Worldwide Discovery Walks

05/03/2017

The timeless walled city of Dubrovnik, Croatia is a marvelous destination with great views and historic buildings. A visit here can be especially appealing to fans of the “Game of Thrones” series and the 8th installment of the Star Wars movies which have both spent much time filming scenes in and around the old town. And as much as I enjoy the views from the 13th century defensive walls that surround the old town, my favorite views of the area come from a spot some 1,300 feet above those walls.

Only about a half-mile north of the old town is a peak known as Srd Hill. And on top of Srd Hill is an overlook offering a panoramic view of the Adriatic Sea, Lokrum Island and the town of Dubrovnik. While strong hikers can enjoy the hiking trail up the hill to the overlook, the easiest access is by way of a bright orange cable car. In less than five minutes that car will deliver you to the top of the hill and an amazing panoramic view.

Nearby the overlook at the top of the cable car ride you’ll also find Fort Imperial, a military fortress built in 1812 by Napoleon’s occupying army. Some 180 years later this same fortress played a crucial role in the Croatian War of Independence when in 1991 a fierce battle here, known as the Siege of Dubrovnik, became the turning point in the military actions surrounding the town.

And, although there’s an additional admittance fee, you can also enjoy the excellent Museum of Croatian War of Independence located in the fort itself. This is a great museum with many photographs and videos showing the real story of that war.

If you visit the wonderful town of Dubrovnik don’t miss the chance to ride to the top of Srd Hill to visit the fortress and its museum and to enjoy the spectacular views.

04/27/2017

Our Sorrento walk is one of my favorites in all of Italy. The views from the cliffs are awesome, the scent of the thousands of lemon trees can be mesmerizing at certain time of year and the quaint streets, wonderful restaurants and historic churches just complete the experience. And almost hidden away in a somewhat out of the way spot here is one of the most beautiful scenes in Sorrento and one of my must-see sights.

Walk away from the overlook in Piazza Tasso and along the street Viale Enrico Caruso leading toward the hills. Just past the tall trees in the middle of the block you’ll reach another overlook – this one with a view down into what is known as the Valley of the Mills or Vallone dei Mulini. Looking down from the overlook and into the bottom of the valley you’ll see the vine and fern covered ruins of an old flour mill.

This valley once ran all the way from here to the busy harbor known as Marina Piccola located on the coast immediately below the town itself. At that time, this spot in the valley was once a very lively and popular area of the town to live in because welcome sea winds came up the valley from the coast and blew away the humidity, creating clear skies.

A strong stream flowed steadily through the steep and narrow valley here, and perhaps by as early as the 10th century it had become a perfect spot for a grinding mill to provide wheat for the needs of the local townspeople. An adjacent saw mill provided high quality wood for the town’s cabinet makers and a public washhouse and laundry was also built nearby.

The construction of Tasso Square in 1866, however, cut the valley off from the sea and its cleansing winds, so the humidity in the valley became unbearable during most of the year. Slowly but surely the milling operations were moved to other mills in the area. As a result, the flour mill and the sawmill eventually lost their usefulness and by the 1940s had become completely abandoned.

That new climate, however, was ideal for new vegetation, including the luxuriant ferns that you can see today. Because of their beauty, these abandoned mills in the valley were favorite subjects for many 19th century painters

If you’re an experienced hiker there are ways to access the valley floor to actually visit the abandoned structures. But don’t try to reach them on your own. It is a steep and potentially dangerous descent and you need the advice and assistance of a local guide to even contemplate such a hike. But, for the rest of us, just a view from above can stir the imagination and allow us to contemplate the past of this beautiful sight.

07/24/2016

Everyone visiting Paris should explore the Eiffel Tower – at least once. Visit all three levels and experience the historical panoramas of the city. But while a single exploration may satisfy the attraction of the tower itself, the views of the iconic structure must be savored from assorted locations throughout the city. But the finest unobstructed views are to be found nearby.

At any time of day, but especially at night, perhaps the best unobstructed views of the Eiffel Tower can be found beside the pool and fountains of the Palais de Chaillot, also known as the Palais du Trocadero. Located across the river Seine and less than 400 yards from the tower itself, the first Palais on the hill here was built for the 1878 World’s Fair. That structure was rebuilt for the World's Fair in 1937 and now presents two curved wings separated by a central esplanade.

Between the Palais and the river are some 30 acres of beautiful gardens and park areas highlighted by the long, rectangular central pool and fountains. Especially at night, the lighted fountains are spectacular as is the remarkable view of the nearby tower.

On the opposite side of the Eiffel Tower from the Chaillot fountains is the long stretch of grass known as the Champ de Mars offering the next best unobstructed view of the tower. In the 16th and 17th centuries this was a park and garden area but by the 18th century it had become a training ground for the cadets attending the École Militaire, or Military School, located at the end of the long grassy area. At that time the field was enclosed by a fence and accommodated military training exercises involving as many as 10,000 men at a time.

From its original size of more than 100 acres, size of the field was reduced several times to accommodate World Fairs and Expositions until it reached its current size of about 60 acres. One of these fairs was the Universal Exposition of 1889 which included the construction of the Eiffel Tower itself. The park now stretches more than one-half mile from the river to the Military Academy with a width of some 300 yards. In addition to the lush grassy center of the park you’ll find garden areas with shrubs and flowerbeds.

While the areas close to the Military School and next to the Trocadero fountains offer the best unobstructed views of the Eiffel Tower, some of my favorite views are from the small parks immediately adjacent to each side of the tower itself.

Here you’ll find wonderful trees and ponds along often quiet meandering footpaths lined with benches and lampposts. Depending on the season and the time of day, these parks can seem almost intimate while offering intriguing yet seldom seen angles of this quintessential Paris landmark.

07/04/2016

The 4th of July holiday that we celebrate in the U.S. reminds us of the freedoms we enjoy today. But it’s also an opportunity to honor the many human sacrifices that have been made to create, ensure and maintain those freedoms and liberties. And while the day is observed only in the U.S. it should also be a reminder of the many American lives that have been sacrificed around the world in order to protect not only our own freedom but also the freedom and liberty of our friends and allies.

And of the many places where those American sacrifices are honored, none is more beautiful to me than the simple monument dedicated to the 2nd and 5th Army Ranger Battalions that scaled the 100-foot cliffs of Pointe du Hoc overlooking and threatening the landing zones along the Omaha and Utah sectors of the Normandy beaches in France near the end of World War II.

If you’re spending time in France this year I’d strongly recommend that you take the opportunity to visit not only the memorial at Pointe du Hoc but also the nearby Normandy beaches where the amphibious assault was centered and the beautiful and moving Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial nearby, covering some 72 acres and containing the remains of almost 10,000 American military casualties.

The Normandy beaches can be reached by train from Paris in only about two hours, so a long day trip is not out of the question. But there is so much history and beauty to see along the coast here that a stay of two or three days or more would not be wasted. Among your opportunities here are:

• The town of Bayeux is a central part of the coastline here (only about 30 minutes from the Normandy beaches) and a good spot to stay for touring the cost area. Bayeux itself offers the magnificent tapestry museum (Musee de la Tapisserie de Bayeux), the British War Cemetery, the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Museum of the Battle of Normandy.
• A walk along Omaha and Utah beaches, a trip to the Pointe du Hoc memorial and a stroll through the beautiful cemetery are definitely my personal favorite Normandy experiences.
• An easy day trip (45 minutes) west of Bayeux is lovely Sainte-Mere-Eglise where you can visit the incredible Airborne Museum as well as the beautiful Sainte-Mere-Eglise Church.
• An easy day trip (1½ hours) southwest of Bayeux is the unique town of Mont-Saint-Michel (photo by Pline), with its beautiful Abbey, its impressive defensive walls and the highest tides in Europe.
• An easy trip (1½ hours) east of Bayeux is the town of Rouen with its huge Cathedral (so beautiful that Claude Monet chose to paint it more than 30 times) and a wonderful old town with cobbled streets winding between old houses, churches and cathedrals.

The Normandy coastline is packed with countless beautiful vistas and historical locations that will create unforgettable memories whether you choose to spend a week or just a day exploring what is one of France’s most impressive regions.

06/14/2016

Paris at Night

Paris is known around the world as the City of Lights, or La Ville Lumiere, but the origin or true meaning of this moniker is a matter of some debate. It’s understandable that many assign this description to the fact that beginning at least by the 18th century the city attained a well-earned reputation as a center of enlightenment in fields of philosophy, academia, social structuring and political discussion. As a result, by the middle of the 19th century Paris was widely recognized as one of the most progressive and inspiring cities in the world.

But while recognizing this historical importance of the city as a guiding light for many human endeavors, I must tell you that after many visits I consider the “City of Light” description as an inadequate but well-intentioned description of the city’s enduring nighttime beauty.

While daytime sights and scenes abound, if you have visited Paris without exploring the city at night, you have made a serious mistake. Of course a few of the city’s most renowned locations do attract large crowds at night, perhaps most notably the Eiffel Tower. Actually, as outlined in David Downie’s inspiring book “PARIS, paris: Journey Into the City of Light”, this famous landmark deserves a great deal of credit for the widespread use of the city’s endearing title. Upon its inauguration in 1889 as the world’s tallest structure, the Tower was lighted by some 10,000 gas lamps and featured two powerful searchlights that panned the surrounding city with bright light. Today, that historic gaslight image is replicated with hundreds of small sodium lamps. But now, every evening on the hour, the tower also sparkles to life with some 10,000 light bulbs covering the entire structure.

While this may be the most visible light show in the Paris night, it is only one small act of a much larger performance. Many other major monuments deserve a nighttime visit, including the Pantheon, Notre Dame, Sacre-Coeur, the Dome at Les Invalides, the Palais Garnier opera house and the Arc du Triomphe. But don’t limit your after-dark excursions to monuments only. Fountains, gardens, bridges and even neighborhood streets and their squares make equally tantalizing evening choices.

And some of the city’s best nightly views combine more than just one of these intoxicating elements. As an example, for one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower, cross over the Seine to the nearby Trocadero where you can add the beauty of its lighted fountains to an outstanding view of the tower. Or add to the glory of a well-lit Arc du Triomphe by climbing to its viewing platform to experience a panoramic vista that includes the glittering and not-too-distant Eiffel Tower and the endless lights of the famous Champs-Elysees stretching out below you.

And at the busy Place de la Concorde you can admire the square’s two glorious fountains and the nearby Madeleine Church while standing beneath the lighted 3,000 year old Luxor Obelisk. Or stand on my favorite bridge, the pedestrian Pont des Arts, and admire the lights of the stately Institute of France building, the Louvre Museum, the tip of the Ile de la Cite and the historic Pont Neuf bridge.

But an evening enjoying the lights of Paris is not about any particular destination; it’s about the journey itself. Just wander along some of the great boulevards or through some of the quaint neighborhoods at your leisure. While there are countless options, one of my favorite nighttime walks is to take the one-mile stroll along historic Rue de Rivoli from the Louvre, past the Tour St. Jacques and then, as Rue de Rivoli becomes Rue St. Antoine, through the Marais district and to the Place de la Bastille.

Regardless of the time of year (but especially during the Christmas season) one of my favorite Paris experiences is an evening stroll. Give it a try and I think you’ll find that the different look and feel of Paris at night will become one of your favorite memories of this remarkable city.

05/29/2016

A Loire Valley Chateau - and Much More

France’s Château de Chenonceaux is one of the most popular castles in the beautiful Loire Valley. In fact, it is often listed as the second most visited castle in the country, behind only the Palace of Versailles.

Built in the 16th century this unique structure spans the River Cher near the quaint village of Chenonceau. But, although the castle is spectacular on its own, a visit here should include much more than just the chateau itself.

The unforgettable journey to the chateau begins with a long stroll down the magnificent entry road sheltered by towering trees. But the experience gets even better if you take advantage of the opportunity to stroll through not just the formal gardens adjacent to the castle but also through other gardens surrounding the chateau.

Don’t miss the Garden of Diane de Poitiers with its raised terraces located just upstream from the castle, on the right bank of the river. Here you’ll find over 100,000 flowering plants as well as a variety of trees and shrubs with strawberry plants and violets bordering the paths throughout the area. This is only one of several gardens at the estate, including Catherine’s Garden, the Green Garden and the Vegetable Garden. And don’t forget the restored 16th century farm and farmhouse that feature the Jardin des Fleurs where all of the flowers displayed in the castle are grown.

Add visits to the Circular Maze and the Bouquet Factory and you’ll quickly learn that the castle is only one part of a great experience. But while the castle, its gardens and grounds are unique and incredible, my ultimate visit there includes spending at least some time, and better yet a night, in the small village of Chenonceau itself.

If you’re already in Paris, you’ll be happy to know that the small town of Chenonceaux is only a pleasant two-hour train ride away. And while this is definitely close enough to warrant a day trip, why waste the chance to spend the night? Located just a short walk from the train stop, the quaint village itself (2007 population:351) offers no “touristy” temptations, which means you won’t be lost in a crowd.

On the opposite side of the railway crossing from the castle, the village does offer a Tourist Office where you can get maps, directions and recommendations. Just continue along the roadway leading away from the castle and across the rails for about 200 yards and then turn right on the next road. The Tourist Office is on your immediate right. But there’s more to do along this road so don’t stop just stop there. Several small and unique shops, including a terrific pottery shop, are located farther along the road.

And to find the best place to stay, continue to the end of the block and on your left you’ll find the ivy-covered walls of the Auberge du Bon Laboureur (http://www.bonlaboureur.com/en/). This magnificent “hotel” occupies a restored 18th century postal relay house as well as its grounds, wonderful garden and several ivy-covered village houses. The guestrooms offer country decor and furnishings, but added modern conveniences include flat-screen televisions with satellite channels and free Wi-Fi.

This is not only the perfect place to sleep; it’s a great place to dine. The on-site restaurant offers traditional French cuisine featuring fresh produce from the hotel’s vegetable garden in either its fine dining room or on its more relaxing terrace. Or, if you’re tired and would prefer to stay in your hotel suite, they offer in-room service as well.

At the hotel, turn right to continue along the street there to enjoy more of the town. You’ll find more restaurants and shops along this street as well. When this street branches in less than 100 yards, take the branch to your right. Soon, on your left, you’ll see a small, quaint square with the town’s 12th century chapel. This very small chapel, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, was restored in the 16th century but if you make your way around to the back of the chapel you’ll get a better view of its historic architecture.
Continue a short distance along the road, past the chapel in the square, and you’ll find yourself back at the train station.

My strong advice: do not miss an opportunity to visit Château de Chenonceau, its grounds and gardens. And if you’re visiting Paris anyhow, take the time to ride the train and spend a relaxing night in the village of Chenonceau that’s only a 15-minute walk away from the castle.

Centre of Loire Valley Hotels, Charming Hotel Luxe with first class rooms and accomodations Gastronomic Restaurant. Hotel du Bon Laboureur is located near the castle of Chenonceau in centre of Loire Valley Chateaux in Chateau Country. Easy to visit the Loire Valley Castles

05/27/2016

05/23/2016

Summer travel is in full swing throughout Europe now and, for the independent traveler, the age old problem has returned – how to avoid crowds while enjoying the journey.

And this problem is bigger in Venice than in most other European cities. Spread out over 117 small islands with narrow streets crossing over more than 400 bridges crossing some 150 canals, Venice has very little room to accommodate the more than 20 million tourists that visit the city each year.

Magnifying this problem is the fact that the vast majority of these visitors will go to see the top four attractions - St. Mark's Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, the Grand Canal and St. Mark’s Square.
Conveniently, all four of these sites are located right at St. Mark’s Square. Unfortunately the results of this convenience are crowds that may leave you with something painfully close to claustrophobia.

The cure? ESCAPE FROM SAN MARCO!

Rather than making the San Marco district the center of your visit go instead to the more tranquil Dorsoduro district located just over the majestic Accademia Bridge. Here you’ll find the real Venice and with fewer tourists, great museums, terrific galleries, picturesque canals, unforgettable churches and affordable restaurants.

Among the many art museums and galleries be sure to visit the acclaimed Gallery of the Accademia, an excellent museum with numerous works by Venetian greats including Bellini, Tintoretto and others. And nearby is a superb collection of modern art at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection located in the former home of the wealthy American art collector with a wonderful terrace overlooking the Grand Canal.

The district also boasts one of the city’s best palazzo museums, known as Ca Rezzonico, whose interior has been dedicated to 18th century Venice. You’ll be able to experience what palace life was really like, from furniture and dinnerware to fantastic artwork, in this elegant palace.

The Dorsoduro is also stocked with magnificent churches, both small and large. In the large category is the Chiesa Santa Maria Salute which, while plain on the inside, offers a classic Venetian exterior with a spectacular view. And just past the church you’ll reach the eastern tip of the island with an even better view that includes the campanile across the canal in St. Mark’s Square.

But one my favorite churches is the small and unassuming San Sebastiano, the 16th century parish church of the renowned Venetian Renaissance painter Veronese. Although very plain on the outside, the interior of this hidden gem is awash in the works of the city’s great artist – from the sacristy and nave ceilings to the altar and walls.

These are just a few of the remarkable sites to see here. But the real beauty of staying in Dorsoduro, or at least spending an extended period of time here, is the ability to take leisurely strolls through the peaceful old streets and canal-side promenades of the district without battling hoards of tourists.

The main walking route for locals and tourists alike is the street Zattere. Originally built in the early 16th century this stroll provides views across to the nearby island La Giudecca and its majestic Redentore Church. You’ll also find a wide array of excellent food and drink options along Zattere as well as on many side streets.

Bottom line: for the ultimate visit to the real Venice - away from the crowds but packed with art, history and unforgettable churches, galleries and views – concentrate on the Dorsoduro district.

05/06/2016

A GAUDI FEAST IN BARCELONA

A trip to Barcelona would not be complete without a visit to some of the works of one of its most celebrated resident, Antonio Gaudi. Prior to his death in 1926 after being hit by a street car, the renowned artist created a legacy of impressive architectural gems spread throughout the city. Seven of his buildings have been placed on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list, and to view just a few of these is indeed a feast for the senses.

What I consider to be only an appetizer for this feast is considered by many to be the ultimate achievement by the architect. If ever completed, the Sagrada Familia is projected to be the tallest church in the world. Begun in 1886, this controversial basilica attracts some three million visitors each year. But, while the vision is Gaudi’s, over the last 90 years since the artist was buried here a variety of different architects have strived to enhance and finalize that vision. The result, although a stunning and unique architectural feat, seems to me to be a bit haphazard, disjointed and overcrowded.

My next course in this Gaudi feast is the Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera, or stone quarry. Built for the Mila family in 1906 along my favorite street in Barcelona, the exquisite Passeig de Gracias, features a rolling façade, beautiful iron balconies and large windows. The tour here usually includes an apartment with furnishings as well as the lobby, roof and attic. Although expensive, it’s worth taking the tour here if only to see the spectacular roof.

I would choose another of Gaudi’s World Heritage sites as my entrée – the magnificent Guell Palace. The lavishness of this home can be found everywhere – from the coffered ceilings to the stained glass and ivory inlays and the mosaic chimneys on the roof. This site, on a non-descript street just off Las Ramblas, is featured on our audio walk through Barcelona and the tour is well worth the rather costly fee. Do not miss this one!

Finally, for dessert, I’d return to the wonderful Passeig de Gracias to visit the impressive Casa Batlló. The first thing that strikes you here is the incredible mosaic and tile work on the exterior walls. Inside, the central atrium and the uniqueness of the living spaces will leave you wanting to see more. And with the magnificent roof and stunning courtyard you will get your wish. This is also an expensive location to tour, but if you love beautiful architecture you will not regret spending your time and money here.

Gaudi fans will certainly note that I have not included one of the architect’s most renowned spots and one of the most visited in Barcelona, the Park Güell. Gaudi’s iconic mosaic bench and dragon are incredible, but the Monumental Zone portion of the park itself is comparatively small. I’d still highly recommend a visit here, but more for the overall beauty of the park itself and the amazing views of the city it offers.

Photo By Amadalvarez - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=18720854

04/04/2016

From the Mammertine Prison that dates back to the 4th century BC, you’ve now walked up the 1st century “Stairs of Mourning” to reach the summit of the Capitoline Hill. For over two millennia this hill, like the forum below it, has been at the center of development and governance of the city of Rome. And today, it is the home of my favorite museum in the city - The Capitoline Museum.

This is perhaps the smallest of the “Seven Hills of Rome” and it was known as the Campidoglio, or “the capital” because of its importance to the city and its government. Today, the hill’s magnificent square is known simply as the “Piazza del Campidoglio”. Designed by Michelangelo early in the 16th century, the square now stands between the two buildings of what is perhaps Rome’s most prominent museum.

Equally beautiful is the architect’s grand staircase known as the “Cordonata”, referring to a sloped road composed of many sections. Although usually referred to as a “stairway” this sloped pathway eliminated actual steps so that horses and the carriages they might pull could make the journey from the bottom of the hill. Symbolically, it also connected the center of ancient Rome to the developing area of the new city below.

Three large building are located on Piazza del Campidoglio. The oldest is the Palazzo Senatorio or “Palace of the Senators”. This central building with its large fountain stands opposite the grand Cordonata stairway and overlooks the Forum itself. A fortress was first built at this site in the 11th century on top of an ancient building known as the “Tabularium” that housed the public records of ancient Rome. The current structure then served as the seat of the Roman Senate until 1870 when the City Hall and official seat of the Municipality of Rome began to occupy the building. (Before you leave the square, walk along the path leading past the right side of the palace and you’ll find a broad terrace overlooking the forum with a panoramic view that extends all the way to the coliseum. This is one of the most dramatic views of the area that you can find and a perfect place for a picture.)

Facing each other from across the square are the two magnificent buildings that make up the Capitoline Museum: the Palazzo dei Conservatori, or “Palace of the Conservators”, that dates to the Middle Ages and the Palazzo Nuovo, or "New Palace", which was finished in 1654. Many of Rome’s most famous sculptures and artworks can be found in these two buildings.

Facing the Senate Palace, the building to your left is the Palazzo Nuovo, designed by Michelangelo but not completed finished until long after his death. Inside you can see mostly classical sculpture including the famous 'Dying Gaul', a Roman marble copy of a lost ancient Greek statue from the 3rd century BC. And one gallery holds the Capitoline Venus, another Roman copy of a 3rd-century BC Greek statue that was the symbol of feminine beauty for centuries. This building also offers the beautiful equestrian statue of Roma1024px-She-wolf_of_Romen Emperor Marcus Aurelius that was originally located at the center of the square until being moved for safety and replaced by a replica.

Directly across from the Palazzo Nuovo is the final building on the square: the Palazzo dei Conservatori. This palace housed the city government of Rome during the Middle Ages but it is now the second Capitoline Museum on the square. Inside, you’ll find a collection of sculpture and paintings including the famous statue of Lupa Capitoline, or “Capitoline Wolf” - the statue of a she-wolf suckling the twins Romulus and Remus that has become one of the best known symbols of Rome. (Picture by Rosemania (http://www.flickr.com/photos/rosemania/5384048970). There’s also Lo Spinario, or “Boy with Thorn”, a famous and often reproduced bronze statue of a boy removing a thorn from his foot. But my favorite exhibits in this building are the pieces that remain of the giant statue of Emperor Constantine the Second that was originally located in the Roman forum.

These surviving parts, like the ruins of many ancient statues, are mostly the head, hands, and feet of the statue. That’s because this statue, like so many ancient statues, was what is known as an “acrolith”, meaning that the head, hands and feet were made of marble while the rest of the statue was made from less expensive materials, usually wood. The wood was normally hidden by cloth so that only the marble parts of the statue were exposed and visible.

If you want to visit any museums in Rome, the Capitoline Museum is the one I’d highly recommend.

The Capitoline She-Wolf is a bronze sculpture of a she-wolf suckling twin infants, inspired by the legend of the founding of Rome and serves as an icon of city since antiquity time. The age and origin of the Capitoline Wolf is a subject of controversy. The statue was long thought to be an Etruscan w…