03/06/2024
Riding the Edge: Siargao’s Gnarliest Tale
Siargao Island, nestled in the southeastern region of the Philippines, was once a sleepy paradise before it gained fame for its breathtaking beauty and world-class surf. As one delves into the kaleidoscope of memories, it serves as a bittersweet reminder of a time long gone—those moments of magic confined to the stories we tell.
Everyone enjoys a good island story, and Tasmanian adventurer Kyron Rathbone has something to share for the first time. Having called the island home and has seen its best and worst. Join us as he unveils his experiences, inviting us to revel in the wonder of Siargao's untold tales from the past.
"The island is changing, but the island has no change," Kyron would often say, and "Waya Sinsilyo!" This phrase always brought back memories of the good times on the island, where everyone used to "utang" because there was no ATM and smaller bills were always hard to come by.
"I first came here in 2011," he recalls. "I was invited by a good friend, Andrew Bickell, who took over management at the Boardwalk Resort." Rathbone's adventure began with a flight to Surigao, mistakenly thinking it was Siargao. "I thought everyone was crazy, but it turns out I was the crazy one." Despite the mix-up, Rathbone eventually arrived at Cloud 9, describing it as "big, onshore, and no one's out." Instantly feeling at home, he became the go-to guy for kiteboarding, paddleboarding, filmmaking, and resort photography for a year. Reflecting on those solitary moments, he shares, "Sometimes, it’s so windy, and just me out there, and I got Cloud 9 to myself on a stand-up paddleboard, thinking how good life is right now."
Recalling a memorable kiteboarding session, Rathbone vividly describes his experience launching his kite at Mama’s Grill, Marlo Gallardo and Manuel Melindo helped set up my kite on the beach," he reminisces. "I ventured upwind to Cloud 9 amidst triple overhead sets, with the onshore Amihan winds just by myself." As he attempted to execute a daring aerial maneuver near Jacking Horse, Rathbone found himself unexpectedly propelled higher by the strengthening winds. "I’ll never forget what happened next," he muses, hinting at an exhilarating twist in his adventure.
Reflecting on his second day kiteboarding in Siargao, Rathbone vividly recounts the harrowing incident. "I remember being in the air, flying towards the tower," he begins. "Just before I could maneuver, I landed on the water, hitting the reef and witnessing my kite plummet over the tower's apex." As the lines entangled, Rathbone found himself caught in a terrifying loop, hurtling upwards before crashing into the tower's side. "I was left hanging off the tower, 4 meters in the air," he recalls, vividly portraying the aftermath of the ordeal. "Concussed and disoriented, I had no idea where I was. Andrew and his daughter thought I was dead - my second day in the Philippines, my very first kiteboarding session in Siargao. I nearly died; it was epic."
Word spread quickly - through the coconut express and hammock “chismis” before long, everyone had heard about the Tasmanian kiteboarder's mishap with the tower. With lines cut and gear damaged, Rathbone returned to the boardwalk, only to find a group of local boys eagerly awaiting his next attempt. Despite still being concussed, their enthusiastic cheers egged him on: "Do it again, do it again, do it again!"
As Kyron Rathbone and the local boys tackled the daunting task of repairing his equipment, hours flew by in a blur of determination. With lines meticulously fixed and gear inflated, they returned to Jacking Horse. However, news of Kyron's return to the waves swiftly spread, drawing a curious crowd. Initially content with navigating the calmer waters, Kyron soon found himself the subject of a daring wager proposed by his friend Dencio Dizon. With bets laid against him, Kyron fearlessly embraced the challenge, venturing out to Cloud 9. Riding the towering waves on his trusty twin-tip board, he soared through the air, effortlessly maneuvering through the 8-10 foot swells. Little did the spectators know, Kyron's decade-long experience in kiteboarding had finely attuned him to the ocean's rhythms. Reflecting on the eventful day, Kyron fondly recalls Dencio's cheeky antics. “ He made money that day!” Turning the impromptu bet into a memorable island tale.
“The first time I kited in General Luna town was an absolutely mind-blowing experience. I went down the beach in front of the Karaoke bars and set my kite on the sand. There weren't many people around at this stage, and the kids were in school and such. I started kiting in and out in front of the pier, doing my standard bag of flat water tricks - I was more into the wave stuff, but I still had a few tricks up my sleeve.
The kids at school could see the water, and I guess they spotted the kite during lunch break. All the kids ran all the way down to the beach and just lined up, like hundreds of them. Before I knew it, every kid from the school was across the road watching me.” It wasn't just the local children who were captivated by Kyron's aerial display. “Then the doctors and nurses from the medical center, people from the fish market, karaoke bars, everyone was lined up there, it literally felt like there were 500 people along the shore.”
As Kyron entertained the growing crowd with his daring moves, the unexpected arrival of the police officers added an element of drama to the day. ”I was kiting for about 20 minutes, and everyone was just cheering, screaming, losing their minds as I laughed while trying big airs for them. The next thing I saw, the police rocked up, and one of them had a stick and started whacking the kids to go back to school. And the kids were running away from the cops laughing, and all of a sudden more cops came, maybe 15 police officers, they all seemed to come down to the boulevard and get all the kids to go back to school. It was such a bizarre experience to see that happen, and all of a sudden the police came down to the beach and asked me if I could stop kiting, so I did for 10 minutes, landed the kite, and sat there for a while,” he explains, reflecting on the surreal moment.
As soon as the coast was clear, Kyron wasted no time in returning to the water, much to the delight of the eager spectators. “All the kids went back to their class, and everyone went back to work. I went back up again after a while, no kidding, the kids ran back out again. The police were waiting and trying to catch them again.”
Before Kyron crossed paths with Jaime Rusillion, the former beloved mayor of General Luna, a chance encounter set the stage for a lasting bond. "I saw his carpool out, black windows and stuff, out came Jaime and 5 other guys, all dressed quite well with their gold chains." Though unaware of Jaime's identity at the time, Kyron recognized the significance of his arrival. "Little did I know it was the mayor, but I knew he was someone important since he stepped out of that car."
Jaime's genuine interest in Kyron's kiteboarding left a lasting impression on the adventurous Tasmanian. "He actually came to talk to me on the beach and was so happy to see kiteboarding," Kyron recalls fondly. "He hasn’t seen it before, and he told the police to go and get the rest of the kids out of the school so they could come and watch me. After that, I put on another show for an hour kiteboarding. From that day on, he just called me the crazy Tasmanian devil, and we always got along really well after that, always friendly towards me."
“My kitesurfing memories in Siargao are an absolute blast," he exclaims. "Being the first or the only one there for basically two years, kiting by myself, kiting at Cloud 9 and big solid 6-foot Stimpys just with one other friend after a couple of years of being there. Getting barreled with the kite and having to keep your kite high, it was quite tricky. When I discovered that place for kiting, I was just addicted to it. It was hard work to get to but the downwind was fun all the way back to Cloud 9 through Rock Island and Jacking horse was absolutely special.”
Following the aftermath of the formidable typhoon Yolanda, which fortunately veered northward, Siargao found itself graced with colossal waves and powerful winds. “It was the first time I took the kite out at Cloud 9 in a proper solid brace down the line kitesurfing, “how you want it” because usually the good winds were northeasterly there so it's constantly pulling you off the wave. That one big solid day - I was probably kitesurfing for about three hours. So many days by myself in the water in Siargao and I feel like that has probably changed now whether you are surfing, SUPing or kiting.”
For Kyron, the allure of Siargao lies in its unpredictability, offering moments of pure bliss amidst the chaos of the waves. “I like the big onshore stuff no matter what I was on. Even surfing in Cloud 9, I surfed so many days alone, sometimes with Pet Pet or Mai Mai paddling out, eventually Kai Kai would paddle out on the big days with me. There were not too many people because nobody wanted to break their boards and it was always closing out but you would always get one or two good ones after 10 closeouts. I kind of enjoyed it more than the peak season when it was perfect offshore but 40 guys out.”
Kyron reflects, “Cloud 9 is the best time for the big cross onshore days, sometimes the wind dropped out for a bit and you just get these moments of gold - just absolute magic but to get those you have to spend time on the island, you couldn’t just come for a two - week holiday, hey you might score, but you probably not gonna score.”
As Kyron Rathbone's tales of adventure unfold, it becomes a reminder that the true essence of Siargao lies not only in its picturesque landscapes, but also in the profound connection forged between man and nature.
"My fondest memories of Siargao really revolve around the people," Kyron reminisces warmly. "I forged countless friendships during my time there, with locals and foreigners alike. There were just some beautiful humans – funny, full of laughter, and always up for a good time. Whether it was hanging out at Mama’s Grill in the early days, enjoying Triple A’s, or savoring pork barbecue, chicken skewers, and kinilaw, every moment was special. Kamatay, grabe ka lami!"
"My biggest inspiration was Kai Kai," Kyron reflects with heartfelt sentiment. "He embodied the happiest times on the island, for sure. I think about him every day, and I miss him dearly. That's why I have his name tattooed on my hand – so I can look at it and feel proud of him. Kai kai was just a little shredding grommet, but I always knew he was going to do great things for Siargao. His spirit lives on in the waves and in the hearts of all who knew him."
Kyron’s experiences on the island can be an inspiration for anyone seeking fulfillment and peace. Embracing the slow pace of life, which allows you to truly savor each moment and appreciate the present. Connecting with the people and forming meaningful relationships and bonds is essential. Being open and willing to listen to the stories and wisdom of your surroundings can lead to valuable lessons and insights. Respecting the land and the community fosters harmony and sustainability, and in turn, you’ll find that they give back generously. Finally, Kyron reminds us to enjoy the little things—those simple pleasures that often bring the greatest joy.
Kyron is currently in his hometown, just recently married to Isobel and with no social media anymore - his life is better without it.
And hey, if you want to stay in the loop on all things Siargao—what's hot, what's not, and all the latest updates—don't forget to like and subscribe! 📲 Get exclusive access to insider tips, upcoming events, and insider insights straight from the island. 🌟 Hit that like button and subscribe for your ticket to the Siargao experience! 🌊🔔
https://www.facebook.com/SleepyGypseaSiargao
