The London Ambler

The London Ambler Architectural walking tours bringing to life the many episodes, sagas and adventures of built and un I hope to join another walk soon.’ – Caro Stanleyl, London
(5)

Weaving unexpected and alternative routes through the city and tackling big architectural stories in an authoritative, yet accessible way, the London Ambler brings to life the many episodes, sagas and adventures of built and unbuilt London. With all walks devised and led by Mike Althorpe, an architectural historian, researcher and urban explorer with a passion for the greatest city on earth, The L

ondon Ambler is about mixing it up and exploring architecture with fresh eyes, new perspectives and sound footwear! FOLLOW ME

To find out about walks happening in 2016 check out the links below, follow me online or talk to me direct via email – all tours are repeated at regular intervals and available for private or group booking. Twitter
Instagram
Email [email protected]

TESTIMONIALS

‘The Marylebone and Mayfair walk was thoroughly captivating. Having lived and worked in the area for many years, I was interested to see if Mike could offer any new insights – and boy, did he! His expertise ranges across history, architecture, culture and social history, and his easy way with storytelling makes him an entertaining walking companion.’ – Katie Puckrik, London

‘I learnt a lot and saw many places I’ve never seen before, which is all I ask of a London walk.

Fitzrovian Passion.‘To describe a church as an or**sm is bound to offend someone…yet this building can only be understoo...
20/06/2024

Fitzrovian Passion.

‘To describe a church as an or**sm is bound to offend someone…yet this building can only be understood in terms of compelling, overwhelming passion.’

So said critic Ian Nairn in 1964 in his great guide to London of the incredible All Saints, Margaret Street by architect William Butterfield.

Created 1849-59 this Fitzrovia church, clergy office and vestry helped secure Neo-Gothic as the architecture of the industrial age and pushed Anglican church building into new territory with ‘brutalist’ all over red and blue polychromatic brickwork and high Victorian decoration inside and out - with mosaics, tiles, stonework and ironwork reflecting a new age of richness that recalled Catholic places of worship all over Europe and those of England prior to the reformation.

Original Docklands Bling.Canary Wharf these days is dripping in the world’s pie and mash, but the centrepiece of this ur...
19/06/2024

Original Docklands Bling.

Canary Wharf these days is dripping in the world’s pie and mash, but the centrepiece of this urban tomfoolery was and still remains the dazzling Number One Canada Square!

Completed in 1991 this stainless steel covered icon was designed by Argentine-American César Pelli and opened as Europe’s tallest office building at 770 feet/235 metres.

Once standing in splendid isolation, alone amidst the former quaysides and docks of the Isle of Dogs, its unmissable pyramid topped obelisk form was a colossal ‘up yours!’ to London’s financial establishment and centuries long spatial traditions of the city.

Now part of forest of (mostly lesser) towers, it’s easy to overlook its impact on the skyline 34 years ago, even easier to overlook is its immaculately polished colonnaded base - shown here and looking sharp as knives in this weeks spectacular evening light! 💪🌅💎💍

👉FIND OUT MORE ON CANARY WHARF WALKING TOUR ON SATURDAY 20 AUGUST - follow website link in bio to book !👈

Civic Commons.The vivid red bricks and outstanding sculptural shared entrance of Lawrence House on the mighty Millbank E...
13/06/2024

Civic Commons.

The vivid red bricks and outstanding sculptural shared entrance of Lawrence House on the mighty Millbank Estate. Created between 1899-1902 on the site of the former Millbank Penitentiary, it was the second large estate of the London County Council (LCC) by its Housing Branch team of young architects.

Led by architect Reginald Minton Taylor, the crisp arts and craft design demonstrated the young LCC’s super confidence and was based on dwelling and planning ideas lifted from experiments undertook at The Boundary in Shoreditch a few years before.

The characterful blocks of flats with their emphasis on well designed communal entrances, spaces and facilities is a reminder of the high value the LCC placed on creating great civic infrastructure that enabled people to live together well all over the city!

….needed as much today as then! 💪 🗳️🏠

Tuscana Rus.Garden view of the weighty Tuscan portico of the fabulous Christchurch Spitalfields - the mother church of t...
12/06/2024

Tuscana Rus.

Garden view of the weighty Tuscan portico of the fabulous Christchurch Spitalfields - the mother church of the East End seen from the fabulous adjacent churchyard - created between 1714-29 and designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor as an unmissable show of state - Church of England - power in what was a rapidly growing, international and non conformist district with a mix of merchants, traders, hawkers and weavers from across the UK and Europe.

Anglo Persian.Upper storey sculptural narratives at Finsbury Circus and the neo-classical drama of the old Britannic Hou...
07/06/2024

Anglo Persian.

Upper storey sculptural narratives at Finsbury Circus and the neo-classical drama of the old Britannic House. Created between 1924-27 by Edwin Lutyens, this flamboyant big business palazzo was the HQ of the Anglo Persian Oil Company aka British Petroleum aka BP.

The holdings, supplies and profits of this government backed oil company were once vital to the UK and it’s presence in the Persian Gulf completely reshaped Iran with British backed conflicts, coups and counter coups eventually sowing the seeds of the 1979 revolution all apparently hatched from within its walls with the help of MI6 and the CIA.

The figure here is the ‘Persian Scarf Dancer’ by sculptor Francis Derwent Wood and it is one of several regional figures distributed across its elevations beneath its Corinthian colonnade.

Span-ish Isle‘If Eric Lyons is the modern Nash, then this is his Regent’s Park’So said architectural critic Ian Nairn in...
06/06/2024

Span-ish Isle

‘If Eric Lyons is the modern Nash, then this is his Regent’s Park’

So said architectural critic Ian Nairn in 1964 of the extraordinary suite of 13 modern housing projects created by Eric Lyons for Span Developments Limited across the historic Cator Estate, Blackheath between 1956 and 1984.

Founded by Lyons with fellow architect Geoffrey Townsend in 1956, Span was a design-led commercial developer that sought to reinvigorate market housing during postwar years through a series of innovative and high quality projects blending modernism with landscape and the English Vernacular.

The result, The Priory - The Hall - Priory Park - The Keep - Corner Green - The Plantation - Parkrow - Southrow - Spangate - The Lane - Brooklands Park - Parkend - Holm Walk et al…..fresh-faced humanely scaled homes and flats with clean lines, smart plans and bright colours, with weather boarding and hung tiles set amidst a dream sequence of lush gardens, lawns and open precincts - all beneath the canopy of mature trees planted as the area was first developed with Regency Villas from the 1820s.

With thanks again to for the tour last month! 💪

Precision Manners.The super cool, understated, cast bronze confidence of Number 60 Queen Victoria Street in The City of ...
05/06/2024

Precision Manners.

The super cool, understated, cast bronze confidence of Number 60 Queen Victoria Street in The City of London.

Created in 1999 by architects Foggo Associates this fantastic office building takes its cue from the simple street lines of its historic triangular plot - with a diagonally placed entrance pulling focus to the urban corner and tonal black-Green metal truss work, columns, cornice, solar shades and louvres all adding the same visual articulation and texture as a carved stone palazzo!

In a City increasingly dominated by attention seeking wide boys, here’s a reminder of the awesome power of subtlety, fineness and nuance. 😎👌🪭

Stepping Up in Stepney.The fantastic projecting cantilevered access stairs of the terraces of the Sydney Street Estate i...
03/06/2024

Stepping Up in Stepney.

The fantastic projecting cantilevered access stairs of the terraces of the Sydney Street Estate in Whitechapel. Created in 1974 by John D. Hume of the Tower Hamlets Architects’ Dept. - a fantastic illustration of the culture of design innovation and experiment found within many of London’s boroughs during the post war years.

The overhangs here off-set the step backs on the rear elevation that provide all dwellings in the block with south facing terraces.

Battenburger.The hot pink and smooth buff thwack of the always exhilarating Number 1 Poultry,  a landmark of post modern...
28/05/2024

Battenburger.

The hot pink and smooth buff thwack of the always exhilarating Number 1 Poultry, a landmark of post modern architecture created finally in 1997 after years of delay by architect James Stirling, and seen here from its lesser photographed western rump.

This playful and audacious ‘Pomo’ block was originally conceived back in 1962 as a rectilinear dark glass tower, a purist modernist design by Mies Van der Rohe himself for developer Peter Palumbo.

But by 1982 when it was finally ready to happen, a huge architectural fight kicked off with conservationists calling for the 1870s Victorian offices on the site to be preserved and others decrying the outdated and irrelevant modernism which was 20 years old.

The outcome of this bitter dispute is one of the most original buildings in the city, one that stirs debate and never fails to provoke a reaction. Now grade II listed it’ll be delighting and upsetting millions in equal measure for years to come!

London Underbelly.The glorious timber lined soffit of the concourse at London Bridge Station. Created first in 1836, the...
23/05/2024

London Underbelly.

The glorious timber lined soffit of the concourse at London Bridge Station.

Created first in 1836, the station is the city’s oldest and over 150 years evolved into one of London’s most notorious with a series of competitive rebuilds, piecemeal extensions and partial refurbs creating a sprawling and chaotic layout described by poet John Davidson as ‘crude…And yet elaborate ineptitude.’

Conceived in conjunction with and paid for by the development of The Shard, the station was comprehensively rebuilt between 2013 and 2018 with a design led by Grimshaw that creates a huge through concourse at street level in place of a warren of brick arches and vaults with all lines and platforms held above by a series of weighty concrete bridges with access escalators and skylights between.

Easy to overlook amidst the dash for trains and the scrum of barriers and (ever growing extent of) signage, it’s an incredible feat of engineering and a fantastic spatial gift for passengers and those simply passing through!

Municipal Firsts.The fantastic rough cast gables of Hedsor House, one of a new generation of council tenements created i...
22/05/2024

Municipal Firsts.

The fantastic rough cast gables of Hedsor House, one of a new generation of council tenements created in 1899 as part of the London County Council’s epic Boundary Estate in Shoreditch begun in 1890 on the cleared site of the notorious Old Nichol slum.

Moving away from an older generation’s industrial Jacobean(ish) forms, the LCC’s own Housing Branch team of young architects purposely leant into the arts and crafts with more strident eaves and gables, bolder massing, greater irregularity and a more diverse material palette.

Landform. An awesome shuttered concrete promontory of the National Theatre on the Southbank.Created between 1969-76 and ...
21/05/2024

Landform.

An awesome shuttered concrete promontory of the National Theatre on the Southbank.

Created between 1969-76 and designed by Denys Lasdun, this is modern masterpiece is more than a single building and even more than three amazing theatres it is a manifesto about an alternative type of city one that is both imposing, impressive and tough, but also thoughtful, generous, open and considerate of the city around it, stepping back so you can appreciate a view of a distant 18th century cathedral and relaxed enough to provide a set of terraces to let you clamber and hang all over it.

Stoop.‘Ang about!(?)… the spectacular white ceramic tiled cantilevered concrete super block (pause for breath) of the Ba...
16/05/2024

Stoop.

‘Ang about!(?)… the spectacular white ceramic tiled cantilevered concrete super block (pause for breath) of the Barbican library atop the multi-level arts centre created between 1956-1982 by architects Chamberlin, Powell and Bon.

Intended as the main entrance to the space, this fantastic set of steps and top heavy projection provides a grand implied portico, proof of the enduring and perhaps surprising legacy of classical proportions and spatial traditions at work even amidst this Brutalist townscape.

The entrance has been out of use for years and so this incredible gesture is more like a folly in a landscape, providing the stage set for romantic fiction perhaps….and free running. 💪

Steppy Down Types. Well ordered low-rise, high-density housing terraces at Oakshott Court, Somers Town created in 1976 b...
15/05/2024

Steppy Down Types.

Well ordered low-rise, high-density housing terraces at Oakshott Court, Somers Town created in 1976 by architect Peter Tabori as part of the legendary postwar council housing programme led by Camden Council and started by Sydney Cook between 1965 and 1973 with an emphasis on humane dwelling forms, urban landscape, alternatives to tower blocks and re-imagining the street.

Euston Waffle.The show stopping pop-waffle/acoustic baffle ceiling in the ticket hall at Euston Station - a dazzling rem...
10/05/2024

Euston Waffle.

The show stopping pop-waffle/acoustic baffle ceiling in the ticket hall at Euston Station - a dazzling reminder of the (short lived) optimism behind the reconstruction of one of London’s largest and busiest termini.

Built between 1962-68, the ‘new’ Euston station was created by British Rail as the flagship project of the modernisation of the West Coast mainline with a design by architect Ray Moorcroft and William Robert Headley.

The project ushered in the needless destruction of the iconic Euston Arch of 1837 by Philip Hardwick, the extraordinary neo-classical frontispiece of the first station and so - understandably - the ‘new’ station is looked upon pretty dimly by most. The platform areas are unforgivable and the train shed is a disaster, but the 1960s passenger concourse possesses some real moments of ambition and flair whose qualities expose the shoddy and botched shortsightedness of recent ‘improvements.’

Tensile Drape.The undulating swagged form of the cafe/restaurant at the Serpentine North Gallery. Created in 2013 by Zah...
09/05/2024

Tensile Drape.

The undulating swagged form of the cafe/restaurant at the Serpentine North Gallery.

Created in 2013 by Zaha Hadid Architects, this curvaceous tensile fibre glass canopy structure swoops up and down to create a new landmark in Kensington Gardens and straddles the historic Magazine - the main gallery - and former Gunpowder Store created in 1805 and in use by the military until 1963. Restored as part of the project from 2009.

Despite the drama of this incredible roofscape, by one the UK’s most reknowned international practices, views of it are restricted by a set of substantial, well maintained and completely unnecessary privet hedges that are odds with its sprawling organic intention and deny the possibility of what could be a fantastic dreamlike addition to the urban parkland landscape.

Whitechapel Originals.View along the tough-as-old-boots 34-60 Parfett Street, a rare surviving terrace of 14 townhouses ...
08/05/2024

Whitechapel Originals.

View along the tough-as-old-boots 34-60 Parfett Street, a rare surviving terrace of 14 townhouses at the heart of the original East End.

Created in the early 1800s as London reached a population of 1 million - the first city in history to do so - this was the bread and butter stuff of the new metropolis and replicated in huge numbers everywhere!

By the mid 20th century however, historic Stepney embraced policies of comprehensive reconstruction to address issues of poverty, infant mortality, slums and housing crisis - all amplified by WWII. In this process the area lost many historic streets and townscapes during the postwar years. Remarkable then that this stretch of Parfett Street survives!

Swiss Heights.The statuesque stacked concrete form of Centre Heights at Swiss Cottage.Created 1961-63 by architects Doug...
02/05/2024

Swiss Heights.

The statuesque stacked concrete form of Centre Heights at Swiss Cottage.

Created 1961-63 by architects Douglas Stephen & Partners and Panos Koulermos, this always surprising chunk of confident modernism along the edge of the Finchley Road consists of a l’Unite style layer cake of shops, offices and flats with each layer easily read by the shifts in the elevations with window rhythms, form and spacing reflecting the needs of the spaces within.

Gloriana AngliaThe cathedral-like concourse of Liverpool Street Station, created 1985 - 1992 by the British Rail Archite...
01/05/2024

Gloriana Anglia

The cathedral-like concourse of Liverpool Street Station, created 1985 - 1992 by the British Rail Architects’ Department under Nick Derbyshire with a design that extends and amplifies the original of 1875 by the Great Eastern Railway company and its engineer Edward Wilson.

This incredible public space with its soaring grade II listed roof and unique architectural language is threatened with demolition.

Currently in planning, the new scheme for an oversite development - the kind that was fought against back in the 1970s - will if approved by The City it will destroy everything in this view.

Supporters of the scheme say it’s fine for it to go because this isn’t really from the 19th century. This is utter tosh. It matters on every level - architecturally, spatially, practically, visually, sustainably and emotionally. This is a space that stirs the soul.

Decision due soon. Stay angry. 💪🔊📣🤞

Practice Makes PerfectThe fabulous octagonal practice studio modules of the Guildhall School of Music and Drama along th...
30/04/2024

Practice Makes Perfect

The fabulous octagonal practice studio modules of the Guildhall School of Music and Drama along the lakeside terrace of the Barbican in the City of London.

Designed in 1959 by architects Peter Chamberlin and Christoph Bon - of Chamberlin, Powell & Bon - it was completed in 1977 with the stacked suite of rooms seen here held aloof on a semi-open concrete frame - tied to the wider estate megastructure - with the music rooms boldly expressed in sharp and super cool aubergine/claret red bricks.

Svelte, gorgeous and pitch perfect! 🎶

Kennington Fantasia.The dazzling peculiar of the church of St Paul’s Lorrimore Square in Kennington completed in 1960 an...
25/04/2024

Kennington Fantasia.

The dazzling peculiar of the church of St Paul’s Lorrimore Square in Kennington completed in 1960 and designed by Woodroffe Buchanan & Coulter in a wonderful mix of Scandi Modern Jetson Gothic - completely unique and much loved replacement of an original church on the site from the 1850s, created as the centrepiece of a square which at that time was on the periphery of the rapidly expanding Victorian city

Shoreline Extract.Low tide view of the iconic Oxo Tower, or Stamford Wharf, along the South Bank.Created 1928-29 by arch...
23/04/2024

Shoreline Extract.

Low tide view of the iconic Oxo Tower, or Stamford Wharf, along the South Bank.

Created 1928-29 by architect Albert Moore for the Liebig Extract of Meat Company - reworking an older building in loosely art deco style - this fantastic relic is a great reminder of the former industrial life of the area before its reclaimation for leisure and tourism.

Today operated as part of the Coin Street Community Builders, the site was acquired by the London County Council as part of grand plans to extend the embankment towards Tower Bridge. Later the GLC under Horace Cutler sought to flog the site for offices after costs had soared.

Challenged by the local community and Ken Livingstone in opposition, the GLC under his control granted the site to locals who developed the area themselves for housing and a mix of creative and community enterprises including shops and workshops.

Since 1990s the building with its anchor tenants of shops and landmark rooftop restaurant - designed by Lifschutz Davidson Sandilands for Harvey Nichols - has cross subsidised the ongoing development of cooperative housing nearby.

Backstein Heft.The fabulous Großes Haus of the former offices of the Co-operative Wholesale Society on Prescott Street, ...
19/04/2024

Backstein Heft.

The fabulous Großes Haus of the former offices of the Co-operative Wholesale Society on Prescott Street, Aldgate. Designed by 1932 by the Co-op’s own in house architect Leonard Grey Ekins, this weighty colossus is a rare example in London of ‘brick expressionism’ and more typical of the cities of Hamburg and northern Germany where the style is referred to as ‘backsteinexpressionismus’(!)

As the name suggests it’s all about reinventing the humble brick, to splay, tessellate, rake, twist and stagger and scale up the bonds to create animation, texture and dynamism and in the interwar years a new architecture!….or Neue Architektur.

In the 19th century, Aldgate was known as Little Germany, by the 1930s this association had been ripped apart and abandoned, but the style here is a reminder of England’s longstanding links to the trading cities of Northern Europe.

Niche Municipalism.Heroic figures by sculptor Ernest Cole created in 1920 as part of the first phase of the mighty Count...
17/04/2024

Niche Municipalism.

Heroic figures by sculptor Ernest Cole created in 1920 as part of the first phase of the mighty County Hall, London own seat of metro democracy designed by architect Ralph Knott.

The huge complex is covered in artworks with various, recognisable and accessible themes including ‘education’ ‘Town planning’ and ‘Mother and Child’.

These guys though are officially untitled - sometimes referred to as ‘Benevolence and Humanity‘ - with their skulking, muscular forms suggesting power, but also defiance and unease.

The fantastic online blog ‘Ornamental Passions’ suggesting they might be about to launch missiles across the river to Westminster and the Houses of Parliament opposite. 💪

Bethnal Geometries.Caught in sunshine between April’s sudden showers, the dazzling optics of George Loveless House, part...
16/04/2024

Bethnal Geometries.

Caught in sunshine between April’s sudden showers, the dazzling optics of George Loveless House, part of Bethnal Green’s Dorset Estate.

Created by architects Skinner, Bailey and Lubetkin in 1957 for the old Metropolitan Borough of Bethnal Green, the estate is defined by twin 11-storey Y-shaped towers whose elevations are brought to life with alternating patterns of concrete aggregate panels and red brick the switch between those featuring access decks/galleries and living spaces.

At their top above the central cores - looking like the spine of a book here - are crests depicting ‘The Blind Beggar and his Dog’ the symbol of the old borough - recalling a story of not judging by appearances - fantastic reminders that as well as housing these modernist buildings were conceived as proud new civic monuments. 💪

Goswell Sweeep.The fabulous curved form of Crescent House, part of The Golden Lane Estate on the edge of The City of Lon...
15/04/2024

Goswell Sweeep.

The fabulous curved form of Crescent House, part of The Golden Lane Estate on the edge of The City of London. Created 1958-62 by architects Chamberlin Powell and Bon, this elegant mixed use block of flats with its projecting bays and arched forms features a parade of shops set within a spacious arcade supported by a long run of simple tiled pilotti (columns).

The building is significant also as the prototype for some of the features that were later refined and scaled up - massively - for the architect’s next project The Barbican. Among them the distinctive barrel vault roofs and use of bush hammered concrete.

The success of this fantastic experiment informed the decision to take it further down the road and into the sky…..the rest, as they say is Brutalism!….or something. 💪

Super Smooth.The exquisite lines and taut ceramic skin of the fabulous IBEX house on Minories on the edge of the City of...
14/04/2024

Super Smooth.

The exquisite lines and taut ceramic skin of the fabulous IBEX house on Minories on the edge of the City of London. Created in 1937 by architects Fuller, Hall and Foulsham it was one of the few determinedly modern offices in the interwar city - as opposed to classical style - with a big steel frame building wrapped in horizontal bands of streamlined glazing and big chunks of super smooth faience in buff and at ground in black that curves around corners without breaking and holds the whole together like a block of beautifully sweet tablet. 💪

Block Dwellings. The distinctive gable tops of the Walton and Henley Buildings, some of the first tenements of the Londo...
13/04/2024

Block Dwellings.

The distinctive gable tops of the Walton and Henley Buildings, some of the first tenements of the London County Council’s epic Boundary Estate. Completed in 1894 they were designed by Rowland Plumbe in a hard-wearing and tough looking Jacobean/Queen Anne style.

Later blocks on the estate led by the LCC’s own Housing Branch team of young architects purposely leant into the arts and crafts with more strident eaves and gables, bolder massing, greater irregularity and a more diverse material palette.

Address

Hitchin Square
London
E35QF

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when The London Ambler posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Videos

Share