19/06/2024
# # # Markets Rich with the Spirit of the Sea
Across the coasts of Vietnam, wherever there are fishermen making a living from the sea, there are seafood markets. To explore a part of the coastal culture, visitors should visit these seaside markets, especially early in the morning when boats return brimming with the sea’s bounty of fish and shrimp.
I have a habit of waking up early and asking locals to find the fish market whenever I'm by the sea. The fresh breeze carrying the salty scent of the ocean is nature's gift at the start of the day. Only near the sea can one truly feel that vast, precious sense of freedom.
From afar on the way to the market, the bustling sounds of coastal life become increasingly clear. Typically, seafood markets are held right by the water’s edge from the break of dawn. Women chat and laugh, their hands carrying baskets and trays, their eyes always scanning the horizon where boats are about to dock. In areas where fishermen venture out daily, the seafood is fresh, not yet iced. As the boats approach the shore, locals wade into the water, sometimes waist-deep, to greet them, quickly unloading catches of shrimp, fish, and squid. The fishermen, with their sturdy builds and sun-bronzed skin, wear radiant "harvest" smiles. The distinctive accents of each region are clearly heard in these markets. Local dialects, often only understood by the residents, might seem unfamiliar to visitors, yet the "soul of the sea" is always felt through the vibrant voices and laughter.
I've strained to catch conversations in coastal markets in central Vietnam like Hải Tiến (Thanh Hóa), Quỳnh Lưu, Diễn Châu, Cửa Lò (Nghệ An), Đồng Hới (Quảng Bình), Tam Tiến (Quảng Nam). Though I could only understand fragments, I felt the rhythm of the sea life, observed the hard work of daily survival, and learned about the labor, lifestyle, and trade customs unique to each locality.
Each coastal region, depending on the season, tides, and fishing methods, yields different kinds of seafood. If fishermen go out for a day, they catch near-shore seafood like shrimp, crabs, squid, and various fish. Traders choose their goods, negotiate prices, and purchase their stocks, sometimes selling directly on the beach, sometimes transporting them to larger local markets. Fish sauce producers also visit these markets to select fresh ingredients, essential for making high-quality fish sauce.
In areas with offshore fishing fleets, the catch is more diverse, including both small fish and larger species like mackerel, cobia, and tuna. After hauling in the nets, fishermen sort and ice the fish or store them in deep refrigeration on the boats to ensure freshness. In Bình Định, visitors to Tam Quan fishing port can witness the sight of workers "carrying fish" as boats dock. Not just men but also women haul hefty tuna, sometimes weighing dozens of kilograms. At the long-standing An Thới fishing port in Phú Quốc (Kiên Giang), visitors can enjoy the bustling scene of returning fishing fleets with abundant seafood. From baskets of anchovies, essential for the island’s famous fish sauce, to fresh mackerel, sharks, and cobia, the port is a feast for the eyes.
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