17/05/2022
By Jean Paul Souki Pacheco
My fellow tour companions, a couple from Hiroshima University, spoke about hyper development and how that negatively affects the Japanese countryside. Chef Shunji Kanuka of Kanuka Park told us he’d worked in Ginza as a sous chef, and the impeccable hosts of the storehouse lodge Uzumaki also mentioned coming from Okinawa. At the end of the most high-class dinner I’ve ever eaten, it hit me that these craftspeople chose the countryside of Shimane Prefecture, and I was happy for it.
I haven’t lived in Unnan City for very long, and yet I already feel myself growing attached and protective. Its population has declined in the last decade, naturally as a result of younger people seeking opportunities in the big city. Attending the Inaka Retreat Tour only made me feel more loyal to my new hometown, even as I lamented its slow decline.
Events were arranged in a way that kept us on our feet for just the right amount of time before the hunger set in. The first day included a walk around the charming old streets of Kisuki, followed by a wild boar sausage-making experience and lunch at the aforementioned Kanuka Park. Our cheerful tour guide Taro-san then took us to the Yumura Onsen for a foot bath overlooking the river. He also showed us a secret spot where the natural hot springs pool into a miniature bath right on the rocky banks.
On the second day, we visited Hiikawa Washi and received a brisk tour of seventh-generation papermaker Shinji Idani’s process, alongside a lovely breakfast of dried persimmons, locally grown pickled radishes, sweet beans, potatoes, and tea. From there we made for Mineji Temple to experience Zazen meditation and sutra writing. Zazen was difficult; I was too afraid of being whacked with a wooden stick to effectively relax. But even that felt introspective, as it let me contemplate resisting and accepting life as it was in that moment. Afterwards we had lunch at Sh*taueya, a traditional restaurant high in the mountains, overlooking a misty valley. The view here was jaw-dropping, as was the vista at the Sannouji Terraced Rice Field, where we enjoyed tea with a local groundskeeper and a small introduction to shimenawa rope braids. The tour ended with a night at Uzumaki, a “storehouse lodge” where I experienced a gourmet seven-course meal handcrafted from locally grown ingredients. I never imagined this level of cuisine could be hiding in the countryside of Japan. It was, without equivocation, the best meal I’ve ever eaten.
“Retreat” is an apt descriptor for this tour, as it took us far away from the city and into the mountains, where hamlets dot the landscape and the boundaries between Unnan and Okuizumo are blurred. The events themselves weren’t riotously energetic, but they’re not supposed to be. It is a retreat – mellow, introspective, and relaxing. The countryside’s relaxing energy is highly underrated in a world that values moving faster and faster every day.
I hope there will be more “Inaka” themed tours in the future. I hope they inspire mny to consider living and contributing to such beautiful places as Unnan and Okuizumo. Japan suffers from excessive development, which saps the life out of rural communities. But with more efforts like the Inaka Retreat tour, I hope the area can develop in its own charming, hospitable way, without compromising any of its healing atmosphere. I hope that professionals like those at Kanuka Park and Uzumaki, as well as younger people seeking something new and healing, choose Unnan and Okuizumo in the future.
inaka Retreat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lV3-P5wVZw