Bark Europa

Bark Europa World wanderer and adventure seeker! Join us for a once in a lifetime experience. In a light breeze 30 sails billow from EUROPA, taking her towards the horizon.

Since 1994 the barque EUROPA has roamed the seas of the world and built up the reputation of a ship that really sails. A professional crew of 14 and a complement of 48 voyage crewmembers of all ages and nationalities sail her. Tall Ships enthusiasts, some with no sailing experience, take the wheel, hoist the yards, navigate, etc.

Why Cross an Ocean under sail? ⛵Because some journeys change you forever🗺Sail at nature’s pace, master the art of tradit...
04/02/2025

Why Cross an Ocean under sail? ⛵

Because some journeys change you forever🗺

Sail at nature’s pace, master the art of traditional tall ship sailing, and disconnect from the noise of modern life. Wake up to dolphins surfing the bow, navigate by the stars, and witness the Milky Way stretching across the night sky.

🌊 Choose your adventure ⬇️

🇳🇦 Namibia to Brazil – May 31st to June 30th (4,000+ nautical miles of raw ocean adventure)

www.barkeuropa.com/our-voyages/namibia-brazil

🇧🇷 Brazil to Azores – July 2nd to July 31st (trade winds, open horizons, and celestial nights)

www.barkeuropa.com/our-voyages/brazil-azores

⚓ Or go all in—combine both legs for the ultimate Atlantic crossing!🌊

Are you ready?⛵️

Find all our upcoming voyages here: www.barkeuropa.com/our-voyages

As we sail southward through the Drake Passage, we see the weather changing dramatically.In the Drake Passage, temperate...
03/02/2025

As we sail southward through the Drake Passage, we see the weather changing dramatically.

In the Drake Passage, temperate subantarctic water meets the cold polar waters, resulting in rapid temperature changes. The region where this happens is an oceanic boundary 20–30 km wide, called the Antarctic Convergence Zone. The colder water is very nutrient-rich and of vital importance for the wildlife around. The convergence marks the biological limit of the Antarctic ecosystem.

As Captain Moritz says, “When you see me wearing a lot of extra layers, you know we have passed the Antarctic Convergence Zone!” The extra layers are indeed a good indication that we are nearing Antarctica; however, it is important to measure these changes accurately with factual data.

Meteorological Observations
To do so, we take all sorts of meteorological observations four times a day. Among others, we measure sea water temperature, air temperature, air pressure, wind speed and direction, waves, swell, cloud cover, and cloud types.

For measuring the water temperature, we literally throw a bucket overboard and pull it back, attempting not to bang the hull too many times to avoid waking up those resting from their shifts.

We send the observation data to the KNMI, the Royal Dutch Meteorological Institute, via mail.

Calibration with Satellite Data
With the data collected, institutes like the KNMI and NASA can calibrate their climate and weather models. It is hard to get good data for these regions, especially at sea, as there are no weather stations around.

The weather in Antarctica influences global weather patterns, so it is very important to gather accurate data in these remote regions.

Icebergs
Besides the rapid changes in temperature, another observation will show us that we are nearing the Antarctic continent. Soon, we expect the first icebergs popping up! We have reserved a prize for the voyage crew member who correctly estimates the time and date of when we will see the first iceberg.

An iceberg is only classified as such when it is at least 5 meters high and 15 meters wide.

By Camilla van Wirdum, voyage crew 2/3/2025

Wearing is caring.A sailboat can’t sail into the wind. My boat, the 'Sea Bitch', can point about 45 degrees into the win...
01/02/2025

Wearing is caring.

A sailboat can’t sail into the wind. My boat, the 'Sea Bitch', can point about 45 degrees into the wind which isn’t the greatest, but it’s still a lot more than Europa can do. As we sailed North, the wind wasn’t cooperating as much as we’d like so Moritz made the call to start our training on Wearing the ship.

As a novice sailor, Wearing is a maneuver I had always been interested in. The idea is to change course & sail on a different tack to the wind. Unlike the Bitch, the Bark, doesn’t have enough speed or inertia to turn into the wind quickly enough to spin the yards in the correct direction… at least in our current sea state. There simply isn’t enough time to complete all the necessary tasks required.

Europa needs to turn downwind away from the wind & reset in the opposite direction. It’s kind of like a jibe but in the briefing, Captain Moritz made it VERY clear it was not a jibe. It was wearing! If the wind wasn’t going to cooperate with our heading, one of the watches would be responsible for the manoeuvre. That wasn’t a problem for Red Watch since we were on duty & the plan was that it wouldn’t happen until much later in the evening.

Flash back to day 1: “Plan A might not work, so there has to be a plan B & C” -Beth Expedition Leader. Jan 7, 2025.

No more than 20 minutes into our watch, we were told the wind had shifted & this was going to happen. Under full sail, we met on the main deck & gathered around the capstan for Wearing-101. Vera & Sarah (Permanent crew) were in charge of schooling us on what would be happening. They used a small wooden model to explain how it would be done.

If I have it right, wearing a ship like Europa entails:

Dropping the stay sails, Maincourse, Forecourse, & head sails.
Center the Spanker.
Begin the massive turn (to leeward).
Let the remaining main sails even out downwind to shadow wind on the Foremast.
Once the wind starts spilling in between the Main & Foremasts, brace the Foremast sails to the wind.
Reset & trim the head sails to the wind.
Raise the stay sails.
Reset the spanker.
Clean up the lines on deck.
Coffeee timeeeee in the deck house.

After a quick training session & even quicker rehearsal, the wind was right & it was time to make sail. This has to be a fast manoeuvre but there wasn’t an immediate explosion of activity and bodies running haphazardly in every direction on a rolling ship. Instead, it was a steep crescendo of instruction, deliberate action, heaving, Two-Sixing (if you know, you know) & sweating.

It started to rain. It was dark.

The mood on deck was electric. This was a midnight manoeuvre but we weren’t tired. Exhausted perhaps, but none of us would have given it up for the warm bunk below. I was shadowing Dante (Permanent crew) who briskly walked the slick deck as it pitched and rolled. He had intention in every step. There were so many wet lines, some coiled, some uncoiled & some being hauled. We dined on Clew, Halyard, and Sheet Spaghetti. There were voices in the dark calling “Ready!?”, “Step Forward!”, “Let go [clap]”. This was the sailing I came for. It was church.

I was waiting to feel the ship turn or feel the wind from a different direction but we were all occupied with our responsibilities. I never physically felt we had set Europa on a different tack. We just worked until it was finished. In total, wearing the ship took just over an hour but it seemed like only 10 minutes. Once the Red Watch was over, sleep.

This morning, I woke up with a new heading, new calluses, & a memory I hope I never forget. I wore a 303 ton tall ship in the wet, and dark Drake passage with an amazing crew in a rolling sea.

- Beau, Voyage Crew ANT 3

16 cool people from 6 countries🗺These are the guys who worked tirelessly to make this voyage a memorable one for you. Th...
30/01/2025

16 cool people from 6 countries🗺

These are the guys who worked tirelessly to make this voyage a memorable one for you. They are all here because they love sailing and adventure, they love the camaraderie, and they love being part of the Europa family.

Sailing Europa and servicing this voyage with everything it needs is incredibly hard work. All of the crew multitask, and the borderline between several duties blurs very quickly. Whatever needs to be done will be done—no questions asked. This is the effort and dedication these guys put into their work, no matter if they are tired, sleepy, or if it is freezing cold outside.

This job would be impossible to do without a love for it, similar to many other professions. As we go through our last hours of this voyage, we reflect on the past three weeks and appreciate all the hard work the crew has done to bring the Antarctic experience to us and bring us home safely.

- Guide Richard Simko & Expedition Leader Beth Hitchcock

Behind the scenes of the 2 to 8 watch.Nighttime in Antarctica is special onboard the Europa. The ship is sleeping. Resti...
29/01/2025

Behind the scenes of the 2 to 8 watch.

Nighttime in Antarctica is special onboard the Europa. The ship is sleeping. Resting, after a long days work. It’s quiet onboard. Below decks, in the corridor, you might hear the quiet rumbling of a a washing machine up forward or the low hum from a generator aft, but other than that, nothing. The otherwise lively deckhouse is now silent, and the only sound to be heard outside is the wind, sweeping through the rigging, making the lines and blocks rattle and clonk. The air is crisp and the wind is cold.

We’re drifting now. The engines are off, and the ship is left to itself, as it’s slowly being pushed sideways by the wind. And yet, some are still up at this hour. It’s 2 AM. A small group of people is gathered on the p**p deck next to the wheelhouse. Handover time. For some, their watch is over, for others it has just begun. With their backs to the wind, the off-going watch share their doings in the last six hours, before descending down below. Slowly waking up, the oncoming watch gathers around the entrance to the wheelhouse to hear the plan for the night. A few more hours of drifting, and then we’ll move. We’re not too far from our destination, so we’re not in a rush. The plan is to get there just before breakfast, so we’re ready for an early morning landing. The mate stays on the bridge, watching the movements of the ship and making sure that we’re clear of ice at all times. The three deckhands disappear back into the ship to continue the mandatory nighttime cleaning. Two in the deckhouse, one in the galley.

The “galley fairy” is a rotating role, held by one of the deckhands for two consecutive shifts at a time. The current order of rotation is based on mouth size. Strange. It’s a busy job, being galley fairy. At this time of night, preparing the breakfast is the main task. Ham and cheese needs to be sliced and plated, jugs of juice and milk need refilling and the fridges restocking. Cutlery, plates, bowls, glasses and so on is put out. The efficient galley fairy is done with the breakfast by four o’clock. Oftentimes though, other tasks get in the way. Hoby, the galley’s industrial dishwashing machine, is always on watch. Even at this time of night, when the ship should be sleeping, dishes appear. “How can that be?”, one might ask. That’s just the way it is. The ship never truly sleeps.

Upstairs, the deckhouse cleaning is ongoing. Most nights, it ends with polishing the bar. For some a tedious and boring task, for others an almost spiritual experience. We sacrifice our sweat and time to the golden snake. The circular motions of polishing become meditative. Seeing the mirror-like shine of the brass appear brings a sense of satisfaction and peace. The smell of the polishing cream, Brasso, once sharp and unpleasant, is now familiar and welcome. This has been done every night for years, and will continue to be done every night for years to come. The golden snake is only satisfied for so long, until a new sacrifice is needed.

Four o’clock is coffee time, which is sacred. Sailors have fought for centuries for the right to take coffee breaks, so we shall honor that fight by always doing so. Hot drinks are made in the galley, and nighttime snacks are brought to the wheelhouse. The watch gathers. In a daily routine where there is little time for anything else other than working, eating and sleeping, coffee time is a welcome break where we can talk about non-ship related things. It is also usually around this time that we’ll start to move.

The mate makes the call. The engine is turned on. A deckhand grabs a vhf and goes on ice watch. The job is simple. Look out for ice, and tell the mate what you see. Sometimes it’s done on the foredeck, sometimes, if there is a lot of ice, it’s done from the top of the foremast. From up there you can see so much further. The mate might ask you what general direction looks most clear, or whether an iceberg in a narrow channel looks passable. It’s an important job, and the intel given by the ice watch plays a part in determining where we can and cannot go. “See the big dinosaur-looking one dead ahead? If we keep it on portside, we should be good.”

Before the landing, there’s more work to do. Zodiacs need to be made ready. After dirty landings they need cleaning. For this, they need to be taken apart, and putting them back together is no small feat. Fuel tanks need filling. Life jackets need be made ready. Was it snowing on the last landing? They’re most likely hanging to dry in the forepeak. This and that needs to be fixed. Safety checklists, covering all areas of the ship, are filled out regularly to ensure that all equipment is in working order. Maybe there is a bit of time to work on ongoing maintenance projects. Maybe not.

A few early birds have been up for a while, but now more people are starting to appear. The reflective calm of the night is replaced by the buzzling sound of morning activity. You can hear cutlery clinking and coffee being poured. The ship is slowly waking up. And we are ready to sleep. As people say good morning, we say good night. We hand over and descend down below. Knowing that the ship is well rested. Ready for a new day.

Written by Aske Jensen deckhand
Photos by Richard Simko

🌊 Find all our updates here: www.barkeuropa.com/logbook
🗺 Curious where we are now? www.barkeuropa.com/follow-ship

Second Day on the Drake🌊During the morning watch, the wind picked up to a steady 13 knots from the east. This led to ano...
28/01/2025

Second Day on the Drake🌊

During the morning watch, the wind picked up to a steady 13 knots from the east. This led to another active morning of sail handling. After yesterday morning’s sail setting, we were getting back in the groove of this sailing malarkey! The misty air saturated our jackets, even between the passing rain showers.

Our focus was captured with lines to pull on, ease, and make fast as we set all the square sails. By the next time we looked up to the horizon, the lingering mist had cleared, and a bright horizon was visible, the sun glistening on the rippled waves. It was lovely to see a clear line where the sea meets the sky after the stark contrast we’d had since our last sunny day on the Peninsula.

The red watch knew they were in for a busy four hours when the evening watch started with a briefing using the wooden models to explain the manoeuvre that we would be carrying out in the coming hours. We were currently on starboard tack (with the wind coming to our starboard side), but it was changing. The wind was backing round to the north and then northwest, steadily forcing us to point further west. Before the wind shift, we reduced our sail slightly, working together to take a mast each and strike the staysails and gaff topsail. What a treat to have been able to set these on the Drake!

After this, it was time to clew up the courses in preparation for wearing ship! For this, it would take the entire watch team, plus any extras still up. We bore away from the wind, Niccolo at the helm, steering us to port all the way around until the wind was coming over our port side. During this manoeuvre, we were focused on the smaller tasks, not noticing the overall movement of what was going on! We hauled on the starboard braces, bringing around all the yards, lines covered the decks as we tacked over the headsails, and began setting the courses again on our new tack.

With a small debrief from Captain Moritz on the main deck, we all came away feeling warm and a great collective achievement to have calmly worn ship in the Drake Passage!

Out in the head rig, the sheets were overhauled. The view of the ship with all the square sails set, sailing into the thick mist and beginning to heel in the increasing winds, was exhilarating!

- Beth Hitchcock, Expedition Leader 23/1/2025

🌊 Find all our updates here: www.barkeuropa.com/logbook
🗺 Curious where we are now? www.barkeuropa.com/follow-ship

First Day Back to SeaWe started the morning watch with some sail setting. The light winds made for forgiving conditions ...
27/01/2025

First Day Back to Sea

We started the morning watch with some sail setting. The light winds made for forgiving conditions as we acquainted ourselves with which lines to pull in which order to set the topsails. In the southwesterlies, we headed north, passing Smith Island to our starboard side. As the wind was light, we were able to keep on setting more sails. From the topsails, we moved to some staysails, the jibs, and the spanker. Finally, we set the fore course just in time for lunch.

A busy watch is always a good way to start the sleepy days, getting back into the routine of the watch system again.

By evening, the wind veered round to a westerly, gradually dropping and forcing us to furl all the square sails we’d diligently set. To prevent the flapping of the staysails, we sheeted them in all the way. With the wind eventually turning to north-northwest, the square sails had been of little use. However, the apparent wind of the staysails still allowed for some pressure to hold us from rolling – offering us all a better night's sleep and a happier galley team. The calm seas allowed all to get eagerly involved in the sail handling without a yellow bucket to hand. Although after a quiet Drake on the way south, many had their fingers crossed for a more intense sailing experience on the journey north.

- Guide Richard Simko, 22/1/2025

🌊 Find all our updates here: www.barkeuropa.com/logbook
🗺 Curious where we are now? www.barkeuropa.com/follow-ship

Danco IslandJust as we left it last night, the mountains were visible in all directions as the morning sun shone on the ...
25/01/2025

Danco Island

Just as we left it last night, the mountains were visible in all directions as the morning sun shone on the crevassed and powdery slopes of ice. The southern entrance to the Errera Channel had ice trapped in the constraints of Rongé Island to the west and the Arctowski Peninsula, part of the ‘mainland’ Antarctic Peninsula, to the east. The southwesterly winds had blown the bergy bits and icebergs into the entrance, but luckily, we were able to pass by with ease and find Danco Island.

Danco Island brings us back to the story of the Belgica voyage as we move north again into the region where Gerlache pioneered the charting of this coastline in 1897–99. Emile Danco was a member of the expedition who died on 5 June 1898 during their polar night, leaving the men of the Belgica with a challenging loss during the endless darkness south of the polar circle. Danco was a Belgian geophysicist on board.

As we motored into the channel, many of us were enjoying the possibility of staying out on deck, not needing to retreat to the deckhouse in this relatively warm weather.

The west side of Danco Island was lined with brash ice and growlers, so a northern shore landing site was chosen instead. We passed an ice floe with two Weddell seals basking in the sun on our shuttle to the shore. Gentoo penguins strolling the beach and returning from fishing trips welcomed us ashore. They were sparsely spread on the beach, but the smell was strong from the dark rocks up the slope, where there was a hive of activity as young chicks were fed and protected from circling skuas.

We meandered our way along the beach, passing the remains of Base O, a British Antarctic Survey station that was only used for a few years from 1956 to 1959. The men from this station made the first journey up onto the Forbidden Plateau, leaving from Portal Point in 1957, at Cape Recluse, part of the peninsula further north. All that remains of this hut today are the concrete foundations and a small plaque with some dates of the scientific work carried out here.

We continued along the beach, photographing a number of deeply incised penguin highways and heading for a well-developed route up the snow slope. At this time of the morning, the snow was still firm, making the walk a lot easier.

Winding between the penguin colonies, avoiding highways and stray penguins, we observed the chicks enjoying the warmth of the sun while the parent gentoos vigilantly watched the skuas above.

At the top of the snow slope, we gained a view over the crest, giving 360° views of the peninsula and Rongé Island. The glaciated steep mountains reflected off the glassy water, only obstructed by the blocks of ice scattered in swirls on the surface. The now-obligatory moment of silence commenced at the summit as we looked out, feeling present and content in our surroundings. Booms of ice falling caught our attention in the otherwise silent minutes. On the descent, we caught sight of one of these as a high serac broke off, bringing with it a cloud of powdery snow.

We returned to EUROPA using the beach closest to the ship to shuttle. Here the ice was passable now, with the help of some ice shoving and careful route choice. Before midday, all were back on board as we started the transit into Andvord Bay, where Neko Harbour lies.

Neko Harbour

What a last landing it was. Europa slowly glided on mirror-like water. There was not a single sign of wind or breeze to sculpt ripples into the surface. The ice and glacier kingdom we are so fortunate to visit was putting up its best face, reflecting into the water around us. Europa slowed down near the rocky beach of Neko Harbour. The place was stunning, with glaciers surrounding the ship from all sides. The one next to the landing beach was particularly volatile, with frequent glacial calvings.

The landing site was accessible, and soon the whole landing crew was ashore. From there, we started our way up to the lookout point. It was a bit of a hike uphill, and the afternoon heat made the snow very soft. Soon we made our way to the rocky patch higher on the slope. Luckily, there were no skuas nesting this season, even though they very much prefer this spot. There was a sole skua sitting just in the middle of the rocky patch. We went slowly around, carefully avoiding the bird. The view from the top was magnificent, with the glacier right below us washed with the blue water of the bay, so clear one could mistake it for a tropical beach.

By popular demand, we held five minutes of total silence, just admiring the scenery and listening to the sounds all around us. The penguins cawing, waves splashing on the beach, the glacier giving out constant sounds of movement, and then, when calving happened, it felt like gunfire. During this moment of silence, we reflected on the past couple of days we spent on the southern continent—on all the sites we visited, the people we met, and the friendships we forged. It was an unforgettable moment we will cherish for the rest of our lives.

After this experience, we made our way down to the beach. Nobody really wanted to go back to the ship, as if they wanted to soak in every bit of this last Antarctic experience. It also reminded us that even though it is beautiful, it is still a dangerous and untamed place. We were reminded that Mother Nature is still the boss around here.

Unfortunately, we could not stay here forever. Everything comes to an end—even our time ashore. Back on the ship, we started motoring, still in good weather and surrounded by beauty. It was the perfect time to spend some time in the rig without the swell of the Drake Passage. But there were no more landings left. We were heading home. Farewell, Antarctica.

The deck was busy all evening as we watched and took in the vast landscape of snow-laden mountain peaks tumbling down to the iceberg-strewn glassy sea below. What more could be added to this special evening? Just as people began retreating to their bunks—particularly the white watch, who would be starting us off at 0800 tomorrow—there was a call for whales. On our port side was Anvers Island, and Waifs Islands lay to our starboard. We were not the only ones enjoying this narrow passage. Groups of humpback whales were visible in different directions and distances.

Captain Moritz turned the engines off, leaving only the Antarctic silence and the screech of each surfacing humpback. Each time, hands were thrown up to point in the direction of a feeding whale, a surfacing whale, or a fluke. They appeared to be full of energy, playing and tossing their flippers to slap them on the water’s surface.

It was a magical evening that rewarded those who stayed up late. The wildlife playing amongst the glassy waters and crisp, clear skies revealing all the features of the mountains kept us from returning to our bunks far beyond what would seem reasonable. What a send-off from this continent.

- Expedition Leader Beth & Guide Richard

Sailing with Purpose: Bark EUROPA’s Commitment to Research🔬We believe sailing is more than an adventure. It’s about forg...
22/01/2025

Sailing with Purpose: Bark EUROPA’s Commitment to Research🔬

We believe sailing is more than an adventure. It’s about forging connections, discovering the unseen, and contributing to the preservation of the oceans.

Through collaborations like we turn our voyages into an opportunity for meaningful scientific research, engaging our trainees and crew in studying the remote waters of Antarctica.

💡 What is FjordPhyto?
FjordPhyto, a project from Institution of Oceanography, focuses on phytoplankton—microscopic organisms that are the foundation of the marine food web. These organisms not only produce more than half the planet’s oxygen but also play a key role in carbon cycling. By gathering water samples along the west Antarctic Peninsula, we help scientists understand these vital ecosystems and the changes they experience over time.

⛵️ What We Did This Voyage
This voyage, we completed two rounds of the FjordPhyto project. The first took place earlier at Orne Harbour, where guests learned how to use the equipment and conduct the sampling process. By the time we reached Wiencke Island, everyone had become more confident and efficient. Under the golden light of the evening sun, we headed out with zodiacs to collect samples and measure data like salinity, temperature, and more.

Later, we brought the microscope out on deck, taking a closer look at the phytoplankton we’d collected. Lively conversations and curiosity filled the air as we examined these tiny, incredible organisms—evidence of the unseen world that sustains life in the vast ocean around us.

📖 Read more: www.barkeuropa.com/logbook/citizen-science-sea-fjordphyto-aboard-bark-europa

🔬Find out more: www.barkeuropa.com/sustainability-and-research

Photos by Richard Simko












Sailing Into the Heart of Antarctica’s Wonders🇦🇶We stepped ashore on Pleneau Island, home to countless gentoo penguins n...
21/01/2025

Sailing Into the Heart of Antarctica’s Wonders🇦🇶

We stepped ashore on Pleneau Island, home to countless gentoo penguins nesting between rocky outcrops. Each rookery hummed with life, as chicks nestled close and parents guarded their homes.

From snow-covered hilltops, we marveled at Europa anchored below, surrounded by humpback whales gracefully surfacing in the tranquil waters. The scale of this untouched wilderness is humbling, a reminder of nature’s raw beauty.

Later, our zodiacs brought us closer to towering icebergs. What seemed small from the distance became immense walls of ice, shimmering in shades of blue. This is a place where every moment feels larger than life.

The day ended with EUROPA sailing through the Lemaire Channel, its glassy waters reflecting golden light as we enjoyed hot chocolate on deck. Moments like this remind us why we sail, to experience the world in its purest, most breathtaking form.

Are you ready to join the adventure and explore the wonders of Antarctica for yourself?

📖 Read the full story of our Antarctic adventure: www.barkeuropa.com/logbook/pleneau-island-and-lemaire

📸 Tag someone who dreams of exploring Antarctica or follow us for more unforgettable moments from the edge of the world!

Photos by Richard Simko

As with every adventure, success in terms of alignment with our plan was not guaranteed. We aimed for Barrientos Island,...
18/01/2025

As with every adventure, success in terms of alignment with our plan was not guaranteed. We aimed for Barrientos Island, which lies on the northern side of Greenwich Island in the South Shetland Islands. Moritz and Terry carefully edged our way past The Watchkeeper, a rocky outcrop north of Table Island, both prominent features used by the sealers to navigate in from the Drake Passage into the north of English Strait. Mainly useful when the conditions allow them to be seen. Luckily for us, the fog lifted, forming a low ceiling overhead, but enough visibility to see the tumbling glaciers of Robert Island to our port and Greenwich Island to our starboard. In the surrounding waters, harsh jagged rocks of basalt grew out of the crashing waves. With a current pushing us south through the strait, it was a quick passage between the small islands.

As we drew closer, we could make out Barrientos Island and, to its east, Cecilia Island, which we rounded into a bay to anchor. With the weather forecast to deteriorate with strong winds and snow from 2 pm, we hatched a plan to land as soon as we arrived. The galley team quickly produced a delicious pot of soup and some crunchy sourdough, warming us through again before we gathered in the deckhouse for our first pre-landing briefing.

By 12:30, we were all ashore and entertained by the charismatic penguins that dominate this beach. To the west, the island’s thick mat of mosses was avoided as we slowly maneuvered where we could on the crowded beach. Chinstrap penguins occupied the higher rocky ground, occasionally showing off their talents by throwing their heads back and cawing in synchrony. The gentoos settled for the lower slopes, giving their most aggressive call when the roaming skuas and giant petrels prowled along the beach, eyeing the fluffy chicks that the adults aggressively protected. Often there were two little heads peeking out from under the adult penguins, but some had just one. Amongst the penguins, some whale bones were visible. One vertebra was being put to good use by one penguin as shelter from the wind.

Over on the western shore of the beach, we could see a pair of elephant seals. Their rusty skin was starting to show the first signs of molting. They were quite unfazed by the bustling beach of penguins and circling predators overhead.

On returning to Europa, the wind began to pick up as expected. The last of the zodiac rides was slightly wetter than the outbound journey. Teamwork still prevailed in the windy conditions, and before long, both Blacky and Grey were up on the sloop deck.

After a second lunch in the lounge, we gathered in the deckhouse to discuss the life of the penguins we will see on this trip. It was a cozy atmosphere with the windows steamed up, a few drinks on the go, and pink faces from the outside air.

The last 24 hours of pushing the speed on the Drake was now turning out to have been the very best idea. We were anchored up in Discovery Bay by dinnertime, thuds of damp snow hitting the deck as snow accumulated on the side of the mast, yards, and lines. Coils blew horizontally. Additional shackles of anchor chain were let out. Anyone daring to go out on deck would widen their stance to stabilize themselves. Needless to say, it was not zodiac-launching weather! We happily shared photos, played games, and read past accounts of Antarctic voyages before dinner was served.

The evening went on in the deckhouse with a quiz as we waited out the storm. The true Antarctic conditions reminded us all that the weather makes the final decisions on our plans. Our plans for tomorrow were read with more curiosity for the outcome than previously.

Photo 1-5 Lucky Harthoorn
Photo 6-10 Richard Simko

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Ocean Wanderer

Since 1994 the barque EUROPA has roamed the seas of the world and built up the reputation of a ship that really sails. A professional crew of 14 and a complement of 48 voyage crewmembers of all ages and nationalities sail her. Tall Ships enthusiasts, some with no sailing experience, take the wheel, set sails, assist with manoeuvres, navigation, weather observations, furling the sails on the yards and much more.

In a light breeze 30 sails billow from EUROPA, taking her towards the horizon. Our voyages bring us to remote islands and cities all over the world, giving you the possibility to step on board halfway through a long ocean crossing.

Bark EUROPA follows the favourable winds of traditional sailing routes. This has brought her to all continents, sailing the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Ocean, thus earning her nickname Ocean Wanderer. From December to March in the Southern hemisphere summer EUROPA conducts expeditions to the Antarctic Peninsula.

EUROPA also participates in Tall Ships Races, the largest international ocean races for sail-training ships in the world. Races occur annually in various parts of the world with thousands of spectators. Our crew and guests are international and of different ages, united in their search for adventure and new experiences.