11/06/2022
Kia Ora voyageurs, today’s post is on uniforms in the British army and how they changed. The red coat is the distinctive feature of the British regiment of the line (infantry) and soldiers were nicknamed “Tommy Lobster” due to this colour. The Royal Navy sailor was commonly referred to as “Jack Tar” as tar was used to waterproof and keep supple the rope rigging of a ship as well as waterproofing. (‘Jack’ is the traditional name in the RN for a sailor, and the ‘Andrew’ refers to the Navy.)
Fighting in North America had its impact on British uniforms, as did the campaigns in India and South Africa. The “beautiful red coats, our shakoes (head wear), our white belts and glittering breastplates “ made ideal bulls eyes for an enemy sharpshooter. Fighting in the undergrowth in North America saw the reduction in length of the red greatcoat, and a short shell jacket was widely used in India. The Indian Mutiny of 1857-58 saw the large scale adoption of practical uniform, two white jackets and sufficed for most. Khaki (from Persian for dust coloured) trousers, turbans and tunics were adopted in a hasty manner. But the Army’s attachment to the red coat proved remarkably durable, partly because of its ‘seductive principal.’
Henry Mayhew, in his interview based study of the London labour and the poor, thought it a major ingredient in soldiers’ success with ‘dollymops”: servant girls, nursemaids and shop girls, neither professional pr******tes or of adamantine virtue. Nursemaids in particular, he maintained, were always eager to succumb to what he called ‘scarlet fever.’
The widespread use of khaki as a colour made its appearance in the Mutiny when white uniforms were dyed locally with materials that included coffee, curry, powder and mulberry juice. Washing white gear took far longer than khaki coloured clothing, thus a good colour for service.
However, khaki was never really popular with soldiers who preferred to cut a more flamboyant figure. It did not become standard campaign dress in India until the Second Afghan War of 1878. In the Zulu war of 1879, British regulars still fought in red coats. But it could be costly. In 1881, the 58th lost 171 officers and men at Laing’s Nek in South Africa attacking the Boers in close order, bayonets fixed and Colours flying, in the expectation that the tough Boer farmer would be terrified by the spectacle. They weren’t and shot the British column to pieces. The Egyptian campaign of 1882 was the last time British soldiers wore red coats in action, though it remained standard peacetime walking-out dress until 1914.
The infantryman lived like some huge red hermit crab with most of his possessions girt about his person. In the 18th century, buff leather cross belts with a brass shoulder-belt plate, at their intersection (chest level), whitened with pipe-clay supported an ammunition pouch and bayonet. A white linen haversack painted brown or yellow, sat squarely on his back. From 1805 a wood framed canvas haversack came into service. It was universally hated and soldiers would loot French casualties for their more comfortable calf skin backpacks. The soldier’s grey greatcoat, and tent, if he had one, were often rolled and strapped to the top of his haversack. The whole assembly was anything but comfortable especially if you were wearing your leather stock around your throat. This was a 2 inch Leather band or ‘stock’ that wrapped around your throat in order to keep your head upright and so adopt a ‘manly bearing.’ It is still to be seen in the US Marine Corps, hence their nickname ‘leathernecks.’
I’ll leave the last words to Rifleman Benjamin Hariris who when he disembarked in Portugal in 1808 remarked: “ The weight I toiled under was tremendous and I often wonder how I found the strength to endure it. Its weight would impede the free motions of a donkey. Besides my well filled kit, was a greatcoat rolled on top, my blanket and my camp kettle, my haversack stuffed full of leather for repairing my shoes, together with a hammer and other tools..ships biscuit, beef for three days. I also carried my canteen filled with water, my hatchet and rifle, and eighty rounds of ball cartridge in my pouch.”
The inexperienced made a rod for their own backs by carrying non essentials. Officers however, bless them, were not expected to carry their own kit, which frequently travelled with the regiment baggage or, as was frequently the case, on privately-purchased horses or mules escorted by a soldier-servant. Even when stripped down to the basics, an officer’s kit could still be substantial. William Keep pruned his portmanteau to contain: “half a dozen shirts only, one pair of boots, pantaloons and a great coat, four pairs of cotton stockings and three of worsted.” Lt Gleig of the 85th settled for two portmanteau that contained: “my regimental jacket with all its appendages of wings, lace etc, two pairs of grey trousers, sundry waistcoats, white coloured and flannel, a few changes of flannel drawers, half a dozen pairs of worsted stockings and as many of cotton. I also had six shirts, two or three cravats, a dressing case completely filled, one undress pelisse, three pairs of boots, two pairs of shoes with night caps, pocket handkerchiefs etc in proportion…” (Poor old Tommy Lobster, or Tommy Atkins as he was later to be called.)
After all that, time to do some washing! Stay we’ll, nga mihi Peter