There and Back Again Mountaineering

There and Back Again Mountaineering Climbing, mountaineering, summer and winter hill skills, mountain biking. Guiding, instruction and technical advice.

Inspirational wee lad!
17/05/2018

Inspirational wee lad!

No. 18: 'I have been climbing since I could walk. I think there is something exciting about being up high: the different view, the feeling of balance. If I walk along a street I will always be trying to walk on a wall instead - even on the kerb there is an edge of excitement.

My climbing isn’t restricted to any one form. I love climbing trees, fences, walls, sand dunes, rocks, sofas, bannisters, window ledges. They lost me at nursery once because I had climbed up a tree - 25ft in the air - and was looking at what was going on below. All the other children went inside but I stayed on my perch, waving at the teachers. I think they were scared. I wasn’t.

My mum likes to tell a story of when I was eighteen months old. We went to the beach and were scrambling around the rock pools and when she looked up I was half-way up the cliff and she thought, 'I better get a rope on him.'

I was three when I first went to an indoor wall with my older brother George. I enjoyed swinging around the boulders. I was about 5 when I overtook my brother.

I realised that I had to slow down if I was going to be a good climber. I needed to use my feet and to learn some techniques. Climbing became not just about how high I could go, but how difficult a route I could get up. I started to get into competition climbing. I have been to the YCS final twice now. It is so much fun to climb with lots of other kids who are really good climbers. The best bit is when the competition has ended and we run around trying all the problems. I like being with kids like me who are brave and strong and love to climb.

I want to climb all my life. My brother and I are getting a van when we are older and will travel around climbing. My mum taught us to love the outdoors, so she will be with us wherever we go. When I climb I don’t think about anything else. When my arms ache and my fingers are red I like to eat fish and chips to fill me up after climbing.

A couple of years ago we visited the Old Man of Hoy. A big tower in the sky! We read that the youngest person to climb it was 10 years old. An idea was formed, 'Wouldn’t it be brilliant to be the youngest person to climb it?' In June I am going to climb it and become the youngest person to do so. I am 8. I am raising sponsorship money for Climbers Against Cancer. My mum has cancer and I would love a cure to be found.' - Edward Mills

Absolutely stunning day! I had the pleasure of working for Craggan Outdoors this afternoon, climbing at Huntlys Cave wit...
12/05/2018

Absolutely stunning day! I had the pleasure of working for Craggan Outdoors this afternoon, climbing at Huntlys Cave with Oli and Paul, and very capably assisted by Katie, one of their seasonal instructors.

A wee bit of safety info for climbing at Cummingston.
01/05/2018

A wee bit of safety info for climbing at Cummingston.

18/12/2017

Constantly changing weather factors, from temperature and snowfall to wind speed and direction, can affect the strength and stability of the snowpack. So it’s vital to keep a close watch on conditions during the season – especially throughout any mountain excursions.

Snow in the ski carpark!
05/11/2017

Snow in the ski carpark!

Weather Update; Sunday 5th Novemeber
Top Station Weather. Wind from the North West at 35 mph and a temperature of -3.0C, with light snow showers. We have a dusting of snow down to the Day Lodge level. The forecast for the coming week is looking pretty wintry and we will keep you all regularly updated.
Cheers
Ops 1 😉

29/10/2017

First autumnal snow fall this morning with dusting of ground snow, temps getting lower into next weekend with snow on the summits. Funicular Railway open with hill fog at the top at the moment. Ops2

24/08/2017

Ticks in the UK Want to help us to stop the tick and reduce the number of Lyme patients? Great! Preventing tick bites is all about education and good preparation. As such, sharing this infographic with your family, friends and colleagues through social media will help us from preventing them becomin...

22/03/2017

CANCELLATION OF END OF MONTH WINTER ML TRAINING AND ASSESSMENT COURSES DUE TO POOR CONDITIONS.

For those involved in the Winter Mountain Leader scheme – candidates, Providers and their staff, this winter season 2017 has been an endlessly challenging one, and not in a good way!
This season to date has been characterised by a rather diminished and often patchy snowpack, with frequent thaw/freeze cycles associated dramatic temperature fluctuations between the minimum and maximums. This consistent pattern has left the mountains with often poor snow cover; the ground at all elevations is not as frozen as it should be (in many areas not frozen at all). In effect this pattern, rather than supporting the building of late season winter conditions has slowly, and gradually degraded them. It’s been a relatively long time since we have faced such a “green” winter – 97/98 – with some “old hands” minding that winter oh too well…

This unpredictable and poor winter has been challenging for candidates seeking to undertake their Winter Mountain Leader this season as planned days on the hills have been frustrated by poor or often non-existent conditions on the hill. This has had a knock on effect for those seeking to gain more days to enable them to register on the Winter Mountain Leader scheme, as registration approvals are down so therefore are training course places delivered. For those with an assessment planned then it’s been tough getting out into the hills to practice and develop experience. Again this has affected Winter Mountain Leader assessments as assessment places delivered are also noted to be down.

For those working on the hill delivering Mountain Training Scotland Winter Mountain Leader courses it has meant a great deal of endless poring over all sorts of weather forecasts and late night ponderings regarding choosing appropriate venues. Winter Mountain Leader Providers and their staff have been using both long range computer modelling of weather (to check out the following week’s weather) to the more accurate short term forecasts, all in an effort to ensure that the Winter Mountain Leader course being run – whether it be training or assessment – remains a viable and authentic experience that adequately prepares/tests candidates for operating as Winter Mountain leaders in the harshest environments in the UK – the high winter mountains.

The key principle we follow when deciding as to whether or not we would run a Winter ML course is “you start it - you finish it”. What this means is when deciding to run a course we have to have full confidence that given the conditions and forecasted weather we can complete the course. This means no starting a course to “see what happens” with the risk of abandoning it part way through. Such a “see what happens” approach is not fair on candidates (and leaves them in a very difficult to reconcile place the following season). This means Providers starting a Winter ML course knowing full well that they will complete it, is better for our candidates as they can go into their course having the confidence that they will have a viable and authentic Winter Mountain Leader experience – be it training or assessment.

At the very start of this season, we realised very quickly we were facing a very unusual and challenging situation regarding conditions. To manage these unusual conditions and to facilitate this process whilst co-ordinating the efforts of all Mountain Training Scotland’s Winter Mountain Leader Providers, Course Directors and staff Mountain Training Scotland initiated an email chain (which contained every Provider, Course Director and many of the staff who work Winter MLs) to share our views, opinions, venues we have used, co-ordinate venues we were planning to use or wonder if we could use. This was to ensure that given limited options (often during the expedition phase of a course) that we did not all walk into the same space at the same time trying to do the same things, and, if we had to make decisions regarding cancelling courses we could ensure that every Provider operating in Scotland had exhausted all possible options including travelling to other more viable venues.

This email chain has worked very well at coordinating efforts in an easy to share way, In addition, behind the scenes, there have been numerous and regular phone calls between Course Directors and Mountain Training Scotland to reassure and ensure we are continuing to uphold the integrity of the Winter Mountain Leader scheme. This coordination has been essential to enable us, despite the often sparse conditions, to provide viable authentic courses that prepare and test Winter ML candidates for the rigours of leading groups in the mountains in winter conditions. And so far, to date, we have succeeded.
Astronomical spring in the Northern Hemisphere began on Monday, March 20. This keystone event in the winter calendar coincided with a weather forecast for next week (we’d first spotted this being a possible issue ten days ago as some weather models were indicating this warm period) indicating warmer than normal temperatures. Given the current poor state of the prevailing winter conditions, and this rather disheartening weather forecast, our confidence, as a seasoned group of Winter ML Providers, was low that we would be able to run viable and authentic Winter Mountain leader training and assessment courses next week.

In the past 48 hours, after a great deal of discussion amongst the Providers and Course Directors involved in these courses; including checking and double checking the weather forecasts, and taking notice of the current conditions on the hill; the tough decision was taken that we could not, in all conscience, start these courses knowing full well we could neither deliver viable and authentic training/assessments, nor could we guarantee that by next week anything approaching winter conditions, as such, would still exist. In effect we could not guarantee a viable and authentic Winter Mountain Leader experience, nor could we guarantee we could complete the week. Therefore the Winter Mountain Leader training and assessment courses programed for next week have been cancelled. Providers have been contacting all those who have been booked onto their courses directly to inform them of this tough decision. NOTE: If you have questions or queries please contact the Provider you have booked your training/assessment with directly.

In effect as there are no other Winter Mountain Leader courses programmed for this season, and given the current dire conditions there is little likelihood of any useful winter to run such courses this brings to a somewhat premature end to Winter Mountain Leader training and assessment courses for 2017.
For those considering re-assessments then individual Providers, we have agreed, can be more opportunistic in programming these – if conditions on the day are appropriate to the syllabus sections to be re-assessed.

Looking ahead to next season Winter Mountain Leader Providers are aware that there will be an increased demand for Winter Mountain Leader course places so are already starting to plan accordingly. So for all you candidates who unfortunately will now be unable to complete your Winter ML training, or undertake your assessment, this season there will be increased provision on courses next year to deal with those from this season plus manage the demand for the next cadre of candidates coming through in 2017.

Now if anyone knows any good tricks to ensure next winter season is more consistent weather-wise please get in touch! Mountain Training Scotland will prepare and release a report on this season’s Winter Mountain leader activities later in April.
For now on behalf of all our Providers, Course Directors and staff Mountain Training Scotland would like to thank all our candidates for their continued forbearance.

In addition Mountain Training Scotland would like to take this opportunity to thank all our Providers, Course Directors and staff for their co-operation, support and outstanding professionalism in ensuring that the Winter Mountain Leader courses they have delivered were both first class and authentic – no mean feat considering the very challenging nature of the conditions they have operated in this season. It is entirely down to their efforts, and the superb support and enthusiasm of our candidates that the integrity of the Winter Mountain Leader scheme has been both protected and enhanced.

George McEwan
MTS Executive Officer

Interesting day. Good to touch base with folk before winter.
13/11/2016

Interesting day. Good to touch base with folk before winter.

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Aviemore

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