic at times. All the best to those affected by the wildfires.

The climbing route was snow-free other than crossing the avalanche debris in the main gully on the SW face. We could kick and chop steps with an ice axe across this snow in warm temperatures without using crampons. Some type of boot cleat or crampon would have been useful had it been cooler.

The rest of the route was dry and involved lots of scrambling with 4th or easy 5th-class climbing at times. We used several small to medium cams and a couple of medium nuts for protection on the steeper pitches and did a couple of 15-20 m rappels on the way back down.

The old logging road portion of the access was in reasonably good shape and driveable with a two-wheel drive vehicle that had a bit of clearance. The two old bridges are holding up for now. Very little chicken wire is available at the parking areas for Assiniboine Lake or Eon, so bring your own if you want to use it.

The SW face of Assiniboine still had quite a bit of snow on it from our vantage point.

Conrad Janzen

Read More ACMG

I climbed the SW Face/Ridge of Mt Eon with Zac Robinson on July 23-24th under mostly clear skies, though as we drove home the skies were looking a bit apocalyptic at times. All the best to those affected by the wildfires. The climbing route was snow-free other than crossing the avalanche debris in t...

07/25/2024

Rocky Mountains

Parks Canada - Thursday, July 25, 2024 - 08:00

We climbed the SW Face/Ridge of Mt Eon on July 23-24th under mostly clear skies, though as we drove home the skies were looking a bit apocalyptic at times. All the best to those affected by the wildfires.

The climbing route was snow-free other than crossing the avalanche debris in the main gully on the SW face. We could kick and chop steps with an ice axe across this snow in warm temperatures without using crampons. Some type of boot cleat or crampon would have been useful had it been cooler.

The rest of the route was dry and involved lots of scrambling with 4th or easy 5th-class climbing at times. We used several small to medium cams and a couple of medium nuts for protection on the steeper pitches and did a couple of 15-20 m rappels on the way back down.

The old logging road portion of the access was in reasonably good shape and driveable with a two-wheel drive vehicle that had a bit of clearance. The two old bridges are holding up for now. Very little chicken wire is available at the parking areas for Assiniboine Lake or Eon, so bring your own if you want to use it.

The SW face of Assiniboine still had quite a bit of snow on it from our vantage point.

Conrad Janzen

Read More ACMG

We climbed the SW Face/Ridge of Mt Eon on July 23-24th under mostly clear skies, though as we drove home the skies were looking a bit apocalyptic at times. All the best to those affected by the wildfires. The climbing route was snow-free other than crossing the avalanche debris in the main gully on....

07/25/2024

Mt Temple

Alex Geary - Wednesday, July 24, 2024 - 05:30

Climbed the East Ridge of Mt Temple yesterday. Apart from a few snow patches before the Black Towers, the route was dry. The summit ridge was mostly ice, making it easy to figure out where the edge of the cornice was. Not much smoke yesterday, but that seems to have changed this morning for the worse.

Read More ACMG

Climbed the East Ridge of Mt Temple yesterday. Apart from a few snow patches before the Black Towers, the route was dry. The summit ridge was mostly ice, making it easy to figure out where the edge of the cornice was. Not much smoke yesterday, but that seems to have changed this morning for the wors...

07/23/2024

🌲❤️ To our members, friends and neighbours in Jasper,

Our hearts go out to all the wildfire evacuees. The news of the evacuation of the park and townsite is both distressing and a somber reminder of the unpredictable nature of such events.

Our thoughts are with you. We understand the fear and uncertainty that this situation brings, and we are keeping you in our hearts.

We extend gratitude to the dedication and courage of the wildland firefighters, first responders, healthcare professionals and those in neighbouring communities that have opened their homes and hearts and are working tirelessly to ensure the safety and well-being of those affected by the wildfires.

To ACMG members in Jasper, please reach out to the ACMG directly if you're in need of help. 403.678.2885

07/22/2024

Yoho National Park

Parks Canada - Sunday, July 21, 2024 - 15:30

Here are some photos of the current conditions in the Lake O'Hara area.

The Odaray Glacier is mostly snow-covered, as is the approach to the Huber-Victoria Col. The Hungabee West Ridge is mostly snow-free, though some lingering patches may still produce rockfall, and the Opabin Glacier remains snow-covered.

Visitor Safety

Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks

Read More ACMG

Here are some photos of the current conditions in the Lake O'Hara area. The Odaray Glacier is mostly snow-covered, as is the approach to the Huber-Victoria Col. The Hungabee West Ridge is mostly snow-free, though some lingering patches may still produce rockfall, and the Opabin Glacier remains snow-...

07/20/2024

Waddington -Bravo Glacier Route

Ian Welsted - Saturday, July 20, 2024 - 10:00

Waddington from Rainy K**b via Bravo Glacier route, July 15th to 19th. We were aided in our ascent by a party of two Scottish (via Squamish) climbers Ralph and Tim, who broke trail to the Cauldron through serac and avy debris, crossing a fair few thinly bridged crevasses.

Travel from above the Spearman headwall to the summit plateau was smooth, the preceding week's very hot temperatures having stabilized the big slopes, with no natural avalanche activity observed on this part of the route, save for surface wet sluffing on the descent.

The summit tower was quite dry with hands on rock climbing up to the couloir to the top. We did short rappels through the steep middle chimney in order to avoid stuck ropes, a common occurrence judging by the collection of old ropes in this section.

We suspect that the large crevasses on the lower Bravo to the Cauldron will be quickly opening up with continued very temperatures and sopping wet snow after 9am on these south facing slopes.

I have to mention that Pete did an amazing job a year after open heart surgery, and that it was a pleasure to visit BC's highest point five years after my first chance to be there. Also of note was seeing the Airforce Sartechs parachuting onto the Tiedmann glacier, and that the other team cut their rock climbing plans across the valley short due to very high temperatures and the resultant large rockfall.

An amazing big mountain experience with perfect high pressure.

Read More ACMG

Waddington from Rainy K**b via Bravo Glacier route, July 15th to 19th. We were aided in our ascent by a party of two Scottish (via Squamish) climbers Ralph and Tim, who broke trail to the Cauldron through serac and avy debris, crossing a fair few thinly bridged crevasses. Travel from above the Spear...