04/02/2025
Here it comes...our choice for the number one ski descent experience in the Alps. We are back in France and above Chamonix. This one demands more ink than the other runs on the list. It’s the famous Vallee Blanche descent. You will talk about this experience for the season…for years…forever... Because the 20km long descent is more like a journey among four continents. Here’s why.
As you ride the second cable car up to the top, it transfers into an elevator, hoisting you up almost vertically to the station. The peak itself looks more like the Kennedy Space Center, with a Saturn style rocket memorial on top. Inside there is a museum, an elevator taking you to a higher look-out, a restaurant and a souvenir shop. Welcome to Alpine Disneyland. Welcome to snowed-in Florida. Welcome to North America. You won’t want to stay here too long, however, since the air is really thin at 3800m and you are more than anxious to get the first section of the run behind you. If you have a fear of heights, just take some pictures and take the cable car back down. Because, if you have a fear of heights, you are in for the scare of your life.
Next stop is Asia and the Himalayas. Welcome to Everest, welcome to the Hillary Step. The difference: in Nepal, you have to climb it to reach the summit. In France, you have to descend it to reach the snow. In both cases, it's a place you won't want to hang out for long. In some places no wider than a chair, with up to 70 degrees of slope angle, you have no margin for error. Lean too far left and you end up back at the middle station-dead-a sheer drop. Too far right and the rocks can cause major injury. You may not need a local guide to ski down, but the guide is definitely recommended for the snow staircase hike down. Crampons also highly recommended.
Once on the snow, the fun begins. The first section is easy, as long as the visibility is good. There are crevasses to consider as well. That is another reason hire a guide - he carries a rope. The classical route follows the Hellbronner Cable Car bringing skiers from Courmayeur up. The steeper variant leads more directly down and into a huge glacier outcropping. The run to the Ice Lake is a true joy, with the most amazing alpine natural views you can imagine. The is the European Alps at their finest. After an hour or so, you have dropped to about 2100meters and reach the Ice Lake (Mer du Glace). This is a 2 km. long flat ice covered surface that is perfect for taking a break and rejuvenating with your group. Enjoy the respite because ignorance is bliss. The worst is yet to come.
As the descent narrows, you finally end up at the bottom of a gully. The valley walls are so narrow and steep that you think, “OMG, how did I miss the route and OMG, where am I?” The good news is that you are not lost. The good news is that there is a mountain hut (the Rochers de Mottes at 1638m) only 200 meters away. The bad news- these are vertical meters. The bad news- you may even have to hike through an avalance to reach it. Welcome to Africa and Kilimanjaro, because this is pretty close to what it is like climbing up to the glacier summit there. But, not really: because there are no sherpas here to carry your gear.
After you somehow reach the hut, (there is no Plan B), you will savor the best beverage you have ever tasted. Time for some chagrining and bad jokes. From here, Chamonix lingers in the distance, but first you have one more challenge that is as dangerous as anything you have done so far.
We call it the Olympic Bobsled Run, because it consists of a series of switchbacks that are iced over and banked up to 70 degrees. Either commit or crash. Actually, once you get the hang of it, it’s kind of cool to accelerate through the turns. Trouble is, each curve pushes the envelope and is often followed by “ironing board” narrow run-outs that drop off 20 to 30 meters with, of course, no restraints.
After this almost never ending hairpin speed course, you finally arrive in the village. From here, you take off your skis, thank the snow Gods that you have arrived, and gaze up to the top station. Tired, maybe even exhausted, happy, maybe even ecstatic, confident, but most of all just lucky. One run, totally ungroomed, with almost 3000vertical meters. This one is worth telling your kids and grandchildren! You have just seen, and skied, 4 continents in less than 5 hours.
Did we omit one of your favourites? Some friends will be disappointed that the Dolomites didn’t make the list. Send us your comments and suggestions. We welcome your feedback.