23/09/2024
Day 16: Matosinho. 13 km. First leg of my journey out of Porto at last. Sleeping here one last night before 10 days of pilgrim dorms in hostels.
So let's throw in a few more numbers so you know where I'm at.
Lisbon to Porto Camino is 367 km. I have now covered 363 km by walking back and forward on the route from Porto to add to my 241 km before the fires broke out. Job done.
Porto to Santiago Coastal route (green coastline- hugging dots below), favoured by 37% of Camino Peregrinos apparently, is another 271km or 167 miles. I am scheduled to walk that in a challenging 13 days, so around 21km per day. Grateful it's about a third less than my first 10 day total. That last 10k in the heat was THE KILLER for me and my feet. And another 10 days of relentless walking before I get a rest day.
Grand total at Santiago will be 638 km/ 397 miles (without detours, finding auberges or food foraging!).
Back to today. Started cool and misty (an unwelcome foretaste of the four days of rain forecast, starting heavy tomorrow) but ended well in 21 degree sunshine and my first swim.
I passed an amazing man as I followed the pilgrim path out of the city. He had dozens of birds on his one man band contraption. All happy, safe, looked after, sticking with him for love. They could have flown away but no need in such a relationship. No coercion, no ties, no control. I pondered that a lot about men and religious structures as I walked.
Walking out along the beautiful Douro River, I chatted to two retired women from California and Delaware on a second camino, several years in the planning after the Frances. Enjoyed the craic with five hilariously buoyant women from Belfast who were completing the route two years running... this week and the second half next year.
Then I fell into step with two pilgrim pals from the Netherlands who had befriended a young German woman that morning who had felt the sudden urge to walk the camino and come with no preparation. Bless... they were downloading sage advice from Marijke's SEVEN previous caminos. I was all ears to learn from a master too!
Lauren from Stuttgart told me she just needed to get away, sort out her head, improve her mental health and make a plan for her life. You sound like me, I told her!
We shared stories of loss, agreed there was never need to compare. Pain is pain. We cried, hugged... and she bought me a cuppa because in the magic of the Camino, she had been fretting about having accidentally brought her hostel keys with her.
I was returning to Porto, so I agreed I would walk them round to her hostel on the way to stocking up on Compeed and snacks needed for tomorrow's 26km. She was so relieved.
Early start in the morning and a tough distance, so buen camino everyone 🥰