31/07/2021
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Upon reaching the clearing after Middle Camp, a sea of green hills on the south, and a majestic Machapuchare on the east—set against a deep blue sky—made up for the landscape. A blissful quiet filled the air, which was then broken by the sounds of a radio.
A flock of sheep suddenly appeared out of nowhere. At least a hundred of them, walking, pushing, chewing. A shepherd came along, carrying an old FM radio, whistling, trying to push the sheep out of the way, to clear the trail for me to pass them by.
My brother and I had been walking for the past five hours or so. And we were already tired for the day. Our destination is High Camp, and we ask the shepherd how much more we have to walk. “You still have another two hours to go,” said Chandra Ghale, a resident of Lwang, a Gurung village. Ghale said he, with his cousin, has been camping out along the Mardi Himal trek trail, in the middle of nowhere, for the past week, carrying just enough food supply for them. “The grass here is great for sheep,” he told us. “So, we always come up for the sheep when the grass is green.”
The place where we were at—somewhere between Middle Camp and High Camp along the Mardi Himal trek—offers a view that is sublime, to say the least. Lush ridges, an uninterrupted view of Annapurna South, Himchuli and Machapuchare, and hills that stretches as far as the eye can see. For a while, you forget just hours ago you were caught in the chaos of everyday city life.
After a quick conversation, we bade Chandra goodbye and started making our way up the hill. We had only began walking earlier this morning, after a night bus ride from Kalimati, Kathmandu, to Lakeside, Pokhara, and a jeep ride from Baglung Bus Park to Sidhing.
The route we were on is not usually what people take while doing the Mardi Himal trek. Most start their journey from Kande, then stop at Forest Camp (2,600m) for the day via Australian Camp. The second night is usually spent at High Camp, and then th