Rusty Compass

Rusty Compass Introducing Australia to Rusty Compass and our existing independent travel ideas to Vietnam and Cambodia No paid placements.
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Independent travel guide to Australia, Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. All original words, images and videos.

Thinking today of those impacted by typhoon Yagi over the weekend in Hanoi and northern Vietnam. More than 20 across the...
09/09/2024

Thinking today of those impacted by typhoon Yagi over the weekend in Hanoi and northern Vietnam. More than 20 across the country are dead and damage to Hanoi and neighbouring provinces is extensive. It looks like the most damaging typhoon to have hit in decades. I don't recall damage to cities as dramatic as I have seen in these past 24 hours.

Bun cha delight on the chaotically wonderful streets of Hanoi - on tour with Vietnam by the Book over at Old Compass Tra...
08/09/2024

Bun cha delight on the chaotically wonderful streets of Hanoi - on tour with Vietnam by the Book over at Old Compass Travel. www.oldcompasstravel.com Join us in 2025 on a unique Vietnam tour designed around 3 books.

Love the visibility of Vietnamese artists around the world - writers, musicians and in this case, sculptor Danh Vo. This...
02/09/2024

Love the visibility of Vietnamese artists around the world - writers, musicians and in this case, sculptor Danh Vo. This was one of the first pieces I checked out today. MONA is superb BTW.. .

Hilarious exchange with this guy, James, earlier in the week in Launceston, Tasmania.  We got talking and he told me he'...
30/08/2024

Hilarious exchange with this guy, James, earlier in the week in Launceston, Tasmania. We got talking and he told me he's a tour guide in Strahan. I asked questions, telling him we would be doing some things in Tassie. He then asked - do you have a YouTube channel about Vietnam and Cambodia.....??? Love a random collision...

A guest ponders the General Giap Dien Bien Phu monument in the remote hills from where one of the most important twentie...
26/08/2024

A guest ponders the General Giap Dien Bien Phu monument in the remote hills from where one of the most important twentieth century battles was planned and directed.

This shot was taken on our Vietnam by the Book tour in March 2024.

www.oldcompasstravel.com

01/08/2024

Travel nostalgia - there are few more predictable conditions afflicting ageing travellers. Everywhere was so much better before. Right? In this little video, I take a look at nostalgia. I feel it in Australia, Vietnam, Cambodia and elsewhere. Over on the blog at Rusty Compass I take a deeper look and wonder whether we nostalgic folk are missing something?

William Calley, the chief enabler of the massacre at My Lai, has passed away aged 80. This is a piece I wrote on my last...
31/07/2024

William Calley, the chief enabler of the massacre at My Lai, has passed away aged 80. This is a piece I wrote on my last visit to the massacre site more than a decade ago. There's a short video there too. Calley never faced real punishment for his crimes and he was the only one of many war criminals to face legal sanction for their actions on that day.

We return to My Lai, the site of the infamous 1968 massacre of unarmed villagers by US troops.

24/07/2024

A serendipitous expedition to a Viet Minh cave used in the 1954 Battle of Dien Bien Phu. The Viet Minh were Ho Chi Minh's Communists and allies in the 1950s. Ho's historic victory in the Battle of Dien Bien Phu brought an end to France's Indochina empire - but was not enough to deter deeper US meddling that killed millions before the end of the war in 1975.

I was researching our Vietnam by the Book tour last year and this little expedition was made possible by the spontaneous generosity of a local. Such acts of kindness are normal in Vietnam when you show a little respect and travel off the path of Instagram, Google listicles and TikTok.

Check our Vietnam by the Book here -
https://oldcompasstravel.com/tours/vietnam-journeys/vietnam-by-the-book/

View the full video and read the blog here -
https://www.rustycompass.com/blog/nostalgia-and-vietnams-travel-superpower-video-339

We understand a new edition is in the works with chapters on   and  .
22/06/2024

We understand a new edition is in the works with chapters on and .

10/06/2024

The transformation of Highway 1 over three decades has been phenomenal. Here it is back in 1993. The road improvements have been welcome. Less positive have been the massive changes in places like Ninh Binh and Ha Long Bay, where tourism has landed very very hard.

#1993

06/06/2024

The curse of unexploded ordnance continues to kill and maim long after the fighting stops. In Vietnam, we had a presentation from the heroic people of Project RENEW in the old DMZ area on our recent Vietnam by the Book Tour. They shared the terrible legacy of both unexploded ordnance and chemicals like Agent Orange. They also described the arduous, dangerous process of cleaning up after war - something they are still engaged with.

Thirty years ago, we encountered kids digging for unexploded bombs on the Hai Van Pass - a sign of the poverty and desperation of those years. The situation is far better now, but nearly 50 years on, UXO continues to trouble the people of the old border area - a sobering thought considering conflict .

For the full video, thinking about three decades of travel head over to
www.rustycompass.com

03/06/2024

So much has changed in Vietnam in three decades - an economic miracle has improved lives immeasurably and changed the landscape too. There's a sense a new time, with new challenges, lies ahead. Check the full video and blog over at Rusty Compass
https://www.rustycompass.com/blog/lessons-from-decades-exploring-vietnam-337

"Out on the road with our travellers this year on our Vietnam by the Book tour, I was struck by the enduring power of Vietnam’s stories - despite huge changes across the country. Our travellers immersed themselves in the books recommended for the tour - and many more. They found Vietnam fascinating and beautiful and they were besotted with the people. The personal stories of Duong Mai Elliott's Sacred Willow and Nguyen Qui Duc's Where the Ashes Are, gave our travellers insights into Vietnamese lives and traditions. The power of books to add meaning to travel was reaffirmed."

Check out Vietnam by the Book

https://oldcompasstravel.com/tours/vietnam-journeys/vietnam-by-the-book/

29/05/2024

Two months in Vietnam sped by. Great times - much of it research and final curation for our Vietnam by the Book tour. Then I headed out with our group and it all came together Very satisfying. Thanks to all who made it such a success! Our little cycling moments were part of the joy!

Now focused on our tours in 2025. If travelling around three books sounds interesting, join us!

https://oldcompasstravel.com/tours/vietnam-journeys/vietnam-by-the-book/

Rock star reception for Viet Thanh Nguyen and Shankari Chandran at UNSW tonight. The theme was "refuge" - both wonderful...
23/05/2024

Rock star reception for Viet Thanh Nguyen and Shankari Chandran at UNSW tonight. The theme was "refuge" - both wonderful speakers. Of course I got a book signed like a true groupie. Already down the hole with Viet Thanh Nguyen's latest. Sydney Writer's Festival tomorrow.


15/05/2024

Architectural delight in Cholon, Saigon's Chinatown.

For walks of architecture and history in Saigon, head over to
www.oldcompasstravel.com

07/05/2024

Today marks the 70th anniversary of the Viet Minh victory over French colonial forces at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. The battle brought an end to French colonial rule in Indochina. It was one of the most important events in anti-colonial twentieth century history - and its strategic lessons continue to be taught in military colleges.

I shot this video 10 years ago. It gives an idea of the spectacular setting that was destined to become known for a battle. By 1954, with Cold War tensions rising, the United States was largely funding France's doomed campaign to hold on to its imperial possessions. The Chinese were increasingly invested in Ho Chi Minh's campaign. The "domino theory" began to define US policy. Dien Bien Phu was a terrible foretaste of the catastrophe that rolled on till 1975.

I shot this Dien Bien Phu guide a decade ago and have continued to visit often - most recently on our Vietnam by the Book tour a few weeks ago. Vietnam by the Book is a 16 day tour of Vietnam focused around 3 books. For more, head over to https://lnkd.in/dzYEYhHz

01/05/2024

49 years ago, this Saigon rooftop became the focus of world attention as one of the great David and Goliath stories of modern history drew to a close. The scene of a dramatic helicopter evacuation, it was often wrongly captioned as the US Embassy. In fact it was a CIA apartment building in the heart of Saigon.

A few weeks ago we managed for make it up here again on Vietnam by the Book with Old Compass Travel - always a profound experience for everyone - as it was for author and historian Larry Berman when this video was shot. For the full video, head over to the homepage at www.rustycompass.com

Next year's 50th anniversary promises to be a time of some contemplation in Saigon and Vietnam. Vietnam's decades-long economic miracle and stability story has been shaken of late. Hoping for better things between now and April 30 2025!

For history and fascinating places, head over to www.oldcompasstravel.com

Right now everyone seems to be complaining about the heat in Saigon. As i wander the streets on these sweltering days, I...
30/04/2024

Right now everyone seems to be complaining about the heat in Saigon. As i wander the streets on these sweltering days, I'm a tad perplexed by the official love of concrete and hard, heat-absorbing surfaces. They must be having an impact on temperatures? As the city's population has soared and global warming alarm bells have been sounding, Saigon hasn't added any significant green space. But it has cut down God knows how many trees and replaced grassed areas with stone and concrete. It's also privileged many thousands of polluting, congesting and heating cars over other forms of transport. The city seems to host many smart-city and green city events - before pouring more concrete and cutting down more trees.

This is Saigon's main public space on any afternoon.

The young people of the city have made cool cafes their refuge - and you should too when you're here in the heat.

Back to Angkor.... where every visit is a privilege....even after dozens of visits...
25/04/2024

Back to Angkor.... where every visit is a privilege....even after dozens of visits...

Over three decades, D**g Khoi St, Saigon's most famous street (formerly Rue Catinat and Tu Do St) - has been totally tra...
23/04/2024

Over three decades, D**g Khoi St, Saigon's most famous street (formerly Rue Catinat and Tu Do St) - has been totally transformed by high-rise and global luxury brands. In the same period Mr Cuong here has barely aged. He's one of a cast of wonderful characters along the street I have been privileged to know. And he's one of a handful still there, selling old cameras, watches and other stuff that was once the staple product line of a D**g Khoi St souvenir shop. Right now after COVID, rapacious landlords and a monstrous banking and real estate scandal, the street is in a serious funk with loads of untenanted spaces.

Mr Cuong and others like him remind of simpler times 🙂

Cho Lon marvel - Saigon
20/04/2024

Cho Lon marvel - Saigon

In Saigon, Hue and elsewhere, explanatory panels outside places of historical interest have been refreshed and now inclu...
18/04/2024

In Saigon, Hue and elsewhere, explanatory panels outside places of historical interest have been refreshed and now include English. It's a great development. Unfortunately, they're near impossible to read. One in Hue is completely illegible. Looking forward to the next iteration.

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Old Compass Cafe, Level 3, 63/11, Pasteur St
Ho Chi Minh City
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Independent travel guide to Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. We love to discover the people, the stories, the streets and alleyways and the natural beauty of the places we visit. No paid placements. All original words, images and videos - handpicked and independent.

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