08/07/2022
Photo: Ría Quitacalzón ("Take Off Yer Underwear Channel"). This is now a busy boat passage between the bay, Bahia Mujeres, and Makax Lagoon, which was once so shallow that islanders could wade across it (but apparently deep enough to earn its name).
Here's a virtual walk around the coasts of Isla Mujeres, reviewing the original names of island locations which reflect the community's activities before tourism.
In the introduction to his article about these old names, Isla Mujeres historian Fidel Villanueva Madrid says that details of many old stories are becoming lost because the former names of locations are being forgotten. Some of these names of "Puntas, Playas, Arenales & Pasos" (Points, Beaches, Sandy Areas & Passages) have existed since the 1850's and were associated with activities like cutting wood, farming a milpa, and harvesting turtles or they were locations where boats docked to collect salt or where islanders sought shelter from hurricanes. The explanations in parenthesis are mine & a link to the original article is below, where there you'll find more photos.
The list begins at Punta Norte (North Point), and moves down the eastern, Caribbean side to Punta Sur (South Point). Then it heads northward up the the western/Bay coast, detours to enter the Makax lagoon, then resumes going north and finishes at Playa Norte (North Beach). Sr. Villanueva Madrid notes that the Makax lagoon was a place that was sacred to the fishermen, but now there are concerns about it due to its high level of pollution. He says that since we depend on tourism, let's promote modernity....but without giving up the island's cultural heritage and local history.
TOPONYMY OF ISLA MUJERES--SOME OLD NAMES
I. PUNTA NORTE TO PUNTA SUR (North Point to South Point) VIA THE EASTERN/CARIBBEAN COAST:
EL PASO DE LA PAILA ("The Passage of the Skillet"): This is the name given by the old fishermen to the small rough area of water north of the Roca del Fraile. It is used as a shortcut when sailing to or from the open sea.
LA ROCA DEL FRAILE ("The Rock of the Catholic Friar/Priest"):This was considered the northernmost point of the island, so it was a navigational reference point. Regarding the origin of its name, oral testimony says that in the years of the Cristeros War (1926-1929), federal troops committed offenses in the rustic church located here. It's common knowledge that religious persecution went on for several years. In the case of Isla Mujeres, the priest had to hide at the northern point to avoid capture, and the name stuck.
LA PISCINA ("The Swimming Pool"): This natural pool is formed by seawater flooding a natural concavity in the rocks. Its access is restricted due to its location in the Hotel Mía Reef area, and because it is considered a Tern Sanctuary, for a variety of sea tern in danger of extinction, who chose this area as a breeding ground some years ago. (This spot is also known as the "King's Pool or Piscina del Rey").
ISLOTE DE LA PUNTA NORTE ("North Point Islet"): This is a rocky islet named for being separated from the island by a "stream" (current of ocean water). Atop the rocks stands a hotel now known as Mia Reef, which was built in 1964 by José de Jesús Lima Gutiérrez. The islet is also called EL YUNQUE ("The Anvil") due to its geometric shape.
(Playa) EL RIÍTO ("The Little River"): This area of shallow water forms a beautiful lagoon with a white sand beach, and is considered among the six most beautiful beaches in the world. (This area is known for having a river-like current, which can be stronger on the west side of the Mia bridge.)
(Playa) MEDIA LUNA CHICA ("Small Half Moon"): Following the eastern coastline, this short sandy area is located a few meters south of the Casa de las Rocas ("House of the Rocks", just east of Mia Reef Hotel). Two more "Media Lunas" are cited.
(Playa) MEDIA LUNA GRANDE ("Big Half Moon"): This is located in front of the Hotel Poc-Ná (now named Selina). The water off this beach has a strong undertow which has claimed the lives of many people, to the degree that it was also called MEDIA LUNA DE LA MUERTE ("Half Moon of Death").
EL ALTILLO: ("Loft" or "Attic" or "Mezzanine") Located in front of the Naval base on Avenida Juárez, this area of coastline rises up to seven meters (23ft) above sea level.
XIX / SHISH ARENA(L): This short stretch of sand is located on the oceanfront by the CFE office. (The internet says that Xix is a Mayan culinary term for grainy or seedy sediments which settle to the bottom of a drink, and that xix of chicharrón are crumbled pork rinds. Xix of corn are the parts that don't grind well.)
El SITIO ("THE SITE"): This is another short stretch of beach, located across from the north end of the runway. Islanders like Porfirio Martínez Pastrana claim that this is where Xtabay took those who fell in love with her. (She's a mythic femme fatale.)
ARENAL DE JUAN CHAN: Small beach at the height of the landing strip. (I don't know if this was named in honor of a famous Mayan leader by that name from the late 1500's & early 1600's.)
(Playa) LOS MUÑEQUITOS ("The Dolls") : Beach located in front of the Colegio de Bachilleres, which was one of the favorites to "turn" turtles. (Presumably this means harvesting nesting turtles, which can involve flipping them to immobilize them.) Others called it LOS MONITOS ("The Little Monkeys").
(Playa) EL CABALLITO: ("The Little Horse") This beach was named after a stone in the shape of a horse's head which was destroyed by Hurricane Gilberto (1988). It was at the height of Salina Chica.
(Playa) LA MEDIA LUNA ("The Half Moon"): This is the third beach with this name, which is now called ACAPULQUITO ("Little Acapulco"). It's located in front of what was the Island's weather station (Estación Meteorológica).
ARENAL DE LOS NÁJERA, also called LA CUEVA DE LOS NÁJERA ("The Cave of the Najera's"): It owes its name to the fact that islanders of that surname used to "turn" sea turtles on that beach. It's located in front of the FOVISSSTE housing project.
ARENAL DE LA GLORIA: Beach in front of colonia La Gloria.
ARENAL DE LA CASITA ("The Little House"): Beach in front of colonia La Guadalupana (aka colonia La Invasión).
ARENAL DEL CAÑOTAL: Beach next to the Arenal de la Casita. Some islanders place this beach after Media Luna-Acapulco, although most remember it as being next to La Casita.
ARENAL DEL HUAYAL: This was an extensive area of sand in front of a forest of native huaya trees.
LOS CUEVONES ("The Caves") : This name was given to the caves across from the wastewater facility, which were formed by waves breaking on the rocks.
PUNTA SUR (South Point): The southern end of the isle consists of majestic cliffs over 20 meters high in some parts. A post-classic Mayan building crowns them. It is the easternmost point of the Mexican Republic.
II. WEST COAST, FROM PUNTA SUR TO MAKAX LAGOON AND ON TO NORTH BEACH.
GARRAFÓN TUNICH ("Jug" & Tun means "stone" in Mayan). Also called BALNEARIO EL GARRAFÓN ("Spa"): The most accepted origin is that it owes its name to a rock in the shape of a jug, which protruded from the small reef located there. There are those who propose that it is called that because of the custom of carrying oil in jugs to fuel the lighthouse. But that was during the first half of the 20th century and the name of Garrafón Tunich is cited before the construction of the lighthouse, at the end of the 19th century.
LA CUEVA DEL CAFÉ ("The Cave of the Coffee"): On a small beach a few meters from the Garrafon Tunich, you'll find this cave capable of sheltering up to twenty people. There are two versions of the origin of its name: The oldest is that it was a point where the island fishermen used to prepare and drink their coffee during their working days. The other version is that on one occasion a large shipment of contraband coffee was hidden there.
PLAYA DEL HUAYAL: As in the case of the sandy area by this name located on the eastern side, a huaya forest gave it its name. This name was applied to an extensive stretch of coastline, from the Cueva del Café to Playa Lancheros. (Lanchas are small boats and Lancheros sail them.)
PUNTA GAVIOTA ("Seagulls Point"): Seagulls nested there until 1964 when a Fishing Research Station was installed. Until recently it was a turtle breeding center known as the Tortugranja.
SAC BAJO: Extensive beach with rocky sections, which goes from Punta Gaviota to the navigation channel of the same name. It constitutes a small peninsula less than 100 meters wide and adjoins the Laguna Makax. Despite the scarcity of agricultural land on its entire surface, many remember José María Ancona, known as Conicho, planting and harvesting vegetables there.
CANAL DE SAC BAJO, or BOCA DE SAC BAJO (Boca is "Mouth"): Navigable route at the end of Sac-Bajo. At the beginning of the 19th century, the Lafitte pirates had artillery at this access.
A CARBONERA ("Coal-place"): This islet owes its name to the fact that during the first half of the 20th century, the Ministry of War and Navy unloaded the coal and other fuels there, which were used in their facilities on Isla Mujeres. Two enormous tanks that served as warehouses stood out on its terrain.
LA TIBURONERA, or ISLA TIBURÓN ("The Shark-Place/Island"): A rocky massif neighboring La Carbonera which was named this because sharks and turtles were butchered and salted there for many years, in order to avoid disturbing islanders with the strong odors and waste.
LA ESCOLLERA ("The Jetty"): This is the former name of what is now called EL FARITO ("The Little Lighthouse"). It is an extension of rocks that barely protrude from the sea, which shelter the town's beaches from the strong winds from the southeast.
Now let's detour southward, from the "El Comején" Restaurant (near the whale shark statue) located at the height of the Runway, to enter the Makax Lagoon.
PUNTA CABAÑAS: It was a rocky area of coast that was filled with dredgers in the 1960's & 70's. The so-called Empacadora Caguama ("Loggerhead Packing Plant") is a site reference.
PASO DE VEGA ("Vega's Passage"): This point was named for the Vega family who disembarked there to seek salt and grow their crops. It was located between Empacadora Romeo (Romeo's Packing Plant) and the location now known as Marina Paraíso.
PASO DE LA SANTA CRUZ ("Holy Cross Passage"): It was located at the entrance to Laguna Makax, where the Patria & Progreso Fishing Cooperative operates today. Mario Burgos Sánchez says that at the beginning of the 20th century some Chinese farmers lived there. Fiestas were held there in honor of the Holy Cross, hence its name. It was a landing point to go for salt. This passage was one of the two passages to the salt flats, which were vital for the production of salt.
CANAL or RÍA DE QUITACALZÓN ("Remove Underwear Channel or Estuary"): It connected the Makax Lagoon with the Bahía de Mujeres (Bay of Women). Because it was shallow, those who crossed on foot had to take off their underwear. Today it is a modern waterway over 4 meters (13ft) deep.
PASO DEL PARAÍSO (Paradise Path): It was a meandering passage, prone to flooding, that went from the salt flats to the Quitacalzón canal. It was used by salt workers and farmers.
LAGUNA MAKAX ("Makax Lagoon"): This is an extensive lagoon bordered by ancient mangroves. It is a breeding area for marine species and a bird refuge. Today it also houses a hundred boats.
PASO PUN US ("Pun Us Passage"): This was a passage from Laguna Makax to the northern end of Salina Grande (Large Salty Lake), from where it extended to the eastern coast. It was used by farmers and salt-workers. Pun, or Pum, was the nickname of a farmer whose last name was Us.
PASO DE LA MAURICIA: It served for the same purposes as those mentioned above. Wenceslao Trejo was one of those who used it the most to go for salt or to work his milpa. It was located at the height of the condos of the Secretaría and Marina (Navy), and went from the shore of the Makax Lagoon to the Salina Grande Lake.
PASO DEL TAMARINDO or PASO DEL BRUJO ("Passage of the Tamarind or of the Sorcerer"): This was a place of disembarkation to access Rancho San Gregorio. It was occupied for more than 130 years by the Martínez Pastrana family. Today it is occupied by the marina of Sr. Javier Ayala.
PASO DE LA GLORIA: It was located where Sr. Leopoldo Meyer's marina is now. It had the same use as those mentioned above.
PASO DEL CAÑOTAL: Located at the southern end of the Laguna Makax, it was used since the 19th century by the occupants of the Hacienda Mundaca. The last of them was Macario Díaz García. In the Aguada de la Hacienda there is still a small cañotal.
Returning to the northern part of the isle (west side):
MUELLE FISCAL (Fiscal Pier). Historically, this wooden pier was the point of entry and exit for people and products, both supplies and exports, since 1850.
PLAYA CARIBE: After the Fiscal Pier, this is the most significant geographical point of Isla Mujeres, as it is the space most frequented, historically, by traditional fishermen, after each task.
PLAYA NORTE ("North Beach"): Also known as Playa Cocos, Playa Búhos, or Playa Chimbos, with Cocos being most prevalent of these.
Sr. Villanueva Madrid concludes his article by saying he will leave these other coastal names in the inkwell: La Nacoa, Chibilú, Rancho Alegre, Playa Indios, Playa Lancheros, Punta Cervera, etc., some of which are also old. He offers his appreciation to Srs Porfirio Martínez Pastrana, Mario Sánchez Burgos, Gerardo Magaña Barragán, and Jacinto "Chalana" Ríos Azueta, noting that their contributions reflect their interest in helping the new generations to know their roots, since each place, each beach, has a story to tell us, a lesson to leave us. He expresses special gratitude to the municipal government headed by Mayor Atenea Gómez Ricalde, for the support provided for his work.
There are more photos with the original article by Fidel Villanueva Madrid, written June 2022: https://www.facebook.com/juan.olivo.5011/posts/pfbid0267ojZuy1dWeyFmMYz4aqnwdmozeoLjAMwNxXHvyaMXfrCjoxXj44iKkermbGiNKjl
Isla Mujeres History is sponsored by Maravilla Caribe Bed & Beach. www.mvcisla.com
