10/10/2023
Scattery Island, County Clare, 1880.
Uninhabited since 1978, this truly remarkable photo captures a moment in time on one of Ireland's least known but most fascinating islands.
An unnamed man takes a moment to rest and gaze towards the mainland, while another continues to work on his currach.
At the time of the photo the population of the island was at its zenith (according to Clare County Library's fantastic account of island life), with the currachs facilitating the main source of employment for the island residents.
As can be most clearly seen in the foreground, many of the dwellings (the area being known as 'The Street') were rope thatched.
Until fairly recent times, Roped houses were a feature of the landscape all along exposed Atlantic coastal locations, from the Beara Peninsula in the far south-west, right up around the west coast, and on around the north coast all the way down to the beautiful uplands of County Down.
In practice, a network of hand-made súgán (straw) ropes were stretched horizontally and vertically over the thatch and tied to timber or stone pegs that projected from the walls of the dwelling, below the eaves.
When firmly secured, these straw ropes ensured the thatch remained steadfast, regardless of the ferocity of the gale.
Our ancestors knew what they were doing!
Less than twenty intact examples (that still utilise the original pegs) now remain, all in County Donegal.
Additionally, on Valentia Island, County Kerry, a lone example is just about hanging in there under a tarpaulin covering.
At the time of the 1901 census all fifteen of the occupied dwellings on the island were classified as second or third class houses, indicating that none of the dwellings were one room cabins and that all had windows and a chimney.
All were sturdy structures with thick stone walls and eleven of the fifteen were still thatched.
During the course of the twentieth century a couple of the still thatched dwellings had a tin covering fitted over the original roof structure.
The surviving historic thatched roof structures all rotted and caved in after the island's remaining inhabitants began to depart for the mainland as the twentieth century progressed.
The island is now in the care of the State (OPW), with the majority of the dwellings in the photo having been reroofed in recent years (hence the inclusion on this page), all with distinctive red tin roofs.
A similar intervention was carried out on a number of the dwellings on the now uninhabited UNESCO listed Scottish island of St Kilda.
Indeed, the impression given by the uniform whitewashed walls and red tin roofs on Scattery Island is quite striking, though not historically accurate to the lived experience of many of the island's inhabitants, at least during the period discussed here.
The approximate date Robert French took this incredible photo is hard to pin down as there are two separate listings on the National Library of Ireland's website.
One listing places the image among a group of photos which the National Library dates as being 'published/created' in 1865.
The other listing places the date somewhere between 1870 and 1890.
For the purposes of this post I've erred on the side of caution, opting for a totally unscientific 1880 date.