27/04/2024
Again - this is what is REALLY happening here!!!
Let's talk about the protests.
You might have seen on the British morning news, reports of protests in the Canary Islands "against tourism". Here's the truth from on the ground here in Lanzarote from a long term British immigrant through consultation with Canarian friends. Put simply, it's basically the Cornwall problem but in smaller places, with less income and more sun. Let us explain why you shouldn't be concerned and what the media gets wonky...
Firstly, let's get something straight. I'll be joining those protests (which will take place on the 20th of April across many islands including Lanzarote). The event will be safe and there is no reason not to visit and enjoy your break during this time. Standing up to the government and hotel-chain-industry to protect the natural environment is very much in the DNA of Lanzarote. Ever since Cesar Manrique encouraged limited development in synergy with nature, we've frowned on the idea of concrete paving over coves and timeless plateaus. He stood in front of the construction machines too and we always will when the architects get it wrong. You'd want us to but let me explain why that is and why it isn't about you and your well earned vacation.
It's true that the wages in the Canary Islands are very low. On average, they are the second lowest in all Spanish territory. Around 1500 Euros a month to be precise. Just like "back home" the rising cost of living had already made that figure tough to live on but that coupled with the influx of AirBnb and second home ownership makes renting almost impossible for many. It's frequently the case that people who work even the most societally critical jobs (healthcare, teaching and even government) will need to share basic accommodation or even rough it. Yes, we know of people in those key positions living in housing without services, simply to get by. We also know that this isn't in any way, YOUR FAULT. Nobody blames the visitor, we blame the government.
There has been a lack of affordable or social housing for the last 20 years here. Too many hotels were allowed to go up before 2008 and far too many were allowed to remain in a half-finished state when regulations tightened. This left less physical space for housing and the same basic land crisis you see all over the world where commercial and lifestyle desires clash. Despite this, we want to work and here on Lanzarote at least, for many of us, this means we come for the jobs in tourism and leisure. We certainly don't want those to go away or be harder to get. But we have to live somewhere.
What the islanders are calling for in the most part is the same as those living in Cornwall or Devon might be. Some regulation of access to housing and a wage that allows us to have our room bedroom and access to water, power and even a car to get us to work. Seems easy on paper but it means adopting new regulations on the use of houses for short-stay tourism (now coming) and a deep hard look at where the money from tourism is being spent. Lanzarote is not too crowded but the week day commute on Tenerife and Gran Canaria for example has become tedious with failing roads and blocked highways. Remember, those workers cannot live in the resorts. It's just too expensive.
There has been graffiti on other islands pointing out this issue. Not so much here but we kinda get it. Still, that's a small group of young workers who see that their lives and lifestyle are no longer compatible with those of their parents or grand-parents. People who have lived here for generations. Not everyone works in tourism, my village for example is a farming community. We've been made incredibly welcome as Brits but we support their culture rather than replace it. We plant alongside them, so to speak. To be clear, we have never, not even for on day, felt unwelcome in any part of Lanzarote over many years and few would be able to guess if we live here or are visitors for the week until we sit down to chat.
Those in charge here know that tourism is important, welcome and the source of our gold. "Whoever comes to enjoy, to spend a few days and leave their money in the Canary Islands does not have to be rebuked," said the president, Fernando Clavijo. Everyone agrees with that. We are an island with friends from many places. Perhaps here though the sentiment that something ought to be done was heightened by reports this year (the biggest year for decades in Lanza tourism) of people disrespecting the national park by sliding down the lava and trampling the untouched land. It's only those we're not so keen on because those inherited treasures are fragile and can never be replaced.
To really understand the protest, you need to hear them. "This is not against tourism (...), what they are asking is that no more be built." said biologist and filmmaker Felipe Ravina in our local press today. I think we all agree with that. The size of some of the newest hotels being finished here is incredible. We doubt the beach is large enough for those visitors to actually enjoy and the tourbuses will be waiting in queues. Already we feel for some people when the line for taxis gets long. We often ask if people want to share our car to relieve it. If you follow this page you will have seen my recent photo of the one hour wait to access Timanfaya and you'll get the idea.
So, you see, it's really not about visitors. It's not about shooting ourselves in the foot. Just because we're remote we're not daft. Nobody here wants to remove tourism or for you to have any interruption to your vacation. Quite the opposite. We want everyone to be able to enjoy the landscape for generations to come. And we want you to be able to get to your hotel without delays and enjoy that pool without water restrictions or the power going down. Those things happen with more and more frequency these days. As they do, all over the world. Imagine if Padstow had our weather, month in, month out. Or if the wages in the Cotswolds were such that rent was 200% of your income. Ok, that latter concept is probably also true but you get the idea.
I wasn't going to write this post. I thought long and hard about doing so. Our page is an honest one and we knew that if we posted anything at all, we'd see frustrating responses such as "well we won't come" and "you need our money". As a sensitive chap, I know those will annoy me because they will show me that they've read only the headline. We do want you here, we all rely on money. We also love our island and like you, have chosen to be here. It would be VERY MUCH easier on our wallet to relocate to the mainland but Lanza is home. We just need to point out to our government (here and in Madrid) that the rules on construction need amending and incomes adapting. Important changes that help us reach that good balance. We've done the same for decades, protesting to protect the zen. When have you known a Canarian heart to be quiet? No, we are passionate and virile. It shows in our love.
So will you be safe amongst protests? Yes, for sure. You probably won't actually notice them happen. This isn't a place where things get out of hand. At the core of the matter, that protest is not actually for you or at you. It's about the economy and trade. Industry and society. Philosophy and journalism. So don't worry about it but if you fancy it, just tip your waiter a little bit on the 20th of this month. As you probably do every day. The conversation is common but it's kind to be kind.
Love Lanza. x
