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Alpine Club of Pakistan

ACP was founded in 1974, by mountain lovers, as a Non Governmental Sports Organisation and the national mountaineering & climbing Federation.
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Welcome to the world of spectacular mountains, mountaineering and mountain related adventure. Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) provides the national forum for nature and adventure lovers who are fascinated by the charm and the challenge of mountains, and are endowed with the spirit of mountaineering, and climbing (rock, ice and sports). Pakistan is blessed with magnificent, lofty and compelling mount

ains offering great opportunities for mountaineering, trekking and other adventure activities. Join us to share the wilderness joys of Pakistan’s great mountain wealth; solitude and incredible adventure these mountains offer.

22/08/2024

CLIMBERS REMAINS AT SIRWALI PEAK IDENTIFIED
This clarification is being issued in response to the various news appeared in social, print and electronic media reporting identification of bodies/remains of missing climbers who went missing in 2015 while climbing Sirwali Peak (6,326-M) in Kel, District Neelum, AJK organised by Tahir Imran.

The reports say the bodies of the missing climbers have been identified at Sirwali Peak. In this regard, clarification is issued with a brief account of background.

2. It may be recalled that 2015 a mountaineering expedition wherein three persons: two of them known as climbers i.e. Mr. Imran Junaidi, Mr. Usman Tariq; and Mr. Khurram Rajput as a Trekker; from a private club (Ibex Club)/Pakistan Alpine Institute went missing while climbing on Sirwali/Toshi Re (6326-M)Peak.

When ACP management received information about the missing of these climbers, in the first week of September, 2015 alongwith the request for facilitation of Heli Search by Pak Army. ACP approached the then Minister for IPC via PSB/IPC Division to request Defence Division and arial search was made by Pak Army. Next day, ACP sent a search team by road which came back without finding any trace.

A separate team was also sent by Sponsor of this expedition.
Later on relatives of the missing climbers met with top brass of PSB/IPC who provided financial support and two more search missions comprised of top mountaineers/HAPs who have climbed peaks above 8000-M i.e Mr. Rehmatullah Qureshi, Mr. Hassan Sadpara (late), Sadiq Sadpara, Ali Musa, Shareef Sadpara, Ali Naqi and Ali Raza.

Mr. Saad Tariq Siddique, Faizi Awan and relatives of the missing climbers were also part of these missions. No clue was found.
The relatives of the missing climbers also filed a case before the Commission of the Missing Persons for which one of the relatives of the missing climbers has filed a request for re-opening.

Last week the relatives of the missing climbers once again approached ACP for support to retrieve the remains and also search rest of the parts.

In this connection, they invited representatives of the ACP twice in the meetings held at Mr.Esam Khattak office, recently. Since, retrieval of bodies involve some legal complications/obligations i.e. testing of DNA, evidence of the place etc., hence the process of retrieval of remains may be initiated by relevant authorities i.e. local Police (Kel, Neelum, AJK) where initially FIR was lodged. However, ACP agreed to provide partial support on humanitarian grounds for this attempt for which PSB has already been requested.

It is, worth mentioning that the retrieval and identification of bodies/remains involve some legal/tehncial
complications/obligations i.e. evidence collection, testing of DNA etc., hence the process of retrieval of remains for which relatives have already started process. And a team is likely to be moved from Islamabad led by Col: (R) Abdul Jabbar Bhatti to provide mountaineering related support to the legal team.

Usman Waheed
Office Manager
Alpine Club of Pakistan

13/08/2024

A very sad news. Allah may shower blessings upon departed soul. Ammen. Suma AAmeen.

12/08/2024

Mountaineer Murad Sadpara Passes Away

In a heartbreaking incident, prominent Pakistani mountaineer Murad Sadpara has died while descending from Broad Peak, which stands at 8,047 meters. Sadpara, well-regarded for his bravery in rescue missions and commitment to mountain clean-up efforts, was severely injured during his descent when a loose rock struck him on the head at Camp One.

Despite the urgency of the situation, rescue efforts were hampered by the harsh conditions on the mountain, leading to a delay. The Broad Peak Rescue Team, dispatched from the base camp earlier in the day, confirmed the tragic news upon their arrival at Camp One.

This year, Sadpara had been leading a cleanup expedition on K2, following his recent successful mission to recover the body of Hasan Shagri, a fellow mountaineer who had died on K2 the previous year. His dedication to keeping the world’s second-highest peak clean and safe was evident in his tireless efforts to bring down the remains of fallen climbers and clear the hazardous routes used by many adventurers.

Unfortunately, this year's mission ended in tragedy. After successfully retrieving Shagri’s body, Sadpara embarked on another expedition to summit Broad Peak, this time accompanied by a Portuguese mountaineer. However, their ascent was cut short when the Portuguese climber fell ill, forcing them to turn back. It was during their descent that the fatal accident occurred, with the falling rock causing severe injuries to Sadpara. Despite efforts to save him, the difficult environment and logistical challenges made a quick rescue impossible.

Sadpara’s body has since been moved to the Japanese camp, where it will remain until it can be transferred to the base camp. It is expected to arrive at the base camp by 2 PM today, after which it will be transported to Skardu via an army helicopter.

At just 35 years old, Murad Sadpara had already established himself as a brave and dedicated mountaineer, passionately advocating for the protection and preservation of Pakistan’s mountainous regions. He spent his summers on the peaks, while his winters were devoted to supporting his family by driving tractors. He leaves behind three daughters, a son, and a lasting legacy of courage and selflessness.

Sadpara’s heroism was widely recognized last year when he successfully retrieved the body of an Afghan mountaineer from Camp Three of K2. His death is a sobering reminder of the extreme risks involved in high-altitude climbing, where the line between life and death is often perilously thin.

Murad Sadpara will be remembered not only for his remarkable climbing achievements but also for his unwavering dedication to his fellow climbers and the mountains he loved so deeply. His passing is a significant loss to the mountaineering community and to all who knew him as a humble, committed individual.

11/08/2024

ACP HOLDS SPROT CLIMBING AZADI CUP

The Alpine Club of Pakistan, national climbing federation proudly hosted the "Sport Climbing Independence Day" Azadi Cup in Islamabad, celebrating the nation’s spirit of adventure and athleticism. Held at ACP’s climbing wall in the premises of Pakistan Sports Board, a large number of athletes from participated and showcased their climbing skills.

Athletes demonstrated their passion and commitment to the climbing. The vibrant atmosphere was filled with cheers and applause as climbers show significant improvement. Mir Abu Zar Faiz, stood 1st whereas Mr. Zaheer Ahmed and Huzaifa Imran stood third.

The jury was comprised of Mr. Rehmatullah Qureshi, Mr. Najeeb Khattak and Mr. Waseem Abbas.

Mr. Abu Zafar Sadiq, President, ACP praised the efforts of the athletes for which is witnessed with their improvement. He encouraged and motivated the athletes for their regular training and further progress so that they could also be sent abroad for competitions. By quoting the example of Arshad Nadeem, Mr. Sadiq highlighted that how he was able to bring this glory despite challenges most the athletes are facing. He further stressed the need of dedication and devotion of the atheltes. Mr. Najeeb Khattak and Rehmatullah Qureshi also appreciated for regular training and encouraged the athletes for higher level of achievements.

The event was held in connection Independence Day being celebrated by Pakistan Sports Board and its affiliated Sports Federations. The athletes are likely to be awarded certificates and trophies during a ceremony scheduled to be held at PSB.

11/08/2024

Murad Sadpara, one of our most exceptional climbers and a true legend in the mountaineering community, has unfortunately encountered an accident while descending Broad Peak at an altitude of 5200 meters. He was instrumental in the recovery of Hassan Shigri's body, showcasing his bravery and dedication. We are urgently requesting Askari Aviation to dispatch helicopters from Skardu to the crampon point on Broad Peak to ensure his safe return. Please keep Murad in your thoughts and prayers during this difficult time.

02/08/2024

History has been made! Never-Done-Before K2 Bottleneck Body Rescue Mission Successfully Complete on the 70th Anniversary of K2 First-Ever Ascent

A remarkable milestone has been achieved on the 70th anniversary of K2's first-ever ascent. A dedicated team of high-altitude porters (HAPs) successfully retrieved the body of Muhammad Hassan Shigri from the Bottleneck of K2 at an astonishing 8,200 meters and has safely reached advance basecamp. This unprecedented rescue marks the first-ever mission of its kind on K2 from such extreme altitude. The body was recovered on 29th July and the team reached advance basecamp on 31st July at approximately 6:30 pm.

Naila Kiani, approached by Hassan's family for assistance, utilized her ongoing Mahreq clean-up project at K2 to organize this humanitarian mission swiftly and efficiently. The use of existing infrastructure minimized costs, allowing the project to proceed despite requesting the NOC just one week before the summit push. The team capitalized on a favorable weather window to execute this critical operation.

This mission would not have been possible without the heroic efforts of the high-altitude climbers, logistical support from Imran Ali, and the backing from DC Shigar Wali Ullah Fallahi. By conducting this mission on a not-for-profit basis, the team managed to reduce costs significantly and operate with minimal financial backing, yet sponsorship is still needed to cover the expenses of this humanitarian effort.

Key Team Members:

Dilawar Sadpara (Climber)
Akbar Hussein Sadpara (Climber)
Zakir Hussein Sadpara (Climber)
Mohammed Murad Sadpara (Climber)
Ali Mohammed Sadpara (Climber)
Naila Kiani (Project Lead)
Imran Ali (Logistics Manager)
Wali Ullah Fallahi (DC Shigar)

The tragic death of Muhammad Hassan Shigri, left without aid at high altitude last year, drew international attention to the urgent need for better training, equipment, and ethical standards in mountaineering. This rescue mission not only aims to provide a dignified burial for Hassan but also highlights the exceptional skills and dedication of Pakistani high-altitude workers. It underscores the critical need for improved mountaineering education and safety protocols, fostering a more robust and ethical climbing culture.

The mission concluded successfully, but remains reliant on the Pakistan Army for helicopter evacuation from advance basecamp to ensure the safety of rescuers and to prevent decomposition of the body due to high temperatures.

Statement from Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan:
"On behalf of the President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan and our members, I extend my heartfelt appreciation to Naila Kiani and her incredible team of mountaineers. Their bravery, dedication, and humanitarian spirit in the face of extreme challenges embody the true essence of mountaineering. This historic rescue mission on the 70th anniversary of K2's first ascent not only honors the memory of Muhammad Hassan Shigri but also sets a new standard for ethical and responsible climbing. We are immensely proud of their achievements and commitment to improving mountaineering standards in Pakistan."

This mission marks a pivotal moment in Pakistani mountaineering history, demonstrating the potential for local climbers to lead and execute high-altitude operations with exceptional skill and integrity.

30/07/2024

Dear Summiteers,

On behalf of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, I extend my heartfelt congratulations to all climbers who have successfully summited the formidable 8000-meter peaks, especially our esteemed Pakistani members. Your remarkable achievements are a testament to your unparalleled dedication, relentless perseverance, and indomitable spirit.

Scaling the highest peaks in the world is not only a personal triumph but also a source of immense pride for our nation. Your accomplishments inspire countless others to pursue their dreams with the same courage and determination. The green and white Pakistani flag flying atop these majestic peaks symbolizes our collective ambition and resilience.

We recognize the significant challenges you have faced, from the harsh weather conditions to the demanding physical and mental exertion required for such feats. Your success is a beacon of hope and an exemplary demonstration of what can be achieved through unity, hard work, and unwavering commitment.

We are profoundly grateful for your contributions to the mountaineering community and for bringing honor to Pakistan. Your achievements will undoubtedly inspire future generations of climbers and adventurers.

Once again, congratulations on your outstanding success. We celebrate your triumphs and look forward to witnessing your future endeavors.

With warmest regards,

Abu Zafar Sadiq
President, Alpine Club of Pakistan

23/07/2024

Pakistani Mountaineers Successfully Summit Gasherbrum II
A team of Pakistani mountaineers has triumphed by summiting Gasherbrum II (8,035m), the world's 13th highest peak and Pakistan's 5th highest.

The climbers, Barrister Iftikhar Ahmed Shah from Karachi, Shah Doulat, and Izhar Ali from Shimshal, achieved the summit between 2:00 PM and 2:25 PM on Monday, 22 July. Their success came after a grueling 13-hour climb from Camp 3 at an altitude of 6,990m.

The expedition faced several challenges. Ebrahim Makda had to abandon his summit attempt due to a foot injury, while Wajidullah Nagri was forced to turn back from Camp 2 because of illness.

Despite these difficulties, the team's successful ascent is a remarkable milestone for Pakistani mountaineering.

Karrar Haidri

22/07/2024

On July 21, 2024, thirteen mountaineers, including Pakistanis Dr. Shahida Jamil Afridi and Rana Hassan Javaid, successfully scaled Gasherbrum-II (8035 meters) in the Karakoram Range, also known as K-4. The climbers were from two expedition teams: Seven Summits Treks and Karakoram Summit.

Seven Summits Treks announced the successful ascent, praising their team members and Sherpas for their teamwork, perseverance, and strength. Climbers in this team included Alina Pekova (Russia), Dorota Lidia Rasinska-Samocko (Poland), Josette Valloton (Switzerland), Marco Camandona (Italy), and several Sherpas from Nepal.

The Karakoram Summit team, comprising renowned Nepalese climber Sanu Sherpa and Kosovan climber Uta Ibrahimi, also reached the peak on Sunday at 7 am. Both teams began their final ascent on Saturday evening despite uncertain weather conditions.

Summiteer Seven Summits Treks
(Local outfitter Blue Sky)
1. Alina Pekova 🇷🇺
2. Dorota Lidia Rasinska-Samocko 🇵🇱
3. Josette Valloton 🇨🇭
4. Marco Camandona 🇮🇹
5. Pasang Tenje Sherpa 🇳🇵
6. Dawa Nurbu Sherpa 🇳🇵
7. Chhangba Sherpa 🇳🇵
8. Shahida Jamil Afridi 🇵🇰
9. Rana Hassan Javaid 🇵🇰
10. Phurbu Kusang Sherpa 🇳🇵
11. Pasang Dukpa Sherpa 🇳🇵

Summiteers of Summit Karakoram

Date of Summit 21st July 2024

1. Sanu Sherpa the renowned Nepalese climber
2. Uta.ibrahimi the well known Kosovan lady climber

Karrar Haidri

11/06/2024

The Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC), in collaboration with the World Bank, will host a two-day Pakistan Travel and Tourism Symposium in Islamabad on June 10th and 11th. According to a PTDC official, the symposium will center around the theme "Building National Economy through Tourism."

The event aims to highlight Pakistan's diverse tourism potential and foster connections among government entities, businesses, and industry stakeholders. More than 400 national and international tourism professionals, industry experts, and decision-makers, including representatives from the Alpine Club of Pakistan, are expected to attend. They will share their insights to develop a future roadmap for the sustainable growth of Pakistan's tourism industry.

30/05/2024

Heartiest Congratulations!!
Naila Kiani, Pakistan’s pioneering female high-altitude mountaineer who has climbed 11 peaks above 8,000 meters, has been appointed the 'Girl Education National Goodwill Ambassador' by the Ministry of Federal Education and Professional Training. In this role, she will advocate for girls' education and support government initiatives to enhance educational opportunities for girls in Pakistan. As an aerospace engineer and banker, Kiani's impressive mountaineering achievements underscore her commitment to women's empowerment. She plans to use her platform to promote the importance of education for girls. Additionally, Kiani is the first female athlete in Pakistan to receive the Sitara-i-Imtiaz.

21/05/2024

Congratulations to Sirbaz Khan on successfully summiting Mount Everest 8,848.86 metres (29,031.69 feet ) without the use of supplemental oxygen! He was part of the "Imagine Nepal 2024 Everest Expedition" team, which included 14 international climbers and 18 Sherpas. They reached the summit on the morning of May 21, 2024, between 5:15 a.m. and 10:00 a.m. Here's a list of the climbers from the expedition:

International Climbers:

Mr. Li, Dongfei 🇨🇳
Mr. Liu, Yongzhong 🇨🇳
Mr. Chen, Cheng 🇨🇳
Mr. Shen, Hailang 🇨🇳
Ms. Liu, Qiucheng 🇨🇳
Mr. Pang Zhinan 🇨🇳
Mr. Zhou, Shuanglu 🇨🇳
Mr. Xu, Jin 🇨🇳
Mr. Liu, Yingan 🇨🇳
Ms. Yu, Fei 🇨🇳
Mr. Mateusz Henryk Waligora 🇵🇱
Ms. Alison Mary Bowen 🇦🇺
Mr. James Bradbury Mansell 🇬🇧
Mr. Sirbaz Khan (Without O2) 🇵🇰
Climbing Guides/Sherpas:

Mr. Dawa Tenzing Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Jangbu Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Pema Chhiri Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Fur Gyaljen Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Phinjo Dorjee Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Phur Gyaljen Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Lakpa Tamang 🇳🇵
Mr. Lakpa Tendi Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Kami Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Ningma Dorjee Tamang 🇳🇵
Mr. Mingma Gyaljen Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Ngima Dorjee Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Mingma Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Nima Nuru Sherpa 🇳🇵
Mr. Suman Gurung 🇳🇵
Mr. Denjung Bhote 🇳🇵
Mr. Dipan Gurung 🇳🇵
Photographer/Videographer:

Mr. Sensai Pemba 🇳🇵
Mr. Suman Gurung 🇳🇵

Karrar Haidri

05/05/2024

Breaking News!
Naila Summits Makalu, Becoming the First Woman in Pakistan's History to Summit 11 x 8,000-Metre Peaks

After a challenging climb through the night, Naila has achieved another historic milestone by successfully summiting Makalu, the 5th highest peak in the world at 8,485 meters, today at approximately 9:35 am Nepal local time (8:50 am Pakistan time). This remarkable feat also makes her the first Pakistani woman to have summited this incredibly difficult mountain.

Naila is grateful for all the prayers and wishes, and she gives special thanks to everyone. She also thanks Sherpa Gelgen Dai from Imagine Nepal, who has supported Naila every step of the way, making this achievement possible.

This latest success highlights her exceptional endurance and determination. She now holds the record as the fastest Pakistani, both male and female, to have summited 11 of the 8,000-meter peaks, accomplished in under 3 years.

While celebrating this remarkable achievement, we ask for your prayers for her safe descent to basecamp and then to her family.

Karrar Haidri
Secretary
Alpine Club of Pakistan

01/05/2024

Naila Kiani is a remarkable Pakistani woman known for her achievements as a high-altitude mountaineer. She holds the distinction of being the first Pakistani woman to climb ten of the world's highest peaks, all of which are above 8,000 meters. Notably, she achieved this feat in less than six months, making her one of only ten mountaineers worldwide and the sole Pakistani to have climbed multiple peaks (seven) over 8,000 meters in such a short time frame. Additionally, Kiani holds the record as the fastest Pakistani, male or female, to conquer all ten 8,000-meter peaks, accomplishing this in just two years.

Beyond her mountaineering prowess, Kiani has excelled in various fields. She is an aerospace engineer, having studied at the University of London, and has held a prominent position as an Associate Vice President at HSBC bank. She is also a competitive boxer and a dedicated mother of two toddlers. Despite her busy life, she continues to push boundaries by scaling some of the world's most challenging peaks.

Kiani is a role model and a goodwill ambassador for several organizations supporting women's education and youth empowerment through sports. Her contributions to mountaineering and her commitment to social causes have been recognized by the government of Pakistan, which awarded her the Sitara-i-Imtiaz, the highest civilian honor for a female athlete in the country.
Alpine Club Of Pakistan
Naila Kiani

09/09/2023

A determined team of seven members, led by officials Rehmat Ullah and Najeeb Ullah Khattak, as well as Pakistan's sport climbers Zaheer Ahmad, Abuzar, Fazal Wadood, Amani Jannat, and Iqra Jilani, is preparing to make history at the upcoming Asian Games in Hangzhou, China. They've been training hard for three months in order to win a medal in sports climbing. This team, comprised of five climbers and two Alpine Club of Pakistan officials, aspires to raise Pakistan's sport climbing status to among the top three nations.

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Naila Kiani

Naila Kiani is a remarkable Pakistani woman known for her achievements as a high-altitude mountaineer. She holds the distinction of being the first Pakistani woman to climb ten of the world's highest peaks, all of which are above 8,000 meters. Notably, she achieved this feat in less than six months, making her one of only ten mountaineers worldwide and the sole Pakistani to have climbed multiple peaks (seven) over 8,000 meters in such a short time frame. Additionally, Kiani holds the record as the fastest Pakistani, male or female, to conquer all ten 8,000-meter peaks, accomplishing this in just two years. Beyond her mountaineering prowess, Kiani has excelled in various fields. She is an aerospace engineer, having studied at the University of London, and has held a prominent position as an Associate Vice President at HSBC bank. She is also a competitive boxer and a dedicated mother of two toddlers. Despite her busy life, she continues to push boundaries by scaling some of the world's most challenging peaks. Kiani is a role model and a goodwill ambassador for several organizations supporting women's education and youth empowerment through sports. Her contributions to mountaineering and her commitment to social causes have been recognized by the government of Pakistan, which awarded her the Sitara-i-Imtiaz, the highest civilian honor for a female athlete in the country. Alpine Club Of Pakistan Naila Kiani