10/20/2023
On October 10th we left Tangier for the cold and windy Atlantic Ocean. We cut our stay in Tangier 2 days short because of a weather system in the Atlantic threatening calm and then possible head winds. We decided to take the winds that were available and get out while we had a chance of comfortable sailing. Once underway, we squeezed out every bit of wind we could. We flew the Wingaker right up to the moment it collapsed in dead calm. The motors came on and we put on 67 hours of motor time. Along the way we caught three Mahi Mahi’s and ended up in Porto Calero, Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. The landscape was volcanic like the moon. Black rock and lava flow everywhere. Coming from Phoenix it seemed that the temperature should be 120 degrees but instead there was a comfortable mid 80’s breeze with intense sun and a nice cool breeze in the evening. The marina was well equipped with everything we wanted, so we rented a car and drove to see Los Volcanes Natural Park. On the way we saw that they were growing low lying grape vines between walls of black volcanic rocks stacked neatly into long rows to protect the grapes. We would discover later that they were producing pretty good white wines in the Canaries. There were several villages along the way and every building was white, no other colors. We arrived at the volcano park to wait in a long line of cars as there was limited parking at the visitor center on top of the mountain. One car down, one car up. When parked at the visitor center we boarded a large bus for the tour of the moon scape. It was like a ride at an amusement park but in a big bus. Each time we approached a sharp curve (all with steep drops), the front end of the bus extended over the roadway giving the sensation that we were about to go careening over the edge of the mountain only to have the front end swoop around and saved gain by narrowly missing the wall of lava thru which the roadway was cut at the end of the curve. As the ride continued, they were playing stoic symphony music from the theater with a building crescendo that reminded me of a bunch of ignorant peasants being bussed off to their certain death while feeling like celebrated heroes. The restaurant at the top was pretty cool. They were cooking chickens on long spits placed over a big hole with hot dry air flowing up from a volcanic vent. We had plans for another restaurant on the North side of the island so we forwent the volcanic chicken and moved on to the north. At the north east end of the island there is an estate call Jameos del Agua. Wikipedia says it best:
Jameos del Agua is a series of lava caves, located in the municipality of Haría in northern Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain. It is also an art, culture and tourism center, created by local artist and architect, César Manrique, and managed by the government of Lanzarote. Jameos del Agua consists of a subterranean salt lake, restaurant, gardens, emerald-green pool, museum and auditorium
So, it’s a really cool huge hole in the lava with lakes around and a restaurant. Like a restaurant in a cave but more open air straight up. We had a nice lunch with some good dry white wine from Lanzarote before watching Tanja twist her ankle on a hidden black step. She fell to the ground, wallowed around a bit and popped up like nothing happened. She is still nursing some strained ligaments with some swelling and bruising, it’s not slowing her down much.
After two nights in Lanzarote we left for an overnight sail to Gran Canaria. Motor sailed the entire distance with uncomfortable waves on the starboard quarter, no wind and no way to avoid the waves. We arrived before sunlight and dropped anchor in front of the Las Palmas Marina entrance. Las Palmas has so far been a nice place. People are friendly, found good pizza, big stores for shopping. Yesterday we picked up a super-automatic espresso maker so we are back to good coffee and cappuccino. We also picked up a new vacuum cleaner which we needed since Laura got an unpleasant surprise when she tried to empty the vacuum cleaner and the guts fell into the ocean rendering our $400 cordless vacuum worthless. Hopefully we can pick up the spare part and recover the loss.
Today we got a new prop set and had a diver swap it out with the old one. We will go out and test the new prop tomorrow and hopefully the vibration issue that has been haunting us since La Rochelle will be gone forever and before every screw on the boat falls out. We will let you know how it goes. And the final thing, I’ve been waiting for the right moment to get a dive compressor since I don’t need it until the Caribbean but I’m worried about finding one once we get there. So Las Palmas is our last chance. After working with the local dive shops to order one from Barcelona, the boat next to us overheard us talking about going to place the order. The dive shop owner didn’t have the invoice ready and asked me to come back next week to finalize the order. So when I got back to the boat, our neighbor had a sign on his boat advertising a never used dive compressor for sale. It’s one of the best. I’ll test it and if it works, I’ll take it.