27/06/2023
Wild Cambodia: Hanuman FAM Trip into the Cardamoms
Earlier this month, some of the Hanuman Travel Team embarked on an adventurous FAM trip into the Cardamom Mountains, one of the up and coming ecotourism hotspots in Cambodia. The team covered about 750km in four days using a mix of minivan, motorbikes and boats.
Day 1, Phnom Penh to Chi Phat via Shinta Mani Wild
Departing early at 07.00am from the capital, the team took advantage of the new E4 Expressway to make good time to Shinta Mani Wild. Everyone had the opportunity to zipline into this luxury ecoresort and were shown a mix of opulent tents, including a Waterfall Tent and a Family Tent. After lunch, the trip continued via Thmor Roung Rapids, a popular local bathing spot near Shinta Mani Wild, to Chi Phat, one of the longest running community-based ecotourism (CBET) projects in Cambodia. Chi Phat has taken off as a popular domestic tourism destination since the pandemic and there are now a variety of accommodation options to supplement the original homestays. The Hanuman Team stayed at Cardamom Cottages which offers fan-cooled bungalows in a pretty garden bursting with fruit trees. Dinner was arranged at the community-run restaurant in town which rotates its chefs and staff throughout the month to support its members.
Day 2, Chi Phat to Stung Areng via Cardamom Tented Camp
Rising early for breakfast, everyone jumped on the back of motorbikes to visit the Wildlife Release Station (WRS), a flagship wildlife reintroduction program set up by Wildlife Alliance. At the centre, we saw a variety of animals that are being prepared for release, including sun bears, pangolins, leopard cats, pig-tailed macaques and long-tailed macaques. We also met some friendly hornbills hanging out around the camp and could hear gibbon calls in the nearby forest. It is possible to stay in basic accommodation at the WRS to support conservation in action and contribute to the essential work of the Wildlife Alliance team. This was Thearin's favourite experience as it included motorcycling into the jungle to spot local flora and fauna, meeting rescued wildlife during their feeding times, and learning about the duty of the rangers in finding traps and rescuing those animals from illegal trafficking.
Back to the van and a local ferry crossing later, everyone was on the way to Cardamom Tented Camp (CTC), a genuine ecotourism experience deep in a remaining tract of Botum Sakor National Park where elephants still roam. Approaching the resort by boat along the beautiful Prek Tachan River, we were welcomed by conservationist and resort manager Allan Michaud for a local lunch. The heavens opened during our visit, but this did not dampen the spirits of the team who checked out the tents and asked lots of questions about the activities on offer.
Leaving CTC mid-afternoon, the trip continued to Stung Areng, a more recent CBET deep in the heart of the Cardamom Mountains that was also set up with the support of Wildlife Alliance. Our destination was Areng Camping, a new glamping resort on the banks of the stunning Areng River. On arrival, we checked into the stylish safari tents and had a local lunch in the riverside restaurant and some drinks around the campfire. For several of the team, Areng Camping was a real highlight of the trip, including Chamrong, Mony and Samphors.
Day 3, Stung Areng to Koh Kong via Kravan La Vallee
Rising early, there was a gentle mist hanging over the forest which made the dawn gibbon calls very evocative. Hornbills flapped overhead and otters could be seen frolicking in the river. Truly this was a back to nature experience with the vast Cardamoms National Park on the other bank of the river. The team tried the zipline over the Areng River which is one of the faster lines in Cambodia before some of the team switched to kayaks to explore the river swimming holes in more depth. A breathtakingly beautiful natural stretch of water, it was dotted with vast boulders and small waterfalls, perfect for a natural shower.
Lunch was at the CBET Centre in Stung Areng and the team inspected some of the nearby village homestays, which are more like guesthouses if the truth be told, but are quite comfortable compared with more traditional ‘homestays’. Due to the ongoing rain, it was decided to skip the jungle trek and overnight camping at Mrech Krong Kep and we re-routed to Koh Kong after much deliberation over a multitude of options. Making for a beach out of town, we stayed in the basic A-frame huts of Young, Wild and Free, a little backpacker pad on the sand. Some of our team were definitely not young, wild or free, but most people ticked at least one of the boxes. Our Operations Manager Daran must have qualified as ‘young, wild and free’ as this was his favourite place to stay on the trip. At night, we ventured into Koh Kong City (Khmerak Phoumin) for a seafood barbecue before returning to the resort for some nightcaps.
Day 4, Koh Kong to Phnom Penh via Canvas & Orchids Retreat
The began with a brief visit to the Cambodian-Thai international border crossing at Cham Yeam-Had Lek before continuing to Koh Kong City for breakfast. Next stop was a boat trip to Canvas & Orchids Retreat (formerly 4 Rivers Floating Lodge) for an inspection. Anna and her team kindly downed tools during their month-long renovation to show us around the resort, including a floating tent and a family tent on dry land. The team were given a detailed update on their expanded activity program, including longer treks into the surrounding rainforests and the installation of new camera traps to monitor wildlife in the area. The camera trap footage included civets, pig-tailed macaques and smooth-coated otters. This camera trap footage is shared with active conservation NGOs in the region, including Flora & Fauna International (FFI) and Kla Trey (Cambodia Fishing Cat Project). As Daran noted afterwards: “It's so great to see such cooperation with NGOs and their work really inspired me as they are contributing to the community, the region and the world. So proud of them!”
Chugging back up river to the Tatai Bridge, the final leg of the trip was a long drive back to Phnom Penh of around 265km. The journey between Koh Kong and Cambodian capital is a game of two halves. National Highway (NH) 48 between NH4 and Koh Kong is in very bad condition at this time, as it is undergoing a complete rebuild by a South Korean contractor. This means there are lots of potholes and unsurfaced stretches while the contractor focus on realigning the road in steep sections. It is likely this massive renovation project will continue into Q3 2024 or beyond. However, using the new E4 Expressway from Sre Ambel to Phnom Penh cuts this part of the journey to about two hours only. So realistically, it is a 6-hour journey from Phnom Penh to Canvas & Orchids or Koh Kong at this time. Travelling from Sihanoukville Airport (KOS) may save about an hour on this journey time. Another option is to end the Cambodia trip at Canvas & Orchids and continue overland into Thailand to pick up a domestic flight from Trat to Bangkok. The journey time from Koh Kong to Trat is only about two hours.