Walking Warsaw

14/01/2025

When is the best time to visit Warsaw as a tourist? Definitely not in November, January, or February. These are the worst months, as they are also the most miserable in terms of weather. Moreover, during this time, there are hardly any interesting activities that could make this period seem less dreary. Warsaw is not like Paris or London, where the weather has less impact on the city’s charm. Warsaw is completely different in this regard. The city feels entirely different on a Tuesday morning compared to a Saturday evening. If someone visits in November and then again in July, they might feel like they are seeing a completely different city.

I will elaborate on the reasons for this in an upcoming post.

The only advantage of these worst months is that you don’t have to wait in line anywhere.

The best month of the year is July. Students are on vacation, children are away on trips with their parents, temperatures are not yet too high, and all kinds of outdoor activities—of which there are many in Warsaw—are accessible. That’s when Warsaw is the most fun!

If I were to rank the months of the year, this would be the result (from best to worst):
July
August
September
---
June
May
October
---
March
---
November
---
February
January

I’ll share more details soon on my blog. But feel free to check it out now! Posts are available in German, Polish, and English.

13/01/2025

On January 13, Polish Vodka Day is celebrated.
Polish vodka is a protected geographical indication, meaning that every Polish vodka is a vodka, but not every vodka is Polish vodka. The difference becomes evident in production. Polish vodka is made only from wheat, rye, oats, and potatoes. In other countries, spirit made from corn is often added to make it cheaper and sweeter. Moreover, Poland is the only country in the world where the spirit is purified to an alcohol content of up to 96% (rectification). Only afterward is distilled water mixed in to lower the alcohol percentage. Vodka must have a minimum alcohol content of 37.5%.

Of course, it was also the Poles who first produced vodka. But that can still be debated. There's no argument, however, about the origin of the word: vodka comes from the Polish word *woda* and refers to a "little water," originally a pond, later non-alcoholic spiced beverages. Even the Russians know this. Only the German *Duden* dictionary seems to have some trouble with this, but I believe they'll improve their entry in the future.

Vodka should be consumed at room temperature, or at most slightly chilled (5-7 degrees Celsius). Wheat, rye, and potato vodkas have different aromas, flavors, and aftertastes, which can be discovered during a professional vodka tasting at the Polish Vodka Museum in the Praga-Północ district of Warsaw.

*Na zdrowie!*

12/01/2025

In February 2025, the highest concert hall in the world will open on the 28th floor of the Spectrum Tower in Warsaw. You can already book tickets for the first concerts in the so-called Sky Hall. Simply search for Sky Hall or the organizer Svitlo Concert on Google to secure your seats.

There are no photos of the hall yet, but tickets are available starting at just €30.

The views from up there are truly stunning. The space used to host (and perhaps still does) the nightclub *The View*.



The photos show the view from the rooftop, where nighttime parties also take place, and the Spectrum Tower in all its glory, surrounded by the Warsaw Business District.

11/01/2025

**Coffee in Warsaw's Old Town?**
This topic comes up on every city tour. Of course, there are restaurants and bistros where you can have coffee, but what guests are really looking for is that typical café atmosphere—one that allows you to sit comfortably on a low sofa or armchair and enjoy your coffee with a leisurely, rhythmic arm-and-hand movement. Restaurants just don't offer that. Instead, sitting there feels more like being interrogated by the police.

However, finding these cafés isn't always easy, which is why I often have to provide directions. To make it simpler in the future, I published a blog post yesterday. There, you’ll find four recommendations for cafés in the Old Town. And you’ll probably find me in one of them, too.

Just visit my city blog and read the latest article.

10/01/2025

Warsaw secured fifth place in the prestigious "The Greenest Cities in Europe 2025" ranking, which compares the greenest cities in Europe. This means we’ve surpassed cities like Amsterdam, Vienna, and Oslo.

“This is a tremendous recognition for the Polish capital, which has been improving the quality of life in the city through environmental measures for years,” commented Dorota Huk-Królikowska, Deputy Director of the Capital Tourism Office.

This ties in well with a topic we recently discussed. A colleague claimed that nature in Poland is generally in much worse condition than 30 years ago. While this might be true locally, overall, things have definitely improved, thanks to greater environmental awareness among Poles.

A great example is the Vistula River, which 30 years ago was so polluted that people were forbidden from entering it. Since 2016, it has become so clean that the fish are safe to eat.

The Warsaw Vistula Valley is likely the main reason for the city’s position in the ranking. Having such a wild river in a major city is truly unique. We especially feel the benefits in the summer.

05/01/2025

Every statistic can be manipulated, but behind every statistic lies some truth. And the truth is that Poland is becoming increasingly popular among tourists. Not only has the country developed into a safe travel destination, but its cities and natural landscapes have also been spruced up. Moreover, the infrastructure has improved significantly.

As a result, Poland is now among the top 20 countries visited by international tourists. Warsaw, in particular, stands out as the biggest success story. Fifteen years ago, the city had fewer than 500,000 international visitors, but by 2019, that number had grown to nearly 4.5 million. Back in the 1990s, Warsaw was considered the most dangerous capital in Europe. Today, it ranks among the safest cities on the continent. This rise is also reflected in GDP per capita, with Warsaw now among the top 15 cities in the EU.

I had a strong intuition that Poland's capital could one day become a major tourist destination. As early as 2012, I began preparing for this shift. Today, I can make a very good living from it. I still vividly remember those times—it was seen by many as the dumbest idea to rely on tourism in Warsaw. I think it’s time to pay those know-it-alls a personal visit to see how they’re doing 🙂

02/01/2025

Two new residential blocks in the "higher" category have just been completed in Warsaw. The Towarowa Towers, located near Rondo Daszyńskiego, each stand 95 meters tall and house 570 apartments. Just 25 meters away is the 195-meter-high Skyliner, and another skyscraper, Skyliner II, is currently under construction.

On the opposite side of the street, the mega-project Towarowa 22 is being built for over 1 billion euros. This is just the tip of the massive construction boom in this part of the Wola district.

There are still 80 apartments available in the towers. While the prices are not publicly disclosed, the estimated price per square meter is between 30,000 and 40,000 PLN.

This development is fascinating when you consider that 12 years ago, there was nothing at this roundabout. Today, 30,000 people work in the immediate vicinity daily.

The photos show Rondo Daszyńskiego in the past and present. The third photo features the Towarowa Towers mentioned.

31/12/2024

The ultimate question on New Year's Eve: Where is the public party, and will there be a big fireworks display?
The answer to all these and subsequent questions? Nowhere, and no! The city hasn’t organized a public party or fireworks display for several years now, to protect wildlife—especially birds, bears, and moose.

So, everyone is left to their own devices. There are certainly plenty of parties scattered around the city, so finding the right place shouldn’t be a problem.

As a proud Varsovian, it warms my heart to see numerous tourists from other countries who have traveled to Warsaw because they’ve heard that "you can walk safely through the streets here even at night." Opinions about the city don’t get more valuable than that.

So, celebrate beautifully and safely—with birds, bears, and moose—sipping sweet mulled wine at the Christmas market and enjoying an Oscypek with cranberries. We’ll see each other next year, refreshed and ready, with a hefty dose of sarcasm and irony. After all, only those who can laugh at themselves should use that talent on others.

**Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku! Happy New Year!**
Yours,
Antek

28/12/2024

This text offers a delightful snapshot of the culinary treats at the Old Town Christmas Market in Warsaw, focusing on traditional Polish snacks that pair wonderfully with mulled wine (*grzane wino*). Here's a breakdown of the highlights:

1. **Oscypek**
A smoked sheep's cheese from the Tatra region, protected by a geographical indication. Popular during the Christmas season in Warsaw, it's typically grilled and served with a tangy cranberry sauce to balance its salty flavor.

2. **Pajda**
A thick slice of bread generously spread with lard and topped with pickled gherkins—rustic and satisfying.

3. **Polish Sausage (Kiełbasa)**
Iconic and flavorful, served with all the trimmings for a hearty snack.

While these snacks are traditionally paired with vodka, they also shine alongside a warm cup of mulled wine, offering a cozy and festive experience. Perfect for the Christmas market vibe!

25/12/2024

As I observed the Christmas ceremony, I wondered if there are any Polish traditions that are celebrated nowhere else in the world. Without diving deeper into the internet (given the sheer number of countries, this would take a bit too long), I think the following might be unique (but not exclusively so):

**1. Sharing the wafer**
Before finally satisfying your hunger after a full day of fasting, everyone present shares a piece of the wafer. Each person breaks off a piece from the other’s wafer and wishes them only the best!
Interestingly, there isn’t even a German Wikipedia entry for the Polish *"Opłatek"*.

**2. A place for the unexpected guest**
In every Polish home, a place is set aside for an unexpected guest. Everything is prepared—plate, glass, and cutlery. This seat remains empty all evening. You never know who might come. For me, this tradition holds special significance because my family left Poland in 1989 and found a new home in Germany.

Finding a third unique Polish Christmas tradition wasn’t so easy. After all, traditions often transcend borders and travel with people to other countries. But maybe the next two could qualify:

**3.1. Hay under the tablecloth**
This tradition originates from pagan Poland (pre-10th century) and is still practiced today, including in our home. Sometimes, we take the rounded end of a loaf of bread and place the hay inside it. We also surround it with a wallet, butter, sausage, and salt. This ensures that we lack nothing in the coming year.

**3.2. *Home Alone***
Since the first broadcast of *Home Alone* in November 1990, watching this blockbuster has gradually become an annual Christmas tradition in Poland.

Perhaps you have suggestions for what else could be added to this list? Surely there are regional or local traditions, such as chaining the table in Podlasie. This symbolizes the family staying united in the coming year. Quite lovely.

I’m curious to hear your suggestions. I’m also all ears for German traditions!

24/12/2024

On this special day (though it’s actually tomorrow), I wish you all lots of health, joy in life, socks and boxer shorts under the Christmas tree, 12 dishes at the Christmas Eve dinner including Barszcz, carp in aspic, poppy seeds with noodles, fruit compote or cucumber soup, a short midnight mass, a sausage-heavy breakfast on Christmas Day, heartfelt wishes while sharing the Oplatek, peace and calm without politics or world events, straw under the tablecloth, butter, money, and a baby Jesus in the basket, and lots of love with family and friends!

Enjoy and don’t forget: today, we love others as we love ourselves!
Merry Christmas! Wesolych Swiat Bozego Narodzenia!

22/12/2024

Why did L**h Wałęsa initially (starting in 1990) reside in the Belweder Palace and only move to the current Presidential Palace on Krakowskie Przedmieście Street a few years later (from 1994)? Apparently, it took that long to "debug" the Presidential Palace. After all, the Communists had been in power for 45 years. By then, the bugs must have had children and grandchildren.

Today, the Belweder Palace serves as a ceremonial residence for Polish presidents. It is used to host guests who do not hold official positions in their respective states.

If you want to see the palace in all its glory, you can also do so with the vodka bottle of the same name.

By the way, the next elections are in May 2025, and unlike in Germany, the president in Poland is directly elected by the people. The chances for Rafał Trzaskowski, the current Mayor of Warsaw, are very high.

21/12/2024

Eurostat has created this insightful map of Europe, revealing just how modest the average income in Poland really is. The annual average salaries (in EUR) listed for each country show that Poles statistically don’t have much left to live on—especially considering the widespread belief that living costs in Western Europe are nearly the same as in Poland.

Only Bulgarians, Romanians, Hungarians, and Greeks are statistically poorer than Poles.

Of course, there are many nuances to consider. For example, the data only includes companies with at least 9 employees, and the map reflects gross salaries. When it comes to net income, Poland catches up quite a bit, thanks to just two income tax rates, which are among the lowest in Europe.

The rest is up to you to analyze.

Interestingly, the Warsaw region is among the 20 richest regions in the EU, thanks to higher productivity and efficiency. Unlike Kraków, where professors, priests, and students seem to think sipping coffee in a bistro counts as work. 😉

21/08/2024

The Warsaw Old Town Walking Tour by Walking Warsaw is a 2-hour guided tour available on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays at 10.30am and 2 pm. The tour covers key sites in Warsaw's Old Town, including the Market Square, Royal Castle, and St. John’s Cathedral. It also explores the New Town, Jewish Heritage sites, and the Warsaw Uprising Monument. The group size is limited to 15 people, ensuring a more intimate experience. Reservations are required, and tours are available in English or German.

The walking tour is organised as a tip-based walking tour. You decide how much to give the guide at the end.

For more details, visit our Free Walking Tour website www.freetourwarsaw.com

Free Tour in Warsaw with local guides. Book online, pay as you wish. It's completely free to book and join the free tour group.

13/08/2024

Although Poles are notoriously known as the worst drivers in Europe, driving culture in this country is moving in the right direction. Warsaw is leading the way!

29 people lost their lives on Warsaw's roads last year. ❗ That’s still 29 too many, but at the same time, it's the lowest number since data collection began in 1983. Back then, 230 people died in Warsaw, and in the early 90s, this number exceeded 300 fatalities per year. Warsaw is now even aiming for zero!

Why do Poles drive so poorly? Because 20 years ago, they had to really push the pedal to the metal in their Polski Fiats and Polonez cars just to get moving. Now, they’ve got up to 200 horsepower under the hood, but they still tend to press the gas pedal all the way down. It’s a matter of habit!

The problem lies in the unpredictability of what the driver in front might do and the fact that drivers in Poland rarely consider the comfort and safety of their passengers.

But what isn’t, can still come to be. It also took some time in Germany. In the 90s, 11,000 people died on German roads every year. In 1970, that number was over 20,000. Today, it’s just under 3,000. The same is true for Poland, though with half the population.

03/08/2024

By the way, I'm still sitting here in the Masurian Lakes. It is often said that the residents of Warsaw (and big city dwellers in general) live in their own bubble. That's true! But it's always been that way, so America wasn't the first to discover this phenomenon. However, until the 2010s, there was no big-city atmosphere in Poland. Warsaw was more like a large collection of gigantic prefab housing estates. Consequently, there was no bubble here because the difference between city and countryside was minimal. In medium-sized cities, there was practically no difference.

This has changed dramatically in the last 15 years. Warsaw has risen to become a European metropolis, and cities like Krakow, Wroclaw, and Gdansk are now considered major European cities. The difference in wages, real income, cultural offerings, and standard of living is greater than ever before. This brings us to the bubble that cannot be denied.

But this bubble has its perks. After my stay in the Masurian Lakes, I am even happier to live in Warsaw than I had previously thought. Despite all the disadvantages of living in a big city, the disadvantages of living in the countryside are enormous.

My view of the province has changed drastically in two ways over the last 15 years: firstly, I am now 40 years old and you could say "more fragile." Secondly, I now have a son who requires a lot of additional equipment for his daily life. The villages here are neither child-, family-, nor disability-friendly. It takes an incredible amount of energy for me to get around here. This area is a paradise for 30-year-old young people of both genders without children and without physical disabilities. For everyone else, I cannot recommend a trip to the Masurian Lakes. One often becomes very frustrated with the lack of infrastructure for a small family. Consequently, the interest of the local population in potential improvements is relatively low. "I shouldn't make such a fuss. You can carry the stuff and the child up those 10 stairs." This comment wasn't directed at me but at my wife.

Here, 40-ton trucks constantly drive through the villages, hardly any store or business offers ramps for wheelchairs or strollers, and generally, a leisurely stroll through the towns is only possible in a few places. Even outside in nature, it's impossible to get around with a stroller. That's probably why cyclists dominate here. Nothing works without a car. Perhaps that's why the traffic is sometimes enormous. For towns with 10-15 thousand inhabitants, it's quite noticeably car-heavy.

I love the Masurian Lakes, but when I fell in love with them, I was 20 years old. Now at 40, the world here looks somewhat alien.

Therefore, I am somewhat relieved to soon be able to return to my Warsaw bubble. My son will now cherish my love for the Masurian Lakes for the next 40 years until the comfort craving catches up with him too. I will have to look elsewhere for a geographical mistress where I don't have to fuss about perhaps just 10 stairs.

Maybe the coast then?

01/08/2024

The (forgotten) Warsaw Uprising of 1944 remains a heroic resistance primarily by young people, who never questioned what they were doing at the time. There's much debate over whether the uprising was meaningful or pointless, and whether it was doomed from the start. However, this question pertains only to the military leadership, not to the insurgents on the ground.

The merit of the 1944 uprising lies in the fact that the insurgents did not fight for freedom. They did not sacrifice their lives to free themselves or to be free. They fought because they were free. Freedom was and always is an unshakable foundation in Warsaw.

Glory and honor to the insurgents! Chwała Bohaterom!

31/07/2024

As part of the commemorations for the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, I have collaborated with the Warsaw Insider to create a walking route highlighting the dramatic yet heroic events from August to October 1944, which I have written about in an article. Those interested can walk from Plac Bankowy to Plac Zamkowy, stopping at various points to learn more about the uprising. This route covers only a small portion of all historically documented events, but in my view, this walking tour captures the essence of the uprising. Tomorrow marks the 80th anniversary of the uprising, and I would like to describe the essence in more detail then.

The article is in English!

By the way, I highly recommend the mentioned portal to everyone. Perhaps, in the future, we will regularly publish more walking tours that highlight significant historical events of each respective month. But whatever you want to know about Warsaw, here is just the right place. They do a really amazing job.

I will attach the published article in the comments section.