Karakoram Discovery Treks& Tours

09/12/2023

Musa Ali, a 48-year-old resident of Gulshan-Kabir village near Siachen Glacier in the Ghanche district of Gilgit-Baltistan, embarked on a unique journey from his village to Islamabad on horseback. His journey began on November 13, and he is scheduled to reach the federal capital on International Mountain Day, which falls on December 11.

Musa Ali, a retired armyman and a former polo player, chose this challenging expedition to cover the 900km distance from Siachen to Islamabad, traveling through the Juglot-Skardu Road and Karakoram Highway. His primary mission is twofold: to raise awareness about the untapped potential of adventure tourism in Gilgit-Baltistan and to draw attention to the pressing issue of climate change.

He believes that Gilgit-Baltistan holds great promise for adventure tourism, attracting both national and international tourists, including climbers who come to explore its beautiful landscapes and challenging peaks. However, Musa Ali is concerned about the unplanned and unsustainable tourism practices that have started to threaten the region's fragile environment.

On the occasion of International Mountain Day, Musa Ali aims to convey a powerful message to the world. He wants to highlight that while Gilgit-Baltistan offers incredible opportunities for adventure tourism, it is also vulnerable to the adverse impacts of climate change. His mission is not only to promote tourism but also to emphasize the importance of protecting the local environment. By undertaking this remarkable journey, Musa Ali hopes to inspire responsible tourism practices and raise awareness about the need to safeguard this precious region from the negative effects of climate change.

Copied from the wall of karrar Haideri

09/12/2023

Born on this day, 1948.12.09; Liliane Barrard, French climber, who ascended Gasherbrum II in 1982, Nanga Parbat in 1984 and K2 in 1986, where she died on descent, aged 37.

Liliane and Maurice Barrard met while climbing in South America, having previously worked mainly in teaching. Billing themselves as the 'World's Highest Couple', they successfully climbed Gasherbrum II (8,035 m/26,360 ft) in 1982 with Liliane's brother, Alain Bontemps, and Nanga Parbat (8,126 m/26,658 ft) in 1984 (first female ascent of this peak for Liliane). Although narrowly failing to make the summit of Makalu (8,462 m/27,765 ft), they nevertheless put the finances together to attempt K2 (8,611 m/28,268 ft) in 1986 with a small team consisting of themselves, Polish climber Wanda Rutkiewicz and French climber Michel Parmentier.

The Barrards' expedition ascended the mountain very slowly. They spent their last night before their summit attempt bivouaced with a tent but no sleeping bags. The Barrards, Rutkiewicz, and Parmentier all summited successfully by 11:00am on June 23, 1986. Wanda Rutkiewicz was the first female ascender of K2, a mere 30 minutes before Liliane Barrard. Both women summited K2 without using supplemental oxygen.

The four climbers descended only as far as their bivouac site from the night before, near the Bottleneck (a treacherous terrain feature at around 8,300 m/27,250 feet). The Barrards and their group had run out of fuel for their stoves (which are necessary to melt snow for water in order to prevent dehydration at high altitude). Parmentier descended first, to try and borrow some stove fuel from a nearby pair of Basque climbers, Mari Abrego and Josema Casimiro. The others descended after him. Rutkiewicz caught up with Parmentier; the Barrards lagged behind. The Basque climbers had also run out of gas, and accompanied Parmentier and Rutkiewicz back to the French Camp Three, at 7800m/25,600 feet.

Rutkiewicz and the Basques continued down the mountain, and Parmentier waited for the Barrards to reach Camp Three. The weather was deteriorating. A French climber climbing with an Italian expedition, Benoît Chamoux, tried to convince Parmentier to come down, without success, and left him a radio before turning around and heading back toward Base Camp. Eventually Parmentier, who had tried to wait for some sign of the Barrards, began to descend, in white-out conditions and gale-force winds. Parmentier was eventually guided down the mountainside via radio directions from Base Camp, about 3000m/9,843 feet below, based on the few landmarks he could find in the blizzard.

Rutkiewicz, suffering from frostbite, and Parmentier both reached Base Camp alive. The Barrards were never seen alive again. The morning after summiting, Maurice had been very tired, and he and Liliane had left their tent after their climbing partners. It was windy and visibility was poor. The most likely scenarios are that the Barrards wandered off-route in the storm; that they fell; or that they collapsed from exhaustion and possible hypoxia.

[info; 8000ers.com & wikipedia.org / image showing K2 as seen from Concordia; Qwrk]

08/12/2023

Rupani Foundation Pakistan honoured with International Mountain Prize 2023 for Transformative Impact

KATHMANDU, NEPAL (PR): The Rupani Foundation Pakistan received the Dr. Andreas Schild Memorial Mountain Prize 2023 in recognition of its outstanding impact through innovative, community-driven programs addressing development challenges in mountain communities in Pakistan for over 16 years.

The award was received by Mr. Jalal-ud-Din, Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Rupani Foundation Pakistan, during the 40th-anniversary ceremony of ICIMOD in Kathmandu, Nepal.

Every year, the International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD) presents this prize to outstanding individuals, groups, and organizations actively involved in on-the-ground solutions, forging a path towards a more sustainable Hindu Kush Himalaya (HKH). The HKH region spans over 3,500 km across eight countries, from Afghanistan in the west to Myanmar in the east, encompassing Pakistan, India, China, Nepal, Bhutan, and Bangladesh.

The 2023 awardees include Rupani Foundation from Pakistan and SATHI from India, chosen from 30 finalists representing six member countries.

Rupani Foundation Pakistan has been implementing innovative, community-driven development solutions for over 16 years, addressing development challenges and reaching vulnerable populations in Pakistan. The Foundation aims to consolidate human, financial, and technical resources to help the poorest and most marginalized in target geographies, with a focus on achieving self-reliance and positive change in the well-being of especially women and girls.

Currently, the Rupani Foundation runs an innovative Early Childhood Development (ECD) Program benefiting thousands of children, mothers, grandmothers, fathers, and other caregivers. Additionally, the foundation has partnered with the Government of Gilgit-Baltistan and other collaborators to implement innovative educational programs in STEAM, entrepreneurship and computer programming across Gilgit-Baltistan. The foundation has also provided employable skills to youth and adolescents, along with training teachers and ECD educators, benefitting over 50,000 individuals, including children, women, and men in 2023 through ECD, education, brain well-being, and climate change related interventions.

The Dr. Andreas Schild Memorial Mountain Prize is given in honor of the former ICIMOD Director General Andreas Schild, a champion of the world's mountains and the HKH region. His impact remains in the hearts of those in the HKH whose lives he touched during his long and illustrious career.
News source:
Pamir times

08/12/2023

Born on this day, 1958.12.08; Nikolay Totmyanin, Russian climber, who ascended Everest twice (2003 and 2006), Kumbhakarna (aka Jannu) in 2004 [FA of the Direct North Face], K2 in 2007 [FA of the Direct West Face], Dhaulagiri I in 2008 and Kangchenjunga in 2011.

In 1990 he was part of the team that reached the upper rim on Lhotse South Face [a height of 8460m]. His resume lists 45 ascents of a 7000er, he's a Seven-times Snow Leopard and a winner of a Piolet d'Or. In the winter of 2013/14 he was one of four climbers who managed to complete the first winter traverse of the Bezengi Wall in the Caucasus in Russia. They don't make'm any tougher than this.

[info; 8000ers.com & risk.ru / image showing the top ridge of the Bezengi Wall; bezengi.ru] Happy Birthday, Николай Тотмянин, and a great many happy returns! С Днем Рождения!

06/12/2023

Gone on this day, 2020.12.07; Douglas Keith (Doug) Scott, CBE, Certified Legend.

"A great Christmas read by Catherine Moorehead, even Santa thinks so!"

[quote and image shamelessly leeched off facebook without prior permission from David Wilkinson]

06/12/2023

Born on this day, 1956.12.06; Johann (Hans) Kammerlander, Italian (South Tyrolean) climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 1983, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I in 1984, Annapurna I (RJ) and Dhaulagiri I in 1985, Makalu and Lhotse in 1986, Nanga Parbat in 1990, Broad Peak in 1994, Sh**ha Pangma Central-Peak and Everest in 1996, Kangchenjunga in 1998 and K2 in 2001.

[info; 8000ers.com / image; grivel.com]

05/12/2023

Born on this day, 1961.12.05; Ralf Dujmovits, German climber, who ascended Nuptse NW-Peak in 1989, Dhaulagiri I in 1990, Everest in 1992, K2 in 1994, Cho Oyu twice (1995 and 1998), Sh**ha Pangma Central-Peak and Nuptse in 1996, Sh**ha Pangma twice (1997 and 2005), Broad Peak twice (1999 and 2007), Gasherbrum II in 2000, Nanga Parbat in 2001, Annapurna I and Gasherbrum I in 2004, Kangchenjunga in 2006, Manaslu RP in 2007, Makalu in 2008 and Lhotse in 2009, where he finished the 14 8000ers (LT 15). He also finished the Carstensz-version of the Seven Summits in 2010.

[info; 8000ers.com / image; klettern.de] Happy Birthday, Ralf, and a great many happy returns!

05/12/2023

Belgian hunter Jan Jacob T Dams secures season's first 40-inch Astore Markhor at DMT CCHA of Astore by paying 50.44 million rupees as a fee under the trophy hunting program.

Out of this amount 80% share will go to the community of DMT CCHA and 20% share to Government of Gilgit-Baltistan.

04/12/2023

Born on this day, 1925.12.04; Lino Lacedelli, Italian pioneer, who, with his companion Achille Compagnoni, achieved the first ascent of K2 in 1954. He died in 2009, aged 83.

Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo. His climbing career began as a young teenager when he followed a mountain guide up a local summit. He soon came under the tutelage of Luigi 'Bibi' Ghedina, one of the best Dolomite rock climbers of the age. In 1946 he was accepted into the prestigious Cortina Squirrels club. Lacedelli was known for fast ascents of difficult routes, including: the Constantini-Apollonio South Face Direct (500 m V+ A2) on the Pilastro di Rozes (repeat with Ghedina); the first ascent of the Southwest Face of Cima Scotoni (Fanis Group) with Guido Lorenzi; first one-day ascent of the Solda Route on the SW Face of the Marmolada di Penia (with Lorenzi); and the fourth ascent of the Gabriel-Livanos Diedre on the Cima su Alto with Beniamino Franceschi. He became an obvious choice for the 1954 Italian K2 expedition led by Ardito Desio.

[info; 8000ers.com & wikipedia.org / image; alp.org.ua]

01/12/2023

Born on this day, 1948.12.01; John Roskelley, American climber, who ascended Dhaulagiri I in 1973, Nanda Devi in 1976, Great Trango Tower in 1977, K2 in 1978, Gauri Sankar and Uli Biaho in 1979, Makalu in 1980 and Everest in 2003. In 2014 he was awarded the 6th Lifetime Achievement Piolets d'Or, the "Prix Walter Bonatti".

[info; 8000ers.com / image shot during the 1978 NE-Ridge climb on K2; planetmountain.com] Happy Birthday, John, and a great many happy returns!

28/11/2023

First ascent on this day, 1872.11.28; Cotopaxi (5897 m) by the German geologist Wilhelm Reiss and the Colombian climber Angel M. Escobar.

Cotopaxi is an active stratovolcano in the Andes Mountains, located in the Latacunga canton of Cotopaxi Province, about 50 km (31 mi) south of Quito, and 33 km (21 mi) northeast of the city of Latacunga, Ecuador, in South America. It is the second highest summit in Ecuador, reaching a height of 5,897 m (19,347 ft). It is one of the world's highest volcanoes.

Since 1738, Cotopaxi has erupted more than 50 times, resulting in the creation of numerous valleys formed by lahars (mudflows) around the volcano. Cotopaxi's most violent eruptions in historical times occurred in the years 1742, 1744, 1768, and 1877. The 1744 and 1768 events destroyed the colonial town of Latacunga. In the 26 June 1877 eruption, pyroclastic flows descended all sides of the mountain melting the entire ice cap, with lahars traveling more than 100 km into the Pacific Ocean and western Amazon basin draining the valley.

Future Cotopaxi eruptions pose a high risk to the local population, their settlements and fields. The main danger of a huge eruption of Cotopaxi would be the flow of ice from its glacier. If there were to be a very large explosion, it would destroy most of the settlements within the valley in the suburban area of Quito (pop. more than 2,000,000). Another city which would be in great danger is Latacunga, which is located in the south valley and was destroyed in the 18th century by volcanic activity.

The Geophysics Institute of Quito's National Polytechnic School placed Cotopaxi under active watch on 25 June 2015 after observing activity. Cotopaxi's most recent eruption started on 15 August 2015.

The first European who tried to climb the mountain was Alexander von Humboldt in 1802, however, he only reached a height of about 4500 m. In 1858 Moritz Wagner investigated the mountain, but he could not reach the summit either. On November 28, 1872, German geologist Wilhelm Reiss and his Colombian partner Angel Escobar finally reached the summit of Cotopaxi. In 1873 it was again summited by Moritz Alphons Stübel, then in 1880 by Edward Whymper.

Cotopaxi was the subject of important works by the painter Frederic Edwin Church in 1855 and 1862.

[info; 8000ers.com & wikipedia.org / image showing Cotopaxi as seen by Alexander von Humboldt in 1802; avhumboldt.de]

27/11/2023

A view of Mount Everest from an airplane 🏔

27/11/2023

Born on this day, 1920.11.27; Andrew John Kauffman, American pioneer, who, accompanied by Peter Schoening, achieved the first ascent of Gasherbrum I in 1958. He died in 2002, aged 82.

[info; 8000ers.com / image showing Andy Kauffman on the summit of Gash I; mountainsoftravelphotos.com]

27/11/2023

Born on this day, 1936.11.27; Michel Vaucher, Swiss pioneer, who participated in the First Ascent of Dhaulagiri I in 1960. He died in 2008, aged 71.

[info; 8000ers.com / image showing Vaucher during the film "Stars at noon" in Chamonix at the Grand Capucin; wikimedia.org]

26/11/2023

Born on this day, 1957.11.26; Sergei Borisov, Russian climber, who ascended Everest in 2002 and Kumbhakarna (aka Jannu) in 2004 via the North Face. He died in an automobile accident in 2005, aged 47.

[info; 8000ers.com / image; mountain.ru]

24/11/2023

Born on this day, 1964.11.24; Mario Vielmo, Italian climber, who ascended Dhaulagiri I WRF in 1998, Manaslu RP in 2000, Cho Oyu in 2001, Everest in 2003, Sh**ha Pangma Central-Peak in 2004, Gasherbrum II in 2005, Makalu in 2006, K2 in 2007, Kangchenjunga in 2013, Annapurna I in 2016, Lhotse in 2017, Broad Peak in 2019, Gasherbrum I in 2021 and Nanga Parbat in 2023.

[info; 8000ers.com / image shamelessly leeched off facebook without prior permission] Happy Birthday, Mario, tantissimi auguri!

24/11/2023

First ascent on this day, 1970.11.24; Mount Kempe (Victoria Land, Antarctica, 3005 m) by a party from New Zealand.

Mount Kempe (78°19′S 162°43′E) is a peak, midway between Mount Huggins and Mount Dromedary in the Royal Society Range of Victoria Land, Antarctica. It was discovered by the British National Antarctic Expedition (1901–04) which named it for Sir Alfred Bray Kempe, at that time Treasurer of the Royal Society.

[info; 8000ers.com & geographic.org / image showing the Royal Society Range from the Ross Sea; wikipedia.org via NOAA]

22/11/2023

Sarfaranga Cold Desert
📸 Imtiaz Hussain

20/11/2023

Born on this day, 1954.11.20; Borut (Čita) Bergant, Slovenian climber, who ascended Yalung Kang in 1985 and died on descent, aged 30.

"By 5:00 pm it was clear that most of the descent would take place in the dark. As the night wore on, Tomo grew stronger while Borut withered. “He became exhausted,” Tomo explained. “His psychological preparation was not good . . . He was concentrating only on getting to the top, and when he got to the top, he relaxed.” Tomo’s analysis has a ring of truth and characterizes many high-altitude ascents where all the energy and drive are focused on the summit, leaving little in the tank for the return trip.

At around 8400 metres they arrived at a 20-metre pitch of steep ice and technical rock. Tomo rigged the rope for rappelling and Borut went down first. After a short time he called up. “Okay. You can come.” Tomo doubted that Borut had reached the bottom of the pitch, but he rappelled down anyway to find him standing on a ledge, ten metres above the bottom of the steep step. Still hanging on his rappel ropes, Tomo began to place another piton from which he could set up a second rappel. While Tomo was pounding in the piton, Borut fell. Not a sound. Simply gone. “I think he died, and then fell,” Tomo later said. “Because when you fall and you are still alive you do something to stop yourself. He didn’t do anything.”" [pp.170-171, "Alpine Warriors"]

[info; 8000ers.com / image; gore-ljudje.net / for more info read "Alpine Warriors" by Bernadette McDonald]

18/11/2023

18/11/2023

Born on this day, 1966.11.18; Thomas Huber, German free-climber and all-rounder, who ascended new difficult routes to the tops of Latok II (7108 m, SW face, with his brother Alexander, German climber Toni Gutsch and American Conrad Anker) on July 19, 1997, Latok IV (6,445m), Shivling (6,543 m, North pillar, with Swiss climber Iwan Wolf) on May 31, 2000, Baintha Brakk (aka Ogre, 7,285 m, South buttress, with Swiss climbers Iwan Wolf and Urs Stöcker) on July 21, 2001, Holtanna and Ulvetanna in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, and the First Free Ascent of "Eternal Flame" (5.13a) on Trango ("Nameless") Tower (6,239m). His brother and climbing partner is Alexander Huber and the brothers were the subject of the 2007 film "To the Limit".

[info; Qwrk & 8000ers.com / image; climbandmore.com]

18/11/2023

"The winner of the 2023 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature is "Unraveled" by Katie Brown. Congratulations Katie!"

https://twitter.com/BoardmanTasker/status/1725616724576215196

17/11/2023

Born on this day, 1975.11.17; Kinga Baranowska, Polish climber, who ascended Cho Oyu in 2003, Broad Peak in 2006, Nanga Parbat in 2007 and Dhaulagiri I, Manaslu RP in 2008, Kangchenjunga in 2009, Annapurna I in 2010, Lhotse in 2012, and Gasherbrum II in 2015.

[info; 8000ers.com / image; Fundacja Kukuczka] Gratulacje bardzo, Kinga, i sto lat!

15/11/2023

Born on this day, 1970.11.15; Johann (Hans) Wenzl, Austrian climber, who ascended Sh**ha Pangma Central-Peak in 2005, Broad Peak in 2007, Nanga Parbat in 2009, Gasherbrums I and II in 2011, Manaslu RP in 2012, Cho Oyu in 2013, Makalu in 2016, Everest in 2017, K2 in 2019 and Annapurna I in 2022.

[info; 8000ers.com / image; kleinezeitung.at] Happy Birthday, Hans, and a great many happy returns!

11/11/2023

Born on this day, 1963.11.11; Elsa Avila, Mexican climber, who ascended Sh**ha Pangma in 1987 and Everest in 1999.

[info; 8000ers.com / image showing Elsa on Khumbutse; old.lo-zywiec.pl] Happy Birthday, Elsa, and a great many happy returns!

11/11/2023

Warmest congratulations to our Polish followers on 105th National Independence Day. We send our best wishes for your continued strength and happiness as well as for the success, well-being and prosperity of your country and its people.

Photo showing Adam Bielecki on the summit of Mt Makalu (8,463 m) back in 2011.
Another photo is Mr.Artur from Poland who died on G2.
www.karakoramdiscovery.com

11/11/2023

Born on this day, 1948.11.11; Andrzej Czok, Polish climber, who ascended Lhotse in 1979, Everest in 1980 [new route through South Pillar], Makalu in 1982 and Dhaulagiri I in winter 1985 [first winter ascent]. He died on Kangchenjunga in winter 1986, aged 37.

[info; 8000ers.com / image showing Andrzej on Everest, 1980.05.19; darien.pl / for more info read "Freedom Climbers" and / or "Winter 8000" by Bernadette McDonald]

11/11/2023

📍 Nanga Parbat Base Camp Trek 2024 📍
🏔️ Booking is open for the year 2024 🏔️

Nanga Parbat Base Camp, situated in the majestic Himalayan and Karakoram region of Pakistan, is a renowned destination for trekkers and mountaineers from around the world. Often referred to as the "Killer Mountain," Nanga Parbat stands as the ninth-highest peak on the planet and is a formidable challenge for climbers. The base camp is not only a starting point for those seeking to conquer this imposing peak but also an incredible trekking destination in its own right.

Key highlights and features of Nanga Parbat Base Camp:

Spectacular Scenery:
The base camp is nestled amidst some of the most breathtaking mountain scenery on Earth. Towering peaks, pristine glaciers, and rugged terrain provide a visual feast for all who visit.
Challenging Treks: The journey to Nanga Parbat Base Camp is an adventure in itself, offering various trekking routes of varying difficulty levels. Trekkers can experience the diverse landscapes, from lush alpine meadows to barren high-altitude deserts.
Mountaineering Hub: For serious mountaineers, Nanga Parbat Base Camp serves as a launching point for expeditions to the summit of Nanga Parbat. Climbers from all corners of the globe gather here to test their skills and courage.
Cultural Richness: Beyond its natural beauty, the region surrounding Nanga Parbat Base Camp is culturally rich. Visitors can interact with local communities, experiencing the warm hospitality of the people and gaining insights into their traditional way of life.
Adventure and Exploration: Whether you're an experienced mountaineer or a casual trekker, the area offers a range of adventure opportunities, from rock climbing to ice trekking, making it a versatile destination for those seeking an adrenaline rush.
Biodiversity: The region is home to unique flora and fauna, including elusive snow leopards, ibex, and other rare wildlife. It's a paradise for nature enthusiasts and wildlife photographers.
Weather and Seasons: Summers are considered the best time to visit, as the harsh winter weather can make the region inaccessible during other seasons. However, even in summer, the weather can be unpredictable and challenging due to high altitudes.
The Himalayan and Karakoram region of Pakistan is widely regarded as the prime season for trekking during the summer months. To cater to the high influx of tourists and the notable demand for the Nanga Parbat base camp trek, we meticulously select the timing for this expedition. The dates listed in the table below signify your arrival and departure dates in Pakistan. We ensure a minimum of 14 confirmed departures annually. You can find the dates and associated costs for the Nanga Parbat base camp trek provided below.

Itinerary – Nanga Parbat Base Camp

The itinerary for Nanga Parbat base camp trek is given below.
Day 01: Arrive at Gandhara International Airport, Islamabad
Day 02: Drive to Chilas via Karakoram Highway
Day 03: Drive to Tatu and hike to Fairy Meadows
Day 04: Trek to Beyal Camp
Day 05: Trek to Nanga Parbat Base Camp
Day 06: Return to Fairy Meadows
Day 07: Drive to Islamabad via Karakoram/Babusar Pass
Day 08: Sightseeing in Islamabad
Day 09: Fly to home country
For further information visit our website
www.karakoramdiscovery.com
Or via WhatsApp
+923445194958
+923554117383

10/11/2023

Born on this day, 1964.11.10; Valeri Babanov, Russian climber, who ascended Lhotse in 1997, Nuptse East-Peak (7795 m, first ascent) in 2003, Kumbhakarna (aka Jannu) in 2007 and Dhaulagiri I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I in 2008 and Makalu in 2023.

[info; 8000ers.com / image showing Valeri and Nikolai Totmyanin at Dhaulagiri in 2008; risk.ru] Happy Birthday, Valeri, and a great many happy returns!

10/11/2023

One of the World's Legendary Alpinists - Wojciech Kurtyka (also Voytek Kurtyka, born 25 July 1947, in Skrzynka near Kłodzko) is a Polish mountaineer and rock climber, one of the pioneers of the alpine style of climbing the biggest walls in the Greater Ranges.

In 1985 he beat "Shining Wall" Gasherbrum IV, which Climbing magazine declared beat the wall to get the greatest achievement of mountaineering in the twentieth century.

In 2016, he received the Piolet d'Or for lifetime achievement in mountaineering.

Kurtyka became well known abroad in early 1973 after achieving the first winter ascent of Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norway, the highest vertical cliff on the continent (4 men Polish team, see the list of climbs below).

He started in Greater Ranges in 1972, completing a little-known – but important according to him – first ascent of the wall of Akher Chogh in Hindu Kush, in lightweight, alpine style. He started climbing in the Himalayas in 1974. After participating in two big Polish national expeditions in 1974 and 1976, he gradually turned to lightweight expeditions.

His teammates were such world-class Himalayan climbers as, among others, Alex MacIntyre (1977, 1978, 1980, 1981), Jerzy Kukuczka (1981, 1983, 1984), Doug Scott (1993, Nanga Parbat attempt), Erhard Loretan (1988, 1990, 1991, 1997), Reinhold Messner (1982, Cho Oyu winter attempt), Yasushi Yamanoi (2000, 2001, K2 and Latok attempts).

Kurtyka's and Robert Schauer's (Austrian) climb of the west face (Shining Wall) of Gasherbrum IV in 1985 was selected by Climbing magazine as one of the 10 most impressive climbs of the 20th century (including rock climbing, bouldering etc.).

Besides being a climber, Kurtyka is author of many articles on climbing published in Polish and English. He is also an inventor (around 1980) of the local Polish grading system of free climbs. This system uses an opened scale, called "Kurtyka scale" or "Krakowska scale".

New routes up to 8a, 8a+ in Polish crags,
Free solo ascent of 7c+ route in 1993 - actually probably the hardest free solo climb in Poland

1970 – Mały Młynarz (Malý Mlynar in Slovak), NE face, new free route (which opens the grade higher than VI (in UIAA scale); commonly called Kurtykówka), with Michał Gabryel, Janusz Kurczab

1972 – Kazalnica, Pająki route (route of the Slovak group "The Spiders"), first winter ascent, with Kazimierz Głazek, Marek Kęsicki

1973 – Kocioł Kazalnicy (Kazalnica Cwm, Kazalnica Sanctuary), Superściek (Super Sewer) route, 1st ascent (in winter), with Piotr Jasiński, Krzysztof Pankiewicz, Zbigniew Wach

1980 – Kazalnica, Kant Filara (The Edge of The Pillar), first free ascent (actually the hardest free route in the Tatras), with Władysław Janowski
Kazalnica, other first winter ascents and new routes, 1971, 1992

1991 – new routes up to 7c+ in limestone part of Tatras
Mountains of Norway

1973 – Trollryggen, N face (Troll Wall), Romsdal Valley, French route (French directissima), first winter ascent, with Marek Kęsicki, Ryszard Kowalewski, Tadeusz Piotrowski (all Polish)

1971 – Aiguille Noire, W face, Vitali-Ratti route, first Polish ascent, with Janusz Kurczab

1973 – Petit Dru, W face, Directe Americaine, first Polish ascent, with Andrzej Tarnawski

1973 – Petit Dru, N face, new route in left part (Voie Petit Jean, to commemorate Jan Franczuk who died during the 1971 Kunyang Chhish expedition), with Jerzy Kukuczka and Marek Łukaszewski

1975 – Grandes Jorasses, N face (Pointe Hélène, Polish route), new route, with Jerzy Kukuczka and Marek Łukaszewski

1972 – Kohe Tez, 7015 m (Hindu Kush, Afghanistan), N ridge, new route, with Alicja Bednarz, Ryszard Kozioł (all Polish)

1972 – Akher Chogh, 7025 m or 7017 m (Hindu Kush, Afghanistan), NW face, new route, with Jacek Rusiecki, Marek Kowalczyk, Piotr Jasiński (all Polish)

1974 – Lhotse 8516 m, member of the first winter (autumn to winter) expedition (Andrzej Zawada, leader, and Andrzej Heinrich on 27 December reached height ca. 8250 m)

1976 – K2, 8611 m, East ridge, attempt (Kurtyka reached ca. 7900 m, the highest point reached by expedition ca. 8400 m (Eugeniusz Chrobak, Wojciech Wróż - this long route was finished to the summit - via a diversion of the top section of the Abruzzi Ridge - in 1978 by American expedition led by James Whittaker). The complete line to the summit via the NE-Ridge is as yet virgin.

1977 – Kohe Bandaka, 6868 m (Hindu Kush, Afghanistan), NE face, new route, with Alex MacIntyre and John Porter

1978 – Changabang, 6864 m (Garhwal Himalaya, India), S face direct, new route, with Alex MacIntyre, John Porter and Krzysztof Żurek (Polish)

1981 – Makalu, 8481 m, West face, two attempts of direct new route (during the second, in autumn, they reached ca. 7900 m), with Jerzy Kukuczka, Alex MacIntyre (later Kukuczka reached the summit in solo climb via the variation of the normal route)

1982 – Cho Oyu, winter attempt, with Reinhold Messner

1985 – Gasherbrum IV, 7925 m (Baltoro, Karakoram), West face (Shining Wall), first ascent, alpine style, (not to the summit), with Robert Schauer (Austrian)

1988 – Trango (Nameless) Tower, 6239 m (Baltoro, Karakoram), E face, new route, with Erhard Loretan

1987-2000 – K2, W face, several (4 or 5) attempts, up to 6650 m (1994)

1993, 1997 – Nanga Parbat, 8126 m, Mazeno Ridge, attempts

1995 – Losar, 700 m high icefall above Namche Bazaar, Nepal, 2nd ascent, with Maciej Rysula (Polish)

2001 – Biacherahi Tower, Central, ca. 5700 m (Choktoi Glacier, Karakoram, S face, new route (Japanese-Polish Picnic), with Taeko and Yasushi Yamanoi (during attempts to Latok I N buttress)

Eight-thousanders

1980 – Dhaulagiri - East face, new route, alpine style (not to the summit), with René Ghilini (Swiss), Alex MacIntyre and Ludwik Wilczyński (Polish)

1982 – Broad Peak - normal route, alpine style, with Jerzy Kukuczka

1983 – Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II - two new routes, alpine style, with Jerzy Kukuczka (Polish Alex MacIntyre Memorial Expedition)

1984 – Broad Peak - Traverse of all three Broad Peak summits, North (new route), Middle (or Central) and Main, alpine style, with Jerzy Kukuczka

1990 – Cho Oyu - SW face, new route, alpine style, with Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet

1990 – Sh**ha Pangma, central summit 8008 m, S face, new route, alpine style, with Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet