20/11/2024
It was a cold, wet morning in North Wales when I gathered my small group of tour members around me. The rain had softened the ground underfoot, and the low-hanging mist blurred the line between earth and sky. Despite the weather, our spirits were high. I clapped my hands together and grinned at the cluster of eager faces peering at me through rain-spattered hoods and hats.
“We’re not here for the weather,” I said, my voice rising above the distant bleat of sheep and the soft patter of drizzle. I turned and pointed toward the south, where the Carneddau Mountains loomed dark and rugged against the stormy skies. “We’re going up there.”
A ripple of excitement passed through the group, and a few exchanged glances that wavered between apprehension and anticipation. We were well-prepared, clad in waterproof jackets, sturdy boots, and thick layers. It was clear, though, that the real adventure lay ahead.
Our destination was Gareth Wyn Jones’s farm—a place as deeply connected to the land as the mountains themselves. Gareth, a local hill farmer and advocate for sustainable farming, had a reputation as a passionate, larger-than-life figure. His work had made him something of a local legend, but what truly drew us here were the wild horses of the Carneddau, a rare and ancient breed that had roamed these mountains for thousands of years.
As we arrived at the farmyard, the clang of gates and the bark of sheepdogs filled the air. A tall man in a waterproof jacket and well-worn wellies strode toward us with an infectious energy.
“Bore da!” boomed Gareth, his deep voice cutting through the rain as he approached. His boots thumped against the concrete, and he extended his hand in greeting.
I introduced our group, and Gareth greeted each of us with a firm handshake and a warm smile. Soon after, we divided into smaller groups to begin our ascent into the mountains. Half of our party climbed into a battered Land Rover, while the rest, including myself and my colleague Lorraine, squeezed into a Honda 4x4. Lorraine and I opted for the most adventurous perch of all—the flatbed sheep trailer hitched to the back.
With the roar of engines and the excited barks of sheepdogs, we began our climb.
Into the Heart of the Carneddau we went.
The vehicles lurched and clawed their way over the rough, uneven terrain. The “trail” we followed was barely more than a series of worn tracks etched into the hillside, winding upward through a landscape of mossy rocks and wind-blown grass. Every bump sent Lorraine and me sliding around the trailer, laughing despite the discomfort.
The sheepdogs, unfazed by the rain or the jostling vehicles, darted alongside us, their tongues lolling and their coats glistening with moisture. Occasionally, one would leap into the trailer, shaking itself vigorously before bounding off again, leaving us splattered and grinning.
After nearly an hour of slow, steady progress, we reached the summit.
As we climbed out of the vehicles, the view took our breath away. The peaks of the Carneddau stretched out around us, their jagged ridges softened by mist. To the west lay the dramatic landscape of Snowdonia National Park, its valleys and peaks shrouded in a patchwork of clouds. To the north, the Menai Strait shimmered in the weak morning light, and beyond it, the ancient island of Anglesey rose from the sea like a mythical land.
The only sounds were the sigh of the wind, the distant call of birds, and the occasional bleat of a sheep.
“This,” Gareth said, spreading his arms wide, “is my office.”
The wild horses were the reason we had made this journey. These remarkable animals, numbering fewer than 250, have roamed the Carneddau Mountains since the Bronze Age. Their lineage is ancient, and they are perfectly adapted to this harsh environment—small, hardy, and incredibly sure-footed.
Gareth explained that the horses were not entirely wild. Though they lived freely on the moorland, they were technically owned by the local farmers, who managed their grazing and monitored their health. It was a delicate balance, one that Gareth was passionate about preserving.
As we stood listening to Gareth’s tales of the horses and their history, movement on the horizon caught our attention.
A small herd of Carneddau ponies was approaching from the south. At first, they were little more than dark silhouettes against the misty landscape, their shapes merging with the shadows of the rocks and hills. But as they came closer, their forms grew distinct—the curve of their necks, the powerful muscles in their legs, the way their manes rippled in the wind.
Gareth held up a hand, signaling for silence.
We stood as still as statues, our breaths shallow and our eyes fixed on the horses. Slowly, cautiously, they approached, their hooves barely making a sound on the soft, damp ground.
They stopped about fifty yards away, their heads high and ears pricked forward. For a long moment, we simply watched them, awed by their beauty and grace.
“They’re curious,” Gareth whispered. “But cautious, too.”
The lead mare took a few tentative steps closer, her nostrils flaring as she tested the air. Behind her, a foal peeked out from behind its mother’s legs, its eyes wide and curious.
In that moment, words felt unnecessary. The sight of these ancient creatures, thriving in their wild home, was more powerful than anything we could have said.
Over the next few days, we immersed ourselves in Gareth’s world. We explored the hills on foot, learning about the flora and fauna that made this rugged landscape their home. We visited the farm, where Gareth’s family welcomed us with open arms and hearty meals of lamb stew and homemade bread.
Gareth’s passion for sustainable farming was evident in everything he did. He spoke of the challenges facing hill farmers in Wales—the unpredictable weather, the shrinking subsidies, the pressures of modern agriculture—and the importance of preserving traditional ways of life.
One afternoon, he took us to a secluded valley where the sheep were gathered for shearing. The air was filled with the sound of clippers and the bleating of sheep, and the scent of lanolin hung heavy in the air. Gareth’s skill was impressive; his movements were quick and precise, honed by years of experience.
“Farming’s not just a job,” he said, pausing to wipe his brow. “It’s a way of life. It’s who we are.”
On our final morning, we returned to the summit to bid farewell to the mountains and the horses. The weather had cleared slightly, and the sun broke through the clouds in patches, casting golden light over the moorland.
We spotted the herd again, grazing peacefully on a hillside. This time, they allowed us to get a little closer, their trust seemingly won after days of quiet observation.
As we stood there, watching the horses and taking in the vastness of the landscape, I felt a profound sense of connection—to the land, to the people who called it home, and to the timeless rhythm of life on the Carneddau.
“This place,” Gareth said, his voice quiet but filled with emotion, “it stays with you. Long after you’ve left, it stays with you.”
As we made our way back down the mountain, I knew he was right. The Carneddau had left its mark on all of us, etching its beauty and spirit into our hearts.
The journey to North Wales, the rugged peaks of the Carneddau, and the wild horses we encountered there would remain a treasured memory for everyone in our group. It was more than just a tour—it was a glimpse into a world where the past and present intertwined, where nature and humanity coexisted in harmony, and where the wild spirit of the land still thrived.