20/07/2024
Summer in the city?
Dream of, or even better, imagine you are on an island somewhere in the Aegean Sea.
Summer in the city!
Tired of stuffy tours that make history feel like a snooze-fest? I will make your tour less ordinary!
31/05/2024
I don’t want comfort. I want danger. I want freedom. I want goodness. I want poetry. I want sin.
— Aldous Huxley
08/05/2024
Thermopyles, literally means, Hot Gates, because in Greek mythology it was one of the entrances to Hades underworld. The spring became hot and sulphuric after Heracles dived into it to wash off poison infused in his cloak while slaying the Lernaean Hydra.
Being the only land route large enough to bear significant traffic on the east coast of central Greece, many a strategic standoffs took place here. The most epic was in 480BC during the 2nd Persian invasion when 7000 Greeks led by the badass Spartan King, Leonidas and his 300 super soldiers, faced-off with the massive Achaemenid Persian army of King Xerxes. The Greeks held back the Persians for 2 days, but betrayal reared nightmarishly. Ephialtes of Trachis, led the Persians on a night march through the Anopaea Pass, a hidden goat path, and flanked the Greeks.
Leonidas, ordered the Greek forces to retreat and regroup. However, he, his 300, and 700 Thespians, stayed behind, guarding the passage. The Persian king demanded they surrender their weapons, but Leonidas laconically replied, Molon Lavé - Come get them!
Nowadays, the actual battlefield is buried under heaps of debris. Mother Nature did some serious redecorating. Natural erosion from the forested limestone slopes of Mt. Kallidromos, continuous sediment deposits from the Spercheios river delta, and travertine deposits from the natural thermal spring have altered the topography creating a coastal floodplain advancing the shoreline of the Malian Gulf some 9km.
But fear not, for there stands an impressive bronze statue of Leonidas on the east side of the old highway, and across the road, atop a small hill, lays Simonides’ epitaph immortalising the fallen Spartans. As for the Hot Gates, Hades has closed shop, but the thermal spring flows and fumes ceaselessly, filling the air with that oh-so-delightful scent of sulphur.
So, next time you’re driving by Thermopyles, turn off the highway to see where this history defying battle went down. Oh, if you choose to visit the museum… It’s more of a souvenir store selling Spartan memorabilia.
Molon Lavé, fellow cultural crusaders!
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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06/05/2024
Ah Metéora! On the northwestern edge of the Thessalian Plain, just a stone’s throw away from where the Pineiós river exits the rugged Píndos Mountains in central Greece, above the charming town of Kalambáka, you’ll find one of the country’s most jaw-dropping sights - the majestic ginormous conglomerate boulders of Metéora. This cluster of colossal rocks, some towering over 600m high, were Mamma Nature’s way of saying, “I’m gonna make something wondrous here!” And oh boy, She did!
Back in the day, these towering boulders provided the perfect hideout for hermits seeking refuge in the natural caves. A rudimentary brotherhood evolved in the 1100s, but then they got all fancy schmansy and built monasteries atop of the gigantic rocks. By the 1700s, it had grown into a thriving monastic state with 1500 monks and nuns living ascetic lives in snazzy high-rise monasteries, surrounded by mediaeval treasures, valued manuscripts, and priceless icons. A real life version of, In The Name Of The Rose - without the murder.
Nowadays, it’s a spiritual theme park in the clouds. Of the 24 Holy Monasteries, 8 still stand, of which, 4 monasteries and 2 nunneries are operational.
Gradually gaining popularity after a road was opened in 1948 allowing easy access and entrance to women, in 1988, UNESCO was like, “Yeah, this place is too divine to ignore,” declaring Metéora a World Heritage Site. And let’s not forget Mother Nature’s stamp of approval - apart from the amazing geological rock formations, the area is part of the NATURA 2000 network, home to some seriously rare plants and critters.
Despite the throngs of domestic and international visitors, there’s a spiritual ambience here. It’s like God and Mother Nature got together and said, “Let’s create a truly beautiful combination of spiritual fervour and natural wonders!” And they did!
If you’re looking for a dose of history, spirituality, spectacular views, hiking paths, or rock climbing, this is the place. So, whether you’re a devout believer, a nature lover, or just someone looking for a cool Instagram backdrop, Metéora has something for everyone.
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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01/05/2024
Ah, the Athenian Agorá (market) was not only the main market where Athenians went shopping. Oh no! The agora was where all aspects of civic life unfolded. It was the heart of Athenian democracy, where all the main political assemblies, administrative facilities, and judicial functions were located. This is where people from all walks of life came to buy, sell, and trade goods, participate in religious and athletic activities, and to catch a performance of the latest Greek tragedy. And of course, to socialise!
In its heyday, it was so popular that even the Olympian gods payed a visit! Yep! Zeus swooped in to check out the mortal women. Poseidon rolled in to do quality control on the salt. Athena pranced around armed to the brim wearing her coolest plume, regulating the price of olives. While Aphrodite flirted with Ares behind the temple dedicated to her hubby, and Dionysus kept trying to get wine parties started!
Nowadays, the gods may be long forgotten, but their spirit lives on as the site is dominated by the Temple of Hephaestus, colloquially known as Thissio, located on top of the Agoraíos Kolonós hill in the northwestern corner of the agorá. It’s dedicated to the god of fire and craftsmen, the blacksmith of the gods, notorious for cracking Zeus’s head open with his peen, after-which, goddess Athena emerged fully grown wielding her spear and shield! But he also smelted and forged all the cool weapons and snazzy armours for the Olympians. Construction of the temple began in 449BC, but took a tad longer to finish as in 447, marble masons were redirected to building the Parthenon. Finally completed in 415BC, it stands testament to the building techniques used.
Cultural Crusader Fun Fact: …it may have lost its roof over the millennia, but hey, it’s the only totally intact Doric temple still standing.
So, when you’re stnrolling through the ruins of the Agorá, take a moment to imagine the hustle and bustle of the place, and the gods themselves wandering the market stalls, haggling over prices. Trade after all, is not merely selling a collection of products, it’s also a social transaction.
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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25/04/2024
Mount Pilio (Pelion), in the southeastern part of Thessaly in Magnesia, central Greece, forms a hook-like peninsula separating the Pagasetic Gulf of the city of Volos from the Aegean Sea.
The mountain is named after the mythical king Pelios (Peleus), father of badass warrior, Achilles. Furthermore, it was the stomping ground of Chiron the Centaur, a creature with the upper body of a human and the lower of a horse, who was the wise tutor of Greek heroes: Heracles, Jason, Achilles, and Theseus. This is where the marriage of Thetis and Pelios took place. And where the goddess Eris, in revenge for not being invited, offered the Golden Apple of Discord with the inscription, To the Fairest. The dispute between Hera, Aphrodite, and Athena, resulted in the events leading to the Trojan War. Additionally, Volos (ancient Iolkos) was the starting point of the famed expedition of Jason and the Argonauts.
Today, Pílio is a popular tourist attraction combining mythology, history, traditional mountainous villages, and beautiful beaches. Looming above the coastline, a dramatic sweep of thriving vegetation is dominated by pine, chestnut, and plane trees, that stretch all the way up to the lofty summit, Pourianos Stavros (1.624m) where sits the Ski Resort.
The mountain is overhung by cliffs, escarpments, and plateaus, on which nestle numerous picturesque villages, that preserve traditional architectural styled buildings with stone slate rooftops. To name a few: Makrinítsa, Portariá, and Hánia, on the western slopes, and, Zagorá, Moúresi, and Tsagaráda, on the eastern slopes.
Tsagaráda is perched from 250-500m between lush vegetation, overlooking the Aegean Sea. It has about 550 permanent residents who sparsely inhabit 4 main neighbourhoods: Agii Taxiarches, Agia Paraskevi, Agios Stefanos, and Agia Kyriaki, which are scattered above the area between the beaches of Milopotamos and Fakistra.
Cultural Crusader Fun Fact: The square of Agia Paraskevi is dominated by a ginormous plane tree which has a whopping 20m wide trunk. The locals proudly declare it’s over a thousand years old. Slay!
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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31/03/2024
CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS POST.
During the Greek War of Independence (1821), local chieftains followed in the rebellious footsteps of the rest of Greece. But the Ottomans weren’t having any of it, imprisoning prefects and executing locals, even demolishing all the bell towers in retaliation (1823). Autonomous rebel crews never stopped making a ruckus against the Turks, but it wasn’t until the 1st Macedonian Revolution in 1867, when prominent Kastórians joined the cause that the rebellion actually gained momentum. The Ottomans nonetheless, returned like for like, and things got uglier in the 2nd Revolution of 1878. The Sultan allowed the Bulgarians to invade, with Greeks and Bulgarians duking it out again, especially after a not-so-great Greek-Turkish war of 1897. Rebels like Pavlos Melas and chieftains like Aristides Margaritis were making waves, with various other figures leaving their indelible mark in the bloody Macedonian uprisings!
Come November 11th, 1912, Greece claims victory in the 1st Balkan War, and Kastórians dance to songs of liberty in the rear of 500 years of Ottoman rule. After WWI, Greece goes to war with Turkey (again), culminating in a crushing defeat for the Greeks. Whereafter brutal massacres of the Orthodox populations living on the coasts of Asia Minor, forces them to flee to Greece as refugees. In the subsequent population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1922, of the 500,000 total, 2000 Muslim Kastorians bid adieu forever, and of the 1.5 million total Greek orthodox refugees, 1000 settle in Kastoriá.
With the outbreak of WWII the Kastorians fought against the Italian, Bulgarian, and German invaders. The city was severely affected by the German occupation, nonetheless, it remained commercially active. In the 1940 census Kastoriá had 6000 inhabitants with a vibrant Jewish community 780 strong, whose ancestors were drawn to the fur trade scene. But in late March 1944, 760 of them were taken to the concentration camps. Only 35 returned. This is especially tragic seeing the city was freed from the n***s just four months later by the Greek People’s Liberation Army.
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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30/03/2024
Ah ha! You thought Kastoriá was a one off thing? Oh no no! Greece has way too much history for just one post.
I will be uploading 3 to 5 posts a week, taking a deeper look into the unique history of the chosen location… you ready to Rock n’ Roll?
Kastoriá’s story is dope! No joke; it’s got more ups and downs than a beaver on speed! So, buckle up, and get ready for a shaggy ride.
Archaeological evidence shows human presence since the Neolithic times. Inevitably, its namesake has many conflicting theories. Greek mythology mentions the mythical god Kástora, who was an avid beaver hunter (kástoras in Greek) with a breed of dog called Kastorides. This dude gave his name to Kastoriá, the beaver, and the dogs.
Much later, in the 1st c. AD, Livy wrote about a town on a lake calling it Celetrum, which got snagged by the Romans in 200BC during their tussle with Phillip V of Macedonia. While the Romans played masters of the Mediterranean, names like “Diocletianopolis” and “Justinianopolis” were thrown around like confetti at a Roman Emperor’s birthday-bash.
It wasn’t until 980AD we come across the name, Kastoriá again. With prevailing opinion, it came from the Greek word kástoras - beaver, that were endemic to the area and the main source of income for many a yesteryear.
After the decline of the Roman Empire, throughout the Early Medieval times, the Crusades and late Middle Ages, the Kastórians were caught in the crossfire between the Bulgarians, the Byzantines, and the Normans. Changing rulers, warlords, and despots, as if they were in a crazy game of medieval musical chairs.
In the early 1300s, Kastoriá found itself under a Thessalonian warlord with a flair for drama. Then, this local hero dude swooped in like a man with a mission, only to have the Byzantine ruler Andronikos Palaiologos sn**ch the spotlight in 1332. But the Serbs, from up north, decided to crash the party and claim Kastoriá for themselves. In 1371 it was captured by the Albanian Mouzakis family, and finally, in 1385, the ever growing Ottoman Empire start taking the Balkans. Northwestern Greece included!
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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19/03/2024
Ahhhh Kastoriá! Admittedly charming, quaint and beautiful, I must say, researching Kastoriá and its rich history has been a true Cultural Crusade for me.
Now! Let’s Rock n’ Roll!
Kastoriá, the capital of the Kastoriá regional unit with a population of 16,400, lies perched at an altitude of 700m surrounded by the scenic mountains of Vitsi and Grámmos, in Northwestern Macedonia, Greece. It’s a picturesque jem that sits cozily on a promontory projecting into Lake Orestiada. The lake, however, is not just a pretty backdrop. This body of water has been the lifeblood of Kastoriá since the dawn of time. Once bustling with beavers, yep, beavers! Actually, it was the furry little buck-toothed rodents that put the town on the map. Back in the day, Kastoriá was the go-to spot for all things beaver-related, with a booming trade in beaver skin/furs. But when the beavers decided to pull a disappearing act. Oh yes, the once abundant species of endemic beaver was extirpated from the region due to over-hunting. However, the Kastórian furriers weren’t at all deterred with the extinction. No sir, they weren’t about to let go of their specialty craft; Oh no, they started importing furs instead. And over the years, built quite a reputation for themselves as furriers! Seriously! Kastoriá is where fur fashion thrives! Every nook and cranny of this charming city is filled with businesses dedicated to crafting garments out of imported furs, especially mink. It’s a furry fashion extravaganza which became an international hotspot for all things fur-related. They even throw a fancy annual fur exhibition that attracts fur specialists and enthusiasts from all over the globe. I know right! Who would’ve guessed that a little town off the beaten track, tucked away in the Greek mountains, without a single furry animal, would be a front runner in the fur fashion world? Kudos to you Kastoriá! That’s quite an achievement.
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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17/03/2024
Θε μου τι μπλε ξοδεύεις για να μη σε βλέπουμε!
- Οδυσσέας Ελύτης
═══════ © ═══════
27/02/2024
Ah, the Kifisos River, also known as the Boeotian Kifisos because one river with that name wasn’t enough for Kephissus, the River-God of Phocis and Boeotia. Myth has it that he also created the Kifisos river that still runs through Athens.
The headwaters of Kifisos originate just below Lilaia (a Naiad), the daughter of the river god Kephissus himself. Lilaia was one of the most important Phocian city-states, located in central Greece on the northwestern slope of Mount Parnassus - the backside of the mountain of the famous Oracle of Délphi.
When the travel blogger, Pausanias (110-180AD), visited Lilaia, he documented temples of Apollo and Artemis containing statues of Athenian Pendelic marble, along with a sanctuary dedicated to the deified river, a theatre, an agora, and baths. Also noting that the Lilaians believed the famous Castalian spring in Delphi was a gift of Kephissus and on special occasions, threw sweets in the river, hoping they’d magically appear in the Castalian Spring. So sweet of them, right? Nowadays, only ruins of the settlement are still visible.
The spring, although dominated by overgrown vegetation, remnants of 8 pedestals of votive statues and 4 excavations in the bedrock for depositing vows for ancient sacramental ceremonies, are still visible.
From these headwaters, the river meanders eastward through historic towns like Amfikleia, Tithorea, and Orchomenos, on the Boeotian plain. Back in the day it lead to Lake Kifisos until it was drained in 1887. Much later an artificial outflow was built that runs into Lake Yliki.
The fertile Boeotian Plains are a region with rich history and mythical tales galore, having seen its fair share of action with the countless settlements scattered everywhere standing testament to the once thriving agrarian societies.
So there you have it Cultural Crusaders, the tale of a perpetually running crystal-clean natural spring and a winding waterway filled with mythology, history, and maybe even a few sweet surprises. If you find yourself in the area, remember to throw sweets in the spring. You never know whose day you’ll sweeten up!
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
PS
I know, mythological tales/legends/epics/stories/fairitales - call them what you like - of river gods and naiads (nymphs) sound daft to us modern scientifically enlightened people, but story telling has always been, and always will be, humanity’s effort to coalesce the vapour of our fallible experiences, to explain the natural and supernatural world around us into viable and logical comprehension. After all, fiction is the lie within which we tell the truth.
So, inevitably, daft little idiosyncratic traditions are part of human nature. Just consider the act of putting a message in a bottle, throwing it out to sea, hoping it’ll be found by your one true love. I know, right…
Anyway, river gods, and naiads were extremely important and thus worshiped in early subsistent agrarian societies, where water was more important than any other commodity. Water was and is life.
19/02/2024
Kastoriá, idyllically nestled on the promontory of the western shore of Lake Orestiáda, is the capital of the Kastoriá regional unit in Western Macedonia, Greece. Its name, Kastoriá, comes from the Greek word for beaver (Kastoras), which makes sense as this is the land of beavers and furriers! The local fur industry was the main source of income for many a yesteryear. Undoubtedly, this is where you’ll find the most renowned furriers in Greece, past and present, many of which acquired great wealth.
The lake, however, was not just a pretty backdrop, my friends. This body of water has been the lifeblood of Kastoriá, providing food and other necessities. While under Ottoman rule, people flocked here from all over the Balkans to work in the thriving fur and trout fishing industries. Greeks, Turks, Jews, Bulgarians, and Albanians all lived in their own little quarters, creating a vibrant and diverse community.
If you like scenic drives, there’s a narrow road that goes all the way round the promontory. The waterfront is lined with majestic plane trees, willows, and birds! Lots of birdies - over 200 different species fluttering about. Many of which are migratory, others rare, and some even endangered, it’s a birdwatcher’s paradise. Oh yes… nearly forgot! Just 3km along the coastal road, a little before the Monastery of Panagia Mavriotissis, don’t miss the Dragon’s Cave! A cavernous complex with 7 lakes, 10 chambers, and 5 tunnels.
The real charm of Kastoriá, however, doesn’t stop there. Its traditional architecture makes the town a picturesque time capsule, with beautifully preserved manors and mansions dating from the 17th to 19th centuries. The old Greek lakeside quarter of Doltso is a true gem, showcasing the decorative architectural wonders of the past.
So, whether you’re a Greek or a foreigner, Kastoriá is a must-visit destination. Come and experience the magic of the local recipes, and traditional architecture, where beavers, furriers, and birdwatchers unite in harmony. It’s a place where history and nature intertwine, creating a truly unforgettable experience.
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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08/02/2024
Hey Cultural Crusaders! I’m goin’ headlong into this one! My favourite ancient Athenian citizen is Pericles 495-429BC. Perry’s fam, noble and loaded, allowed him to pursue his love for education, philosophy, and music. After completing his studies, he had a highly successful military career. His knack for gab and jaw-dropping oratory skills propelled him to politics, whereupon acquiring super statesman status. But, Perry wasn’t just about talking the talk, he also walked the walk. During his tenure, 461-429BC, he literally rebuilt Athens, hyped democracy, and was the first politician to say, Yo, education matters! By proliferating learning and boosting arts, he lured many great minds and thinkers, transforming Athenz into a cultural and intellectual hotspot. Yep, this dude kinda kick-started the Golden Age.
Wait, there’s more! A true trailblazer, he divorced his wife to marry his much younger courtesan, Aspa (Aspasia of Miletus), who was the embodiment of beauty and intellect, once outwitting, none other, than Socrates himself. What a brainiac. The best part is, Perry, treated Aspa as his equal, breaking all societal norms, challenging the status quo, and showing the world that men and women can be equal. They were the ultimate ancient power couple.
Cultural Crusader Fun Fact: Ever wondered why Perry is always portrayed with a helmet on his head? Well, although a handsome dude indeed, his head was a tad too long. Like way out of proportion long. So, to spare him any embarrassment, sculptors slapped a snazzy helmet on his oddly shaped noggin. Kudos to the artisans for their empathetic cover-up, and for unintentionally starting a new “fashion” trend in military attire!
So my fellow travellers, next time you’re strutting through Athenz, make sure to give a shout-out to Perry. You’ll find his marble statue “standing like a boss” on Athinas Street, right next to the City Hall.
And remember, legacy is not about fancy monuments wearing helmets. Real legacy is about the impact we have on other people’s lives, and oh boy, Perry made an impact!
Who’s your city’s favourite historical figure?
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© text and photos by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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26/01/2024
Náfplio has it all! Mythology, history, and with its port and beaches, heaps of seaside charm, attracting all sorts of visitors from around the world. If you’re looking for a destination that’s dripping with history, and a feast for the eyes, this is the place to visit. Bewitchingly picturesque, once you step into its realm, you quickly realise that this was the first capital of the newborn Hellenic Republic of modern Greece between 1828 - 1834.
The buildings are a fusion of Venetian and neoclassical styles, painted in vibrant colours that give the town a fanciful almost medieval feel, with bougainvilleas adding a touch of nature’s beauty to this already coquettish scene. But hold on to your laurel wreaths my friends, for we have a challenge ahead! Don your bravest face, lace up your hiking boots, and get ready to conquer the mighty Palamidi fortress. This epic climb will leave you gasping for breath, not just from the jaw-dropping views, but also from the sheer number of steps that will test your glutes like never before. It’s a stairway to heaven, or maybe just a really good workout!
Cultural Crusader fun fact: What I find fascinating about the typical equestrian statue sculpted by Lazaros Sochos, is the connection between the material it is made from and the man, Theodoros Kolokotronis, who was probably the most revered protagonists of Greece’s struggles against the Ottoman Empire, serving as General-in-Chief of irregular forces in the Greek War of Independence during 1821-1829. Of the 2 copies made, one was placed here in the “Botanical Garden” or “Kolokotronis Park” in 1901, and a 2nd copy on the corner of Stadiou and Kolokotroni Street in Athens in 1904, on the side of the Parliament House (now the National History Museum). Strangely enough, it is moulded from melted-down bronze cannons taken from the Palamidi fortress used during the war of independence. Isn’t that cool?
So, my dear cultural crusaders, let’s embrace this journey with a rockin’ spirit! Náfplio awaits, ready to transport us to a world where myth, revolution, and history intertwine. Let’s rock n’ roll!
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© text & photos by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
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24/01/2024
Palamedes’ most famous exploit was his invention of the Greek alphabet. Yep, you heard correctly. Mythologically speaking, this guy supposedly invented 11 of the 24 weird looking pesky Greek letters. But he didn’t stop there. Oh no. During the stalemate of the Trojan war, he created a board game using dice which combined luck and strategy in a fun way. Not having much to do, all the soldiers were more than eager to break the monotony by testing their skills, trying their luck, and having some fun. The game was an instant success and became a sensation. Soon the entire Mediterranean world was talking about the genius of Palamedes.
Now, you might be thinking, Wow, this Palamedes dude sounds too good to be true! And you’re right! Everything regarding his life is myth. But that’s the thing about mythological characters, their main purpose is to inspire us to think outside the box, to do better, to be better.
So, the next time you find yourself in need of a little inspiration, just think of Palamedes. Remember his wit, his cunning, and his ingenuity. And who knows, maybe you’ll become a legend yourself in your sphere of influence, spreading positivity and laughter wherever you go. After all, we could all use a little more Palamedes in our lives.
Now my fellow Cultural Crusaders, let’s fast forward to the contemporary era. Nowadays, Náfplio is the ultimate weekend getaway due to its proximity to Athenz. The old town is like a time capsule, preserving its original architecture and traditional charm. Every corner is bursting with life. Quaint cafés, eateries, and restaurants line the streets, tempting you with delicious Greek delicacies. The countless souvenir shops offer a vast array of trinkets worthy of the revolutionary heroes themselves.
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© text & photo by The Overdressed Cultural Crusader® aka Lefterry Bellos
TO BE CONTINUED…
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