10/20/2022
2023- Full size Light Weld class- Border War
2023 RULES AND REGULATIONS
R&R Total Destruction Promotions, LLC
Rob Baker - 515/971-1328 or www.RandRpromotions.com
General Rules
***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!!
1. All rules will be followed, or you will not run!! Car and Driver qualify for each race. No changing of car or driver!!
2. Any American make sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1970 or older Lincoln’s! No 1973 or Older imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc.
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event!
4. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection. ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting.
5. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
6. Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation.
7. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified! You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up. No alcohol in pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
8. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in the class you are protesting. Only drivers in the feature event may pro-test another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to pro-test. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Car Preparation
1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!
3. Tires no bigger than 16 inch, split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires OK!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
4. Full weld in centers and bead locks will be allowed! Don’t cover the tire itself
5. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in event.
6. Driver must have safety approved glasses or face shield. Driver needs to have FULL faced helmets.
7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. All cars must have working brakes.
8. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
9. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered.
No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be.
10. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
11. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered.
12. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with number on it for judging and recognition of car.
13. No painting of frames, suspension, repair plates and interior of car.
Car building:
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in the below rules. If your car is found with any weld, other then what’s allowed, you will not run!! No you will not be allowed to grind or cut welds. If you want to cut the weld completely out/threw frame then we’ll allow that.
2. Doors may be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut and must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Welding of Outside of doors only will be allowed. Must weld 5 inches, skip 5 inches, weld 5 inches, etc. Use no bigger than 3 inch wide material for welding doors shut. Drivers door may be weld shut inside and outside solidly with no bigger then 3” strap material.
3. For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the top of the frame or floor and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be in front of body mount in back seat area. Mopars can only be in front of spring mount.
You will be allowed 2 down bars on the inside on driver’s and passenger’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Down bars must be behind inside of front door interior seam or will be cut out. Down bars must stop at top side of frame and can be welded to top of frame only, no added metal!
Gas tank protectors must be NO wider then 24inches across the back- 6inch tall on back with 2 inch gap between all sheet metal around back side of gas tank protector. No smashing/beating back of sheet metal. Tank Protector can only be attached to cage only with nothing attaching up or down to body/frame. You may gusset to back seat bar and Roll loop/Halo only. Must be 4 inches off floor and stay below where speaker deck attaches to floor! You are allowed a loop behind, up off your gas tanks protector, but must be straight up and not angled. Nothing higher up then 4 inches above gas tank. Loop can have 2 cage bars off roll over bar uprights only. The uprights cannot attached to anything but the tank protector.
Cage materials no bigger than 6x6 tubing may be used and all side bars, cross bars must be 6 inch off flooring minimum. Only 1 side bar allowed on passenger’s side of car and Driver’s side door only may have a second side bar with a 2 gap from other driver’s side – side bar. Second side bar must stay in between the driver’s door interior seams.
If you try to use cage to re-enforce car (judge’s decision) you will be asked to cut or change it.
Bumpers:
4. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car. Homemade bumpers will be allowed, but you must visit our website for a list of what bumpers will be allowed. You will also be allowed a flat Tube for a bumper front or rear bumpers, nothing bigger than 6x6- 3/8 flat tubing. This must remain flat, no shaping or filling tubing. Tubing cannot be any wider than the car fenders. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Bumpers and brackets may be welded solid. Bracket are interchangeable from car to car. If you don’t use the factory front brackets to the car, you’ll be limited to a 14 inch bracket, this will be measured from the back of bumper straight back on frame. Brackets must stay factory length or can be shortened but you CAN’T stretch out brackets to make longer. If you don’t use a factory bumper bracket you may use a 4inch X 14 inch long 3/8 thick flat plate. This plate must be welded to the bumper. The bumper plate can only be welded on the outside of the frame and can only follow the frame, shaping of plate is allowed but no more than ½ bends. Bumper plates/ brackets cannot wrap the frame. Bumpers may be stuffed inside of Original bumper only. We will allow you to use original backer to bumper, fill inside original backer, then weld chrome skin back over it. Must be a factory chrome and not homemade skins. Bracket can be welded solid but can only be welded to 1 side of the frame, don’t wrap bracket unless it came out factory that way. NO Brackets may be stuffed inside of the frame rail exterior only.
You may have 4 spots #9 wire or 3/8 chain from front bumper to radiator support- 4 spots from rear bumper to trunk lid. Bracket rules applies for front and back bumper brackets!!! Front & Back Bumper can NOT be any higher than 28 inches from top center. Back frame rail at the most farthest point back can NOT be lower than 15 Inches from bottom of frame rails to ground. No tilting or pre-bending of rear frame rails. Frame must remain straight for bumper measurement. This rule is to help cut down of the issue of roll over and safety of this issue.
HOOD/TRUNKS:
5. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. You will be allowed 8 spots to hold the hood down (bolts, chain or wire); you MUST have at least 4 spots holding hood down- hood hinges don’t count! You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may be used from the hood down to the frame, but must go through the front Factory body mounts with no taller than a 6 inch 3 x3- ¼ spacer. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material – All thread may pass thru frame. Hood hold down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch Square plates. Any hood plate on top of hood must stay only on the hood sheet metal. You are allowed a 5x5x 1/2 in Square plate mounted/welded to sheet metal only under the hood but you must have your hood bolts attached/welded to this plate to hold hood down. All Hood plates must be only on sheet metal, Can Not attached to window bars, any cradle/drivetrain, Frame or cage. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter. Besides all-tread to frame threw body mount holes, all other hood bolts cannot be longer than 6 inch. Only allowed 8 spots total to hold down hood- chain- wire- bolts- etc. You are allowed 12- 3/8” blots to bolt hood skins.
6. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. Tucking of roofs are allowed but only on factory coil spring wagons. Can tuck roof to top of rear quarter panels. You may chain/wire roof to top of rear quarter panels in 2 spots on each side.
7. 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid 0r tailgate on wagons to frame, MUST go through the body mount hole if going to frame with spacer between body and frame, otherwise you may go to the body only with all-thread. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops, from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH. If the car has a short trunk lid, you may run all-tread straight up from mount to tray between back windshield and trunk lid.
8. Trunk lids and tailgates may be welded but only in factory location. No welding of tucked area or no welding of sheet metal folded over trunk lid. You can weld 5 inches skip 5 inches using no bigger than 3 inch wide materials. Trunk lids may dished but only 6 inches down from front to back from top of quarter panel. If quarter panel is dished, we’ll measure from back edge of back roof pillars. So keep this in mind as you may be pulling trunk lids back up or out.
BODY MOUNTS:
9. Body mounts must remain stock, no adding of body mounts. You can replace the bolt with ½ inch bolt, bolt must be up inside of frame as factory with nothing up inside frame except 1- 3X3X1/4” thick washer then a nut and a 3X3-1/4” thick washer on top of floor. No added body mounts allowed! YOU may use a solid mount between body and frame. All body mount plates must be individual plates. No connecting or over lapping of body mount plates. The mount spacer can’t be bigger than 3X3 and must be 1 ¼” tall pipe or tubing. NO welding of body mount spacers. Nothing can act like a gusset of any kind!! Radiator support spacer can be welded either to top of frame or to bottom of radiator support body/sheet metal, no added gussets on spacers. You be asked to prove that body spacer or body mount bolt are NOT welded to body or frame. So be prepared! If found with body bolts welded to frame, you will be loaded without cutting!!
10. If you use all-thread in hood or trunk, the body mount rubber may be replaced with a steel body mount same thickness as factory rubber mount- 1 ¼ inch. Radiator support spacer can’t be any taller than 6 inches and 3X3 inch tubing only this body spacer will be allowed to be weld to top of the frame and nowhere else!
SUSPENSION:
11. Suspension must be at stock. Leaf springs must be stock, Stock springs only! 2 inch stagger in back of rear end and a 1 inch stagger on the front of rear end on all leaf springs. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can loop chain, wire or cable from rear end or springs to frame in 2 spots on each side. No welding chains, wire, cable, althread, washers, etc. to frame or body. No bigger than #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used. If you use althread rod (1in or less) for rear springs from rear end to frame, this can NOT attach to body and will count as 1 of your 2 spots to chain, wire, cable rear end to frame rails. You may double your coil springs. Leaf spring cars will be allowed 6 clamps on each spring pack. The clamps may be home-made. Home-made clamps not to be larger than 2 inch wide by 5 inches long flat strap. No more than 4 bolts to mount rear end to leaf springs. No more than 9 leaf springs in any car! This includes tow package springs! You may have your second leaf spring may be as long as the main spring but the second leaf spring cannot go past the factory mount bolts in the eyelets of main leaf spring.
12 .Rear end control arms may be replaced with Tubing 3/8 walled. Tubing control arms must be mounted with a bolt no larger than ½ size. Tubing control arms cannot be welded in, no relocating of mounting brackets, etc. 98-02 fords may use a bolt in upper tray for top control arms or weld a 3x3 square tube to factory tray to bolt upper control arms too and may weld a factory bottom bracket or 3X3 square tube on the driveshaft side of frame in factory location for lower control arms.
13. You may use any braced rear end along with 8 lug rear ends. After market axles and axle savers may be used as well. You can use a spool inside the rear end to make posi-track. You can swap out rear ends from a different car, but must mount to factory rear brackets of the car only. You may change rears from one car to another. Gm to ford, Ford to Gm, Mopar to Gm, etc. Rear end or Rear end bracing may NOT act like a gusset to frame or car! Head Inspector will have final say on this!
14. Front upper A-arms will be allow 2 - 2” X 2” straps. 1 strap on front side of A-arm and 1- strap on back side of A-arm. Must be welded to the side of the frame only. Straps can be ¼” thick. You use 1 loop of 3/8” chain around frame and over A-arm. No welding. Not to be excessive with loop of chain as the loop of chain can only be on 1 side of the A-arm! Not allowed to do both choose one.
All Suspension parts must be factory car suspension. Direct bolt on only. No modifying suspension to fit or modifying frame to make suspension fit. Examples that are accepted: Ford Vic spindles on a Gm sedan. Metric Gm upper A-arms on a Vic. Etc. Etc.
15. All Tie-rod ends, centers connectors, pitmen arms, center links and ball joints must be factory parts to the car you are driving in event. No aftermarket or specialty parts! No combining parts to make a part either! We are allowing ball joints to be changed, must be a factory bolt in only type ball joints. No welding on ball joints, no weld in collars, etc.
ENGINE MOUNTING:
16. Engine mounts may be welded to factory engine cradle. Engine must be mounted in stock location. You may use a front lower engine cradle with full front plate and pulley protector mount to mount your engine. Nothing going back past the factory engine mounts. NO full cradle will be allowed!!!
17. Use motor and tr**ny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). Transmission will be allowed a factory transmission mount, 1- 3/8 chain around tail housing down around transmission cross member only. You must use a factory cross member or a 2” X 3” tubing welded to frame with nothing else added for mounting transmission. You will be allowed to use 3x3-6 inch long angle iron to mount cross member too if factory location doesn’t work. Transmission Cross member must be mounted in center of angle iron. IF you do not use the factory mounts for your transmission cross member you must Remove factory mounting tabs. No using angle iron to fix frame, bridge frame top to bottom or weld over cold bent area. No shaping of cross members, no using cross member as a gusset!! This can be out of another car. Tr**ny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only or if re-location is needed, must be under tail housing of tr**ny where factory tr**ny mount would be located! NO Tr**ny Braces. Steel tail housings are allowed. You may use an ultra-bell if you wish. Standard scatter shields will be allowed for manual transmissions. No aftermarket manual transmissions! We will allow steel bell housings, but when using steel bell housings, you will be required to cut floor out over/around bell housing completely and the floor must have a 2 inch gap between sheet metal and back of bell housing. All cage materials must have a 6 gap from all sides of bell. If cage should ever make contact with bell, you will be disqualified from event. If we feel you are trying to use engine and or transmission to brace frame/car from not bending, you be cutting! No Headers or Header protectors used to brace engine to body or frame, again you will be cutting! Header protectors are only directly around the header upright pipes. 1 cross bar, no bigger than 2x2 tubing, must go straight across to other header. Nothing off headers to engine. Header protector is only to protect headers!
18. All transmissions must be factory housing, no specialty housing or homemade housings.
19. You may have a 2-straps- 3 inches wide from the front side of motor heads to frame but must mount only the engine cross member under engine nothing outside the factory motor mount location.
STEERING:
20. Tie-rods, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. Must be what came on the car. OEM replacement parts for that car only. Must be right from parts store, not a specialty shop or aftermarket. This means one complete stock item, not a combination of parts to make tie-rods, steering, etc! Steering column may be changed to aftermarket shafts. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, Hydro steering, etc are ALLOWED. May change steering box but must bolt to factory steering parts. Ball Joints may be changed to a factory type bolt in style ball joint. No welding on ball joint. No weld in or bolt in sleeves. Play fair and we won’t have issues!
Fenders:
21. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender. Not roof pillars!
22. For safety, ** Hardtop cars may have a 4 inch wide strap welded at the door post to the roof. Must have 2 safety front windshield bars. No bigger than 3 inches wide and 5 inches welded to top side of firewall/dash and 5 inches to roof, no farther back than 6 inches from windshield opening. Roof signs cannot attach to windshield bars or roll over bar. Roof signs must bolt on one side of roll over bar only!
You will be allowed 1 – 2inch wide strap at steering wheel area and 1- strap on passenger’s side straight up. This strap can only go from dash bar straight up to top of dash. 4 inches on top of dash, not connecting to windshield bar, drivetrain, hood plates or bolts, etc.!
Misc.:
23. You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
24. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire in each window opening and may go around the frame. Nothing tied to cage or pulling off cage. If you choose to use cable, 1 spot each window opening with 1 loop of 3/8 or smaller cable. 1 turn buckle no longer than 10 inches. All #9 wire & cables must stay inside passenger’s compartment only. Don’t get stupid or you’ll get my famous words—CUT! No welding washers around holes on car body. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, this can not be bolted to the frame.
25. NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower cradle, full front plate and pulley protector, sway bar must be removed when using a pulley protector. If front cradle extends to be used as re-enforcement to frame, you will be asked to cut it.
26. Gas tank protector are allowed, no wider than 24 inches, must have be completely (top & bottom) 2” away from rear sheet metal. It must run straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. Protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but roll bar and back seat bar! You are allowed to connect Roll loop behind gas tank to uprights of Halo bar behind seat. Only 1 connector bar on each side.
27. Aftermarket gas pedal and brake pedals are allowed as long as not used to re-enforce car!!!! Must be mounted to cage or body. Not to frame or used as a gusset to re-enforce the car in any way. Everything that’s mounted to floor/sheet metal must have a 1 inch of clearance from floor pans where it bends to go up on front side and same for the bend that goes up on side rails, this is measured from the flat plate of pedals on floor. If you extend or over size mounting areas, you might be asked to cut it down or to remove it!
26. No frame shaping except to beating in the sides only of rear arches over tires but must stay back away from front bend & rear bend of frame rail at least 4 inches. Nothing else on frame may be shaped. Body shaping is allowed but no double rolling of body lines. No bolting, welding, wiring, etc of body lines.
27. You must have 2 bars or wires from roof to dash in windshield for safety. Window bars can only be 3 inches wide with 5 inches on roof and 5 inches on dash. You may have 1 cross connector to connect window bars. Must be 6 inches above top of dash sheet metal and can only be 3 inches wide
28. Sliding Drive shafts will be allowed along with a pinion brake. Pinion Brake can only have 1 strap welded to rear end tubes on each side but must be welded next to center carrier only!! No gussets off straps! NO pinion brake protectors!
29. Cold bending of frames will be allowed, you may use 1 of your fresh plates where you cold bent frame! No cross members welded to cold bend area or angle for cross member.
30. You may cut off front frame rails, but the factory body mount bracket/hole in frame must be there completely. No relocating any part of frame, suspension, and body mounts, etc. No shorting of rear frames. No cutting of frame anywhere else except for your rear notch or dimples in frame rails.
31. Body creasing is allowed, no double rolling of creases. Creases are 1 line, not folded over or bolted threw. Trunks can be dished but only 6 inches down from top of quarter panels. Must be able to see inside trunk area completely. If we can see inside trunk area, Holes and I said Holes (more than one) will be cut for inspections. All Body panels will be drilled!
32. Metric Gm’s (1977 & newer) will be allow hump plates, 4 inch wide X 20 inches long and ¼ inch thick. Weld to only one side of the frame. Hump plates must be on the tire side of the frame only. No rolling to second side of frame. No shaping of hump plates. Must have center of arch covered. Plate will be measured with string across both top and bottom sides of plate. Hump plate must follow frame.
33. No Radiator gaurds, only allow Ac condenser to be bolted or welded. This includes no straps or bolts between Radiator and Ac condenser! No back window Bars!
*** NEW***
34. 80 & newer fords will be allowed to cut front tad on boxes to cut and tilt front ends. You will be allowed 10 inches of welding to weld back together. If you choice to cut/tilt, you will not be allowed any Fresh plates and will be limited to only 2 plates on each side of car for Border wars event and Team show events after your heat.
35. Homemade Bumpers will be allowed! I’ll have an updated list of bumpers that will be allowed. The Homemade bumper must be and have shape factory shape/design of a factory bumper. If you have any questions, call/text number listed on top of page!
***RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
36. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with 20 gauge sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 1/8th inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 1 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place. Any frame rust repairs must be painted white. Any rusted sheet metal repairs must be proven to inspectors. Pics will not be considered. Sheet metal rust repairs must be painted a bright color other than paint color/colors of car.
***Car repair plates:
37. All cars that have not been cut and tilted- will be allowed 2 fresh plates on non-bent areas Passenger’s side frame rail and 2 plates on driver’s side frame rail. All plates must remain on the exterior of the frame. Plate size is 6 X 6 – 1/8th inch thick only. Plates start out as a 6 x 6 square plate before shaping. The plates may be welded solid, plug welded and can be shaped. Plates must be completely on frame and no cutting of plates. You must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. No re-patching or layering of patches. All Plates must have a 1” space including welds between any frame bracket, bumper bracket and other repair plates including welds! Nothing attached to cage, body, drivetrain, etc.
38. All cars are allowed 2 more repair plates on each side of car to use on frame rails only after you have ran your heat. No layering of plates must still have 1 inch gap between welds of plates. This will be the only repair plates allowed! Plates are only allowed on the frame rails. Nothing to cage, engine, transmission, car body, etc!
39. If you use a plate on the front of a Ford box, you can NOT fill the corner over the factory tab on the box. You must leave open to prove to R&R that the factory Tab is still in stock location. If we cannot see it, you will have to cut until we can see that the Tabs haven’t been cut or messed with!
Used Car – Re stubbing rules: applies to all Fair events. Border War car Please use rule #5 on plates.
1. When you re-stub a car, you must use the exact same type of frame that came factory with the car. Frame must match same make/model, same ERA of car. If the center of your car is a C –channel frame you must use a C-channel middle stub - This is example! If you try to use a frame that never came in your car, you will be loaded!
2. You must cut frame behind tr**ny cross member, you are allow to butt weld the two frames back together and allowed to wrap butt weld with 1 inch wide 1/8th inch thick strap.
3. You are not allowed to place your cross member, cross member angle iron or any other type of extra support to the butt weld area.
4. No tipping frame at cut. If the two frame rails aren’t straight/level with each other, you will be loaded for tipping!
5. **Border War Cars-Once you re-stub the frame you can put your 2- fresh plate on each side of stub, but must follow plate rules. Border War cars will only be allowed 4 plates total on each side of car. The additional 2 plates on each side must be on the back of the car and only where the frame is bent, otherwise NO plates allowed.
2003 & newer will use the above listed rules along with below additional rules.
Any rule listed below will replace the same rule that might be listed in above rules as this pertains to only 2003 & newer.
1. No cutting and tilting of frame, you are only allowed to cold bend front frame but must be done in the side rails and not to exceed more than 3 locations.
2. Front suspension may be replaced with stock suspension from another car. Suspension must be a direct bolt on without modification to parts or suspension mounts.
3. Must use factory aluminum engine cradle. You are allowed to use a bolt in type cradle to mount to aluminum engine cradle in order to mount engine. This cradle must use the factory 2 mount on the aluminum engine cradle then you will be allowed 2 addition bolt down through the flat area of aluminum engine cradle between the 2 factory mounting bolts. Bolt size not to exceed ¾ bolts, may have 1 washer no bigger than 3x3-1/4 under engine cradle. The washers must be 2 separate washer and not overlap each other. Bolt in cradle that attaches to factory cradle must be 2 inch gap from side frame rails.
4. 2003 & newer A-arm straps may be 2 x 4- 1/4 on upper arm only. Must remain 1 inch away from repair plates, bumper brackets.
Must use factory steering rack, tie-rods and must be mounted in factory location!
List of things that will get you Loaded without a chance to fix.
1. Any frame welding that is not allowed!
2. Any- Body seam welding anywhere!
3. Any Driver that gets in an officials face – we all know what this means! We can calmly discuss things.
If you add anything to your car after first inspection
Demolition Derby
