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Paris History of our Streets, Paris (2025)

17/06/2025

La Tondue de Chartres
The Shaved Woman of Chartres
Place Jean Moulin Chartres

Long ago I came across these photos taken by American photojournalist Robert Capa on August 16, 1944 and as a mother, they shook me. I made a mental note to find this exact spot inn Chartres one day, and on Christmas Eve in 2021 I did.

What you see here is a French woman paraded through the streets of Chartres by a policeman and surrounded by jeering crowds. A small baby is clutched in her arms. But there is more to the story..

What’s happening? This was 23 year old Simone Touseau, known as a “horizontal collaborator”; a woman who betrayed her country and her people by not only assisting the Germans when they occupied France, but having a relationship with one of them.
Simone’s daughter Catherine, who was three months in this photo- was the result of that relationship.

After the liberation of France in August 1044, an “Épuration Sauvage” (Wild Purge) swept the country, and the women accused of collaborating with the enemy during the war were publicly humiliated by having their heads shaved in the presence of their fellow compatriots, who understandably sought revenge and justice against these traitors.

Simone and 10 other woman (including her own mother Germaine, see photos) were shaved here at the préfecture of Chartres before being accompanied to their homes, where they were then arrested and brought to trial. If you look closely at the last photo, you will see that Simone suffered an extra punishment. Can you identify it?

At first glance, you might pity this woman, she fell in love with the enemy and the result was an innocent child. What do we really know of her actions, can we judge people so easily during times of war when “survival” has no loyalty?

Well unfortunately for Simone, her actions were more sinister.

Along with her family, she was a well known N**i sympathiser in Chartres. She didn’t just sleep with the enemy, she denounced five neighbors (for listening to English Radio) who were deported.

Only two of them survived.

Simone died a depressed alcoholic at age 44 in Saint Arnoult; her German lover was killed at the Eastern front in 1944. Her daughter Catherine is apparently still alive, and doesn't speak of her mother or her past. She destroyed all the correspondences of her parents years ago.

Although the answer is even more unsettling than these photos, (look to see how happy the surrounding crowds seem) I wonder if it justifies this treatment? And do we even know the whole story? I really find moments like this fascinating because it makes you think; is this really justice? Or revenge?

What I would do? Could I stand by and watch someone be treated this way; even if they have done horrific things?

What would YOU do?

10/06/2025

The Impasse Salembrière
4 bis, rue Saint-Séverin Paris 75005

In the shadowy backstreets of the 5th arrondissement, just a croissant’s throw from the Sorbonne and Notre-Dame, lies one of Paris’s most elusive secrets: the Impasse Salembrière. It’s not just an alley. It’s an experience — about 37 meters long and barely wide enough for a baguette and a mime to pass side by side.

You’ll have to take my word for it though since the impasse is currently locked off.

Looking at this long forgotten street really gives you an idea of what life was like in medieval Paris before urban planner Eugene Haussmann levelled most of these narrow passage ways; giving light, literally, to brand new, wide boulevards.

There’s not much to say about this impasse, nothing historically relevant happened here. (That we know of!) But it has somehow withstood the test of time at the ripe old age of 700!

07/06/2025

2 rue Roi de Sicile, Paris 75004
The Death of the Princess of Lamballe
Part 2 of 2

*Trigger Warning for those sensitive to violence and murder*
What happened after the Princess de Lambelle was declared guilty of commiting treason is not exactly known and there are many variations.

The 42 year old Princess was allegedly dragged into the courtyard of the court and various witness accounts described her as r***d, tortured, disemboweled, and beaten to death.

It was even claimed that her body was horrifically mutilated. Others said she was given an immediate blow to the head that made her unconscious or even a merciful blade plunged directly through her heart.

What we do know, is that at some point her head was cut off, stuck on a pike, and paraded through the Paris streets to the Temple Prison where the Queen was held.

The mob wanted the Queen to kiss the lips of her dear friend and rumored le***an lover. The Queen did not see this horrific scene, but when her guards explained the cause of commotion outside her window; the Queen allegedly fainted.

The stories around her death are numerous, and horrific to say the least. Was her head really brought to a hairdresser to be styled during its route to the Queen? Did someone really cut off locks of her hair to sell them? Was a secret message written by Lamballe to the Queen hours before her death hidden in her hair?

There doesn’t seem to be much certainty. Even her body was never officially accounted for.

Did she die a martre?
Or as an over-privileged member of the royal court?

I think we all can agree, that as far as friendships with royals go, the higher up you are, the further you have to fall…

06/06/2025

D-Day Anniversary

Today is the 81st anniversary of D-Day and I wanted to share a picture of my grandfather Russel Walesh, who was drafted into the Navy during WWII as a senior in high school and arrived on Utah beach the day after D-Day.

I don’t have any connections to France like genealogy or Francophiles in my family that sparked a love for this country- but I do have this unexplainably special connection knowing my grandfather was here for the aftermath of this historic battle that still unites Americans and the French decades later.

I was one of the first in my family to visit these beaches in 2013 and 2 years ago I got to take my dad, who knows more about WWII than anyone I know. Throughout my whole life, this guy put up with family vacations to Disney and water parks always saying his dream vacation destination was to visit the WWII sites and Normandy beaches. It was so special to share that experience with him.

My grandpa didn’t talk much about his WWII experiences, but he did write a letter detailing this time later in life to one of his daughters (he had 14 children, one of which is my dad) saying briefly that he “saw action, dead Americans, Germans, all kids and a few old men”

I think about that sentence a lot, so matter of fact and without unnecessary detail- but very powerful considering he describes these dead soldiers not as enemies, but as nothing more than kids- when he was still a kid himself.

He died when I was still very young and I often wonder what he thought about France during his time here.

05/06/2025

2 rue Roi de Sicile, Paris 75004
The Death of the Princess of Lamballe
Part 1 of 2

This is a gruesome one folks, so if you are triggered by murder and gore, I suggest you refrain from continuing.
You still with me?
Ok, that’s morbid, but glad you’re following!

We all know Parisians can get a little *feisty* during the heat of the moment, and this has never been more true than during the French Revolution.

If you think the history of the 40,000ish victims of the guillotine is dark, wait until you hear about the death of Queen Marie Antoinette’s friend, the Princess of Lamballe, Marie-Louise Thérèse.

Described as delicate and sweet, if a bit dim-witted- she first befriended Marie Antoinette in 1770 and eventually became head of the Queen’s household staff.

When the Revolution began, MA’s other BFF, the Duchesse de Polignac took off running but the Princess remained steadfast by Marie Antoinette’s side until August of 1792 when she was forced by revolutionaries to stand trial in a makeshift courtroom near the prison she was put in.

After denying the treasonous crimes she was accused of (how’s that for a double standard? Treason against your king or country?) the court then demanded she swear fealty to liberty and equality as well as pledge hatred towards the royal family.

The meek and timid Princess boldly responded “I can get behind liberty and equality no problem, but if I’m being honest with you the Queen still is and always will be my home girl. Besides, we all know I have no hope of walking out here alive, so IDAF if you kill me now or find a reason to do it later.” (My modern interpretation)

Judgments were made as either “Vive la nation!” in which the prisoner was freed, or “Take the prisoner away!” which was, well… immediate death by the mob waiting in the courtyard of the prison.

Unlike several other members of the royal staff who were freed, an example was to be made of the Princess of Lamballe, and upon the words “Take Madame Away!”, her fate was sealed.

Follow .history.of.our.streets for part two tomorrow ✨

04/06/2025

The Oldest (French) Church in America
Marquette University
Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA

Wouldn’t you be surprised to know that a piece of medieval France is residing in Milwaukee, Wisconsin?

Located in the heart of Marquette University’s campus is the 15th century Joan of Arc Chapel.
Named after France’s very own Warrior Princess and Patron Saint, legend has it that Joan herself visited this chapel to pray before battle.
In fact, Marquette claims that it is the “oldest structure in the western hemisphere still being used for its original purpose,” effectively making it the oldest chapel, maybe even building, in the United States.
So what the hell is a 500+ year old French chapel doing in Midwest America you may ask? It’s an interesting story..

Originally known as the Chapel de St. Martin de Seysseu and located in the Rhone Valley village of Chasse; this small place of worship was built in 1420 and served the village for centuries before falling into disrepair during the French Revolution.

In the 1920’s, French architect and historian Jacques Couelle took an interest in the chapel, declaring it “absolutely unique in its genre” and the village sold it to him with hopes he would restore it.

And restored it was, but probably not as Chasse imagined.. The chapel was completely dismantled (with each stone marked to identify the top and bottom) and shipped to the good ole USA and the Long Island home of Gertrude Hill Gavin, an American railroad heiress who bought the chapel from Couelle.

Now Gerty was a bit of a French history aficionado, and this wasn’t her first Transatlantic Historical French Building Shipment rodeo.

She already had an entire renaissance era chateau sent over a few years prior. For anyone feeling a little butthurt about this piece of French history residing in the land of light beer, canibal killer Jeffrey Dahmer, and the Milwaukee Brewers- France would create a law preventing the export of such historical buildings, even those that aren’t being taken care of, not long after.

In 1933, Gerty even got written permission from Pope Pius XI to hold mass here.
When she died in 1961, the entire property was sold to Marc Rojtman. Unfortunately for him, a massive fire destroyed the castle just 5 days prior to moving in, with only the chapel being untouched. Seeking a new home for his beloved chapel, the Rojtman’s bequeathed it to the catholic Marquette University, writing to resident Pastor Edward J. O’Donnell “I am sure you fully understand that this chapel means far more to me than any donation I have ever made and transcends by far any mere monetary value.”

So off it went, once again taken apart stone by stone, and sent to Milwaukee, Wisconsin on a fleet of 18 wheelers in 1964. It took about two years for specialist architects and engineers to finish rebuilding it (aside from a few nips and tucks to expand the nave, everything is original except for the stain glass windows, which were modeled after those at Saint Chappelle in Paris) and the chapel was opened and dedicated May 26, 1966.

As incredible as this building might seem, the real treasure is inside.

Behind the altar is a 13th century slab of stone known as the Joan of Arc Stone. Legend has it that after Joan prayed to a statue of the Virgin Mary, she knelt down and touched and kissed this stone which the virgin stood on. Since then, this stone has a noticeably colder touch to it than surrounding stones.

Although the chapel was closed when I visited it, mass is still regularly held here and tours are available.

28/05/2025

What do Star Wars and the Guillotine have in common?

Star Wars may take place in a galaxy far, far away, but the guillotine is more modern than you might think!

Did you know that the last person to be guillotined in France was in 1977, the same year Star Wars was released?

The death penalty was abolished in France in 1981, but that was too late for Hamida Djandoubi, who was executed by beheading for the murder of 21 year old Élisabeth Bousquet.

When it comes to “Rebellion VS Tyranny” whether it’s a lightsaber or a falling blade—both can serve justice or oppression, depending on who controls them.

And of course, nothing says “galactic adventure” quite like a beheading device from 18th-century France!

26/05/2025

Oldest Known Graffiti in Paris
11 Place des Vosges 75004

Today I’m taking you to the Marais and the picturesque Place des Vosges. The oldest square in Paris, this picturesque park was built in the early 1600’s by King Henry IV on the site of an old palace and was originally called the Place Royale until the French Revolution.
This is where all the WHOS WHO of French aristocracy lived and gathered, where duels used to be fought in the park, and even the location of the engagement party of Louis XIII and Anna of Austria was held here.

What is remarkable about the square are the original 36 luxurious residences that surround it, all built around 1610 and constructed with the same brick exteriors (or facades if you want to be fancy).

The ground floor is one giant square covered arcade with arched ceilings and if you are lucky, you can come to listen to opera singers belt out acoustically magic arm hair raising tunes in exchange for your pocket change.

Anyways, to my historical gem! There isn’t much background to give here, but on a stone pillar at number 11, you can find the oldest verified graffiti in Paris.
Sure there is probably older graffiti, Paris is over 2,000 years old, but nothing earlier that can be dated and given ownership.

Carved by Nicolas Restif, it simply reads Hit Up Nicolas for a Good Ti… err I mean 1764 NICOLAS. (Not sure how he accomplished this, I can’t write this well with a pen and paper, can’t imagine carving this in stone)
Nicolas was a Burgundy born writer and printer who was known to go for late night walks to think and clear his head.

Like an 18th century Banksy, Nicolas became known as the Le Griffon (the scratcher or scribbler) because he had a habit of tagging various buildings with his name and the year during his midnight strolls.

This is the only one that survives today.

21/05/2025

The Tomb of Samson : Part Deux

On a moral level, regardless of his opinion of guilt or innocence of the victim before him, Charles had a duty and at the risk of shame to his family name- was required to do as he was commanded.

And somewhat surprisingly, he approved of the guillotine as the method of ex*****on for ALL (equality was a key factor in the French revolution, with the king being killed just as his subjects were. Normally, those of higher standing were afforded a quicker, cleaner death by sword) citing that not only was it more humane, it was also more efficient and less physically demanding for the ex*****oner, who even if highly skilled, could have his bad days and ah, miss his mark.
It probably didn’t help his work-life relationship when his eldest son and heir Gabriel, slipped off a scaffold and died in 1790 while holding a severed head after he had assisted his father in an ex*****on.

There are quite a few interpretations regarding the morning of January 21, 1793 when Charles Henri executed Louis XVI.

Apparently while Charles Henri was not a supporter of the monarchy, he was reluctant to kill the King, who was regarded at that time as chosen by God himself. One can only imagine the pressures he was under being forced to chose between ending the line of Bourbon monarchs and the blood thirsty new government of the French Revolution.

Some say that King Louis XVI was executed swiftly and painlessly. Others say that the guillotine merely severed the back of his head and jaw and he screamed a horrible cry just before his head was held aloft by an ex*****oner’s assistant, who cried out “Vive la Revolution!”
According to Charles Henri himself, King Louis XVI died an honorable and brave death, even pardoning Sanson for shedding his innocent blood.
There was a moment of solidarity between the two when it was made clear to Louis XVI that his hands were to be bound with rope.

Aghast at being treated like a lowly criminal, the former King cried "Never!". Sanson offered him an alternative, "A handkerchief Sire".

Perhaps touched upon hearing his old title and shown this small respect by the man soon to be responsible for ending his life, the King gave in and bravely offered his wrists.

What happened to Charles Henri after this pivotal moment in his career?

Well he retired as ex*****oner not long after, and spent the rest of his days playing the violin, growing medicinal herbs in his garden, and tracking pokémon on his Iphone X. He died on July 4, 1806 and was buried with his ancestors in a small plot in the Montmartre cemetery, which can be visited today.

18/05/2025

The Tomb of Sanson
That Guy who Killed King Louis XVI
Montmartre Cemetery

Some professions run in families. Lawyers, Doctors, Dentists.. and ex*****oners?

La famille Sanson had blood in their, well.. blood.

During 6 generations and nearly 200 years, each eldest Sanson male continued the family legacy in the trade of death, beginning with Charles Sanson, who was dubbed Original Gansta Executioner of Paris in 1684- until Henry Clément Sanson who served as the last Sanson bourreau (French for ex*****oner) until 1847.
The “Great Sanson”, Charles Henri Sanson is the most well known, as the first to use the guillotine and undoubtedly for his role in beheading King Louis XVI during the French Revolution on January 21, 1793 at what today is known as Place de la Concorde.

So who was the man who killed a King? At first glance, the role of ex*****oner may seem to be an evil one, and history certainly paints Charles Henri with a red (maybe crimson?) marker.

But in reality, this man’s life was an interesting one. Despite killing a total of 2,918 people during his career, when asked if he slept well at night, he responded, “if emperors, kings, and dictators can sleep well at night, why can’t an ex*****oner?”
The eldest son of 16 children, Charles Henri took over the role of his father, Charles Jean Baptiste Sanson, in 1778 after several years apprenticing.

However he didn’t have any desire to hold this gruesome title, and in fact had a strong aversion to it. Spending his early childhood at a private school in Rouen, he had to leave when his peers discovered his father’s ghastly profession.
He was also forced to leave his beloved medical school training as his father became progressively weakened from his line of work.
True story, this was a tough job that required a certain.. finesse.

So what’s it like to be THAT GUY responsible for killing a king?
Stay tuned!

11/05/2025

The First Captured Image of Movement
Quai de Bourbon Paris 75004

I don’t know about anyone else, but when I see an old photograph taken in Paris, one of my first thoughts is ‘Where was this taken’ and ‘Can I see this same image through my camera lens today?’.

Maybe it’s part of my fascination with the idea that I am walking in the same steps of someone from the past, who although may be long gone- can still share with me this same setting (more or less) some 170 years later?

I’m obsessed with the concept of “FIRSTS”, and I stumbled upon this photo (or Daguerreotype if you want to be precise) taken around 1851 by French photographer and artist Charles N***e, who was noted for his preference of photographing the working class. (Hell yeah! A photographer of the PEOPLE!)

Remarkably, this is considered THE FIRST captured image of movement. These three youngsters are chimney sweeps, walking along the Quai de Bourbon on the northern side of ile Saint Louis.

I immediately analyzed this photo, looking for clues to give its precise setting today. The paving on the wall has obviously been replaced. (But you know damn well I would have sought out these exact crevices had it not been)
You can’t see much definition of the buildings in the background, located on the opposite Quai des Célestins, plus that area was largely leveled in the mid 1900’s.

I looked for more info on the photograph and discovered that Charles had a workshop on the Quai, at number 21. Presuming he took this photo not far from his workshop, this is the closest image I could come up with that did not contain trees.
TAH-DAH!
Long before child labor laws, you can imagine these boys working under these hazardous conditions likely missed out on a childhood we take for granted today.

I feel somewhat comforted that even if they weren’t aware in that moment of their participation in this FIRST, their suffering counted for something and here they are remembered in 2025.

22/03/2025

The Oldest Tree in Paris
Square Viviani Paris 75005

Is it just me or does anyone else find the cherry blossom tree hype overrated this time of year?

I’m no dendrophile (yes I googled scientific name for a tree lover) but I do have a passion for history, so allow me to shed some light on the oldest “documented” tree in Paris, found a stone’s throw from Notre Dame in one of my favorite Paris parks, Square Viviani.

First of all, this Locust (Robinier in French) tree is actually American by birth. It was brought over by King Henry IV’s botanist and pharmacist Jean Robin from the Appalachians and planted here in 1601.

Why here? Well there was a small herbal garden belonging to the Faculté de Médecine, which was located right around the corner. The plants grown here were used as ingredients for medieval medicinal remedies. The garden closed in 1637 and Jean Robin upgraded his office to what would eventually become the Jardin des Plantes.

The tree is looking a bit worse for wear in recent years, as you can see by the giant crutch holding it up. There is also a barrier around it so you can’t get too close.

This tree holds a special place in my memories. When I first arrived in Paris in 2013 I had a fling with a guy who lived in a literal cave apartment on Rue Saint Julien le Pauvre and I recall a lovely homeless man who made his “home” underneath this tree nightly.
I spoke with him a few times and we’d joke that he had the grandest bed in all of Paris with the best view of Notre Dame. The only issue were his obnoxious roommates- the RATS!

Paris History of our Streets

17/06/2025

10/06/2025

07/06/2025

06/06/2025

05/06/2025

04/06/2025

28/05/2025

26/05/2025

21/05/2025

18/05/2025

11/05/2025

22/03/2025

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