03/03/2019
Every once in a while, I get a regulator that tells a story that I feel is worth telling.
I get many different types of regulators from many different types of customers - some equipment is well looked after and some is not. Some have been looked after to the best of the customer’s abilities but damage can come from many different sources.
About 2 years ago, a Dive Instructor contacted me asking advice about his Scubapro MK25. His regulator had just been serviced by a dive centre here on Roatan. The complaint was that the regulator worked fine for only one dive and then on the very next dive, started leaking massive amounts of gas out of the holes in the side of the 1st Stage (ambient pressure chamber holes). When he tested it again on the surface after the aborted dive, the reg was making a deafeningly loud whistle with a serious gas leak. Having seen this malfunction previously, I was able to provide a diagnosis and description to the Instructor as to how to correct the problem. The “service technician” had installed the wrong o-ring (incorrect durometer rating) in a critical area - subjected to high-pressure. The Instructor elected to return the regulator to the same dive centre and have them correct the problem.
I vaguely remember the Instructor saying that they had also mixed up the dust-caps between his, and his girlfriend’s regulators. Here-in lies one of the key elements of this story.
I had never seen his, or his girlfriend’s regulators until today - so I didn’t know that they were not the same make / model until now.
So… it turns out that the Scubapro MK25 1st Stage dust-cap was installed onto an Aqualung Titan regulator and the Aqualung dust-cap was installed onto the Scubapro regulator. No big deal, right?
Wrong!
The photo below shows the Yoke Screws of both the Aqualung (left), and the Scubapro (right).
Note that the two Yoke Screws have very different angles on the tip where they contact the dust cap.
The Scubapro dust-cap was, in fact, split and broken by the more “pointy” Aqualung Yoke Screw. (The Scubapro dust-cap is a composite rubber and plastic unit, and the plastic inside was broken).
The seemingly minor mix-up of the dust-caps was a tell-tale sign that the “technician” was unfamiliar with the products he/she was servicing. This is just the beginning of the story.
Upon disassembly and inspection of the Aqualung Titan 1st Stage, it was obvious that the 1st Stage had been exposed to moisture intrusion. Out of curiosity, I filled the Scubapro Dust Cap with water and sure enough, water poured out the bottom, confirming that there was a crack and a hole. I did another test and found that even with the dust cap in place and tightened down, it was no longer water-tight as a result of the broken plastic inner part of the dust cap. By using the dust cap on the wrong regulator / Yoke Screw, the dust-cap had been broken - allowing moisture to enter the 1st Stage every time the user rinsed it.
Corrosion and salt / mineral deposits were found inside the 1st Stage as a result of the repeated moisture intrusion - causing damage to the nickel plating which protects the brass underneath.
The lesson continues…
Also noted after closer inspection, there are deep scratches through the nickel plating on the surface of the underside of the 1st Stage Body (underneath where the Diaphragm is located).
These scratches were likely made using improper tools in an attempt to remove the diaphragm (without first removing the Diaphragm Retainer).
Upon further inspection after cleaning, I found more scratches in the chrome plating on the threads and inside area of the Diaphragm Retainer, confirming suspicions that the previous “technician” had attempted to “dig-out” the diaphragm prior to removing the retainer. See photos below.
And the story continues…
Once I removed the plastic cover from the 1st Stage Body using a plastic tool, I found deep scratches through the nickel-plating on the outside of the body - indicating attempts to improperly remove the cover, likely using a screwdriver. See photos below. The 1st Stage body is made out of nickel-plated brass. Areas where scratches or wear has removed the nickel-plating, the exposed brass will corrode very quickly in salt-water.
The good news is that the regulator is still serviceable. The bad news is that the service-life of the regulator has been reduced somewhat.
It is so important to have your equipment serviced according to the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals - and adjust the interval depending on your usage. Vacation divers that dive 10-20 times, once a year can get away with annual inspection / overhaul as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Avid divers who dive 50-200 times a year can also likely get away with annual service if they properly rinse and store their equipment. Dive Professionals who dive 300-500 times a year need to have their gear inspected / overhauled as often as every 3 to 6 months, depending on how well they rinse and store their gear.
Here’s the sad part…
Just like Automobile and Motorcycle Mechanics, Electricians, Plumbers, Carpenters, Engineers, Doctors, Lawyers, Computer Technicians, and indeed Divemasters / Instructors - there are good and bad SCUBA “service technicians”.
As divers, we rely on SCUBA “service technicians” to take care of our LIFE SUPPORT EQUIPMENT, and do it according to the manufacturer’s specifications, with the proper tools, training, and original manufacturer’s service parts.
I have been blessed over the years to have had my equipment worked on by an incredibly ethical, professional, and skilled service technician who I trusted completely. (Thanks Kristine!). I have also had another service “technician” completely botch the service of my regulator which prompted me to start down this road. Since then, I have taken numerous courses, training sessions, read countless manuals and publications, and possess certifications in multiple brands. I have also invested considerably to equip myself with the necessary specialty tools required to perform the work.
I wish I could provide you all with a way to differentiate between a good and bad service technician or service centre. In Canada, United States, and Europe, only “Authorized Dealers” can obtain the service parts, training, certification, and perform work on brands and models that they sell. Even with these restrictions, there is no guarantee that you won’t have issues. I have heard of many “Service Centres” that don’t actually perform the servicing “in-house” - but rather send your regulator to another service provider. I suggest enquiring if the work will be done in-house, and by a trained and qualified technician.
Over a period of around 8 years working as a Divemaster, I can’t count the number of times there were problems with gear that the diver’s claimed, “they were just serviced before I came!”
Here’s what I hope you take away from this article….
Find a “Service Technician” by recommendations from others who have used their services. ;)
Understand that even the best technician is still human. DIVE RESPONSIBLY! If you solo dive, ensure that you have proper training, equipment (adequate redundant gas source), and experience to do so. If you and your dive buddy are “same ocean” divers (meaning you are nowhere near close enough to each other to assist in an emergency), change your habits! If you are a dive professional that believes that the laws of physics don’t apply to you, guess again!
Keep your gear well maintained and dive safe so you can enjoy diving for many years to come.
I’m always happy to provide advice and I hope you found this article interesting, useful and perhaps eye-opening.
Happy bubbles!
(Private Message me for info regarding equipment servicing enquiries).
