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Toolkit Tailoring Studio, Natick, MA (2024)

02/23/2024

Here’s a perfect before and after. In a pinch, a client sent off a new pair of black Frame jeans to the dry cleaner down the street for a hem. Not all original hem alterations are treated with the care they deserve. If you look at the first 3 pics in the sequence, you will see 2 rows of topstitching. This might slide on a black pair but what if it were a blue denim? The next frame is what the inside looks like, this pic is darker in color, a thick overlocked edge on the inside. The finished product is a wavy, stretched out hem. I had to remove the additional topstitching, a row of straight stitch where they attached it, and the thick overlock edge they used to finish the seam. I then started from where I always begin by removing the original stitch and attaching from there. The 3-6 images are the new straight hem, the inside and outside. It’s always more work for me to fix other’s mistakes but the payoff is a straight hem and a happy client.

02/07/2024

Oh Dries, how I love thee… We started with a stunning zebra print dress with a jaw dropping neckline and a strong shoulder. In order to fit this dress close to the body, the bodice was shortened, taken in, shoulders adjusted and the sleeves were hemmed to a bracelet length. When you visit your local trusted tailor and their first instinct is to grab up at the shoulders in order to shorten the bodice, take a breath. If the dress has a waist seam, this may be the better option. It’s less likely to affect the armhole and shoulder. However, ……, it may also need to be adjusted at the shoulder, like this one. It does involve unpicking the zipper below the waist and reattaching and some tailors don’t have enough time for that. I always take the time to do it right. Slide through to see start to finish. This now fits like a glove, especially that neckline. It’s a jungle out there, always be prepared for the red carpet. ( I couldn’t help myself)

01/12/2024

Another legend in the books. Had a fun few days sewing with old friends, meeting new ones, and being a small part of the traveling circus stop in Boston. Couldn’t believe I was in the presence of Bob the drag queen! Saw a glimpse of the show on my way out, Madonna’s tribute to all the artistic souls we have lost to AIDS during Live to Tell brought more emotion than I could fathom. She will always be the OG Queen Mother.

01/03/2024

Oh Ben Platt, why? I’m just catching up on some recorded television, I always love watching the Kennedy Center Honors. Ben Platt performed for Barry Gibb with an amazing rendition of a classic. This ill fitting tux does the handsome, talented man no favors. The shoulders are giving a Grace Jones vibe, not in a good way, and the full pant is all sag. When you buy off the rack, you need a tailor. Every good Broadway boy knows that. Bring that shoulder in, hem your sleeve, and buy a pair of pants that fit. Someone did you dirty on such a big night.

11/02/2023

When I was approached by my new friend, Jane Ellen, the community relations coordinator at the Morse Institute library to submit a piece for the annual Fiber Art Exhibit, I immediately said yes. She asked if I just have pieces on hand, no, they are usually flying out the door ready to be worn. We chatted about the founder of the library, Mary Ann Morse, of Natick. Her life intrigued me, a single woman who died at the age of 37 in 1862. She had not been educated past grammar school yet gifted her estate to Natick to build the first lending library. There are no existing photographs of Mary so I wanted to create an inspired 1850’s day dress that I imagined she would be wearing. It is made of cotton muslin to simulate a sepia tone of a vintage photograph with highlights of a colorful Liberty of London fabric to represent the color and vibrancy she contributed to my town of Natick and it’s beautiful library now celebrating it’s 150th Anniversary. If you are in Natick, stop by the Morse Institute for this extensive fiber exhibit, do some local shopping and eating and imagine what life was like 150 years ago. Professional photography courtesy of my friend OJRT Photography

10/27/2023

You can’t always get what you want… yes Mick, we know. I’ve worked with Mick but that’s a story for another day. Today we will be talking about a perfect blouse. I recently finished a custom blouse for a client. Think, The Row, pure luxury. Two layers of 2 ply cream silk, the perfect weight for any season really. Starting with a favorite blouse helps. A pattern is drafted, a toile out of muslin is created for the first fitting. I used a softer fabric than muslin to mimic the drape of the silk. The neckline, sleeve length and hem were marked in the fitting. I never cut into the final fabric until the toile is perfected on the body. A 2nd fitting in the final fabric is scheduled and the last meeting is delivery. Every seam is finished, steamed and I sew bra strap carriers in the shoulders to hold the blouse in place. To be honest, I don’t often take custom projects, it can be cost prohibitive especially after fabric and fitting time are calculated. Having the perfect blouse can be priceless, this is the first of many in several colors. Now back to my regularly scheduled program of alterations, my preferred way to spend the work day.

10/08/2023

Looks can be deceiving. A huge part of tailoring for a client may include some detective work. Stitches leave behind evidence. By looking inside the lining you can see how something was previously altered, wonderfully or horribly. If there’s seam allowance or none to spare. In this case, the Marni blazer fit beautifully except for the armhole. Much too tight. In the fitting, I took a few minutes to open the seam (there is always a small area in every jacket that is topstitched or hand sewn to allow for entry). I pulled out what was an extraordinary large shoulder pad. Yes, blazers need a shoulder pad but don’t necessarily need the extra pieces added for fashion’s sake. Lesson: before returning a beautiful piece, ask a detective for their help. Close up shot of safety pin buttonhole because it’s amazing.

09/06/2023

This emerald jersey dress is pure glamour. A few adjustments were necessary for the client to be confident in any situation. We closed up the neckline as the dramatic plunge would make it impossible to wear without some carefully placed fashion tape. I shortened the back bodice at the waist, no one should have a bumpy zipper in a dress like this. A slight hem and she is ready to own the room, any room really.

09/04/2023

Loved working on this Rick Owens dress for a new client. It was a perfect match for her event, just one slight issue. It is a coated stretch twill but getting this on and off was like an exercise class. No outside assistance and event make up and hair may have posed a problem. Solution: since I pinned some extra at the side seam for a better fit, I put in an invisible zipper to make it user friendly. No one will know any changes were made, except maybe for you and definitely the client.

08/05/2023

It’s officially ! We are up bright and early in line at . Check out the paper and bubble wrap dress I made for Kristina in the front window for the momentous occasion.

05/23/2023

Another exciting weekend in the books. I worked with a crew of my local union members backstage at The Eras Tour. No pics allowed so take it from me, it’s not glamorous, it’s hard work, and you use your muscles carrying baskets of shoes, costumes, and racks of freshly prepped ball gowns. I wouldn’t trade these opportunities for the world but it’s nice to slide back into my own world and an early bedtime. See you next time Taylor, we know you’ll be back!

03/22/2023

Love working with the talent behind these doors.

03/21/2023

Spring is in the air, this Dries Van Noten jacket is like a bouquet in the sun. Like all jackets with cut buttonholes, the sleeve needs to be removed and raised for the correct length. The best part is this a two piece suit.

03/08/2023

Today,I celebrate being a business owner, community member, and Mother to a strong young woman. I’m grateful to work with strong women who make an impact in our world everyday. My clients are truly spectacular as well as the stylists and fellow film tailors I’m surrounded by. Women make the world go around.

02/21/2023

If your sleeves are unwieldy, I’m just an email away.

01/14/2023

Denim plays a big role in fashion these days. When I was a teen, dropping money on a pair of Jordache or Guess jeans was not something I could ever afford. I’m definitely showing my age but I think we have all seen the evolution of denim in the silhouette changes, washes, and distressed beauty and horror of it all. Along with a much higher price tag, alterations are more specialized. When altering jeans, think about what shoes you may wear. A narrow leg, skinny or boot cut may be harder to leave long as in most cases, won’t fall over a shoe. That being said, a full leg may want to be worn with a heel (if you wear them). So the important question is, when do you ask for your tailor to retain the original hem? The answer, almost always! Every hem pictured here is post hemming with retaining the original edge. Even the black torn up pair! In some circles, it’s called the Hollywood hem. If it is finished correctly it should look like the original on the inside like the photo. I’ve seen plenty of jean hems promising the Hollywood hem when in reality it is hacked off and sewn back on with a seam allowance showing. So when can I just get my jeans hemmed the old fashioned way? Answer: when the denim is a solid color or if the denim is not distressed in any way, not even subtly. The only denim simply hemmed is the black pair. Take a look at the photos and see the beauty of the most subtle aging and understand why you should retain it. If you are investing in a pricier pair of jeans, invest in the tailoring.

01/13/2023

These rainy days are bleak but a chic trench embraces the chill. This trench needed a few changes to balance the proportions for the client. The hem and sleeves needed to be shortened. Find yourself a tailor that pays attention to detail. This wrist belt and it’s carriers were all moved up so the Burberry styling measurement remained the same as the original. If you invest in your wardrobe, don’t hire a cutting corners tailor, the magic is in the details.

01/03/2023

It always feels like spring when Carolina Herrera is in the studio. Slight hem adjustment for a stunning woman who can no longer wear higher heels. There are two things to say about that fact, heels vary and I’ve noticed only a few wear the 3+ heels and classic gowns have no timeline. Invest in few with an infinite shelf life instead of jumping on every current style. It pays off. I’m not sure when this gown was last worn and it doesn’t even matter. It’s just as relevant today.

01/01/2023

2022 Toolkit Highlights

01/01/2023

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12/23/2022

It’s supposed to drop 30 degrees tonight, thankfully I delivered this cozy Bogner for Gorsuch coat yesterday. My client bought this coat on sale and had a short window for a return. She explained how she felt like she was wearing a barrel. She also told me how the online photo was deceiving as the model was holding it closed, wrapped around her. Luckily for her, these coats can be altered. If your puffer jacket is lined, there’s a strong chance we can get in there and make some adjustments without feathers flying. I took the body in 4-5 inches around and also tapered the hood in her neck area for a better fit. I just love this beautiful color, I think that’s why she fell in love with it. I always tell clients, if you get lured into a sale, only buy the piece if it’s your size or larger. You may make up the difference spending on the alterations. If you buy a size too small, the garment, if it can be altered enough, may cost more in alterations. Stay warm!

12/23/2022

A few more things out the door before a short holiday break. This Fendi blazer needed to come in at the waist. This involved removing the decorative top stitching, altering the seams, and then topstitching the seams. The shoulders were perfect as was the sleeve length. When buying a blazer or suit, find a good fit for the shoulders and the rest can be altered. Be aware of the actual style of the jacket as trends ebb and flow, a strong shoulder has it’s moments but steer clear of the talking heads silhouette. If you’re too young for that reference, google David Byrne. Merry Merry and happy happy to all.

12/17/2022

It was a bit wild in the studio last week. This gown was for a client attending a special event. What you don’t see in this photograph is the teamwork behind the fashion. I have the pleasure of working with the fashion stylist mastermind, Alisa Neely, quite often. She is the curator of all chic pieces for the client. The client plays an important role, how do I feel when I put this on? Is there something that bothers me? This dress is actually a sheer black sheath dress over a silk slip. Although it was sheer, it needed some air. At the client’s request, the slip was shortened and we also decided that bringing in the armhole to reveal more shoulder was also more flattering. I’m grateful to work closely with such talented stylists and such lovely clients. Teamwork makes the dream, or in this case, the dress work.

12/14/2022

Blazers are a staple commonly found in modern wardrobes. Many sleeves are cut to fit taller women. If you flip through magazines, many jackets are styled long. The reality is that we really can’t function with our hands covered so this is when I enter the picture. The majority of these sleeves are sold with cut buttonholes and additional trim like this Victoria Beckham blazer. In these cases, the sleeve is marked at the armhole, completely removed, trimmed down, and reset. The sleeve cap is not just cut down the amount to be shortened, a pattern is made and used to make the new line. Any shoulder padding must be put back in place and I always give the shoulder a good steam on a dress form to set it in place. Like any well tailored garment, no one will ever know. Now you know.

11/26/2022

This was a fun Halloween project I was commissioned to make for a Lovely Hollywood Lady. The first pic was the muppet image I was provided to copy for a toddler Halloween costume. I learned how to work with LED lights and utilized my understanding of comfort for a child. The inner bodice was lined with a soft knit and a back velcro closure for easy on/off. The LED lights were encased in a iridescent horsehair tubing for more control and safety. Thank you to for the referral. I received a much appreciated email and am happy I got to flex my creative muscles.

11/22/2022

I’m always looking for beautiful, locally sourced gifts this time of year. I’m lucky enough to have some pretty fantastic studio mates. This glasswork is from in Natick Center. They remind me of candy and every ornament gifted to me reminds me of the person or time as I unwrap them every year when decorating. These ornaments would also make elegant hostess gifts or draped on a gifted bottle of champagne. Reach out to set up an appointment to see these treasures.

09/23/2022

Finally watched Confess Fletch tonight. Great summer project in 2021 with some close friends. Super funny, Hamm is a treat. Give it a watch, these comedies are a rarity these days. Excellent cast and the clothes look 👌🏻

09/20/2022

Let’s play, tailor talk. There’s a lot to unload here so we will go from left to right. Randy, we’re not sure if those are pants or leggings. Pants would work better here. Leggings are so tight creating a capri. No one wants a capri. Simon is used to sitting behind a table, that shirt is overwhelming. Either tuck in or hem to wear out but pass on the nightshirt vibe. Also, your pants are too long, too much of a break. Kelly, you’re good! Paula, petite women should pay attention to sleeve length, hem your sleeves to your thumb knuckle or it just looks like the dress is wearing you. A more structured bust cup would make a world of difference as spilling out is not as sexy.