Casa Capalbio, Via Giovanni Dionisi 3, Capalbio (2024)

02/08/2024

However you spend your time in Capalbio, and because it's so hot you're heading for a beach, don't for get to explore the beautiful inland of the Maremma. Maybe you're heading for the Etruscan ruins of Vulci, or the medieval villages of Pitigliano and Sovana or the thermal baths of Saturnia, but the the lovely inland regions, the golden fields, the rich farmland, the green hills and valleys and thick forests have miles of roads and lanes and tracks and paths to explore too! 😀

The soil in this region is rich, and the farms here grow a diverse range of crops including cereals, vegetables, fruits, flowers, olives, eucalyptus, and grapes. The road inland and to the north of Capalbio, for instance, crosses a beautiful valley on the road up to Sgrillozzo, and is a terrific introduction to the hinterland before crossing over to beautiful Manciano and then down to the lovely winding Fiora river to the east. You can swim in the river here, along the banks of the Fiora below Ponte san Pietro, and then yes, sure, go to the beach! ☀️

More Maremma @ casacapalbio.com

28/07/2024

This is the view down to the sea from the road that circles the medieval center of Capalbio, looking north towards Ansedonia and the promotory of Argentario in the distance behind it. Hidden behind that nearest hill is Orbetello, on the lagoon between Argantario and the mainland, and only 15 minutes drive away.

Our two apartments look out over the nature reserve on the hill that Capalbio sits on, and down towards the sea. From the windows you can see all the way along the coast, south to Montalto and beyond, and north towards this view. Our gardens are large and private, with parking on the property, have free wifi and air-conditioning, and all the bedding and utensils you'll need for your stay. We're booked solid, but summer is long, the water is warm, and we're still taking inquiries and bookings for September!

Book now @ casacapalbio.com

23/07/2024

Manciano is a lovely medieval town just north of Capalbio with an extraordinary history of war, resistance, civil unrest, and bravery. The coat of arms is a golden lion holding a red shield, which is appropriate, and the town and it's populace were awarded the War Cross for military valor by the Italian state for its fierce resistance against the N***s and fascists during World War Two and the ruthless retribution they suffered undeterred.

This resistance and fortitude is evident throughout it's history; first settled in the Bronze Age, the castle fortress built in 1188, owned by the Aldobrandeschi then ceded to Sovana, conquered in the 14th century by Orvieto, then Montemerano, then the Orsini family. But that wasn't it: Siena took it in 1416, had to give it back to the Orsini in 1455, who managed to keep it for all of two years before the Medici took it. And the population struggled through it all. And survived 😲

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19/07/2024

In the heart of Capalbio's old town is the Rocca Aldobrandesca fortress, build in the middle ages, enlarged and fortified by the Aldobrandeschi family in the 13th century, taken by the Orsini in the 14th, and then by Siena in the 15th. The charming Palazzo Collacchioni palace was built in the 19th century leaning up against and inside one of the fortress towers by a powerful Senator from Arezzo, who liked the town.

The palace has been beautifully restored on three floors, retaining all its original antiques, furniture, and stunning frescos, and features the actual piano that the composer Giacomo Puccini used to play and compose his operas on during his frequent visits to Capalbio on holiday. The whole complex is open to the public for a nominal €1 visitors fee, including the climb up to the top of the highest main tower, which offers absolutely the best views of the whole coast, Argentario, and inland.

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16/07/2024

Lago di Bolsena is a great day trip when you want to escape the beach; Italy's largest volcanic lake with fresh, clear water, lovely little towns around the rim, and great cafes and bars, restaurants, and sandy beaches. You must see the old center of Bolsena and it's old medieval entrance tunnel, which is extraordinary, like stepping into a time machine 😲and modern Bolsena by the lake shore has a lovely long esplanade and beach.

On the western shore is Capodimonte and its imposing Farnese fortress which was used by Pope Paul III, and its beautiful beach and shady trees with lovely cafes and gelato. Just south is Marta, it's terrific seafood restaurants, and a long sandy beach which stretches all the way down and around to the south. And in the south east is a long, beautiful strip of grassy park by the shore, with a bunch of cool bars and cafes and the excellent Da Ivaldo pizzeria. It's the best place to see the sun set before you drive home to Capalbio, too! 😀

Not just beaches @ casacapalbio.com

09/07/2024

Sunset on the beach at Chiarone, looking north towards Ansedonia and the promotory of Argentario. The beach here is miles long, a single unbroken strand of golden sand behind the dunes, with various beaches to choose from along the coast that have cafes and bars, restaurants, showers and toilets, sunbed and umbrella hire, and easy secure parking behind the dunes.

For all the reasons you might come to the Maremma, the rocky coastlines, the rich famlands and golden plains, the green hills and thick wooded forest mountains, the WWF wetlands and protected nature reserves, or the beautiful medieval villages and rich history, it's still the beautiful beaches at the end of the day that you will return to. We have months of beautiful weather and long summer seasons, and still have availability in the second half of September 😀

Learn more @ casacapalbio.com

06/07/2024

We are definitely seeing the effect of what's called the "shoulder season," where the changing climate has meant that summers are longer and hotter so travellers are either going north rather than south, or booking earlier or later holidays, to avoid the heat. Casa Blu is available from 22 September onwards, so book your shoulder season holiday now!

September is our favorite time of the year in Capalbio; the peak season crowds are gone, the weather is lovely, the water is warm, and the evenings are mild and fresh. Casa Blu sleep five in two bedrooms with two bathrooms and baths, a wide shaded bamboo covered patio, a private garden and parking, free internet, heating if you need it, and all the bedding and utensils you'll need for your stay.

Book now! @ casacapalbio.com

30/06/2024

The two great fortifications on Argentario are Forte Filippo overlooking and protecting Porte Ercole, and this one, Forte Stella, further up the western coast and overlooking the sea and coastline all the way south to Civittavecchia. They were both built by the Spanish to guard the State of the Presidi, Italian territory held by the Spanish for 150 years after the Republic of Siena was defeated in the mid 16th century. Orbetello was the capital, ruled by Spanish viceroys, and the Iberian influence of much local architecture comes from this period.

Forte Stella was part of the extensive network of watchtowers and fortresses build to protect the coastline from raiding and invasion, and has a distinctive shape and construction with one fortress built inside and on top of another one. The outer fortress has a massive four sided pointed shape, accessible by only a single long ramp, and the inner fortress on top of it is six point star with very thick and high walls below the battlements and sentry points at the top. For extra points, it used to be surrounded by a moat, too, but happily these days the fortress is fully renovated, open to the public, and hosts exhibitions and cultural events every summer... 😀

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26/06/2024

One of the more remarkable things you can do in Capalbio is visit the Tarot Garden, the singular vision of French-American artist Niki de Saint Phalle. Between 1979 and her death in 2002 she built twenty two monumental sculptures made with reinforced concrete and covered with mirrors and ceramic mosaics. Even the apartment she built and lived in on the property is extraordinary.

Il Giardino dei Tarocchi is five minutes away at the bottom of the hill on the road between Borgo Carige and Pescia Fiorentina. It's open to the public, maintained and operated by a foundation set up after her death, and if it looks familiar it's because there's another large statue of hers displayed proudly on the square opposite the entrance to Capalbio's walled center.

It's an amazing experience, world famous, and just minutes from Capalbio!

23/06/2024

The western and southern coastline of Argentario are spectacular, with fabulous view down to the roack coastline from the provincial road that winds its way around the coast from Porto Santo Stefano in the north down and around the coast to Porto Ercole in the east. There's a section of rough unpaved road in the south, but it's quite doable in a family car if you're slow and careful.

Do it, too, because its absolutely worth it. The coastline is rocky and steep, with fantastic views along the coast and over to the island of Giglio, little exclusive gated communities and villas perched on the cliff tops, and wonderful little coves and bays and lovely rocky little beaches. There's no sand here, but the water is clear, blue, and fresh. You'll have to find parking, tak everything you need with you, and its a steep walk down to the water, but you won't regret it.

The best of the Maremma @ casacapalbio.com

15/06/2024

The Feniglia nature reserve is one of the prettiest areas in the region, a protected forest on the sandbar that runs from the Ansedonia mainland all the way across to Argentario on the southern shore of the Orbetello lagoon. The 6km path that runs along it is accessible by foot or bike, with little sandy pathways through the woods to the beach at regular intervals along its length.

The nature reserve is a protected woodland area of coastal pine, oak, and ash trees, and is rich in widlife including deer, foxes, badgers, woodpeckers, blackbirds, herons, and cuckoos. It's been a protected wildlife reserve since 1971 following extensive reforestation throughout the 20th century by the Italian state. There is an ongoing archeological project here, too, near the Ansedonia entrance to the park, of an ancient iron age Villanovan settlement, who were the earliest ancestors of the Etruscans.

Learn more @ casacapalbio.com

11/06/2024

An extraordinary view from the highest summit of the Uccellina mountains in the Maremma national park, looking out over to Argentario in the distance. First proposed in 1965 in part to protect the area from aggressive development proposals, and constituted officially in 1975, the park today covers 100sq km of coastal area, mountains, wetlands, forest, fields, and scrubland, all accessible by miles of guided trekking routes and bicycle paths.

The thick woods of the Uccellina is actually a single large holm oak forest, but the more humid valleys include ash, maple, acorn, and laurel trees surrounded by fragrant heather, juniper, and rosemary bushes. Careful environmental conservation has preserved the native populations of deer, boar, foxes, hedgehogs, wild cats, and recently, wolves, plus many types of birds including finches, robins, thrushes, nightingales, cuckoos, and blackbirds.

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07/06/2024

If you want to blow all your money on a fancy restaurant in Capalbio, this is the place to do it; Il Frantoio in a charming old building on Piazza della Provvidenza next to the church which combines a cool bar, a cultural association and gallery, and an excellent resturant. Alternatively, there is Ristorante Tullio halfway up the hill towards to old town, or da Maria with its focus on traditional local cuisine just outside the medieval gates.

The best gelato in town is just opposite Maria at La Bottega del F***e, but we often make the effort to drive back down the hill to Capalbio Scalo and the extraordinary Gusto Capalbio. The largest supermarket in the area, short of driving to the big Coop in Orbetello, is the Carrefour just around the corner from the gelateria. There are a couple of quite good pizzerias in the old center of Capalbio, but we often drop in to the cafe behind the IP petrol station on the highway to Orbetello just after the interesection with the road down from Capalbio. Sounds weird and doesn't look like much, but the pizza is excellent!

More about Capalbio @ casacapalbio.com

03/06/2024

Not the first thing you might think of doing this summer, but the ancient Etruscan road systems cut deep into the surrounding bedrock as vertical trenches throughout the Maremma are fascinating! Called Cavoni, they are thousands of years old and their exact function and origin are unknown and found in Spain, Italy, Turkey, and even Jordan, but in the Maremma they are extensive, especially around Sovana, Sorano and Pitigliano.

In some areas they are so wide and massive that they have been incorporated into the modern Italian road system, for instance outside Viterbo and Pitigliano, and the Romans used them as well, adding them to the ancient high road Via Clodia, which was build from Rome north through the Maremma in the 3rd century BC, and which was used initially to move Roman troops north in the conquest of Etruria, and after that for short range commercial traffic between the various towns and lands and the capital.

More Maremma @ casacapalbio.com

30/05/2024

Casa Terra isn't available very often, but it is for the first 10 days of July. It's booked on a long term rental for much of the year and very popular during the summer months, but you can snag it right now. It's a unique rustic apartment, full of artwork, paintings, prints, little antiques, pottery, and bronze objects. The floors are terracotta tiles rescued from a medieval church being demolished, exposed wooden beams, and naked rock walls dug into the hillside to form the storeroom and bathrooms.

The apartment sleeps five and is perfect for families. There are two bedrooms, two bathrooms, one with a full size bath, plus a new sofa bed in the living room. We provide all the kitchen utensils, bedding and towels you need for your stay, there's a washing machine and drying racks, free internet, private parking, and a large patio and garden across the front of the whole apartment looking out over the nature reserve and down to the sea only 10 minutes away.

Book now! @ casacapalbio.com

24/05/2024

A line of sand dunes stretches all the way along the coast behind the sandy beaches all the way from Ansedonia in the north down to Chiarone and beyond. All these beaches can be accessed by driving along the Strada Provinciale Litoranea which runs parallel to the coast, curling behind the WWF protected Lago di Burano Nature Reserve and through the extensive protected areas of uncultivated agricultural land and reclaimed marshland that run along the coast.

This lovely path winds it's way through the dunes at Chiarone, from the fields of inexpensive parking behind them, through the shrubs and trees, and down to the beach and the cafes and umbrellas of La Dogana and Ultima Spiaggia. But there are numerous cute paths through the dunes all the way along the coast, sometimes serviced by little kiosks selling exotic beach towels, sundresses, bikinis and so on.

Be fabulous on the beach @ casacapalbio.com

20/05/2024

Tarquinia is a lovely old town on the highway south of Rome, one of the oldest and most important Etruscan cities, and an UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its wealth of artifacts and famous necropoli. It was an important commercial center as early as the 8th century BC, wealthy because of its control of the minerals and mines in the nearby Tolfa hills, and its nobles produced a long line of kings of ancient Rome before the advent of the Roman empire.

The National Archaeological Museum of Tarquinia houses an unprecedented collection of ancient Etruscan art, including the frescos of the Tomb of the Leopards, which together with the Necropolis of Monterozzi forms the largest document of all ancient painting before the Romans. The museum is housed in the beautiful Vitelleschi Palace, which is itself interesting because it was built in the 15th century by incorporating nearby existing buildings, houses, and city walls, all overseen by various architects who very obviously didn't talk to each other 😂

More ancient Maremma @ casacapalbio.com

11/05/2024

Porto Santo Stefano is an absolutely lovely seaside town on Argentario just a short drive across the bridge and along the coast from Orbetello, and which still retains much of its fishing village heritage and character. The ancient Romans built magnificent villas and baths here, and it was a port of particular importance between the 15th and 17th centuries, when it was occupied and/or fought over by the Republic of Siena, the Spanish, the French, the Austrians, the Bourbons, and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. And they all battled the Saracens and frequent pirate raids.

During the Second World War it was an important base for the Germans in Italy and was almost completely destroyed in fierce bombing by the Allies. Today it is a thriving town boosted by diving and boat hire companies, plus beautiful nearby beaches, Roman ruins, imposing fortress towers, a lovely esplanade teeming with cafes and restaurants serving fresh seafood brought in each day by the fishing boats, and regular ferry services to nearby Giglio.

More Maremma @ casacapalbio.com

07/05/2024

We've got lots of bookings this year, but Casa Blu is free throughout May and June mostly, except for a few weeks, so book your early summer holiday now. It's a bright and sunlight private apartment perfect for families, with beautiful blue details throughout the house, a large open plan kitchen and living room looking out over the nature reserve and down to the sea.

The apartment sleeps five in two bedrooms with two separate bathrooms with baths, and has a wide shaded bamboo covered patio, a private garden and parking, free internet, heating if you need it, and all the bedding and utensils you'll need for your stay. It warm early, the water is lovely, and Capalbio is one of the lovelliest little medieval towns in Italy. Thanks to .alexnotfound for the photos 🥰

Book now! @ casacapalbio.com

01/05/2024

The beach at La Dogana in Chiarone is just five minutes drive down the coast from Capalbio. It's right next to our favorite Ultima Spiaggia, and they're both lovely. The water is clear and fresh, the sand fine and golden, and they're both flanked by miles of free beach in eaither direction if you've got all your own stuff and want a bit more quiet and privacy.

They're both charming because Dogana's wide, shady patios and Ultima's buildings have been built with wood which is now weathered and aged by the sea breezes and weather, so it's all very rustic and authentic feeling. Both have great gelato, terrific bars and cafes, fine restaurants, umbrella and sunbed hire, bathrooms and showers, and relaxed and friendly clientele. They share a huge open parking area in the fields just behind the dunes so there's always somewhere to park, and doggos are welcome.

See you there! @ casacapalbio.com

27/04/2024

The deepest dive you can do into the ancient history of the Maremma is at the archeological park of Vulci, east of Capalbio. Vulci was the largest city and the wealthiest and most influencial of the twelve tribes of Etruscan civilization. They traded extensively with the Sardinians, co-founded ancient Rome, and ruled a large part of the Maremma until finally defeated by the now Roman Empire in 280BC.

The archeological park here features numerous tombs, residences, arches, and temples, the oldest dating back even further to the Bronze age, and many precious and important artifacts are housed in the nearby archeological museum housed in the medieval castle next to the park overlooking the Fiori river, built next to the ancient Devil's bridge crossing the gorge.

More Maremma @ casacapalbio.com

21/04/2024

The gorgeous Cala del Gesso cove on the western coast of Argentario is one of the prettiest little rocky beaches on the promotory, along with Cacciarella further north, Cannelle further south, and Isoletto, Acqua Dolce, and Lunga in the south, closer to Porto Ercole. Plan, get there early to find parking, prepare for the hike down to the beach, and take everything you need with you! The water is fresh and fabulous.

The Strada Provinciale that runs around the coastline is spectacular, with windy turns and an unpaved section in the south west, but it's completely doable in a family car at a careful speed, and offers unparalleled views of the coast, across to the island of Giglio, and down to the various villas, gated communities, and boutique hotels that dot the coastline. If you want a change from the miles of sand, umbrellas, and sunbeds, this is it!

More maremma @ casacapalbio.com

17/04/2024

Both our apartments are still available at the beginning of July, but they won't last long so book now! Casa Terra is a charming rustic apartment full of art, antiques, and pottery, with old terracotta floors, exposed beams, and rock face walls. Casa Blu is light and airy and sunlit, with a shaded bamboo covered patio and a wide open plan living room with large windows overlooking the garden and down to the sea.

Both sleep five and are perfect for families, with private parking on the property, free internet, two bedrooms and two bathrooms each, and with all the kitchen utensils, bedding and towels you'll need for your stay. The apartments are just below the old medieval walls of Capalbio looking down to the sea, and are just 10 minutes drive from the nearest beaches.

Book now! @ casacapalbio.com

13/04/2024

The Maremma is a unique region with a remarkably diverse ecosystems; from the rocky coastlines and sandy beaches, and inland across the rich famlands in the valleys and hillsides, and on and up to the thick wooded forests and mountains. The road inland and to the north of Capalbio, for instance, crosses a beautiful valley on the road up to Sgrillozzo, and is a terrific introduction to the hinterland before crossing over to beautiful Manciano and then down to the beautiful winding Fiora river to the east.

The soil in this region is rich, and the farms here grow a diverse range of crops including cereals, vegetables, fruits, flowers, olives, and grapes. Just as special are the traditional local recipes, still served in many restaurants and trattorias in the region. They are simple and rustic, based on the region's poor peasant heritage, and made from local, seasonal produce, and feature beef, boar, chestnuts, truffels, pecorino cheese, the local olive oils, the white wine from Pitigliano, and the famous Acquacotta soup dish.

More Maremma @ casacapalbio.com