Learning to lead can be rough. When you start off toproping there are all these landmarks and guardrails. Once you're on the sharp end though you have to make a lot of your own decisions.
Route finding in complex terrain can be challenging so before I leave the ground I like to do a few things.
-look for specific details in the description. A tree, specific crack or roof. Something that's hard to mistake.
-keep in mind what can change and what can't. Lots of routes will identify a tree. After a bunch of people do a route they will often die. So you might be looking for a stump. Meanwhile a crack doesn't disappear unless the face collapsed.
-think like a first ascencionist. Look at the features and how they connect together. Identify places for gear, rests, or other islands of security. The way those connect together is often how a climb comes to exist.
-have the eagle eye. It's good #leavenotrace to not leave bright colored gear behind. If you're looking hard you can usually spot something unnatural looking. Even when it's camouflaged.
-have a backup plan. It happens, we all screw up. If you have an idea of solutions if you need to bail it'll save you from losing a bunch of gear. Is there a route next to it toy can swing over from? Is their top access?
#learntoclimb #climbingtips #seekqualifiedinstruction #climbingadventures #rockclimbing
In preparation for all our days we're planning to help out @gowestcamps and @climbcityrock for outdoor climbing this summer we picked up a bunch of new gear. The new recycled ropes from @mammut are pretty nice but I thought I'd throw out a quick tip to keep your ropes from getting all twisted up and tangled. Do this instead of just flaking back and forth from one end to the other. If anyone has a good storage method for a couple dozen @blackdiamond helmets though lemme know...
#protip #learntoclimb #climbingtips
I learned to ice climb in a time before ice parks, before FB groups and online conditions reports. While I like to be generous when people ask, I also think there is a certain amount of skill being lost. Like reading a map, understanding how temperature, precipitation, and aspect help ice and alpine routes form is a skill that requires practice and trial and error. Besides, you never know what kind of adventure you could have if you check something out for yourself! Ice in the San Juans is fat. Probably another month of good conditions, maybe more before e start to get into skimo and snow climbing season. Get it before its hot.
#climbingadventures #iceclimbing #sanjuanmountainscolorado #coloradoclimbing
We're on vacation for a few days...
After learning the #nakedthread from @daleremsberg on an @amga1979 ice instructor course years ago this has become my go-to technique on ice routes without fixed anchors. It's a great way to avoid leaving trash in the backcountry. If you're familiar with this technique you'll notice there were several things I kind of glazed over or didn't explain (how'd you transition from the first rap, is that a gri-gri, etc). There's a lot of context in climbing so the best way to learn is in person. But hopefully, this will encourage folks to feel better about leaving the thread tool and tat behind.
Story time: as I said I learned this just under a decade ago and try to incorporate it into my instruction which usually includes showing how strong these are by chipping away with a bunch of people hanging (on the ground). Something I commonly tell people is throw in a backup screw or anchor, but I've started moving from encouraging to insisting after I had a thread fail in the field last season😱. Having finished a route on the opposite side of the valley from where this video was shot (sun exposure) that wanders up about 1000' of WI3 steps. We'd started rapping the route. I'd made a few threads and at the top of one step in a flat, creek bed area I made a nice deep thread in some crunchy weird ice and didn't throw in a screw. The spidey sense was tingling and on a hunch I turned uphill away from the edge and squatted down to give it a pull test. Crack-pop-snap and the rope flew out as I almost tumbled backward in surprise. Something that I'd casually used dozens, maybe a hundred times. After spending a few minutes trying to find better ice I gave up and belayed them down with a backup anchor and had them belay my downclimb.
Lessons learned: When in doubt, test it out (with a backup), and just because it hasn't happened doesn't mean it can't. Comfort can breed complacency so don't ignore your instincts or a feeling!
In the end we got back to the ground right at dark no wors
Despite having been to Moab a couple dozen times the views never cease to amaze.
If you're looking to get your child started climbing we have climbing camps coming up. Learn climbing skills, spend time outside, meet other climbing adventures.
5 Day Beginner/Intermediate/Advanced Camp June 5th-9th, $500
June Weekly Beginner Camp, June 9th, 16th, 23rd, and 30th, $400
June Weekly Intermediate/Advanced Camp, 8 Fridays starting June 9th, $800
Speed is safety... but so is not falling down a mountain. A lot of people avoid pulling the rope out because they think it slows them down but so does hesitancy from fear. So does testing a bunch of holds because you're soloing. Learning to use a rope effectively and when it's actually benefiting you is an important mountain skill a lot of people ignore in 3rd, 4th, and low 5th class terrain.
It's a joy to go through the mountains unencumbered by all sorts of equipment but things can happen unexpectedly and gravity doesn't care. I'm not an absolutist but having been lucky here and there statistically speaking the more you protect yourself the less likely you'll be on the receiving end of a rescue or worse.
#ifyoudontknowdontgo #climbingadventures #skillsforthehills #seekqualifiedinstruction #coloradoclimbing #crestones #14ersofcolorado
In case you were wondering...ice climbing season has started. Keep an eye out for holiday deals while ice becomes more widespread.
Ice Climbing in Cheyenne Canyon