Toolkit Tailoring Studio

Toolkit Tailoring Studio Robin Chalfin provides a private, specialized fitting experience at your chosen location. Her expert

I love couture. I recently worked with a client to recut a Chanel duster. Usually the conversation starts with, I put it...
09/18/2024

I love couture. I recently worked with a client to recut a Chanel duster. Usually the conversation starts with, I put it on, but it doesn’t feel right, so I take it off. First of all, this client is petite, the proportion may have been different in black, but in cream, it was overwhelming her. We shortened the jacket by 8 inches. The sleeves were too long as well. With a bound sleeve hem, the entire sleeve is removed and it’s shortened from the sleeve cap. The sleeve was also slimmed. Ok, one more thing, weird pocket placement. We decided to drop the upper pocket, as situated on the bust was not flattering. This Chanel jacket can be dressed down with a jean and Tshirt or up with a cashmere turtleneck and a beautifully cut pant. Sometimes less is more. Now it’s perfect.

Here’s a perfect before and after. In a pinch, a client sent off a new pair of black Frame jeans to the dry cleaner down...
02/23/2024

Here’s a perfect before and after. In a pinch, a client sent off a new pair of black Frame jeans to the dry cleaner down the street for a hem. Not all original hem alterations are treated with the care they deserve. If you look at the first 3 pics in the sequence, you will see 2 rows of topstitching. This might slide on a black pair but what if it were a blue denim? The next frame is what the inside looks like, this pic is darker in color, a thick overlocked edge on the inside. The finished product is a wavy, stretched out hem. I had to remove the additional topstitching, a row of straight stitch where they attached it, and the thick overlock edge they used to finish the seam. I then started from where I always begin by removing the original stitch and attaching from there. The 3-6 images are the new straight hem, the inside and outside. It’s always more work for me to fix other’s mistakes but the payoff is a straight hem and a happy client.

Oh Dries, how I love thee… We started with a stunning zebra print dress with a jaw dropping neckline and a strong should...
02/07/2024

Oh Dries, how I love thee… We started with a stunning zebra print dress with a jaw dropping neckline and a strong shoulder. In order to fit this dress close to the body, the bodice was shortened, taken in, shoulders adjusted and the sleeves were hemmed to a bracelet length. When you visit your local trusted tailor and their first instinct is to grab up at the shoulders in order to shorten the bodice, take a breath. If the dress has a waist seam, this may be the better option. It’s less likely to affect the armhole and shoulder. However, ……, it may also need to be adjusted at the shoulder, like this one. It does involve unpicking the zipper below the waist and reattaching and some tailors don’t have enough time for that. I always take the time to do it right. Slide through to see start to finish. This now fits like a glove, especially that neckline. It’s a jungle out there, always be prepared for the red carpet. ( I couldn’t help myself)

Another legend in the books. Had a fun few days sewing with old friends, meeting new ones, and being a small part of the...
01/12/2024

Another legend in the books. Had a fun few days sewing with old friends, meeting new ones, and being a small part of the traveling circus stop in Boston. Couldn’t believe I was in the presence of Bob the drag queen! Saw a glimpse of the show on my way out, Madonna’s tribute to all the artistic souls we have lost to AIDS during Live to Tell brought more emotion than I could fathom. She will always be the OG Queen Mother.

Oh Ben Platt, why? I’m just catching up on some recorded television, I always love watching the Kennedy Center Honors. B...
01/03/2024

Oh Ben Platt, why? I’m just catching up on some recorded television, I always love watching the Kennedy Center Honors. Ben Platt performed for Barry Gibb with an amazing rendition of a classic. This ill fitting tux does the handsome, talented man no favors. The shoulders are giving a Grace Jones vibe, not in a good way, and the full pant is all sag. When you buy off the rack, you need a tailor. Every good Broadway boy knows that. Bring that shoulder in, hem your sleeve, and buy a pair of pants that fit. Someone did you dirty on such a big night.

When I was approached by my new friend, Jane Ellen, the community relations coordinator at the Morse Institute library t...
11/02/2023

When I was approached by my new friend, Jane Ellen, the community relations coordinator at the Morse Institute library to submit a piece for the annual Fiber Art Exhibit, I immediately said yes. She asked if I just have pieces on hand, no, they are usually flying out the door ready to be worn. We chatted about the founder of the library, Mary Ann Morse, of Natick. Her life intrigued me, a single woman who died at the age of 37 in 1862. She had not been educated past grammar school yet gifted her estate to Natick to build the first lending library. There are no existing photographs of Mary so I wanted to create an inspired 1850’s day dress that I imagined she would be wearing. It is made of cotton muslin to simulate a sepia tone of a vintage photograph with highlights of a colorful Liberty of London fabric to represent the color and vibrancy she contributed to my town of Natick and it’s beautiful library now celebrating it’s 150th Anniversary. If you are in Natick, stop by the Morse Institute for this extensive fiber exhibit, do some local shopping and eating and imagine what life was like 150 years ago. Professional photography courtesy of my friend OJRT Photography

You can’t always get what you want… yes Mick, we know. I’ve worked with Mick but that’s a story for another day. Today w...
10/27/2023

You can’t always get what you want… yes Mick, we know. I’ve worked with Mick but that’s a story for another day. Today we will be talking about a perfect blouse. I recently finished a custom blouse for a client. Think, The Row, pure luxury. Two layers of 2 ply cream silk, the perfect weight for any season really. Starting with a favorite blouse helps. A pattern is drafted, a toile out of muslin is created for the first fitting. I used a softer fabric than muslin to mimic the drape of the silk. The neckline, sleeve length and hem were marked in the fitting. I never cut into the final fabric until the toile is perfected on the body. A 2nd fitting in the final fabric is scheduled and the last meeting is delivery. Every seam is finished, steamed and I sew bra strap carriers in the shoulders to hold the blouse in place. To be honest, I don’t often take custom projects, it can be cost prohibitive especially after fabric and fitting time are calculated. Having the perfect blouse can be priceless, this is the first of many in several colors. Now back to my regularly scheduled program of alterations, my preferred way to spend the work day.

Looks can be deceiving. A huge part of tailoring for a client may include some detective work. Stitches leave behind evi...
10/08/2023

Looks can be deceiving. A huge part of tailoring for a client may include some detective work. Stitches leave behind evidence. By looking inside the lining you can see how something was previously altered, wonderfully or horribly. If there’s seam allowance or none to spare. In this case, the Marni blazer fit beautifully except for the armhole. Much too tight. In the fitting, I took a few minutes to open the seam (there is always a small area in every jacket that is topstitched or hand sewn to allow for entry). I pulled out what was an extraordinary large shoulder pad. Yes, blazers need a shoulder pad but don’t necessarily need the extra pieces added for fashion’s sake. Lesson: before returning a beautiful piece, ask a detective for their help. Close up shot of safety pin buttonhole because it’s amazing.

This emerald jersey dress is pure glamour. A few adjustments were necessary for the client to be confident in any situat...
09/06/2023

This emerald jersey dress is pure glamour. A few adjustments were necessary for the client to be confident in any situation. We closed up the neckline as the dramatic plunge would make it impossible to wear without some carefully placed fashion tape. I shortened the back bodice at the waist, no one should have a bumpy zipper in a dress like this. A slight hem and she is ready to own the room, any room really.

Loved working on this Rick Owens dress for a new client. It was a perfect match for her event, just one slight issue. It...
09/04/2023

Loved working on this Rick Owens dress for a new client. It was a perfect match for her event, just one slight issue. It is a coated stretch twill but getting this on and off was like an exercise class. No outside assistance and event make up and hair may have posed a problem. Solution: since I pinned some extra at the side seam for a better fit, I put in an invisible zipper to make it user friendly. No one will know any changes were made, except maybe for you and definitely the client.

It’s officially  ! We are up bright and early in line at  . Check out the paper and bubble wrap dress I made for Kristin...
08/05/2023

It’s officially ! We are up bright and early in line at . Check out the paper and bubble wrap dress I made for Kristina in the front window for the momentous occasion.

Another exciting weekend in the books. I worked with a crew of my local union members backstage at The Eras Tour. No pic...
05/23/2023

Another exciting weekend in the books. I worked with a crew of my local union members backstage at The Eras Tour. No pics allowed so take it from me, it’s not glamorous, it’s hard work, and you use your muscles carrying baskets of shoes, costumes, and racks of freshly prepped ball gowns. I wouldn’t trade these opportunities for the world but it’s nice to slide back into my own world and an early bedtime. See you next time Taylor, we know you’ll be back!

Love working with the talent behind these doors.
03/22/2023

Love working with the talent behind these doors.

Spring is in the air, this Dries Van Noten jacket is like a bouquet in the sun. Like all jackets with cut buttonholes, t...
03/21/2023

Spring is in the air, this Dries Van Noten jacket is like a bouquet in the sun. Like all jackets with cut buttonholes, the sleeve needs to be removed and raised for the correct length. The best part is this a two piece suit.

Today,I celebrate being a business owner, community member, and Mother to a strong young woman. I’m grateful to work wit...
03/08/2023

Today,I celebrate being a business owner, community member, and Mother to a strong young woman. I’m grateful to work with strong women who make an impact in our world everyday. My clients are truly spectacular as well as the stylists and fellow film tailors I’m surrounded by. Women make the world go around.

If your sleeves are unwieldy, I’m just an email away.
02/21/2023

If your sleeves are unwieldy, I’m just an email away.

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01760

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