BELAYING ON SNOW - USING THE HIP BELAY.
When ascending on snow, climbers give quicker and less formal belays using an ice axe, or they set up belays using established snow anchors. No matter what the belaying technique, every snow belay should be as secure and dynamic as possible to help limit the force on the anchor.
The hip belay can provide a more gradual, dynamic belay than a belay using a belay device, but it takes more practice to execute correctly (see my next post all about HIP BELAYING). Plan your stance so your body takes the force, which is dissipated as much as possible by the belay. The dynamic, shock-absorbing quality of climbing rope also helps to minimize chances of an abrupt stop to a fall.
Set up a belay close to the climbing difficulties. To belay the lead climber, get out of the line of fire by setting up the belay stance to one side of the fall line. If the leader is heading up on a diagonal, get outside any point where that climber's route can cross directly above you. On a ridge crest, it is not always possible to predict a fall line and plan a belay in advance. If a rope mate slips off one side of the ridge, the best tactic may actually be to jump off the opposite side, with the rope running over the ridge and thus saving both climbers.
In order to learn these types of conceps join us in our next course July 2024:
https://mountain-happiness.com/wilderness-first-response...
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