27/01/2021
Saling Khar
A scenic and historic tourist spot of Gilgit Baltistan
Saling Khar is one of the most beautiful and attractive tourist spots of Ghanche Baltistan which is surrounded by lofty mountains on one side and vast grassy lands with crystal clear spring water streams and the famous river Shyoke on the other side. Saling village lies on the left side of Saling Khar is the gateway of Mashabrum peak, K 7 and the famous and highest trekking rout Ghandoghoro Pass which leads to K2 and Concordia.
Saling Khar can be seen from Khaplu town. It is just 15 kilometers off from Khaplu – the administrative headquarter of Ghanche district.
Access to this beautiful and scenic tourist spot has now become easier after building a two way concrete bridge over Shyoke river, replacing the old wooden suspension bridge during last year. Both the old and new bridges are located close to each other, offering unique postures for tourists.
This scenic and fascinating tourist spot has geared with manifold feachers and offers lots of outdoor activities for adventure and nature lovers. The kayaking lovers can trial their thrill in the boisterous River Shyoke with full skill..While the crystal clear spring water streams and still lotchs offers splendid ambiances to the boat lovers to have boat ride to the scenic surroundings. Camping in the lush grassland has its own taste where crystal clear water streams and the rocky landscape make the stay memorable. The district administration has also built a stadium to facilitate sports lovers.
Dongsi Khar.
The ancient Saling Kahar (Palace) was known as Dongsi Khari – a Palace perched on the top of a mountain. This palace had been built by Yabgo Ibrahim Khan in early 1600 AD on the edge of a hill named Podpi Broqbu. The mountain top where the palace was built can be seen from down side. However the palace has been ruined due to several attacks by raja’s opponents in the past. According to Raja Hidayat Ali Khan Yabgo, huge boulders can be seen in the walls of palace. One has to climb up to 400 meters up from the fish farm to reach Khari d**g Palace.
Saling village
Saling village is settled on the north shore of Shyoke River. In olden days, a vast city was inhabited here, known as Tsethang city. It is believed that the Yabgo dynasty was originated from Tsey Thang city as Baig Manthal Cho – a Mangol migrant settled there as a Cho – King, whose family became famous with the name Yabgo family. Baig Manthal would live in Haldi village during summer season while Saling Tsey Thang was his winter abode. Kacho Sikandar has described in his book “Qadeem Ladakh, Baltistan and Gilgit” more than 20 generations of Baig Manthal Cho have ruled over the region. In the early 1300 AD Yabgo Shah Azam who was the first Muslim ruler of Yabgo dynasty became the king of Haldi and Tsey Thang state. During the reign of Yabgo Saleem Alday, the 6th generation descendant of Yabgo family, a flood apeared in Shyoke and Hushey rivers, resultantly most of the land of Tsey Thang city was flushed away. The dwellers of Tsey Thang city were displaced and they were migrated to Ladkh, Parkuta (Mehdi abad) and Doghoni. Yabgo Saleem Alday divided the remaining parts of Tsey Thang city into two portions. One portion was called Ghoorsey and the other portion was named as Saling.
To compensate the flood devastation, Yabgo Saleem Alday colonized Khaplu town and developed a new city. At the same time he shifted his headquarter from Tsey Thang to Thorsey Khar in Khaplu.
At present, settlement in both the villages of Saling and Ghursey are left in a belt shape while rest of the area where Tsey Thang city was populated are showing a vast barren land mixed with sand and river stone.
Raja’s current Palace
A two story Yabgo Palace is still intact here despite a passage of one hundred and fifty years. Currently Raja Hidayat Ali Khan Yabgo is residing in this palace. He is the grandson of raja Nasir Ali Khan Yabgo the second last ruler of Yabgo family. Raja Hidayat Ali’s mother was a British lady whom his father Raja Iftikhar Ali Khan the youngest brother of Raja Nasir Ali Khan married from Srinagar in 1939 and shifted to khaplu. Raja Nasir Ali Khan had three sons, Fateh Ali Khan, Iftikhar Ali Khan and Mehboob Ali Khan. After raja Nasir Ali Khan, his eldest son Raja Fateh Ali Khan became the last ruler of Yabgo dynasty in Khaplu.
The first floor of the Palace had been built by Raja Hatam Khan Yabgo father of Raja Nasir Ali Khan Yabgo to accommodate as a residence during winter season.
“In early 1900s a torrential flood arose in the Shyoke River. The flood also entered in the palace and filled up with sands up to half portion of the walls.” Raja Hidayat Ali Khan described the story to this scribe, adding that later when his grandfather Raja Nasir Ali Khan Yabgo along with his queen visited Saling Khar to see the devastation made by flood, the village chief presented a large area, around Saling Khar to Raja Nasir Ali Khan. “Later, Raja Nasir Ali Khan built the upper story to accommodate the expanding royal family heir. “Since then we have been residing in this Palace. Raja Hidayat concluded.
The Palace includes a courtyard in the middle and residential rooms, storage space, kitchen and stables. The structure of the palace is in its ancient form. However, the palace has been embellished according to modern needs.
A small museum has been established by Raja Hidayat Ali Khan where ancient guns, bows, arrows and antiques used by his four fathers have been displayed.
Raja Hidayat Ali Khan has still kept the dignity of Yabgo family alive by preserving their property, traditions and status. To promote tourism, he is working on a hotel project near his palace which includes a large fish farm and hotel accommodation. A small house comprises of two rooms has already built on the edge of hill, 60 meter high from the fish farm. This house can be reached via a steep climb from his fish farm. A short road project is also in progress to make the access easier till the house where he intends to build a beautiful tourist spot and a hotel in coming future. With the completion of this project, the importance of Saling Khar will increase and will lead to the promotion of tourism in the region.
Yabgo Mosque.
There is a beautiful mosque here in the backdrop of Saling mountain, located 25 meters above the Raja's small house. This mosque was built by Raja Ibrahim Khan Yabgo more than four hundred years ago. The mosque is comprised of a single prayer hall and a verandah supported by pillars.
Spring water.
Spring water trickles down from nearby mountain. Willow trees and bushes have been grown here while the areas also become lush green during summer season. A water tank has been built here to supply clean drinking water for the dwellers of Saling village.
Mashabrum view point.
Mashbrum Peak (7821 meter) view point located in Talis village is just on a distance of 10 minutes drive from Saling Khar.
On way, one can have a wonderful scene of Machulu village with the grand Machulu Khanqah in the center.
Rock carvings.
There are Buddhist rock carvings on two different sides on the mountain in saling Khar which is located over the head of Yabgo Mosque. On one side, the carvings depict a large stupa signifying that once there was a Buddhist shrine somewhere. While on the other side a standing Budha holding a water pot in his hand shows the importance of spring water located just below the carvings.
Saling Fish Farm
A beautiful fish farm along with a hotel is already functioning in Saling Khar which is owned by Facho Mushtaq (Late). Hatam Ali, the present proprietor of the farm serves trout fish to the tourists on demand. The tourists are allowed to catch their required number of fish by themselves from the farm. For this purpose, fishing rods and nets are being provided to them.
