02/09/2025
Forget overtourism, this historical region is desperate for visitors
We face losing thousands of incredible historic sites if they continue to languish unvisited, not least these forgotten Albanian treasures
While many of the world’s most important cultural sites are battling the pressures caused by too many tourists, one – a beautiful and unique group of ancient buildings in Albania – is struggling because there are too few
At least that is the argument of heritage campaigners who are hoping to preserve the remote but historic monasteries and churches of the Drino Valley
They are aiming, with the support of the World Monuments Fund (WMF), to increase the number of visitors significantly, raising the profile and securing the future of these remarkable sites
The abandoned monasteries – there around a dozen of them – are clustered in the hills to the south and the east of the city of Gjirokastër on either side of the Drino river, which winds through southern Albania
They typically comprise a small compound of monastic buildings clustered around a central church and date from the 16th and 17th centuries – the period after the Byzantine Empire had given way to the Ottomans. Several were founded hundreds of years earlier, however
Among the most atmospheric are St Cyricus and Julitta in Dhuvjan which may have been founded in the 6th century, but certainly dates back until 1089; St Mary Spile among the limestone cliffs above Saraqinisht with its astonishing frescoed dome; and the atmospheric painted interiors of the Church of Saint Nicholas in Dhuvjan and the Church of the Prophet Elijah in Stegopull
They have survived largely untouched by modern interventions partly because of their remote locations in the hills and mountains above the valley’s fertile plains. But while isolation has helped protect them from development, neglect is now starting to threaten their survival
They languish in varying states of disrepair, some are on the verge of collapse and the frescoes which contribute so much to their unique aesthetic are under threat from damp and crumbling roof structures. Rural depopulation is only adding to the risk of further neglect and damage
Since 2005, Unesco has listed the monasteries as part of an Albanian World Heritage Site which incorporates a wider cluster of historic buildings and includes the nearby historic city of Gjirokastër, with its medieval layout, cobbled streets and unspoilt Ottoman architecture. It also covers the mosques and castles in the neighbouring region of Berat
But last month, the WMF focused fresh attention on them. The monasteries were included on the WMF’s latest biennial “watchlist” of 25 historic places around the world which are currently facing major challenges including neglect, climate change, tourism and natural disasters
Although visitor numbers to Albania are on the up, the Drino Valley remains largely undiscovered by tourists and the WMF sees this as an opportunity. It argues that increasing tourism could offer a sustainable way to support the long-term preservation of these sites, while at the same time celebrating the valley’s history and boosting the local economy
It is proposing the development of a cultural route for tourists. This would connect the valley’s monasteries and involve the restoration of existing trails and access tracks, signposting and information for visitors, training of local guides, and collaboration of local businesses and other stakeholders
On the face of it, the idea feels like a win-win proposal, but getting the right balance between tourism and heritage is not easy
Richard Hodges, President Emeritus of the American University of Rome, was involved in the original project to obtain Unesco World Heritage Status for Gjirokastër in 2005. He agrees that these magnificent churches deserve to be better known, “their frescoes are supremely stunning,” he says
But he emphasises the need to tread carefully when aiming to increase visitor numbers. “A priority is to safeguard these treasures with an assessment of conservation priorities before encouraging the steadily increasing number of tourists to Gjirokastër (which is Albania’s second most popular visitor destination) to visit these jewels”
There is also no doubt that something of the magic of these amazing churches will be lost when they are restored and become part of a tourist trail
But then if they don’t, we risk slowly losing them altogether
We face losing thousands of incredible historic sites if they continue to languish unvisited, not least these forgotten Albanian treasures
Albania has natural beauty in abundance + offers a remarkable array of unique attractions
